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Bigaroque - Dordogne

DORDOGNE – OUTSTANDING SCENERY – COUX-ET-BIGAROQUE

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10th May:

DORDOGNE – MISSING SOME PRETTY VILLAGES

Dordogne was on the lips of many of our friends, and reading accounts of it’s outstanding scenery, Dordogne was a must place for a prolonged visit.  I had studied all the options on Google maps and chose a route starting on the D140.  This took us through increasingly scenic countryside and some notably historic and pretty villages. I was disappointed when Graham drove right past Barbezreux.  It was too soon to stop for coffee under the small cluster of trees in the middle of the main street, and I knew better than to push for deviating at this stage.

 

– AND A CAVE CHURCH

Similarly, I had found information that there was a ‘rock church’ – in other words, a cave church, in Aubeterre-sur-Dronne, the next village on this lonely country road.
Of course, from our car we could not see enough to tempt us in, but presently a very eye-catching cluster of old buildings came into sight.

 

DORDOGNE – TYPICAL BUILDINGS

Bigaroque House - Dordogne
Bigaroque House – Dordogne

We saw some mansard roofs typical of the Dordogne; the houses were definitely taking on a ‘different’ look.  They proved so attractive to Graham that he found a place to safely stop the car in order to take photographs.

 

DORDOGNE – ST PRIVAT-DES-PRÉS – TYPICAL VILLAGE

A glance at my Google map showed that we were gawping at St Privat-des-Prés.  Soon we were approaching Neuvic, marked as a larger town.  I hoped we would go into the centre to find lunch.  However, on the way we almost drove past a really superior boulangerie (and as all the boulangerie in France are impressive, this was saying something.)

DORDOGNE – GREAT LUNCH IN A BOULANGERIE

We saw tables both inside and on the pavement, and they were mostly filled with people who were eating more than sandwiches – we could see hot food and salads.  That decided us.

 

 

FRENCH FOOD IS A MAIN ATTRACTION

We had not stinted ourselves regarding paying for nice meals on this particular holiday.  French cooking, to my mind, still deserves its reputation as the most imaginative and delicious food in the western world.  As we are not sure if we’ll be able to take another holiday like this, and French food is an important part of the attraction – we decided we would not, as previously, seek to eat cheaply most of the time.  A wise decision, as my breathing was playing up already.

 

 

GOOD FRENCH FOOD NEED NOT BE EXPENSIVE

Even so, we would save quite a bit by sampling the good, fresh food on offer here – maybe allowing extravagance towards a gourmet dinner later on.  As it turned out, we were so well fed in that boulangerie that we did not look to eat dinner that evening.

Of course, we did not turn off into Neuvic, but when we reached St Alvère some forty five minutes later, we were sufficiently enchanted by the quirkily-shaped ruin right on the village street that Graham looked for a parking place, in order to get out my scooter.

DORDOGNE – A WALK BY THE RIVER

There was plenty of historic and architectural interest and beauty in this medieval village beside the river.  By the time I’d had a little walk and got back on my scooter, we decided to join the crowd sipping long drinks in the shade of umbrellas shading the many tables set out in the large town ‘Place’.

 

DORDOGNE – TRY AND SEE LIMEUIL

We were now only about half-an-hour from our destination, so we decided to save Limeuil for another day.  I had seen some really lovely images when researching – an angled bridge reflected in the river, and gardens.

 

DORDOGNE – WE FIND OUR SMALL HOTEL

Of course, this place so close by got forgotten when we finally reached base in the tiny village of Coux-en-Bigaroque (even Miss SatNav went round in circles until we realised that the sizable old house next to the church at the bottom of the village was actually our hotel.)

 

Bigaroque's Hotel roofs peeping through - Bordogne
Bigaroque’s Hotel roofs peeping above

 

our hotel
our hotel

LUGGING OUR SUITCASES

The concierge (or was he the manager?) was very helpful about letting us park on the grass next to the church.  Still, Graham had to lug our suitcases up the steep road and round the side of the hotel.  We then crossed a charming courtyard lined with rambling roses.  They climbed up the galleries shielding set-back rooms (very promising).  He then had to haul our luggage up a steep, narrow staircase to reach the floor where our bedroom was facing us.  A sign on the ugly flush door informed us that we would be staying in ‘Monet’.

WERE MONET’S PAINTINGS THIS GLOOMY? NO!

Our bedroom was nothing like the glimpses we’d had from the courtyard.  Instead ‘Monet’ had borrowed the most sombre tones from that artist’s palette.  The walls were in two dark shades of greenish-grey, with long, thin curtains of a dull mulberry framing the view of the somewhat wild garden opposite.

A DINGY OLD BATHROOM

The bathroom was even worse.  The bath suite was recognisably circa 1930, and the only light (above the sink) was very subdued.

 

– AND A BED THAT ATTACKS YOU

The bed was one of those iron-framed jobs that catch you in the shins unless you spot the problem first. The small wardrobe (again 1930’s in cheap oak) was badly in need of a coat of wax.  Still, in the centre of the Dordogne we were lucky to get a room for around £50 a night.  Shabby and dismal it may be, but the bed was comfortable enough to allow for sleep, and we had been given the extra pillows we had requested.

COUX-ET-BIGAROQUE – THE VILLAGE IS A GEM

And this village!  An absolute gem. We wasted no time in walking along the road at the bottom, and very soon Graham was clicking madly away with his camera.  House after attractive, charmingly detailed house came into view.  However, it was an ancient barn with a perilously sagging roof that presented the most artistic challenge.

Roof tiles in Bigaroque _ Dordogne
Roof tiles in Bigaroque

I shared his enthusiasm for at least twenty minutes before I finally scooted off on my own to find yet more subjects.

DISAPPOINTING DINNER

We were almost too late for dinner in the hotel by the time we returned – and there was nowhere else to find an evening meal in this hamlet.  Besides, we did not know where to find the nearest town.

The dining room was attractive, but the meal mediocre, served by over-worked staff on an exceptionally hot evening.  We could not but sympathise with them.

We took another short walk afterwards.  This time up the steep, short village street.  There was a boulangerie (now closed) at the top, near the police station.  That was it.  Immediately, we found ourselves descending the other side of a loop.  We had now circumnavigated modern Coux-et-Bigaroque – shorter than its name!

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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THE ARC DE GERMANICUS - Saintes

SAINTES

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THE ARC DE GERMANICUS

I’d made a few notes, but in the end we lazily made for the Arc de Germanicus, which we knew had been moved from its original site, where it had proved a blockage to traffic.  It now occupies a large circular space close to the river.
Germanicus had been the nephew of the Emperor Tiberius, and the arch was erected to mark the monumental entrance to Gaul -Aquitaine – the ‘Mediolanum’, and the completion of the crossroads of Gaul, the ‘Via Agrippa’.

 

WE NEGLECT THE ROMAN STADIUM

Having in our travels in Europe (especially Italy) visited so many Roman stadia and amphitheatres, we decided it was just too hot to trail through the streets to find yet another one.  So we just generally pottered around this attractive old town of white stone houses built mainly in the 17th century to the 19th, but left before it was time to eat dinner at any of the attractive restaurants.

Taillebourg - Saintes
Cross the bridge for cocktails

 

TAKE ANY ROAD…

We cruised around the area, keeping an eye open for a likely place, but what we eventually found were some umbrella-shaded tables overlooking the river –overspill from a large hotel just over the road.

 

MUSIC AND COCKTAILS:

There was music, and a band about to start up, and people were sipping cocktails. Now I have had very, very few cocktails in my long life, and I suddenly decided I’d like to try one.  We spent a good hour relaxing while the sun went down; then made our way back to Taillebourg, meaning to try the better-class auberge.  But we found it closed – also the restaurant in the hotel by the river.

 

River restaurant - Dordogne
River restaurant

FREE-RANGE CHILDREN CAN RUIN ANY MEAL

So we went back to the same place as the evening before. Only this time there was a large party of families with very noisy and unruly children, who were constantly running in and out, shouting and playing with the settings on the ready-laid tables.  If that were not enough, the food that evening was abysmal.
We had the same nice waitress, who did her best to tame those children – but their parents were totally indifferent.  I wondered – could this group be English?  We’d always found in our Continental travels that French and Italian – and certainly German children, all knew how to behave in public.  But no; a mother actually chided her child in rapid French.  I felt a little better then, and mentally apologised to all the British parents who do keep their kids in order… 

 

NO GOOD REVUE THIS TIME

As for the food that evening – I concluded there must have been a change of chef.  I decided that instead of writing the five-star revue I had planned the night before, the kindest (and most honest) thing was to not put anything at all on Trip Advisor.
We took a last little walk along the riverbank while Graham experimented at using the dying light for ‘special effects’
Then it was back to Cynlyns. John and Valerie were not to be found – evidently enjoying each other’s company.  We debated watching some television in the atrium lounge, but opted instead for a nice long read in bed.  Clean clothes for the morning waited in our backpacks.

 

WE FOUND IT HARD TO LEAVE THIS GREAT B&B

We found it hard to leave this lovely haven, and indeed, John and Valerie seemed happy to chat over the breakfast table.  Then there were photographs to take.   Finally we made for our car and the next leg of our journey.  Only a three-hour drive direct – but we were about to enter the Dordogne, regarded by many as the most scenically beautiful area in all France, so it was not about to be a quick drive-through…
Even so – we were setting out well rested and full of contentment, thanks to the seamless professionalism and genuine friendliness of Valerie and John in sharing their lovely home.  We assured them that only illness would stop us from booking a week with them next year.

 

CYNLYNS Le Ruisseau dans le Marais | B&B/Chambres d’hôtes à St Savinien

www.leruisseaudanslemarais.fr/

 

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Fishing near St Savinien

PERFECT B&B – SAINT SAVINIEN

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8th – 10th May 2018

A BIT HARD TO FIND – READ THE INSTRUCTIONS

 

Miss SatNav sent us past Saint Savinien and onto a small hamlet – a maze of huddled houses bisected by small lanes that were little more than tracks.  It kept stopping us outside a bungalow that was clearly not our destination.  In the end Graham used his mobile phone to dial the number on our confirmation document – he would not listen when I tried to read the detailed instructions that Valerie had sent.  (It is a truth universally acknowledged that – Men always know best!!!!)

 

Our Hosts - John & Valerie - PERFECT B&B
Our Hosts – John & Valerie

WE MEET OUR HOST

 

We found without further trouble the white house with the navy blue door and window trims – very smart.  As our car drew up the door opened and out stepped a large man with an even larger grin.  He rubbed his right hand down his somewhat shabby tee shirt, and thrust it out to us.

“Welcome,” he said – “I’m John,” and it was clear that our new host was yet another Englishman.  He offered to make tea, but I needed (you’ve guessed it) so he said “I’ll take you to your room.”

 

WE FIND LUXURY IN THIS B&B

 

There was a steep little staircase to climb, and I started to panic, but we crossed a short landing, and he threw open a door.  We were in a very spacious, beautiful room, full of colour and containing a wide, long bed.  There was a single bed, too, tucked into a sort of ingle on the opposite side of the room.  Both had beautiful, expensive-looking covers.  Good paintings adorned the walls and there was a very nice desk beside the door.

 

OH BOY – A BATH I CAN LIE IN:

 

The bathroom was next-door.  It appeared almost as large. I was delighted to see a large corner bath with seating-steps.  I had found difficulty in the last couple of years in getting out of our standard bath at home.  Lying down in it, as I longed to do, had been out of the question.  With Graham’s help – maybe even without, this pleasure could be mine again for the two nights we were booked in.

 

PLENTY OF LARGE, THIRSTY TOWELS

 

As I took in the rack of large, thirsty towels I found myself wishing fervently that I’d booked more nights – allowed us longer to enjoy this luxurious accommodation.

 

AN EYE FOR ART

 

More was to come.  John showed us more of the house, which was filled with works of art collected over the years; paintings both ancient and modern, some very nice sculptures – and a good sprinkling of amusing mementoes, some of them appearing to come from the United States.  These were explained when John led us through the kitchen to drink our tea in the large conservatory that shielded it from the bright, hot sun outside.  Before us stretched a long, tree-shaded lawn.

 

The conservatory where we had Breakfast - Perfect B&B
The conservatory where we had Breakfast

– AND OTHER SIMILARITIES

 

“Val’s out there, planting vegetables”, said John.  “She’s vegetarian.  Oh – I might mention she’s American – ten years older than me.”
Was this said to put us at our ease because of our age difference?  We’d ceased to think about it years ago, until forced to by my recent sudden onset of severe breathlessness and consequent loss of energy.
“Before we go and find her, follow me.”

 

LOUNGE WITH LONG, SOFT COUCHES – AND OPEN FIRE

 

We discovered that a large lounge was at our disposal (really, a lounge – long couches on three sides around an open fireplace; beside it a large, state-of-the-art TV.) Obviously, they were used to more guests; probably inviting in the tenants of their two gites.

 

A MEZZANINE GALLERY

 

From one corner a classy wooden staircase led up to a gallery where we spotted what might have been another seating area – or possibly an open mezzanine bedroom.  I longed to go up and look.  Perhaps I’ll get the chance, because we have made up our minds that if at all possible, we are returning next spring for a week in this lovely place.  There is a ground-floor en-suite that will suit us perfectly.

NOTE;  We have since been told by John and Valerie that they no longer offer B&B in their home; but are increasing their self-catering gites.  I am confident they will offer the same high standard.

 

WE MEET VALERIE – WELL ORGANISED AMERICAN

 

We crossed the lawn to meet Valerie, busy planting her little patch of veg.  She is tiny; smaller than me. (I’m 5 feet tall and considerably chunkier, though not obese.)
Valerie is a sylph – she looks almost frail, but it soon became clear that this lady is a dynamo of energy, and very, very organised.  She is responsible for the bookings – and probably much else around the spacious house.

 

View from the Conservatory - Perfect B&B
View from the Conservatory – Perfect B&B

 

JOHN – GARDENER AND PHILOSOPHER

 

John, we learned, is constantly caring for and developing the nearly three acres of grounds; and, we think, managing the gites.  We recognised immediately that they are ‘our sort of people’.  Shared values, such as ‘Life is for Living – not existing’; and that amassing a store of good friends is more rewarding than stacking up a bigger pile of shekels than the next guy, had found us new friends.
“If I’m not enjoying what I’m doing,” said John, “then I stop doing it. Life’s too short.”
We benefited hugely from the delightful fruits of their philosophy – their relaxed attitude that nevertheless embraced much hard work, and the generous sharing of their great good taste in the short time we stayed with them.  This couple do not stand on ceremony, but they offer their particular take on perfection to be enjoyed by all their guests.
www.leruisseaudanslemarais.fr/welcome/

 

Cafe by the River - Perfect B&B
Cafe by the River

 

THE CAFÉ BY THE RIVER

 

Valerie and John suggested some places where we could eat that first evening.  The ‘café’ by the river had pleased a lot of their guests, and was inexpensive compared to the rest.
We ended up there that evening and had a seat looking out over the water watching children splashing and fishermen doing what they do – which appears to be very little…
That evening we had a very good meal – particularly my seafood starter, which really would have been sufficient in itself.
Les Quais de Taillebourg: French, Brasserie, Creperie and Bar.  Route de la Brossardiere, 17350 Taillebourg, France.  +33 5 46 91 73 28 Website

 

9th May:

 

TIRED IN THE HEAT

 

We woke up still feeling a bit tired after our full day with stops for sightseeing the day before; and that very late night on the 7th.  The weather had been consistently hot for the past week, reaching 93 degrees Fahrenheit – possibly throughout our drive down with no Aircon.  That’s a bit hot for us particular Brits.  We like to feel a cool breeze on a nice warm day…
I can remember only that we were constantly seeking shade and cold drinks in this period.  We have consistently found hotter weather in the middle of France.

 

WE FIND KINDRED SPIRITS

 

So I think we just washed before going down to breakfast at nine am, though I was longing to get into that bath (as was Graham.) The plan was to go up after breakfast; but our hosts joined us in the conservatory, and we could not stop chatting; we all had so much in common.

 

JOHN – KING OF THE TRACTOR

 

Graham went off to accompany John on his mini-tractor, with which he cut the grass of the extensive lawns.  (This sit-on-mower was his pride and joy.  Valerie was ‘strictly forbidden’- and Graham, if he’d hoped for a ‘go’ was thwarted.)

 

WALLOWING IN THE BATH

 

Still, my husband was gone a couple of hours; but I didn’t mind.  Valerie and I chewed the fat.  Ex-hippies both; she in California, (though if memory serves I believe she grew up in the Mid-west. Forgive me, please, Valerie, if this is all entirely wrong.)
I worried that I was keeping her from her ‘duties’, but she assured me that they take life very much as it comes.  This was an object lesson in avoiding stress and still achieving super-efficiency.
Graham returned and we both made full use of that lovely double bath, and it’s equally abundant shower.  Clean and refreshed, we sallied forth to find a light lunch and explore a bit more of St Jean d’Angèly. (We had not gone into the centre the night before).

 

BACK TO ST JEAN D’ANGèLY

 

It took only eighteen minutes to go back and discover the centre of the old town.  The buildings in the main ‘place’ were mostly of the stately Napoleonic era, mixed with tall houses of simpler aspect.  Many had those  typical lavender window shutters.

 

Echoing back to the Napoleonic era - Perfect B&B
Echoing back to the Napoleonic era
The Famous Well - Perfect B&B
The Famous Well

A COOL DRINK – BUT NOT FROM THE FAMOUS WELL

 

In the middle of the ‘road’ a café had set many shaded tables.  We enjoyed a cool drink there, before I ventured down to look at the curious and ornamental old water fountain (or well?).  It is now empty, but contains a curious contraption – a sort of wheel is set into it. Perhaps it was once used to bring up water – in any case, Google searches reveal nothing.

 

ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – PICTURESQUE ROOFTOPS

 

Graham left me under the awnings set down the middle of the street while he climbed long, steep steps to explore views from the top of the town.

He came back full of enthusiasm, and I spent at least ten minutes peering into his point-and-shoot camera at the tiny, sometimes indistinct pictures of rooftops, far-extending views and those special twin towers, which looked less hideous than they had at close quarters the day before.

 

Clock tower - Perfect B&B
Clock tower

 

– AND LANDMARK CLOCK TOWER

 

A further walk around took us down some medieval streets to the landmark clock tower, which revealed itself atop a high arch, which rose above the roofs of the old, very tall, three-storied, elaborately half-timbered houses.
When we had satisfied ourselves that we had not missed any more significant landmarks, we got back in our car and headed for Saintes, about one hour’s drive away.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Architectural Masonary - Strange Beasts

A FIELD OF CARVED MASONRY

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An Architectural Museum in a Field

 

 

It seems so French – plonking down an open-air museum in the middle of a field; no board, no fee, no attendant.  Somebody (perhaps a mason) had cast copies of a plethora of beautiful and often vastly amusing carvings.  And perhaps not finding a museum to pay for them (just conjecture) had found a field to place them in.

We walked on raised ‘duck boards’ through two quite long avenues of intriguing bits and pieces of architectural art.  Statues, incredibly intricate pillar capitals, slabs and busts – all absolutely attention-grabbing and entertaining.  It is discoveries like this that are the rich rewards of DIY touring – because they are so totally unexpected.  LUVit!

We have no idea where the originals come from, but some seem incredibly old.  Instead of writing a long post about what we found, we felt the images speak for themselves.

 

A FIELD OF CARVED MASONRY - Cats Head
Cats Head
A FIELD OF CARVED MASONRY - Horseman and Child
Horseman and Child

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A FIELD OF CARVED MASONRY - River Spirit
River Spirit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A FIELD OF CARVED MASONRY - Fallen Capital2
Fallen Capital

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A FIELD OF CARVED MASONRY - Fallen Capital
Fallen Capital
A FIELD OF CARVED MASONRY - Repeat Foliage Pattern
Repeat Foliage Pattern
A FIELD OF CARVED MASONRY - Madonna and Child
Madonna and Child

How old is the original of this charming Madonna?

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Discovery near Melle - Chateau Dampierre

DISCOVERIES NEAR MELLE

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MELLE to ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – A SHORT ROAD OF DISCOVERIES

8th May 2018:

 

We left Lusignan to rejoin the D150, which presently changed to the D950, stopping for refreshment in Melle, a very attractive town with flowerbeds, and an exuberant row of fountains in the town square.  It also had a stately old church in golden stone reminiscent of our English Cotswolds. There was a very fine statue of Christ on his donkey just above the porch.

Discovery near Melle - Fountain at Melle
Fountain at Melle

A TOWN TO LIFT THE SPIRIT

 

We parked just outside one of the most architecturally pleasing covered market buildings we have seen – even in France, which excels with its ‘Halles’.  This one was built entirely of metal and glass.  Unfortunately, the photographs of this and the places mentioned above were among several that somehow got ‘wiped’ from Graham’s computer record.

This was a town to lift the spirit – full of colour, which seemed to put a spring in the step of its inhabitants, and even me, as I moved to bag an outside table where we could enjoy citron pressè in the shade of trees.

Discovery near Melle - BRIOUX-SUR-BOUTONNE
BRIOUX-SUR-BOUTONNE

BRIOUX-SUR-BOUTONNE:  TINY VILLAGE – ONCE IMPORTANT

 

Our road ran through a village called Brioux-sur-Boutonne, which surely once had been much more important, since we saw a very impressive arch soaring from what must have once been the city wall.

 

 

There was also an architecturally pleasing church.  As you do in this area of France, we passed many a fine, large house before we found ourselves in empty country again.

 

Discovery near Melle - White Roses near the entrance to Chateau Dampierre
White Roses near the entrance to Chateau Dampierre

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WE STUMBLE ACROSS A CHATEAU

 

Very soon we turned off the road to buy a sandwich from a tiny shop.  It was on a small square, surrounded by charming, low houses.  We passed by a row, all with identical blue shutters, and wreathed in white roses.

At the end of the row we were confronted by two tall gateposts.  Beside them was a small, modest lodge.  We found that by paying a small fee we could visit the chateau – Chateau Dampierre.   It was not large – but attractive in that the ground floor consisted mostly of arches.

 

– AND ARE MET BY THE OWNERS

 

We were met by a studious-looking young man.  He was very charming.  He called ‘Maman!’ and presently Graham’s eyes were rivetted on an EXTREMELY sexy lady, wearing tight leather trousers and a leather jacket.  (He remembers this brief encounter from four years ago.)   She made us welcome, although this was not one of their ‘open’ days.  Her manner was clearly aristocratic…

 

Discovery near Melle - The Front of Chateau Dampierre
The Front of Chateau Dampierre

Discovery near Melle - Garden Art at Chateau Dampierre
Garden Art at Chateau Dampierre

 

 

We had to ‘cross the moat’ to reach the front of the chateau.  Then we followed the moat around  each side, because it  still looked as deep and wide as it had ever been.  When we arrived at the front ‘Maman’ was waiting to take us up the stairs into their living quarters.

Because you had to ascend steep stairs to explore the interior of the chateau, Graham declined to go in – he said for my sake.

 

WE ENJOY A PRIVATE TOUR OF THE CHATEAU GARDEN

 

Instead, after taking money from a couple of other small parties,  the son of the house escorted us two around the grounds.  He told us a brief history of his home, and  drew our attention to many interesting and amusing statues.  Some were cunningly hidden amongst a small copse of trees.   We ended up at the very quiet  ‘end’ of the property.  He left us to sit and eat our sandwiches on a bench by the river, cunningly hidden by weeping willow trees.

 

WE SHARE A JUG OF LEMONADE

 

When we returned he was waiting with a jug of lemonade to share with us.   This small adventure has stuck in our memories, though we had to hunt through our photographs for clues as to its exact location…

 

Discovery near Melle - Track up to the Chapel
Track up to the Chapel

 

WE ‘FIND’ AN ANCIENT CHAPEL

 

We left on the D115 because it was an attractive country road.  It presently took a 45degree dogleg, becoming the D210.  Now it was much narrower, and totally empty.  Would this have been one of those very rare occasions when Graham became aware of driving on ‘the wrong side of the road’? i.e. on the left, as we do in Britain.
If so, it went undetected, because presently we spotted a large signpost by the side of the road, pointing up a long, straight avenue of trees – irresistibly cool.  The sign told of a very historical chapel at the top.  Graham parked up and unloaded my mobility scooter.   I rode in comfort while he toiled up the track, camera at the ready.   Eventually, we reached a tiny, tiny chapel. (Photos lost…)

ANOTHER PRETTY, FRENCH MARTYR

Trying to make sense of the French notice board there, we divined that this was founded by Saint Radagonde, who in the early 500’s AD had been a Thuringian princess – a barbarian.  She was captured by and was married to the Frankish King Clothar 1, son of Clovis 1, whose father was Charlemagne.  This queen would regularly wear a hair shirt, and inflict wounds upon herself in order to become a ‘Perfect Christian’. She founded the Abbey of the Holy Cross  just outside Poitiers. She is patron saint of several churches in France and England and of Jesus College.

Presently a Frenchman appeared.  He told us that this chapel deep in the countryside marked the scene of her martyrdom.  He was disappointed that it was closed, because he believed there to be amazing frescoes within, dating right back.

 

COPIES FROM ANCIENT ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES.

This was certainly a road of surprises.  Just a quiet country road – but presently we saw a sort of exhibition set up in a field just off the road.  Two avenues of pillars and statues, and various bits and pieces showing beautiful, intricate stone carvings.  Clearly, some were from churches and cathedrals – but not all…

 

Discovery near Melle - Copy of Ancient Stone Masonary
Copy of Ancient Stone Masonary

 

These were dotted around an empty field that we passed.  We wondered if these attractive bits and pieces were waiting to be collected and incorporated into some civic building – or a museum or something.   It was as well that they were all far too big to stow in our boot with a view to adorning our tiny courtyard back home.  The temptation might have proved too much!

 

Above is just a taster.  A short post follows with several more photos Graham took as we walked around, unattended, uncharged, on duckboards.

 

Meanwhile –

Surprisingly soon we found ourselves driving into the outskirts of St Jean d’Angely.

 

ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – OUTSKIRTS

 

A sharp right turn changed our road to the D939, but we presently turned left onto the D150, which had miraculously reappeared.  Soon we had reached St Jean d’Angèly, which I had read was notable historically.  This was a much larger town.  As soon as we parked Graham dived into the car boot for my scooter, which proved invaluable, as there was much to see even right here.  This included a large, very grand convent, lauded for guarding the skull of John the Baptist.

 

Discovery near Melle - The Convent at St Jean d’Angèly
The Convent at St Jean d’Angèly

THEY LOOK AFTER PILGRIMS HERE

 

We stood by the gate, reading a notice in several languages, telling pilgrims for Santiago de Compostella that it would feed them and direct them to free accommodation in the town.  We were very touched by this seemingly unique gesture of goodwill.

 

Discovery near Melle - The Gates to the Convent at St Jean d’Angèly
The Gates to the Convent at St Jean d’Angèly

THE FAMOUS TWIN TOWERS OF ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY

 

We had gone up the rather long street in order to visit the two towers that dominate the town’s skyline; but when we got there we agreed that in our opinion, despite being the pride of the inhabitants, and however famous, they looked rather ugly.

 

Discovery near Melle - The twin towers at St Jean d’Angèly
The twin towers at St Jean d’Angèly

 

SCOOTER WHIZZING

 

Altogether, we found so much to see that Graham was walking (and sometimes almost running) as I whizzed along on my scooter.  We found we had spent well over an hour in the place.  It was time to get back on the road and find our new B&B in nearby Saint Savinien.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Lusignan - Feature Picture

LUSIGNAN

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8TH May 2018:

 

We happened upon Lusignan by accident.  If I had not spotted the brown road sign, saying ‘Lusignan, medieval city, .25 klm’ we would have missed this treasure of French History.

 

ON THE WAY TO SAINT SAVINIEN

 

In the morning, saying our goodbyes to Brion Les Thouet, we were offered sandwiches to take on our journey to our next stop.  We thanked Yvonne and explained that we were not going very far at all – in fact, only about two hours down the direct road. (Only of course, it would take us longer as we would instead be meandering on by-roads to have a quick look round interesting places like nearby Loudun.  I’d first spotted it on Google images – a fairytale chateau sitting in a lake, still reached by its drawbridge.)

 

POTTERING IN POITIERS

 

From there it was a short ride into Poitiers, visited just for a morning once before, and remembered as ‘a place to go back to’.

We did so, but entering from a different direction we found it difficult to orientate ourselves.  Also, to find suitable parking anywhere near the centre.  There seemed little point in getting my scooter out.  Instead, I used my stick and we took a short walk, but found little of interest in that area.  It was too early for lunch, so we decided to continue our journey along the country road D611, which would pass la Fontaine de La Comte before rejoining the A10 highway to St Jean d’Angèly.

 

WE DEVIATE –DISCOVER MEDIEVAL LUSIGNAN

 

Luckily I spotted a brown sign indicating a short detour to the nearby ‘Mediaeval City of Lusignan’.

‘We have plenty of time,’ I said to Graham, ‘and it must be important for the sign to point down such a narrow road.’

He readily agreed, and we soon found ourselves in a small town full of interest.  Not least the ruined castle, high on a nearby hill, and built in the 11th century.  It was decided I shouldn’t attempt to reach it on my motor scooter; in any case, Graham argued that he doubted there was enough time.  But I was able to read a bit about it.  Its most famous resident was Guy de Lusignan, who on the second crusade became King of Jerusalem through marrying Sybilla, daughter of the leprous King Baldwyn.

Many were the adventures Guy had, and there is evidence of a film ‘Kingdom of Heaven’ about him. It is not Ridley Scott’s best – and it would appear to be not altogether historically accurate.  In any case, it is worth looking Guy de Lusignan up – I suggest the very short (but accurate) account in Encyclopaedia Britannica (where it states he was born in 1129 – not 1150, as in some accounts).
This castle was the favourite of the Duc de Berry, and you can see it illustrated (as it was in his time) in his famous Book of Hours.

 

Lusignan - Chateau Lusignan from our copy of the Les Tes Riches Heures - du Duc de Berry
Chateau Lusignan from our copy of the Les Tes Riches Heures – du Duc de Berry

 

THE TALL TOWERS – SOLE SURVIVORS

 

Nowadays there is little to be seen of it in this modest small town.  The most striking survivors are the considerable bases of what must have once been two very tall towers guarding the gated entrance to the once-proud and important city.

You will find them in the Duc de Berry’s illustrations.  Even today they dominate the main square of the town, where we parked.  See them in the Feature Photo at the beginning of this post.

 

ENTER THE OLD CITY OVER THE ‘DRAWBRIDGE’

 

They still bear two shields of the House of Lusignan, founded in the 9th century.  To pass through this ‘gateway’ into the old city you have to walk ‘over the drawbridge’, although the moat is filled in.
There are considerable stretches of the old city wall still intact, and a lot of houses remain as they were in the 14th century – and people still live in them.   There is a beautiful roofed Market Place in the centre of the old town, close to the church.

 

Lusignan - Exterior of Market
Exterior of Market
Lusignan - Interior of Market
Interior of Market
Lusignan - Church of Notre Dame & Saint Junien
Church of Notre Dame & Saint Junien

THE ANCIENT CHURCH IN THE OLD CITY OF LUSIGNAN

 

The ancient church is quite small, and rather plain now, though the very tall pillars and the vaulted roof give it dignity.  I found a few interesting plaques. Unable to read French, I struggled to find the names they referred to.  Topping some lower pillars were some amusing, if rather primitive depictions of mythical animals.  I particularly admired the semicircle of largely unadorned Romanesque arches and pillars that guarded the tiny stone altar.  They contained tall, stained-glass windows to illuminate it.

 

COULD THIS BE THE TOMB OF GUY DE LUSIGNAN?

 

There was a crumbling effigy on a heavy stone sarcophagus lid; it intrigued me, as it stood in front of a side-chapel dominated by an arrangement of crossed swords – but there was no explanation.

Lusignan - Church of Notre Dame & Saint Junien Doorway - Detail
Church of Notre Dame & Saint Junien Doorway – Detail

 

I AM ESCORTED ROUND

 

An organist had come in and was practising on a small instrument, so I tiptoed around.  Presently he climbed down from his stool, and escorted me all over the church.  This kind gentleman explained all items of interest, like the place reserved for the minister and his servants to sit – and that for the President.

 

FINE STATUES – AND THE ‘BESTIARY’

 

There were a few statues – one was of St Anthony of Padua.  The finest was a wooden pieta; the expression on Mary’s face was haunting.  My voluntary guide was also anxious to show me the ‘bestiary’; a collection of carvings facing the side door.

 

Lusignan - Church of Notre Dame & Saint Junien Doorway
Church of Notre Dame & Saint Junien Doorway

MANIPULATING MELUSINE

Lusignan - Carving of Melusine at Lusignan Photo by Jacques Mossot
Carving of Melusine at Lusignan Photo by Jacques Mossot

 

As well as these twisting, primitive, yet strangely sophisticated carvings of allegorical animals, he was keen for me to see their ‘Melusine’.  She is traditionally a two-tailed mermaid, but in this case resembled an air sprite, sailing down from her pillar with her mouth wide open. She is said to still fly around the castle wailing whenever a lord or king is about to die – (remember the King of Jerusalem.)

 

MELUSINE GOT AROUND: FRANCE, ENGLAND CZECHOSLOVAKIA

 

This is because this well-known creature of legend – half woman, half fish – was said to have founded the two Angevin families. (The ancestors of our English Henry11 and his famously feisty queen -Eleanor of Aquitaine,  and their turbulent sons.  Were their daughters also turbulent?)

Melusine was also held responsible for this Lusignan dynasty – set in the lands of said Eleanor.  Yes: – we were standing in Aquitaine.

 

LUSIGNAN’S GREAT TREASURE –WOOD TELLS IT’S STORY

 

My kind guide’s English was faultless.  He left me just before I reached what rivetted me – a quite large panel of sculpted wood.  It showed the town as it had been in mediaeval times; just before a battle.  The castle in the background was intact, of course, and quite impressive.  I readily recognised some of the houses that still stand just behind a section of the city wall.
The figure of a knight loomed large just above the centre of the picture – presumably Guy de Lusignan.  A few smaller figures were dotted here and there.  I cannot find out enough about it.

 

Lusignan - Carved wooden Plaque
Carved wooden Plaque

STUDYING THE STORY OF LUSIGNAN IN CARVING

 

Now I was impatient for Graham to find me. An expert conservationist of all things wooden, I knew he would love this panel with its gleaming patina of centuries.

When he arrived he was full of excitement at having found the medieval covered market hall. The intricate roof timbers had particularly charmed him, and he had taken several photographs.  Now he spent a long time admiring and studying the ancient carved wood panel; and of course, took some photographs of that.

I really hope that I can return to Lusignan when we are less hurried; it needs a little time to learn all of the rich history, and the meanings in the symbolism found all over the place there.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Magical Japanese Garden - Feature image

MAGICAL JAPANESE GARDEN

 

7TH May 2018:

 

LOIRE VALLEY HAS LARGEST LOVELY JAPANESE GARDEN

 

Now right in the Loire Valley, we set off early to find the largest Japanese gardens in Europe.  Parc Oriental de Maulévrier was no more than a forty-five minute drive away.

 

IN LUCK – EXTRA MOONLIGHT TOUR TONIGHT

 

We were so lucky!  When Graham reached the pretty little pavilion to buy our tickets he learned that this was one of the few dates when we could return in the evening for a guided tour in the dark.

‘Special features will be lit for you as you pass’ he was told.  He happily handed over 9 euros each for this double experience.

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Lake view 2
Lake view

WE ENTER DREAMLAND:

 

We followed a small crowd through a shrouded oriental gate to find ourselves in a sort of sunlit dreamland.  Our path ran alongside a long, thin, lake; but if we turned aside we could look down onto a charming garden of rocks and water, acers, cherry trees and azaleas in bloom – and sculpted dwarf trees.

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Lake view
Lake view

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Pagoda and Shrine
Pagoda and Shrine

A PAGODA, WATER AND STATUARY

 

At a bend in the path we came across a Japanese teahouse like a small pagoda with a high-domed tower.   Next to it a little museum, built in a style that closely resembled English half-timbered Tudor – but not quite.  The roof and windows told you ‘This is Japanese’.  Tasteful, intriguing statuary was dotted around.
While Graham descended the steps to photograph a foaming whirlpool, I further explored on my mobility scooter, and found a quite different aspect in the ‘upper lake’. Quiet and smooth, edged with trees – it was left natural this time. 

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Manicured Tree 2
Manicured Tree

 

TEMPLE BELLS – A SUNKEN GARDEN

Magical Japanese Garden - Waterfall
Waterfall

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Temple
Temple

I carried on around to the far side of the lake and presently found myself outside a temple, complete with god and goddess.  I paused – and bells and soft cymbals sounded.  Then, glancing to my left, I saw shallow steps leading down into the sunken garden, so I parked my scooter, pulled my stick from the back and set off to find Graham crouched low, now absorbed in ‘shooting’ the length of the lake.

‘Did you notice the water gushing from under a tiny bridge beneath that path you left me on?’  I asked.

 

THE RED BRIDGE 

 

We happily chatted before we parted; he to quickly walk around the top in order to join me.  Until he found another subject – the red lacquer bridge that started to span the lake.
We both waited until numerous couples had finished taking ‘selfies’. We were happy listening to the faint, slightly enchanting music that wafted towards us.
Graham was at last able to crouch, and stand, and move around, in order to capture the ‘perfect’ picture of this attractive feature.

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Pagoda Bridge
Pagoda Bridge
Magical Japanese Garden - Worms Eye View
Worms Eye View

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Manicured Tree
Manicured Tree

JAPANESE VISION

 

The shoreline was cleverly planted with bamboos, acers, and more of those otherworldly ‘sculpted’ trees.  We appreciated anew the unique Japanese veneration for utilising space and form.  The artful placing of pagodas and ornamental fishing lodges enhanced this.  It seems that only after they feel they have ‘got all these elements right’ that they then search for just the right colour to add.  Nothing in this beautiful garden seemed to have sprung up by chance…  Man’s hand was evident everywhere. 

 

THE BONSAI WORKSHOP

 

Before we left we took the fairly long walk up the hill away from the lake, in order to find the usual ‘facilities’.  These proved to be next to the ‘Bonsai Workshop’.  I am in two minds about bonsai. While some of the tiny trees are breathtakingly beautiful (especially in that place, where they were created by experts) I can’t help deploring the stunting and mangling of the natural plants.  I get quite confused about it. 

 

THERE WAS ALSO A LARGE SHOP SELLING PLANTS

 

We were at the beginning of our holiday.  There was no way we could accommodate even a small plant in our overcrowded car, so it was relatively easy to quickly pass through.  No need to avert our eyes.
It was very hot that day (perhaps the day our dashboard read 93°Fahranheit?) We were really not hungry – I cannot remember seeking lunch anywhere.  We simply returned to base and rested on our bed, reading.  When we went back in the evening at nine o’clock we already had our tickets, and joined a shorter line. 

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Lantern Carriers 2
Lantern Carriers

LANTERNS BOBBING TO MUSIC

 

We were each handed a paper Japanese lantern attached to a long, slim bamboo rod.  Graham stuck mine into the back of my scooter-bag.   As we followed the guide down the left-hand shore of the lake we were able to see across to a long line of bobbing, colourful lanterns. *** They made pretty patterns, reflected in the water.  It was all very romantic.  As we moved along, soft music and bells, and even snatches of poetry (in Japanese) wafted towards us, along with the scent of the blossoms lining our route. 

 

A FILM SHOW

 

When we reached the bottom of the lake we were led aside to where forms were set out in front of a small screen.  We were shown a rather naïve film; a sort of children’s fairy tale, using paper-cut-outs for both the sets and the figures. *** It was a tale about greed and retribution, and I was not surprised to find the ‘punishment’ somewhat savage.  World War Two taught us that the Oriental view of justice and fairness could differ from ours – which should not be surprising. Japan was cut off from the West for many centuries. 

 

BORED, I MAKE A DISCOVERY

 

Another little film started.  I got a bit bored, and already sitting on my scooter, I just slipped away, and so had all to myself a view of the sculpture of two Samurai, which had seemed fairly ordinary earlier in the day.   Lit up, it was like a golden line drawing.

THE SAMURAI SCULPTURE IN LIGHTS

 

I immediately went back to Graham and whispered to him.  He was grateful to follow me, and unimpeded by the crowd, he took several good shots of the sculpture, which he agreed now looked altogether much more impressive.  He thought it was like two wizards  fighting it out with force fields.

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Samurai Sculpture lit up
Samurai Sculpture lit up

 

 

I TAKE A RISKY PATH

 

Coming back up the other side, we crossed in the middle and without intending to I found myself ahead of our group.  All alone, driving my scooter along an extremely narrow little path bordered by bits of rock.  Soon I had to decide to try and negotiate an even narrower tiny humped bridge.
There were now people just behind me in the almost total darkness, and I‘ll never know how I succeeded in getting back to the path without mishap.  But in so doing, sitting low on my scooter I saw the little bridge lit up from some lovely angles, so I waited for Graham to catch up.  We quite lost the crowd, as he took shot after shot from a variety of positions.

 

Magical Japanese Garden - Night Lights 3
Night Lights

 

THIS JAPANESE GARDEN – SOMETHING ‘DIFFERENT’

 

That Japanese Garden is Something Different.  It is both intriguing and beautiful, and Graham and I can thoroughly recommend it.

www.parc-oriental.com Parc Oriental 49360 Maulevier

 

A SURREPTITIOUS FEAST

 

We found the house in darkness when we arrived back, but with such friendly hosts we felt quite at ease entering the kitchen and making tea, and a small snack from our remaining bread and ham in the ‘fridge.  Now that it was cooler, we felt ravenous – but also, after our long day in the open air, we were yearning to creep upstairs and collapse into that comfortable bed.

 

We can confidently recommend a stay with Yvonne and Stephen in their interesting and beautiful house.  They are very friendly people who go out of their way to give their guests every comfort.

Les Trois Puits: 2, rue de la Civette, 79290 Brion-près-Thouet, France

(A fitting end to our first week of holiday).

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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THOUARS RESISTANCE MUSEUM - Thouars feature image

THOUARS RESISTANCE MUSEUM:

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THIS TIME WE WERE IN LUCK

THOUARS RESISTANCE MUSEUM- Monument
Monument

 

Thirty-six minutes later we were back at Thouars Resistance Museum.  Now well after 2pm, we stood once more outside a locked door; only this time we could see people within.  And on the square a bus was disgorging schoolchildren.

We knocked on the glass, and received shakes of the head from a young lady within; but then the nice girl we’d spoken to that morning spotted us.  She persuaded her boss to let us in.

 

WE HAVE THE EXHIBITION ENTIRELY TO OURSELVES

 

We had the entire exhibition to ourselves, and hand-held speakers gave us   English translation regarding the photos and objects.

 

THE REJOICING OF THE OPRESSORS

 

There was such a lot to see: Some very well presented photographs and written testimony.  Also videos of film taken at the time.  It made us go cold to see jubilant German soldiers shooting inhabitants into the mass grave they’d been forced to dig.  It brought home again how easy it seems to be to ‘turn’ a group of ordinary, decent young men into unthinking, uncaring monsters.  IT CAN HAPPEN ANYWHERE.

This exhibition, and others like it, should be visited widely, and heeded as warnings against history repeating itself. 

 

REJOICINGS AT LIBERATION –

 

Other photographs showed the people mad with joy when the Americans drove in.  But there were also darker pictures, showing the consequent punishments served on those who had collaborated with the enemy.

 

-AND RETRIBUTIONS – ON PROFITEERS AND GOOD-TIME GIRLS 

 

Not least those women who had chosen ‘a good time’ hobnobbing with the German soldiers.  Also the few local profiteers, who had lined their pockets by collaborating with the enemy.

 

TRIBUTES TO THE LOCAL ‘MAQUIS’  

 

There were many written and photographed histories of the little local band of Maquis – mostly very young.  Though not all: some very brave older folk took tremendous risks.  Many were marched off to suffer in concentration camps – or were shot on the spot.  Hard to say which was the worse fate.

 

THOUARS RESISTANCE MUSEUM - The Marie
The Marie

 

THERE ARE STILL A FEW ALIVE TO TELL THEIR TALES

 

Very few Maquis survived the war – but there are actually still a handful of these brave people still living.  Most of these must have been children when they took part in the sabotage adventures.  I wish I could remember the name of one exceptionally daring woman who took a leading part in the local sabotage and even fighting.  This national heroine not only survived the war, but concentration camp and a death march – she lived until 2002.

http://www.crrl.fr/

 

WE SHOP IN A TENT

 

That evening we were surprised to see that the ‘tent-shop’ at the roadside was still open.   We went in and bought water, ham, cheese – and a whole fruit flan, as you see them only in France.  We shared it in the cool of the evening with Yvonne and Stephen, sitting out in the flowery front courtyard.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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IN SEARCH OF TROGLODYTES - The courtyard of Les Caves de la Genevraie

LUNCH IN A TROGLODYTE CAVE

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SAUMUR

 

Leaving Saumur chateau we arrived at the bottom of the town, searching for a shady place by the water. It was just too hot to go up and down streets.  We drove on for a couple of miles, and even crossed over a bridge, but there seemed to be no access to the water meadows.  We just did not know what we were doing….

“Let’s go and look for one of those troglodyte villages,” I suggested.

“They’ll be just like Matera.”

“You don’t know that.  They don’t look the same in that leaflet.”

I hurriedly searched the car for it – but in vain.  Suddenly a road sign appeared with the required brown slots. We drove a couple of miles only to find two places closed.

 

– AND LUNCH

 

“If we don’t look for lunch now, we won’t get any,” said Graham. “You know what it’s like on a Sunday in France.  They don’t ‘do’ Sunday Lunch.”

 

WE FIND A LOVELY GARDEN RESTAURANT

 

Fortunately, we shortly passed a large garden with gazebos sheltering dining tables.  It seemed to be well patronised, so we turned round and Graham assembled my scooter, and while he looked to park our car I whizzed along and found a nice small table in the shade.

 

 

– BUT WE ARE TURNED AWAY

 

A formally dressed waiter approached. “We have no tables free,” he said.

“But this one – and those –“

“We are fully booked.” He was rather abrupt.

By now Graham had caught up with me.  He asked if there were anywhere else nearby where we might get lunch.

“There is a place 2 kilometres that way”.  His tone was dismissive.  “They sell sandwiches,” he added witheringly.

By now some more people were drifting in, including a young girl elaborately dressed in white.  As we turned away we guessed this must be a confirmation celebration.  We appreciated that this large mass meal needed precision.  But need that waiter have been so graceless?  We decided that, reluctantly, we’d better find this ‘sandwich’ place.

 

LUNCH IN TROGLODYTE CAVE - Inside the restaurant
Inside the restaurant

TWO BIRDS WITH ONE STONE:

 

We’re glad we did!  As we descended a winding path and joined a small queue to enter a very narrow doorway we were met by a charming waitress who explained that this was a ‘restaurant in a troglodyte cave’ and that the food was historically accurate to the region, and sourced locally.  Yes, it was served in sandwich form, because that was the tradition.

 

 

STONE AGE SANDWICHES – DELICIOUSLY DIFFERENT

 

WE were guided through candle-lit packed tables set into all the nooks and crannies of a winding cave complex – entirely natural.  ‘Torches’, and stone-shielded lights were set into the walls seemingly randomly.  It was all very cleverly contrived.  We were seated close to a small coal fire; but there was an equally small window open nearby.

“It may be hot outside,” said Graham, “but I expect they need a bit of heating in here.  The temperature will be constant.”

 

THE FOOD WAS CHARMINGLY RUSTIC

 

Waitresses came round with long, linen-covered baskets of hot flattish rolls. They showed us how to split them in order to make our ‘sandwiches’.  The focaccia ‘cobs’ were of rough stone-ground flour. They were both light and deliciously tasty.
Bowls appeared; smallish ones.  There was a very smooth pork pate in one; creamed mushrooms in another.  A third held ‘rillauds’, which turned out to be made from a puree of navy beans – surprisingly tasty.  There was a large bowl of very fresh salad, and then, to our surprise – a small casserole each.

 

LUNCH IN TROGLODYTE CAVE - Breaking Bread
Breaking Bread

 

NO FRENCH TABLE COMPLETE WITHOUT WINE AND WATER

 

A bottle of local red wine was placed next to a carafe of iced water.

 

WE WOLFED DOWN A SURPRISING NUMBER OF ‘STONE-AGE SANDWICHES’

 

Washed down with the wine, and accompanied by the salad, we found we were enjoying our lunch of a surprising number of ‘sandwiches’; for the baskets of bread kept circulating.

 

FESTIVE CAVE – JOLLY FAMILY PARTIES

 

There was such a festive air in the cave; several family parties enjoying the novelty of it all.  There was a dessert, but I cannot remember what it was.  We thoroughly enjoyed the experience, and emerged into dazzling sunlight.

 

LUNCH IN TROGLODYTE CAVE - Parties dining
Parties dining

 

I MAKE A DISCOVERY

IN SEARCH OF TROGLODYTES - A Narrow passageway in Les Caves de la Genevraie
A Narrow passageway in Les Caves de la Genevraie

As usual, my first priority was to find a toilet.  While Graham was eagerly photographing, I went through a small wicket gate, thinking it a likely move.

It did not lead to my Shangri La, but instead I found myself in a large, natural cave with offshoots and little stairways.  It was evidently used for storage.  This haven was entirely natural, and very beautiful and intriguing.  I called Graham to look, but he said that first he must help me up the many steps to the facility I needed, right at the top of the grotto in which we found ourselves.
Duty done, we went down again and both more thoroughly poked around in the restaurant’s hidden storage facility – an utterly unspoilt cave that must have been in use for many centuries.  I thought how I would have adored being there when I was a child. Most probably I would have driven my parents frantic, for I would surely have ‘got lost’ again in climbing that intriguing narrow stairway that disappeared round a bulging outcrop.

“I don’t think we need go searching for any more troglodyte dwellings, do you?” I asked, thinking we had stumbled upon a fair sample. 

Somehow we were in ignorance that for about 9 euros we could have taken a tour of a complete Troglodyte village (about 4 houses, I have learned.) It finishes with a ‘train’ ride. This sounds as especially appealing and useful knowledge for kids.

Les Caves de la Genevraie,13 rue du musée, 49700 Louresse Rochemenier. Phone: +33(0)2 41 59 34 22

(It seems very unlikely that we will ever return to do this, but now YOU know how to find out if you and your family can.

Graham agreed with me.  “No.  This gives a good idea. Time to go back to Thouars and check out the Resistance Museum.”

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Saumur - Veiw from the Chateau

SAUMUR – MEDIEVAL CHATEAU

,

 

Sunday, 6th May:

 

WE EXPLORE

 

Having upon our arrival read numerous leaflets at our disposal, we decided to explore Saumur, making first for the impressive chateau that overlooked the river. I begged that first we visit the Resistance Museum at Thouars, which could be on our way.

 

Saumur - Thouars
Thouars

 

THE FRENCH ‘RESISTANCE’ IN WW2

Saumur - Steep hill up to Thouars
Steep hill up to Thouars

 

In my childhood in WW2 I had been deeply interested and worshipful of all the unbelievably brave people all over Europe who formed Resistance bands to hamper in any way they could the German troops who occupied their towns and villages.  For some reason I had never been able to fit in a visit to any Resistance Museum; this one was close by, and the leaflet said it opened every day from 10am, so Graham readily agreed.

 

THOUARS ‘RESISTANCE’ MUSEUM IS

DIFFICULT TO FIND  

 

The brochure said it was open from 10am.
It was a little difficult to locate in a quiet, garden-type square outside the town, opposite a church. We arrived about 11 am, but were disappointed to find all doors locked.  Eventually a young woman came to answer the doorbell.

 

AND THEN IT WAS NOT OPEN –

 

“I am sorry – until the summer season we only open on Sunday afternoons.  Can you come back after 2pm?”

As we intended a different treat for the next day, which meant driving in the opposite direction, we promised to return, and directed our SatNav to Saumur.

 

SAUMUR – THE CHATEAU DOMINATES

 

There was a series of pathways to the Chateau, but only one way was suitable for my increasingly useful motor scooter.  It led over a bridge to where the strikingly beautiful chateau rose from a promontory high above the town.  Saumur has evolved over the centuries, being built around the lazily winding River Loire below.
The Loire Valley is noted for the number of chateaux to be spotted and visited. Quite often, using by-roads, we found smaller gems that were not open to us, being private homes now.  Evidently the Loire region had always been important historically.

 

Saumur - Saumur Chateau high above the Loire
Saumur Chateau high above the Loire

 

Saumur - Steps up to the Chateau
Steps up to the Chateau

TOO MANY STAIRS:

 

Not all ‘open’ chateaux are as beautiful as this one in Saumur. It was with sadness that I had to accept that I could not manage the many stairs involved to access it and explore inside.  My efforts to persuade Graham to take the tour were rebuffed.  He stoutly refused to leave me for an hour or so – but I can tell you that the leaflet says it is fully furnished inside with the proper kind of antique furniture.

 

Saumur - From a copy of the Duc du Berry in our collection
From a copy of the Duc du Berry in our collection

 

Theobold the Trickster, Count of Blois, laid the first stones in the 10th century.  However, he soon lost it to Fulk III the Black who gave it to the Counts of Anjou.  It later fell into the hands of our very own tempestuous Plantagenets, before being won back for the French throne by Phillip Augustus of France in 1203.

 

THE MARVEL OF VERY EARLY BUILDING:

THIS CHATEAU IS DEPICTED IN DUC DE BERRY’S ‘BOOK OF HOURS’

 

At this time, the four elegant towers were built around the keep, which served as a basis for the current château. In the 14th century, Louis I of Anjou received the château as ‘appanage’ and transformed it into a magnificent princely residence, as illustrated in the famous Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry – a beautifully illustrated medieval Hourly Book of Prayers.

 

A MEDIEVAL MAKEOVER

Saumur - Stable block
Stable block

 

New accommodation was built and the towers and outer walls were raised, complementing the height of the chimneys, gables and belvederes, as you still see it today.

 

LEGACIES ONLY OF THE VERY WEALTHY AND POWERFUL

 

As in our English ‘stately homes’, one has to accept that without the unequal status of The Establishment with great wealth and power, we would not, in these more mundane times, be able to marvel at the incredibly beauty and workmanship they commissioned.

 

SCOOTING AROUND

While Graham took photos (there was a wonderful old stable block) I toured slowly round on my scooter, exploring other likely subjects for him:  After that we sat in the shade of a pavilion and sipped cooling drinks.

 

 

Saumur - Back View from the Chateau
Back View from the Chateau

 

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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