Food markets

October 16, 2020

CHARMING ROUEN

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Food markets, French Cities, Gardens, Restaurants

AN ELEGANT 17C STREET IN CHARMING ROUEN

We finally emerged from the Cathedral into warm sunshine. I had a grand time zooming along on my scooter, exploring all around the old streets, and enjoying the garden surrounding another great church. It stood on an elevated site, and to one side we looked down on a street of extremely elegant half-timbered houses, dating from a later period – we guessed 17^th century.

CHARMING ROUEN – LOOKING FOR LUNCH:

We found a student quarter where we could have lunched cheaply, but every café, both indoors and outside was crammed with young people who probably had limited time. And of course, there was a lot of noise. I felt sure there must be a better option close by.

A CHARMING SPOT IN ROUEN for DELICIOUS FOOD

I took off ahead of Graham, and not far away, up a side street, I found a lovely quiet, and very French café in a charming little corner. Trees shaded the tables, and a few larger ones sat under their own canopies. It was just behind and above the cathedral and off the Rue de La Republique. We entered it from a picturesque ancient passage called the Rue de Chanoines.

(L’Espiguette, 25 Place St-Amand, Rouen.)

Even although it was not yet one o’clock we were lucky to find the only small table for two that was not reserved. We were the only foreign customers. We felt we had struck gold – as indeed we had. The young manager (perhaps owner?) was very persuasive in talking us into what proved to be one of their 3-course specials. This was not what we had planned, but we were very pleased in the event. The delicious, well-presented food was worth every penny – and surprisingly reasonably priced for the quality and ingredients.

Charming Rouen - L’Espiguette — L’Espiguette

CHARMING MEMORIAL GARDEN FOR ‘THE RESISTANCE’:

Charming Rouen - A Magnifcent Wisteria Arbour — A Magnifcent Wisteria Arbour

We decided in the afternoon to visit a promising looking garden on our route back to the Ibis. To my initial chagrin, Graham chose the ‘wrong’ garden from the SatNav list – but my mood changed when it turned out to have been dedicated to the WW2 Martyrs of the French Resistance in Rouen. As a child in that war I am still very grateful to them, and in awe of all courageous Resistance Fighters.

This garden is truly a ‘Peoples’ Garden’; well attended, and with greenhouses and a water-rill garden-in-progress.

(Le Jardin les Plantes, Rouen)

WE EXPLORE – WATER GARDEN – CIDER BARN – ARBOURS

There was a picturesque old barn that proved to house a cider-press (intact) with various bits of ancient kit outside. This provided Graham with several photo-shots; but he is most proud of his studies of a lovely wisteria that overhung a little arbour where we sat in the shade. The weather had grown unexpectedly hot and humid.

Charming Rouen - Cider Barn and Press — Charming Rouen – Cider Barn and Press

Charming Rouen - The Conservatory — The Conservatory

I ENJOY ‘CONVERSATION’ OF FEW WORDS:

Later, we made our way to the principal, grand conservatory. It was closed, but I got into a very satisfactory conversation with a French lady my own age. She had about as many English words as I had French (between three and ten at that stage, I’d say). We got along like a house on fire until she indicated that she’d like to get back to reading her book.

THE FRENCH ARE A COURTEOUS RACE

During this month’s tour through France we found every French person we met to be courteous. All were very helpful and friendly. We saw no indication of resentment regarding Brexit, although when we invited comment it was clear that there is a general unhappiness about Britain leaving. Probably anger, also; though only a very few allowed it to show.

CHARMING ROUEN – MY SEAFOOD WAS SWIMMING IN CREAM

We went back in the evening for a very light supper to that restaurant next to our hotel – the Ibis Budget/Zenith, Rouen. We chose crepes. I was disappointed to find my seafood crepe swimming in cream, which I found a bit overwhelming.

(www.restaurant-le-chamois.com/Rouen Zenith/France.)

WHERE IS JOAN?

We did not go into the tourist office in Rouen, for some reason. (I think because there was so much ‘in our faces’.) Had we done so we might have learned where the only outdoor statue of Joan of Arc could be found – in a very modern church (and museum?) Presumably, Rouen feels too ashamed to put up a prominent statue of her in the city where she was burned to death.

I have since learned that there are several sites in the town that track her last months, and where you can read details of her lengthy trial. We are sure to return to Rouen (so easily accessible) and I shall make sure to find out more about this incredibly charismatic saint.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Jackie's book - picture all askew

February 25, 2020

VILLELONGUE, AUDE- OUR FAVOURITE B&B

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Food markets Gourmet eating, Greeting friends

23^rd November 2016

OUR FAVOURITE B&B IN FRANCE – I CAUSE CONSTERNATION

Villelongue Coté Jardin, Location Chambre d’hôte dans l’Aude

This is our very favourite B&B in the whole of France (as we so far know it!)

It is the exceptional hospitality from the hostesses that has sent us back repeatedly to this charmingly restored ancient farmhouse. It adjoins the famous Abbaye Villelongue – though not anymore belonging to it.

Villelongue - Abbaye Villelongue — Abbaye Villelongue

WE COUNT ON A WARM WELCOME

Driving through that storm, we could not wait to get there. We eagerly anticipated the usual warm welcome. We little knew the shock we would cause.

A LONG TIME FROM MARCH TO NOVEMBER

In early March 2016 I definitely wrote an email to Claude asking her if it would be possible for us to stay for one night late in November. Would they still be open? I am pretty certain she wrote back to say arrangements could be made.

By November I was convinced in my own mind that I had followed this up at some point with the definite booking for November 23^rd. But March is a long way away from November. Even if I did… And Claude is very efficient; I imagine any booking I made would almost certainly have been entered into a register.

THE WORST STORM IN AUDE HISTORY?

We could hardly see out of the Golf’s streaming windscreen. Graham had to inch through the last miles of country lanes taking us to St Martin-le-Vieil, and then on to the Abbeye de Villelongue. We arrived outside the farmhouse about 7pm, and were instantly soaked through as we jumped out of our car.

It was our fourth stay with them in their historic house, but this time for only one night. (I must confess here that due to the ‘flu we had both forgotten to remind them in advance of this November arrival.

Villelongue - The Front Door — The Front Door

CLAUDE’S HAMMER-HORROR MOMENT

Wet branches swung out to lash us in the face, whilst thunder rumbled from the billowing grey/black clouds just discernible against the night sky. A sudden ‘CRACK’ and forked lightning threw the house into sudden relief. We staggered forward against the tearing wind…

And so it was that two wet and bedraggled visitors hammered on the front door, hoping that the sisters in their flat above would hear us. As great luck would have it Claude appeared with an armful of wood from the store at the back of the house.

She gasped when she saw us through the small pane of glass in the door (and who could blame her?) She was soon joined by Renée, who frowned: but the door was opened and

“What are you doing here?”

A SLIGHT DISPUTATION

You can imagine our relief when they beckoned us inside; from the expressions on their faces we had both feared they would turn us away.

In the downstairs hall I reminded them of the booking made in March. Claude denied all knowledge of it. I think that because we had corresponded as friends she had forgotten she’d answered ‘Yes, come – welcome’, or words to that effect. After all, it had been eight months ago!

They were clearly put out, having ‘closed down’ for the winter. They appeared to ignore our profuse apologies. I felt about five years old; I expected to be told to stand in the corner…

THE SISTERS QUICKLY ADAPT – I SHRINK…

Nevertheless they quickly adapted. They even insisted on coming out to help us with our bags, ignoring our insistence that it was not necessary, as we were only bringing in small knapsacks. I felt awful; a guilty small girl again – and I expect Graham felt the same…

NOT EXPECTED…

“We have not prepared food for you,” said Renee, her voice clipped. She ushered us into their comfortable sitting room (TV in here – a large one, which was promptly turned off). Their pretty cat came over to greet us – she seemed to remember us from former stays.

“Please don’t worry about food,” I said, remembering the sumptuous four-course feasts they usually provided. “We have little appetite –we’re recovering from ‘flu – but well past passing it on,” I explained hastily. “If it is at all possible, just a small bowl of soup each would be welcome – but please don’t go to any trouble.”

I felt pretty certain that such accomplished cooks would have some stock and leftovers or something which they could quickly rustle up into a soup. As it was we warmed up in front of a blazing log fire, and in about an hour two welcome bowls of gruel appeared. I wistfully hoped some bread would accompany it, but I guess they had none to spare. BUT- we were given the bedroom on the ground floor, which was a new delight for us (it has an especially lovely bathroom).

Villelongue - One of 4 Bedrooms — One of 4 Bedrooms

A HOUSE WITH A LONG HISTORY

This exceptionally good B &B is in the beautiful home of Claude Antoine and her sister Renée who go out of their way to ensure every comfort for their guests.

The house has a long history. Many centuries ago it was the living quarters of the monks in the adjoining famous abbey. Then – I do not know how far back, it became the farmhouse for the Villelongue estate and the home of the sisters’ family.

In World War 2 it was taken over by the Maquis – the French Resistance.

HARD WORK – GOOD TASTE – PERFECTION ACHIEVED

All I know is that when the sisters moved back in, the house was in a sorry state, with little or no furniture. Now, thanks to very hard work and shrewd buying at auctions etc. it is sympathetically restored, and full of lovely antique furniture. In every spacious room the beds are large and very comfortable, and there are armchairs and coffee tables. (No TV’s though, which does not worry us, as we don’t speak French. We are delighted to enjoy the elegant country lifestyle here instead.)

WE SHARE THE SISTERS’ BREAKFAST

In the morning we were invited to share their breakfast. It was more modest than in ‘the Season’; but still we enjoyed the same delicious crunchy bread. There was a small selection of local cheeses and their usual range of homemade jams. There was even some excellent dark orange marmalade; “brought from England by a guest”.

They had quite recovered from their shock and annoyance at us, but Claude shook Graham gently. She laughed, and said “Next time you come for more than one night. Yes?” So we know that before too long we will have to plan a holiday that takes us to the Midi-Pyrenees again. (Not such a hardship, really…)

(NOTE: And we did – we stayed FIVE nights with them in 2018 at their special rate.)

When I was handed the bill I saw that they had charged us a bit less than shown on the 2016 Bill of Fare in the bedroom – and nothing for our food. When I pointed this out they shushed me.

CLAUDE HAS A GIFT OF RARE WOOD FOR GRAHAM

Claude had emailed in March to say she had some exotic wood for Graham, which was when I had replied to request this booking.

Villelongue - Turned Apple made of Osage Orange — Turned Apple made of Osage Orange

CLAUDE AND GRAHAM FORAGE IN HER WOODSHED

While I dug out the Euros for Renee, Claude led Graham to her wood store and the log she had been saving for him. (There is generally a gift of interesting wood for my craftsman husband).

This time he had to somehow find room in our overcrowded car for a log of rare Osage Orange (Maclura Pomifera). She cut him a generous length.

ENOUGH RARE WOOD TO SHARE WITH COUSIN CLIVE

There was enough to pass some on to my cousin Clive to experiment with in his woodturning (he was thrilled when presented with it upon our return). Also, she insisted we take a small branch of boxwood. I was amazed that Graham managed to find room for it in the back of our car, already piled high with luggage, wine and presents).

They both came out to see us off. This time I ventured to hug them both closely.

THEY HAD NOT EXPECTED A HUG – BUT THEY GOT ONE JUST THE SAME

“You are true good friends,” I told them, when they at last laid down the backpacks they had carried for us. They both looked slightly startled. “You made Graham special soup last year when he was feeling poorly, and we stayed an extra day without notice. And now we descended on you without proper notice again, and you still made us welcome and went to some trouble for us. I call that true friendship.”

“Then as friends you will stay longer next time,” Renee said with mock-sternness.

CLAUDE AND RENEE WAVED US OFF…

I joined Graham in our extremely mud spattered car. The sisters waited by their gate until Graham had turned our car – then waved us off all the way to the corner in the lane…

And with that, off we went to explore Auch, presented as ‘The birthplace of D’Artagnan’, just as though the Fourth Musketeer had existed outside the pages of Alexander Dumas’ book!

This is still our favourite B&B in France. It especially appeals if you have a creative streak. The breakfasts and dinners they offer are exceptionally generous and delicious.

Don’t just take our word for it –

ALL the many reviews (in divers languages) of this B&B are five-star*****

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Feature image of Carcassonne with kind permission by Alain Bonnardeanx – unsplash.

Basilicata - Fond Farewell - View from our bedroom

April 28, 2019

BASILICATA IS UNFORGETTABLE

Jackie Usher Fond Farewells, Food, Food markets Masseria Mazzapede, Wine

4^th November, 2017.

The above view was taken from the balcony outside our bedroom

BASILICATA – FOND FAREWELLS – AND YET MORE GIFTS

Basilicata is unforgettable and remembered with love. We made our fond first farewell when standing in our hallway, ready for the off. Giuseppe came up the stairs to help with our luggage, which was strewn all along the passage.

He was carrying two large carrier bags, stuffed with groceries. He held them out to us.

“Here”, he said, “ some specialities of our area to remind you of Basilicata.”

“We’ll never forget Basilicata,” said Graham. “I love this area and the friendship we’ve found here. I don’t know when, but I’ll be back.”

BASILICATA – LOCAL FOODSTUFFS

We looked in the bag at the packets of superior quality: Very local pastas made from Durum wheat (and some had porcini in them). Senise peppers, and packets and jars of chickpeas and black lentils. We were still serving some of them up for friends to taste nearly a year later.

Basilicata-Fond Farewell-Giuseppe — Giuseppe

BASILICATA FAREWELL – HUGS ALL ROUND

Then Graham and Giuseppe embraced like true brothers, and I in turn got a hug (difficult when I only reached Giuseppe’s chest). We all picked up what we could manage and took it down to the car.

BASILICATA – FAREWELLS IN MIGLIONICO – OUR ‘HOME TOWN’

We decided we must make time to drive into Miglionico and say farewell to friends we had made there. First stop was ‘Frutti’, the greengrocer’s shop.

As ever, we were greeted with a mixture of salutations and giggles.

‘Just a minute,’ said the proprietress, turning back to the customer she was serving.

We were in a hurry, so Graham said, a bit loudly; ‘We’ve not come to buy – just to say goodbye. We leave for home today’; (the easiest explanation).

The friendly shopkeeper immediately rushed round her table of produce to hug us both tightly.

‘I SHALL MISS YOU,’ she said, ‘please come back soon.’ This was backed up by a variety of clucks and whisperings amongst the good ladies waiting.

Finally – ‘Arrividerci’ they all chorused, as we backed out of the door.

‘Arrividerci,’ we replied, and really hoped that would be possible. We had grown to feel very comfortable in this little town.

Basilicata-Fond Farewell-Vincenzo — Vincenzo

Next, Graham popped his head into all the bars, looking for his good friend Vincenzo, but it was too early.

We had given up, and were making for his house when his best buddy, met once before, stopped us.

‘Vincenzo is on his way to meet me,’ he said. So we waited with him, and when, shortly, Vincenzo arrived, we all went into that nice coffee shop and pasticceria before mentioned.

Over coffee we enjoyed some last friendly chat. Then addresses and telephone numbers were exchanged, embraces all round, and we were at last on our way down to Sicily…

BASILICATA – AN UNFORGETTABLE REGION

We had really made the most of our seven weeks. We’d taken in churches and castles, and tackled never-ending, climbing corkscrew roads. We had paddled in the sea, and slaked our avid thirst for history. We suddenly felt very sad to be leaving Basilicata.

BASILICATA – UNFORGETTABLE PEOPLE

We shall never forget Basilicata, or the lovely people we met there – most of all Familia Riccardi, so kind to us. Mimi, who would come and lovingly tend his beautiful garden: Giulia, who made us so welcome and plied us with her home-baked cakes. Glamorous Angela and her husband – both charming, and providers respectively of memorable pasta dishes and meat barbecued to perfection. Elegant Alfonso from Rome, with his beautiful wife and daughter. Most of all we will miss Giuseppe; our charming, cheerful – unforgettable host. If we can return, we shall…

Viva Basilicata!

Basilicata-Fond Farewell-Masseria Mazzapede nr Matera — Masseria Mazzapede nr Matera

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Feature image

April 18, 2019

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S ‘SOUL’ OF ITALY.

Jackie Usher Food, Food markets, Getting to know the locals, Italian Towns, Local History, Tourist Town Day trip, food, UNESCO World Heritage Site

Wednesday, November 2^nd:

ALIANO – OUR LAST DAY OF EXPLORING BASILICATA

“If we don’t go today, we’ll never see the little town where Carlo Levi was imprisoned,” I told Graham. “I’ve got to do our packing tomorrow – and there’s quite a lot. We’ve spread ourselves over seven weeks. Apart from clothes there’s that thin duvet we brought which has proved so useful, and things like our chest cooler – never really used, but full of veg and bread; and…”

“O.k., oKAY,” he said. “Don’t go on. I thought you couldn’t find Gagliano.”

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S GAGLIANO DISCOVERED

“I told you. He made up the name Gagliano – I discovered that three weeks ago. It’s really called Aliano – and it’s not far. See? And we can call in again at Ferrandina on the way back. You said you wanted to take more photos there. And Pisticci – which Giuseppe said we should visit.”

Thus it was that our last day trip in Basilicata proved to be one of the very best of our many lovely memories of this unique part of Italy.

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S LANDSCAPE: (The feature image at the top of this post was taken from Aliano)

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Centre of Aliano — Centre of Aliano

Sure enough, as we approached the town – less than an hour’s drive away from our base, the landscaped changed. Flattish ‘khaki’ farmland gave way to the bare, grey-white clay hills described and painted by Carlo Levi. We took the winding, narrow road up to the town. We had to park right at the beginning, until we saw a sign that said invalid parking was allowed further in. This was just as well, because we drove quite a way down the main street before we found the Blue Badge Car Park. Even then a quite long walk awaited us.

We had got as far as some railings overlooking a ravine, where men who clearly looked like locals were eating great slices of pizza they had bought at a littlel shop opposite. We were about to go in when I noticed a tiny baker’s shop almost next door.

ALIANO HAS A TRADITIONAL BAKERY

“Just look at those loaves, Graham – and the lovely rolls. They’re almost like our French dinner rolls at home. I’ve never seen them before in Italy.”

So we went into the shop, which was really the bakery. A very small, very old man was bringing loaves out of a brick oven. He used a long shaft (12 feet?) with a paddle at the end, which he manoeuvred carefully under each loaf.

His wife stood behind the modest, L-shaped wooden counter that fronted the place. She smiled and wished us ‘Buongiorno.’ I pointed at a small loaf on the shelf behind her, but was interrupted.

ALIANO – ‘THE SOUL OF ITALY’ IN A BREAD ROLL

I’d hardly noticed a pretty young girl squashed behind Graham until she confronted us and asked,

“Americano?”

“No. Inglese.”

“Aah. You will like Italian bread, then. Inglese know good bread.”

“Some do – a lot just buy wrapped from supermarkets. Silly things.”

“This VERY good bread. I come from Bari whenever I can. This town is SOUL of ITALY!” She threw up her arms. “And this bread the SOUL of the Soul of Italy! Best bread; you taste. Here!”

ALIANO – WE EAT ‘THE SOUL OF ITALY’

And she lifted up the little counter and dived through to a table at the back, bringing out a small bread roll. This she broke open. She then reached across the amused, ageing proprietress and picked up an olive oil dispenser. She doused each side of the little roll, then put her hands into a small pot and sprinkled some finely chopped fresh basil on each half, bit into one and threw up her hands – “Divine!” She then thrust the other half at us.

“The taste of Italy! Eat the SOUL of Italy!”

So we did –

The proprietress beyond the counter grinned at me and spread her hands in that ‘Waddayado’ gesture seen a thousand times in Hollywood films featuring Italian actors.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Clay columns — Clay columns

ALIANO – NO ESCAPE FOR CARLO

After buying our loaf, and receiving hugs and kisses on both cheeks from all present, we made our way to the railings again. Looking over, we saw sharp peaks of that white clay, too perilous to descend by. And there was nothing else – for miles. No wonder that Carlo Levi did not need to be kept confined, for where would there have been to escape to? In those days (1936-1945) there was little traffic, and only the one road down. The extreme other end of the village held only the bleak graveyard, set on a high promontory. And all the surrounding area was well nigh empty – and very poor.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - The piazza — The piazza

ALIANO FRUSTRATION – LEVI MUSEUM CLOSED – BUT STILL WONDROUS

We followed the railings, passing a really exquisite little square. This held the old town hall, and some attractive houses. Not least was ‘The House of the Hundred Eyes’, so called because of its many windows.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - House with a hundred eyes — House with a hundred eyes

Unfortunately, the museum was closed, and so we could not get a guide to take us to view Levi’s lodgings at the time of his ‘imprisonment’. Also closed was the house he later had built. Strangely, he decided to return to this place of ‘exile’. He had made so many friends – and no wonder – he had used his doctor’s skills to treat the poor for no payment.

BUT DID WE SEE THE VIEWS CARLO LEVI HAD SEEN?

But we did see them from the outside. The house where he stayed was substantial and attractive. His own, later dwelling was right on the edge of the escarpment. He would have looked right over a sea of the white clay peaks, caused by too much forest clearance in the past. We wondered if he had lived to see the later changes in the more distant landscape, when topsoil was brought in and fields planted on the plains.

NO WONDER CARLO LEVI DID NOT ATTEMPT ESCAPE

Carrying on down the long main street we came to a bust depicting this great man and benefactor. Just below it were steps to a viewing platform to see to the bottom of the deep gorge. Graham went down, but I stayed up top. I watched people coming away from the ‘castle’ – too late for us. A bell tolled ‘Closing Time’.

DID HIS ‘PRISON’ LOOK AS ATTRACTIVE THEN?

Aliano today is a very clean, bright and pretty town. I can’t help thinking that it must have looked very different to Carlo Levi. That writing, painting, Jewish doctor-activist put it and ‘Lucania’ as Basilicata was known, ‘on the map’. He wrote about his captivity there, and the poverty of the whole region, and most of all – the wretched conditions of those starving souls living in the Sassi of Matera. It was through his book ‘Christ stopped at Eboli’ that new homes were built for the 16,000 odd inhabitants turned out of their wretched cave-dwellings. They were offered the alternative option of passage to America and Australia.

Some, like our friend Vincenzo, came to Britain.

Aliano - Carlo Levi's 'Soul of Italy' - View — Carlo Levi’s ‘Soul of Italy’

LOST IN THE TUNNEL – WE MISSED THE CITTA ANTICA

PISTICCI.

We took a different route back, visiting again (very briefly) Ferrandina. This road first took us through Pisticci. Giuseppe had told us that this town should be on our list. So we were bemused when after entering by a very long tunnel cut through the mountain, we finally ascended to a rather boring, characterless modern street of little shops. We did pass a statue in a small piazza. It did not seem that Pisticci was that special after all. We were just as bewildered as the staring local inhabitants were by us. Clearly, they were not used to foreigners in left-hand drive cars.

The road looped down, and we exited through the same tunnel by which we had entered. We were glad to stop once more in Ferrandina. Later, studying the map carefully, I realised that we had been in Pisticci SCALO – we think it must mean ‘New Town’ and had by-passed the ancient hilltop town, which probably saw numerous tourist coaches.

ALIANO – LAST DISCOVERY IN BASILICATA

It was with sadness that we returned to base that evening. Our stay in Basilicata was at an end. We had grown to love the region – and that love is with us still. The next day (3^rd November) would be taken up with packing and checking the car over for our next long leg – down to the ferry, and then exploring Sicilia (Sicily).

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

January 25, 2018

We Fall in Love with Padua

Jackie Usher Food markets Lemon presse, Porcini

Italian Ice Cream Cools us Down.

DAY 11: 13th September: MESTRE:

We fall in love with Padua on our fifth route, stopping at Padua- a city to fall in love withe-4-Mestre — Our fifth route, which would start to lead us down through Italy

We fall in love with Padua-on-route-to-Presezzo — Our route wove between high wooded hills

We fall in love with Padua, although on this short three-day trip we explored four centres.

Everyone who visits Venice exudes rapture with that place and we were making a return visit. To save money we stayed just outside in Mestre, a little town on our road. We had booked a night there online, choosing ‘B&B Rivo Alto’ 821 in Mestre. Because the direct route was very short, we went via Piacenza. Some impressive buildings were glimpsed briefly through its ancient city walls on a previous Italian holiday.

We fall in love with Padua-Main-piazza-Piacenza — The piazza was home to magnificent buildings

We had always vowed to go back and explore Piacenza further, but somehow, because of parking restrictions, we walked for miles without finding an entrance to the ancient walled centre. However, we followed the very large museum round to the back, where we were able to sink onto shaded steps, and watch as an Art exhibition was being prepared for assembly inside.

We fall in love with Padua--Piacenza-urn — With its stand this urn stood over five foot high – it dwarfed Jackie

Graham took a photograph of an enormous Greek amphora that stood beside one of the doors. Despite many visible repairs, its beauty was impressive. We became hungry, and mindful of passing time, so left the centre to explore on another holiday.

Heat bounced off the pavements as we plodded four streets back to our even hotter car.

Reaching Mestre, we had great difficulty finding our guest house. We were rescued by the proprietor of the excellent artisan gelateria in the town, who gave us some of his wonderful ice cream and personally phoned the owners, who were at work! They had forgotten all about our booking. To be fair, it had been made months before.

We found the house tucked down a track-road right beside a major highway. When we at last met the owners they plied us with wine, and went to buy special foods for our breakfast. We were totally won over by their charm and concern for us, and we loved our artistically decorated bedroom: So we are happy to recommend this small, personal B&B.‘B&B Rivo Alto’ 821 Mestre.

We had planned to re-visit Venice that evening, and also the next morning, as we knew we would arrive in Mestre mid-afternoon. But by that time it was too late, and after just looking up the restaurants in the town we have no memory of eating out. We guess we felt the heat and probably brought out uneaten rolls bought for lunch in one of the many excellent pasticcerias, and washed them down with water.

WE FALL IN LOVE WITH PADUA – IT’S SOMEP’N ELSE!

DAY 12: 14th September:

In the morning we made a decision: We actually decided to skip Venice this time and leave it for a Bargain 4 Nights (they do come up) when we’d maybe actually stay on the Grand Canal. Instead, we decided we would drive to our next stop via Padua, which is less visited, but has some famous mosaics.

We fall in love with Padua--Padua-Cool-collonade — Cool colonnade

Tired and dejected, we drove back to Padua, and immediately were so delighted that we spent almost the entire day there. It’s absolutely wonderful; practically ALL historical, and spacious because it was always a very rich city.

The beautiful old buildings are still in the centre of daily life, and treasures abound, particularly in St Anthony’s Cathedral; so much gold, so many wonderful sculptures and paintings – it was all just TOO much to take in. We could not understand why Padua is not a major tourist destination – but were grateful for the fact. We plan to return and stay in Padua some day.

We fall in love with Padua--Padua-covered-market — Magnificent indoor market

We fall in love with Padua--Padua-porcini — Porcini – the king of funghi

There were two very colourful markets in piazzas surrounded by medieval buildings (one had the large covered market shown above)… One stall had a very large display of the delicious porcini mushrooms we have grown to love. I stood by, enjoying the aroma, and wished that for once we were self-catering!

We walked down many beautiful old streets, eventually finding ourselves in an enormous grassed arena with Roman statues, and bridges over a little stream. It was again a very hot afternoon, so we plonked ourselves at a bar and bought lemon pressè, and ate a light salad lunch before walking back to our car – but had to stop for yet another Kaffé (espresso) at another nice little bar-cafe on the way, to sit down for a bit, (perhaps you can guess why).

We fall in love with Padua--St Anthony-Padua — St Anthony’s Cathedral

We fall in love with Padua--park-Padua — This was part of a central area full of statues

Then a short journey on the coastal road (via Ravenna) to the start of the mountains of The Marche, and:

SAN MARINO.

HOTEL ON TOP OF A MOUNTAIN

This Independent State within Italy (Yes! Anyone remember the British film ‘Passport to Pimlico’?) has a charming castle atop a very high, pointed volcanic ‘plug’, and we stayed in the Hotel Joli. Although habitually taking coach parties, we two were warmly welcomed and given all help by the receptionist. Considering the position (just under the castle), we had a surprisingly spacious and attractive room at a very reasonable price. I ticked mid-range, but some may consider it ‘budget’.

In the morning the breakfast was also above the average for a self-service. The parking was no problem and free, as we have a blue badge. I can thoroughly recommend this hotel. It is attractive and has retained the personal touch.

Room Tip: We were at the back with a glorious mountain view. (We arrived at sunset; and sunrise was just as impressive.) No noise to disturb us, and staff attention to detail formidable…

We fall in love with Padua--Sunset-San-Marino — View from our bedroom window at sunset

We fall in love with Padua-Sunrise-San-Marino — At dawn

Text by – Jackie Usher SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – All other images have been taken by Graham using an Olympus VR-370.

Save