VILLELONGUE, AUDE- OUR FAVOURITE B&B
23rd November 2016
OUR FAVOURITE B&B IN FRANCE – I CAUSE CONSTERNATION
Villelongue Coté Jardin, Location Chambre d’hôte dans l’Aude
This is our very favourite B&B in the whole of France (as we so far know it!)
It is the exceptional hospitality from the hostesses that has sent us back repeatedly to this charmingly restored ancient farmhouse. It adjoins the famous Abbaye Villelongue – though not anymore belonging to it.
WE COUNT ON A WARM WELCOME
Driving through that storm, we could not wait to get there. We eagerly anticipated the usual warm welcome. We little knew the shock we would cause.
A LONG TIME FROM MARCH TO NOVEMBER
In early March 2016 I definitely wrote an email to Claude asking her if it would be possible for us to stay for one night late in November. Would they still be open? I am pretty certain she wrote back to say arrangements could be made.
By November I was convinced in my own mind that I had followed this up at some point with the definite booking for November 23rd. But March is a long way away from November. Even if I did… And Claude is very efficient; I imagine any booking I made would almost certainly have been entered into a register.
THE WORST STORM IN AUDE HISTORY?
We could hardly see out of the Golf’s streaming windscreen. Graham had to inch through the last miles of country lanes taking us to St Martin-le-Vieil, and then on to the Abbeye de Villelongue. We arrived outside the farmhouse about 7pm, and were instantly soaked through as we jumped out of our car.
It was our fourth stay with them in their historic house, but this time for only one night. (I must confess here that due to the ‘flu we had both forgotten to remind them in advance of this November arrival.
CLAUDE’S HAMMER-HORROR MOMENT
Wet branches swung out to lash us in the face, whilst thunder rumbled from the billowing grey/black clouds just discernible against the night sky. A sudden ‘CRACK’ and forked lightning threw the house into sudden relief. We staggered forward against the tearing wind…
And so it was that two wet and bedraggled visitors hammered on the front door, hoping that the sisters in their flat above would hear us. As great luck would have it Claude appeared with an armful of wood from the store at the back of the house.
She gasped when she saw us through the small pane of glass in the door (and who could blame her?) She was soon joined by Renée, who frowned: but the door was opened and
“What are you doing here?”
A SLIGHT DISPUTATION
You can imagine our relief when they beckoned us inside; from the expressions on their faces we had both feared they would turn us away.
In the downstairs hall I reminded them of the booking made in March. Claude denied all knowledge of it. I think that because we had corresponded as friends she had forgotten she’d answered ‘Yes, come – welcome’, or words to that effect. After all, it had been eight months ago!
They were clearly put out, having ‘closed down’ for the winter. They appeared to ignore our profuse apologies. I felt about five years old; I expected to be told to stand in the corner…
THE SISTERS QUICKLY ADAPT – I SHRINK…
Nevertheless they quickly adapted. They even insisted on coming out to help us with our bags, ignoring our insistence that it was not necessary, as we were only bringing in small knapsacks. I felt awful; a guilty small girl again – and I expect Graham felt the same…
NOT EXPECTED…
“We have not prepared food for you,” said Renee, her voice clipped. She ushered us into their comfortable sitting room (TV in here – a large one, which was promptly turned off). Their pretty cat came over to greet us – she seemed to remember us from former stays.
“Please don’t worry about food,” I said, remembering the sumptuous four-course feasts they usually provided. “We have little appetite –we’re recovering from ‘flu – but well past passing it on,” I explained hastily. “If it is at all possible, just a small bowl of soup each would be welcome – but please don’t go to any trouble.”
I felt pretty certain that such accomplished cooks would have some stock and leftovers or something which they could quickly rustle up into a soup. As it was we warmed up in front of a blazing log fire, and in about an hour two welcome bowls of gruel appeared. I wistfully hoped some bread would accompany it, but I guess they had none to spare. BUT- we were given the bedroom on the ground floor, which was a new delight for us (it has an especially lovely bathroom).
A HOUSE WITH A LONG HISTORY
This exceptionally good B &B is in the beautiful home of Claude Antoine and her sister Renée who go out of their way to ensure every comfort for their guests.
The house has a long history. Many centuries ago it was the living quarters of the monks in the adjoining famous abbey. Then – I do not know how far back, it became the farmhouse for the Villelongue estate and the home of the sisters’ family.
In World War 2 it was taken over by the Maquis – the French Resistance.
HARD WORK – GOOD TASTE – PERFECTION ACHIEVED
All I know is that when the sisters moved back in, the house was in a sorry state, with little or no furniture. Now, thanks to very hard work and shrewd buying at auctions etc. it is sympathetically restored, and full of lovely antique furniture. In every spacious room the beds are large and very comfortable, and there are armchairs and coffee tables. (No TV’s though, which does not worry us, as we don’t speak French. We are delighted to enjoy the elegant country lifestyle here instead.)
WE SHARE THE SISTERS’ BREAKFAST
In the morning we were invited to share their breakfast. It was more modest than in ‘the Season’; but still we enjoyed the same delicious crunchy bread. There was a small selection of local cheeses and their usual range of homemade jams. There was even some excellent dark orange marmalade; “brought from England by a guest”.
They had quite recovered from their shock and annoyance at us, but Claude shook Graham gently. She laughed, and said “Next time you come for more than one night. Yes?” So we know that before too long we will have to plan a holiday that takes us to the Midi-Pyrenees again. (Not such a hardship, really…)
(NOTE: And we did – we stayed FIVE nights with them in 2018 at their special rate.)
When I was handed the bill I saw that they had charged us a bit less than shown on the 2016 Bill of Fare in the bedroom – and nothing for our food. When I pointed this out they shushed me.
CLAUDE HAS A GIFT OF RARE WOOD FOR GRAHAM
Claude had emailed in March to say she had some exotic wood for Graham, which was when I had replied to request this booking.
CLAUDE AND GRAHAM FORAGE IN HER WOODSHED
While I dug out the Euros for Renee, Claude led Graham to her wood store and the log she had been saving for him. (There is generally a gift of interesting wood for my craftsman husband).
This time he had to somehow find room in our overcrowded car for a log of rare Osage Orange (Maclura Pomifera). She cut him a generous length.
ENOUGH RARE WOOD TO SHARE WITH COUSIN CLIVE
There was enough to pass some on to my cousin Clive to experiment with in his woodturning (he was thrilled when presented with it upon our return). Also, she insisted we take a small branch of boxwood. I was amazed that Graham managed to find room for it in the back of our car, already piled high with luggage, wine and presents).
They both came out to see us off. This time I ventured to hug them both closely.
THEY HAD NOT EXPECTED A HUG – BUT THEY GOT ONE JUST THE SAME
“You are true good friends,” I told them, when they at last laid down the backpacks they had carried for us. They both looked slightly startled. “You made Graham special soup last year when he was feeling poorly, and we stayed an extra day without notice. And now we descended on you without proper notice again, and you still made us welcome and went to some trouble for us. I call that true friendship.”
“Then as friends you will stay longer next time,” Renee said with mock-sternness.
CLAUDE AND RENEE WAVED US OFF…
I joined Graham in our extremely mud spattered car. The sisters waited by their gate until Graham had turned our car – then waved us off all the way to the corner in the lane…
And with that, off we went to explore Auch, presented as ‘The birthplace of D’Artagnan’, just as though the Fourth Musketeer had existed outside the pages of Alexander Dumas’ book!
This is still our favourite B&B in France. It especially appeals if you have a creative streak. The breakfasts and dinners they offer are exceptionally generous and delicious.
Don’t just take our word for it –
ALL the many reviews (in divers languages) of this B&B are five-star*****
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Feature image of Carcassonne with kind permission by Alain Bonnardeanx – unsplash.
