It seems so French – plonking down an open-air museum in the middle of a field; no board, no fee, no attendant. Somebody (perhaps a mason) had cast copies of a plethora of beautiful and often vastly amusing carvings. And perhaps not finding a museum to pay for them (just conjecture) had found a field to place them in.
We walked on raised ‘duck boards’ through two quite long avenues of intriguing bits and pieces of architectural art. Statues, incredibly intricate pillar capitals, slabs and busts – all absolutely attention-grabbing and entertaining. It is discoveries like this that are the rich rewards of DIY touring – because they are so totally unexpected. LUVit!
We have no idea where the originals come from, but some seem incredibly old. Instead of writing a long post about what we found, we felt the images speak for themselves.
Cats HeadHorseman and Child
River Spirit
Fallen Capital
Fallen CapitalRepeat Foliage PatternMadonna and Child
MELLE to ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – A SHORT ROAD OF DISCOVERIES
8th May 2018:
We left Lusignan to rejoin the D150, which presently changed to the D950, stopping for refreshment in Melle, a very attractive town with flowerbeds, and an exuberant row of fountains in the town square. It also had a stately old church in golden stone reminiscent of our English Cotswolds. There was a very fine statue of Christ on his donkey just above the porch.
Fountain at Melle
A TOWN TO LIFT THE SPIRIT
We parked just outside one of the most architecturally pleasing covered market buildings we have seen – even in France, which excels with its ‘Halles’. This one was built entirely of metal and glass. Unfortunately, the photographs of this and the places mentioned above were among several that somehow got ‘wiped’ from Graham’s computer record.
This was a town to lift the spirit – full of colour, which seemed to put a spring in the step of its inhabitants, and even me, as I moved to bag an outside table where we could enjoy citron pressè in the shade of trees.
BRIOUX-SUR-BOUTONNE
BRIOUX-SUR-BOUTONNE: TINY VILLAGE – ONCE IMPORTANT
Our road ran through a village called Brioux-sur-Boutonne, which surely once had been much more important, since we saw a very impressive arch soaring from what must have once been the city wall.
There was also an architecturally pleasing church. As you do in this area of France, we passed many a fine, large house before we found ourselves in empty country again.
White Roses near the entrance to Chateau Dampierre
WE STUMBLE ACROSS A CHATEAU
Very soon we turned off the road to buy a sandwich from a tiny shop. It was on a small square, surrounded by charming, low houses. We passed by a row, all with identical blue shutters, and wreathed in white roses.
At the end of the row we were confronted by two tall gateposts. Beside them was a small, modest lodge. We found that by paying a small fee we could visit the chateau – Chateau Dampierre. It was not large – but attractive in that the ground floor consisted mostly of arches.
– AND ARE MET BY THE OWNERS
We were met by a studious-looking young man. He was very charming. He called ‘Maman!’ and presently Graham’s eyes were rivetted on an EXTREMELY sexy lady, wearing tight leather trousers and a leather jacket. (He remembers this brief encounter from four years ago.) She made us welcome, although this was not one of their ‘open’ days. Her manner was clearly aristocratic…
The Front of Chateau Dampierre Garden Art at Chateau Dampierre
We had to ‘cross the moat’ to reach the front of the chateau. Then we followed the moat around each side, because it still looked as deep and wide as it had ever been. When we arrived at the front ‘Maman’ was waiting to take us up the stairs into their living quarters.
Because you had to ascend steep stairs to explore the interior of the chateau, Graham declined to go in – he said for my sake.
WE ENJOY A PRIVATE TOUR OF THE CHATEAU GARDEN
Instead, after taking money from a couple of other small parties, the son of the house escorted us two around the grounds. He told us a brief history of his home, and drew our attention to many interesting and amusing statues. Some were cunningly hidden amongst a small copse of trees. We ended up at the very quiet ‘end’ of the property. He left us to sit and eat our sandwiches on a bench by the river, cunningly hidden by weeping willow trees.
WE SHARE A JUG OF LEMONADE
When we returned he was waiting with a jug of lemonade to share with us. This small adventure has stuck in our memories, though we had to hunt through our photographs for clues as to its exact location…
Track up to the Chapel
WE ‘FIND’ AN ANCIENT CHAPEL
We left on the D115 because it was an attractive country road. It presently took a 45degree dogleg, becoming the D210. Now it was much narrower, and totally empty. Would this have been one of those very rare occasions when Graham became aware of driving on ‘the wrong side of the road’? i.e. on the left, as we do in Britain.
If so, it went undetected, because presently we spotted a large signpost by the side of the road, pointing up a long, straight avenue of trees – irresistibly cool. The sign told of a very historical chapel at the top. Graham parked up and unloaded my mobility scooter. I rode in comfort while he toiled up the track, camera at the ready. Eventually, we reached a tiny, tiny chapel. (Photos lost…)
ANOTHER PRETTY, FRENCH MARTYR
Trying to make sense of the French notice board there, we divined that this was founded by Saint Radagonde, who in the early 500’s AD had been a Thuringian princess – a barbarian. She was captured by and was married to the Frankish King Clothar 1, son of Clovis 1, whose father was Charlemagne. This queen would regularly wear a hair shirt, and inflict wounds upon herself in order to become a ‘Perfect Christian’. She founded the Abbey of the Holy Cross just outside Poitiers. She is patron saint of several churches in France and England and of Jesus College.
Presently a Frenchman appeared. He told us that this chapel deep in the countryside marked the scene of her martyrdom. He was disappointed that it was closed, because he believed there to be amazing frescoes within, dating right back.
COPIES FROM ANCIENT ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES.
This was certainly a road of surprises. Just a quiet country road – but presently we saw a sort of exhibition set up in a field just off the road. Two avenues of pillars and statues, and various bits and pieces showing beautiful, intricate stone carvings. Clearly, some were from churches and cathedrals – but not all…
Copy of Ancient Stone Masonary
These were dotted around an empty field that we passed. We wondered if these attractive bits and pieces were waiting to be collected and incorporated into some civic building – or a museum or something. It was as well that they were all far too big to stow in our boot with a view to adorning our tiny courtyard back home. The temptation might have proved too much!
Above is just a taster. A short post follows with several more photos Graham took as we walked around, unattended, uncharged, on duckboards.
Meanwhile –
Surprisingly soon we found ourselves driving into the outskirts of St Jean d’Angely.
ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – OUTSKIRTS
A sharp right turn changed our road to the D939, but we presently turned left onto the D150, which had miraculously reappeared. Soon we had reached St Jean d’Angèly, which I had read was notable historically. This was a much larger town. As soon as we parked Graham dived into the car boot for my scooter, which proved invaluable, as there was much to see even right here. This included a large, very grand convent, lauded for guarding the skull of John the Baptist.
The Convent at St Jean d’Angèly
THEY LOOK AFTER PILGRIMS HERE
We stood by the gate, reading a notice in several languages, telling pilgrims for Santiago de Compostella that it would feed them and direct them to free accommodation in the town. We were very touched by this seemingly unique gesture of goodwill.
The Gates to the Convent at St Jean d’Angèly
THE FAMOUS TWIN TOWERS OF ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY
We had gone up the rather long street in order to visit the two towers that dominate the town’s skyline; but when we got there we agreed that in our opinion, despite being the pride of the inhabitants, and however famous, they looked rather ugly.
The twin towers at St Jean d’Angèly
SCOOTER WHIZZING
Altogether, we found so much to see that Graham was walking (and sometimes almost running) as I whizzed along on my scooter. We found we had spent well over an hour in the place. It was time to get back on the road and find our new B&B in nearby Saint Savinien.
We happened upon Lusignan by accident. If I had not spotted the brown road sign, saying ‘Lusignan, medieval city, .25 klm’ we would have missed this treasure of French History.
ON THE WAY TO SAINT SAVINIEN
In the morning, saying our goodbyes to Brion Les Thouet, we were offered sandwiches to take on our journey to our next stop. We thanked Yvonne and explained that we were not going very far at all – in fact, only about two hours down the direct road. (Only of course, it would take us longer as we would instead be meandering on by-roads to have a quick look round interesting places like nearby Loudun. I’d first spotted it on Google images – a fairytale chateau sitting in a lake, still reached by its drawbridge.)
POTTERING IN POITIERS
From there it was a short ride into Poitiers, visited just for a morning once before, and remembered as ‘a place to go back to’.
We did so, but entering from a different direction we found it difficult to orientate ourselves. Also, to find suitable parking anywhere near the centre. There seemed little point in getting my scooter out. Instead, I used my stick and we took a short walk, but found little of interest in that area. It was too early for lunch, so we decided to continue our journey along the country road D611, which would pass la Fontaine de La Comte before rejoining the A10 highway to St Jean d’Angèly.
WE DEVIATE –DISCOVER MEDIEVAL LUSIGNAN
Luckily I spotted a brown sign indicating a short detour to the nearby ‘Mediaeval City of Lusignan’.
‘We have plenty of time,’ I said to Graham, ‘and it must be important for the sign to point down such a narrow road.’
He readily agreed, and we soon found ourselves in a small town full of interest. Not least the ruined castle, high on a nearby hill, and built in the 11th century. It was decided I shouldn’t attempt to reach it on my motor scooter; in any case, Graham argued that he doubted there was enough time. But I was able to read a bit about it. Its most famous resident was Guy de Lusignan, who on the second crusade became King of Jerusalem through marrying Sybilla, daughter of the leprous King Baldwyn.
Many were the adventures Guy had, and there is evidence of a film ‘Kingdom of Heaven’ about him. It is not Ridley Scott’s best – and it would appear to be not altogether historically accurate. In any case, it is worth looking Guy de Lusignan up – I suggest the very short (but accurate) account in Encyclopaedia Britannica (where it states he was born in 1129 – not 1150, as in some accounts).
This castle was the favourite of the Duc de Berry, and you can see it illustrated (as it was in his time) in his famous Book of Hours.
Chateau Lusignan from our copy of the Les Tes Riches Heures – du Duc de Berry
THE TALL TOWERS – SOLE SURVIVORS
Nowadays there is little to be seen of it in this modest small town. The most striking survivors are the considerable bases of what must have once been two very tall towers guarding the gated entrance to the once-proud and important city.
You will find them in the Duc de Berry’s illustrations. Even today they dominate the main square of the town, where we parked. See them in the Feature Photo at the beginning of this post.
ENTER THE OLD CITY OVER THE ‘DRAWBRIDGE’
They still bear two shields of the House of Lusignan, founded in the 9th century. To pass through this ‘gateway’ into the old city you have to walk ‘over the drawbridge’, although the moat is filled in.
There are considerable stretches of the old city wall still intact, and a lot of houses remain as they were in the 14th century – and people still live in them. There is a beautiful roofed Market Place in the centre of the old town, close to the church.
Exterior of MarketInterior of MarketChurch of Notre Dame & Saint Junien
THE ANCIENT CHURCH IN THE OLD CITY OF LUSIGNAN
The ancient church is quite small, and rather plain now, though the very tall pillars and the vaulted roof give it dignity. I found a few interesting plaques. Unable to read French, I struggled to find the names they referred to. Topping some lower pillars were some amusing, if rather primitive depictions of mythical animals. I particularly admired the semicircle of largely unadorned Romanesque arches and pillars that guarded the tiny stone altar. They contained tall, stained-glass windows to illuminate it.
COULD THIS BE THE TOMB OF GUY DE LUSIGNAN?
There was a crumbling effigy on a heavy stone sarcophagus lid; it intrigued me, as it stood in front of a side-chapel dominated by an arrangement of crossed swords – but there was no explanation.
Church of Notre Dame & Saint Junien Doorway – Detail
I AM ESCORTED ROUND
An organist had come in and was practising on a small instrument, so I tiptoed around. Presently he climbed down from his stool, and escorted me all over the church. This kind gentleman explained all items of interest, like the place reserved for the minister and his servants to sit – and that for the President.
FINE STATUES – AND THE ‘BESTIARY’
There were a few statues – one was of St Anthony of Padua. The finest was a wooden pieta; the expression on Mary’s face was haunting. My voluntary guide was also anxious to show me the ‘bestiary’; a collection of carvings facing the side door.
Church of Notre Dame & Saint Junien Doorway
MANIPULATING MELUSINE
Carving of Melusine at Lusignan Photo by Jacques Mossot
As well as these twisting, primitive, yet strangely sophisticated carvings of allegorical animals, he was keen for me to see their ‘Melusine’. She is traditionally a two-tailed mermaid, but in this case resembled an air sprite, sailing down from her pillar with her mouth wide open. She is said to still fly around the castle wailing whenever a lord or king is about to die – (remember the King of Jerusalem.)
MELUSINE GOT AROUND: FRANCE, ENGLANDCZECHOSLOVAKIA
This is because this well-known creature of legend – half woman, half fish – was said to have founded the two Angevin families. (The ancestors of our English Henry11 and his famously feisty queen -Eleanor of Aquitaine, and their turbulent sons. Were their daughters also turbulent?)
Melusine was also held responsible for this Lusignan dynasty – set in the lands of said Eleanor. Yes: – we were standing in Aquitaine.
LUSIGNAN’S GREAT TREASURE –WOOD TELLS IT’S STORY
My kind guide’s English was faultless. He left me just before I reached what rivetted me – a quite large panel of sculpted wood. It showed the town as it had been in mediaeval times; just before a battle. The castle in the background was intact, of course, and quite impressive. I readily recognised some of the houses that still stand just behind a section of the city wall.
The figure of a knight loomed large just above the centre of the picture – presumably Guy de Lusignan. A few smaller figures were dotted here and there. I cannot find out enough about it.
Carved wooden Plaque
STUDYING THE STORY OF LUSIGNAN IN CARVING
Now I was impatient for Graham to find me. An expert conservationist of all things wooden, I knew he would love this panel with its gleaming patina of centuries.
When he arrived he was full of excitement at having found the medieval covered market hall. The intricate roof timbers had particularly charmed him, and he had taken several photographs. Now he spent a long time admiring and studying the ancient carved wood panel; and of course, took some photographs of that.
I really hope that I can return to Lusignan when we are less hurried; it needs a little time to learn all of the rich history, and the meanings in the symbolism found all over the place there.
Thirty-six minutes later we were back at Thouars Resistance Museum. Now well after 2pm, we stood once more outside a locked door; only this time we could see people within. And on the square a bus was disgorging schoolchildren.
We knocked on the glass, and received shakes of the head from a young lady within; but then the nice girl we’d spoken to that morning spotted us. She persuaded her boss to let us in.
WE HAVE THE EXHIBITION ENTIRELY TO OURSELVES
We had the entire exhibition to ourselves, and hand-held speakers gave us English translation regarding the photos and objects.
THE REJOICING OF THE OPRESSORS
There was such a lot to see: Some very well presented photographs and written testimony. Also videos of film taken at the time. It made us go cold to see jubilant German soldiers shooting inhabitants into the mass grave they’d been forced to dig. It brought home again how easy it seems to be to ‘turn’ a group of ordinary, decent young men into unthinking, uncaring monsters. IT CAN HAPPEN ANYWHERE.
This exhibition, and others like it, should be visited widely, and heeded as warnings against history repeating itself.
REJOICINGS AT LIBERATION –
Other photographs showed the people mad with joy when the Americans drove in. But there were also darker pictures, showing the consequent punishments served on those who had collaborated with the enemy.
-AND RETRIBUTIONS – ON PROFITEERS AND GOOD-TIME GIRLS
Not least those women who had chosen ‘a good time’ hobnobbing with the German soldiers. Also the few local profiteers, who had lined their pockets by collaborating with the enemy.
TRIBUTES TO THE LOCAL ‘MAQUIS’
There were many written and photographed histories of the little local band of Maquis – mostly very young. Though not all: some very brave older folk took tremendous risks. Many were marched off to suffer in concentration camps – or were shot on the spot. Hard to say which was the worse fate.
The Marie
THERE ARE STILL A FEW ALIVE TO TELL THEIR TALES
Very few Maquis survived the war – but there are actually still a handful of these brave people still living. Most of these must have been children when they took part in the sabotage adventures. I wish I could remember the name of one exceptionally daring woman who took a leading part in the local sabotage and even fighting. This national heroine not only survived the war, but concentration camp and a death march – she lived until 2002.
That evening we were surprised to see that the ‘tent-shop’ at the roadside was still open. We went in and bought water, ham, cheese – and a whole fruit flan, as you see them only in France. We shared it in the cool of the evening with Yvonne and Stephen, sitting out in the flowery front courtyard.
Loire Valley is justly famous for its Chateaux, wine, pretty villages and lovely scenery. Unfortunately Graham lost a lot of photos of this trip when he downloaded them and his computer crashed. This area was among them.
BLOIS RIVER ROAD
After our meal we decided to take a little longer, and use the AD152, which snaked alongside the River Loire. However, because we wanted to avoid spending all that time going back to Ligny, we instead we took the D922, which turned into the D917 to Yvoy-le-Marron. This proved to be a very small, but very pretty old village, with the tiniest ‘Mairie’ we had ever seen. Soon we passed at least two grand chateaux by a river. This route took us through some nice scenery and a few more villages until we reached La Ferte-St-Cyr, with its two bridges – the lovely, many-arched old one, leading from the ‘old town’, and a magnificent new one, where the arches soared high above the road.. We turned onto the road to Cruoy-sur-Cosson, which joined the river road along the Loire until we shortly found ourselves looking over to Blois, on the other side of the river.
ON THE LOIRE IS BLOIS – A NAME FROM ENGLISH HISTORY LESSONS
Now Blois was a name I’d often encountered reading the complicated interwoven histories of England and France. The expectation was of a grand city, but looking over, all we could see was what appeared to be a rather large, very grey and huddled town dominated by an enormous cathedral.
GREY BLOIS DID NOT TEMPT US
This edifice is probably very grand, and certainly important historically. At that time in the afternoon it did not tempt us to go on to the bridge and then double back to explore it. No doubt we have sadly misjudged Blois – but there is only so much deviating we were prepared to do in that one day. We chose rather to go off road to pass through Chinon, on another river – the Vienne, and visited all too briefly just once – a long time ago.
CHINON – RICHARD WOZ ERE:
Chinon bears definite marks of the Plantagenets – particularly Richard the Lionheart, who in my schooldays had been given a much better press than he deserved, as he was only ever six months in England. Nevertheless, he was presented to us as a romantic figure!
CHINON CASTLE AS IN THE FILM ‘THE LION IN WINTER’
Also, I hoped to establish whether or not the castle depicted in one of my favourite films – ‘The Lion in Winter,’ was authentic, and if it still survived intact. Happily, it has – although we did not see it on this occasion, as time was pressing. We promised ourselves to return the next day, but as so often during holidays we never did. It still remains to be discovered by us…
The plot of the film relayed the squabbles when Henry11 released his imprisoned wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine to join him and their three remaining sons – Richard, Geoffrey and John, for Christmas celebrations. The hidden agenda was to discuss the division of lands amongst them, and settle on Henry’s successor; who, of course, was Richard. They were a feisty family.
AZAY-LE-RIDEAU – GOOD SMALL HOTEL – CHARMING LITTLE TOWN
Azay-le-Rideau
Back on the road we experienced some deja-vu as our road ran straight through Azay-le-Rideau, and glancing up a side street I saw, as expected, the sign of the little hotel where we’d stayed two years before. I tried to alert Graham, but he quickly snapped, “I’m too busy driving to look. What of it?” After all these years I should have known better than to try and distract him.
BRION-PRÈS-THOUET – WE ARRIVE TO A WARM WELCOME:
Evening glow over rape seed fields
We finally arrived at our destination; Brion-près-Thouet, just as the sun had set. We searched in vain for the street with our B&B, even Miss SatNav was stumped. After asking for help we were given minute instructions by a genial couple out for a stroll. Our ‘street’ was more of a short alley between two buildings – one of which had clearly been empty for years.
Hidden to one side we spotted a pretty little gate in the stone hedge. It led almost straight onto an attractive small house – or large cottage. The frontage was nicely paved and flowers were everywhere.
BRION-PRÈS-THOUET – GLAMOUR QUEEN IN RURAL FRANCE
I rang the bell. The door flew open, held by an exceptionally pretty woman. Though clearly a retiree, she exuded glamour. I wondered if she had been on the stage or in films.
“Yvonne?” I enquired, and to my surprise her assent came in English.
Now, over the years I have learned to book with the natives of any country I am in. British B&B hosts abroad tend, on the whole, to be as greedy as at home; overcharging and often offering mean breakfasts.
Not so here: Yvonne gave the lie to all that.
BRION-PRÈS-THOUET – A REAL ENGLISH ‘CUPPA’
She immediately offered good English tea and little cakes, after which she took us up to one of the two charming guest bedrooms. Both were tastefully decorated in period style, with some very nice ornaments.
Stephen, her husband is a very genial and interesting man. After a distinguished career in South Africa he became Mayor of Lambeth – and in Millenium year, too…
AN UNAVOIDABLE FEATURE:
Yvonne was very apologetic that we had to descend a winding staircase to use the guest shower room, placed at the end of the large and comfortable guest sitting room.
SUPER SHOWER ROOM – LUXURIOUS BEAUTY PRODUCTS
A very attractive and well-designed facility, the shower stall was full of top-of-the range products for body and hair. I delighted in using them all.
STAIRCASE – ELEGANT AND SAFE
The staircase had a very good, sturdy though beautiful banister rail. We would be undisturbed, and hopefully not disturb others, when we needed to use the loo in the night. Really – everything had been thought of to provide for the comfort of their guests, even to those little touches of luxury.
BRION-PRÈS-THOUET – MORE B&B HOSTS BECOME FRIENDS
We soon became friends with these kindly and affable hosts. We certainly hope to return if my health allows. We can confidently recommend – Le Trois Puits, 2 Rue de la Civette, 79290 Brion-près-Thouet, France.
Le Pont De Taizon – 13th century
THE HISTORICAL BRIDGE AT TAIZON.
The Mill at Le Pont De Taizon
A few miles from Brion-pres-Thouet is the bridge pictured above. It was built in the 13th century to span the river Thouet and was a “tithe” bridge. German troops partially destroyed it in August 1944. It was restored in 1966 but not to carry traffic. It is characteristic of the area, and the largest medieval bridge preserved in Thouarsais: Registered in the supplementary inventory of Historical Monuments since 1943. Close to this is an old mill.
So leaving Orleans, we took the D15 road; a country route new to us. We had just reached a rather pretty village: (Ligny le Ribault, I later discovered.) Soon we reached an ancient barn converted to an eating place. It was open for lunch. I got out of the car to look at the menu – and then noticed a road sign pointing to La Ferte St Aubin – ll kilometres. (Google maps says 13.5 kilometres – but watch this space…)
Ducks in the moat
JUST 11 KILOMETRES FROM BISTRO HEAVEN
Now we had fond memories of an exceptionally good lunch we had enjoyed on our 2015 tour of France. One day we had reached La Ferte St Aubin on our way from Rheims to Bourges. We had spent time admiring the local chateau, imposing for such a small village, and trying to attract the ducks and swans in the moat.
Travelling on through the village, we had happened upon a small bistro. Luckily, it was then open on a Sunday, too. (Rare in rural France.)
Swans in the moat
LA FERTE ST AUBIN – FINE GOURMET MEALS
IN A MODEST BISTRO
We had there enjoyed one of the very best meals of that holiday, following the recommendation of one of the French clients sitting at the next table on the veranda.
When today I pointed out the sign to Graham he said ‘Let’s go there. 11 Kilometres shouldn’t take too long. We can still catch lunch’.
FRENCH EQUIVALENT OF THE ENGLISH ‘COUNTRY MILE’
The country road (D61) to get across to the A10 was just the same as country roads in England – seemingly endless. Though it was not without interest.
ON THE D61 – AN EYE-CATCHING RARITY
Quite soon we stopped to admire an attractive and at first, puzzling cluster of buildings. Upon googling them later, they proved to be, of all things, a brickworks, with a most elegant, and now rare, kiln…
La Ferte St Aubin – Old Brick Kiln at Ligny le Ribault
ARE ALL COUNTRY ROADS THIS SLOW?
After about 40 minutes slow driving we at last ended up in Ferte St Aubin and Graham ignored my memories of the bistro being next to the attractive chateau – now a hospital… (See feature image) There was no time to stop and admire the chateau, or the ducks and swans – not if we were going to catch the place open for lunch.
‘It’s right down the bottom of the village’ he insisted – and he was right, of course! We found a fair parked where we had previously left our car, and had to traverse by foot the crowded fairground in order to cross the road to the attractive bistro we remembered so well. It did not disappoint.
Au Bistrot Gourmand
A ‘WHITE VAN PLACE?’
‘It must be a white-van place’ said Graham. After at least four visits to France we had learned to look out for “eateries” that at lunchtime were surrounded by white vans.
(It seems that French builders, electricians and suchlike have vouchers for meals at a set of venues.) We have consistently found such places to rate from good to truly excellent! Graham based his conclusion on the evidence of a menu offering a very affordable set meal of three courses – three choices of each – and sure enough, our table was set with the inimical iced water and wine that come as a matter of course with such meals. We were not sorry to have made the switch from the other, ‘newer’ road. This really is an excellent place.
The bar at Au Bistrot Gourmand
Au Bistrot Gourmand Menu
Au Bistrot Gourmet, La Ferte Saint-Aubin.
We were lucky to find an empty table outside, under the awning. Tall trellis and bushes in tubs shielded us from the dust and bustle of the street.
The same cheerful chap we remembered from two years before came and took our order, and was happy to chat with us in excellent English while he awaited the summons from the kitchen. He said he remembered us.
INCREASED BY 2 EUROS IN 2 YEARS – 3 COURSES NOW €14
We settled for the three-course lunch; on the internet we noticed later that they were charging 14 euros in 2020 – up by 2 euros from our previous visits in 2016 and 2018, and worth every cent… (In 2018 we reckon that with the generous exchange rate we got from Covent Garden FX, the whole 3 courses for the two of us cost about £18).
WE STUFF OURSELVES WITH FRENCH COUNTRY FOOD
Greedily we worked our way through all three courses. There certainly would be no need to hunt for a restaurant that evening. As we rose to move off our waiter came to shake us by the hand.
“We see you next year, Monsieur,” he said. Well, that would be nice. We’ll have to wait and see…But do try it if you are in the area. Brilliant – Absolute!
Within 40 minutes we were entering Italy, though we found no border and no guards to check our passports. You would hardly notice the tiny sign tacked onto the rock walls of the mountain tunnel: It read simply ‘Italy’ above the red, white and green flag. (That’s the EU for you! A world without borders would be a nice thing to aim for.)
One of the many colonnades in NovaraThis tower could be seen miles away – up close it was very impressive
We were taking a route to revisit Novara, though I now see that Rivoliwas right on our road. Since 2016 I have learned that Rivoliis a ‘Must – see’ place. We missed – but you need not. Novarais a mainly modern town, but beautiful, with spacious elegant streets and squares paved in cream marble and stone tiles – even the roadways. As we arrived a sudden cloudburst sent us scurrying from our car to the shelter of the gracefully colonnaded streets, which we followed towards our destination.
This gilded statue seemed to hover in the sunlight
We did not, sadly, this time find the square with the many fountains, but we did visit the beautiful Basilica di San Gaudenzio . It has an especially impressive four-tiered cupola by the famed architect Antonelli. (It is visible for miles).
A FINE BUILDING – GOOD INFO
It is a fine building with good info:
The interior, apart from its side chapels (most famous being those of The Guardian Angel, with beautiful frescoes – and another to The Good Death), is relatively empty compared to other Italian church interiors. But the pillars are attractive – painted in designs reminiscent of the contemporary Books of Hours. The inlaid marble floor is beautiful, too. Most striking is the almost hidden gold figure of a saint in flight. He is holding a banner. I believe him to be San Salvatore.
Other Special sights in Novara –I P Broletto’s arcaded building; the Cathedral of Santa Martia Asssienta (huge, impressive, amazing statues; Casa Bossi (a lovely Romanesque building – hidden gem with a great past).
NOT ENOUGH TIME IN THIS CHARMING CITY
As usual, we could not spend enough time in this charming city on this, our third visit. We had to find the E64 to Presezzo The total drive from Embrun takes 5 hrs; but mainly we suffered from the intense heat, since our car’s air-conditioning had been wrecked by a careless mechanic during the pre-holiday checkup– and not worth replacing in a 2005 vehicle.
Lap of Luxury.
DAY 10: 11th & 12th September:
PRESEZZO – FIRST OVERNIGHT STOP IN ITALY
This is where we really lucked in. I don’t think we could have afforded this hotel while booking a three-month tour – our one and only. Luckily it came up on Booking.com with a generous special offer, and so we were able to enjoy staying in the lap of luxury for two nights.
A most strikingly beautiful conversion from a former ancient farm, we enjoyed everything about our stay.
BATHROOM WORTHY OF A POEM
Our semicircular ivory and malachite-tiled bathroom was worthy of a poem. The truly spacious bedroom had a curtained sitting area with couch, full sized TV, large refrigerator, and ample cupboards. I threw myself down on the enormous bed, exhausted from journeying (why is sitting in a car passenger seat so exhausting, I wonder?).
We enjoyed having drinks brought to us on the terrace, and walking through the many varied rooms – each with a different decor. Modern sculptures and paintings were successfully blended with antique furniture in many of the dining rooms – all uniquely different. There was an elegant small indoor bar, where you could ‘dive’ down steps through a cave entrance to find the gym and indoor swimming pool (there were smaller versions of both outside in the grounds). This place was such heaven that we did not explore the area far.
Settecento Hotel Via Milano, 3, 24030 Presezzo, Italy. (Our photos did not come out well, so please look it up for yourselves if interested).
Because of the heat we did not go to Bergamo on our free day in Presezzo, as planned.
The route we took on our day drip to Lago Isleo
Lazing by a Lovely Lake.
Instead, we visited the very small LagoIseo – and took a boat to the island in the middle. It was beautiful, though we soon got tired of walking – it was so hot. So we went back to the gelato by the quay and had Italian ice creams, then caught the little boat back to make use of the great facilities in our hotel for a welcome rest. I would LOVE to go back to both the lake and hotel. Here are some photos:
We would love some Ice Cream
All the Italian Northern lakesare beautiful – with anisland and a castle on top
The cypress that grow in the lake are very special
We sped along the toll road to Nemours, our next night’s destination. We stopped at Reims for Graham to take some more photos of the particularly good depiction in bronze of Joan of Arc. She looks so very young and small to be managing her rearing horse outside the cathedral.
Le-Grand-Cafe-Reims with ‘Belle Epoch’ interior – all mirrors and gilt and red velvet seats.
We also found our way back to the wonderful Le Grand Café. We had previously fallen in love with this famous landmark. It has retained its ‘Belle Epoch’ interior – all mirrors and gilt and red velvet seats. This time, because of cold, wet weather, we eschewed the so-French tables outside under the large umbrellas. In the plush interior we still had the waiters with their long black aprons scurrying to fulfil our every wish. I felt on that dismal day that their speciality, the moules, wonderful and plentiful though they always are, were just not filling enough. So I had a small, thick steak instead. It came rare, just as I like it, with a wonderful sauce.
Diners sitting out at Le Grand Cafe-Reims
Then it was back on the road. To our eyes, we had found, so far, the top half of France to be rather flat and uninteresting. (Unless you want to visit the graveyards, or deviate to some historic towns).
I’m sure there are plenty more seasoned travellers to defend Normandy and Picardy, who can and probably will show much evidence to prove us wrong.
Try and Take this Road-
We took the A4 and A5 (avoiding the Paris ring road) to a place I’d located when researching with maps and ‘images’ the various possible routes for our trip.
MORET-SUR-LOING – EXCEPTIONALLY ATTRACTIVE
Moret-sur-Loing is a very beautiful small town, with a medieval arched gatehouse astride the bridge. In the past, strangers wanting to enter would be checked (and probably charged.) Off to the left was a charming little turreted house, reached by a small wooden bridge over a mini-weir – perhaps a mill-race. (See feature picture – me crossing bridge.)
The medieval town of Moret-sur-Loing was on our routeDay 3-4 – Google map of our Route
We walked along one bank of the wide river and admired the ancient, half-timbered houses, more elaborate in their designs than most in England. Graham crossed over to the other side to take good pictures of them. Also the cob-and timber ‘offshoot’ dwelling that appeared as if hooked over the side of the bridge. It is visible in our picture above. As is usual in France, the noble old bridge was bedecked with flowers.
Extra Expense -Don’t be Caught Out-
We would love to see more of this place, but we got in our car and drove the 14km on A6 to where I’d booked a room in the Kyriad Hotel – Nemours. It was very difficult to find this hotel, even using Miss SatNav. When we did finally locate it we had to enter a toll road not on our route. In the morning those few yards cost us €6.60; so not such a good deal, after all! Though very comfortable, it was not as nice as staying in a private home, because the staff were impersonal. We declined paying €10 each for breakfast, knowing we could pick up good stuff at a boulangerie along our road.
If you are using that toll road, then it’s a clean, comfy overnight stop.
Azay-le-Rideau was where we had booked at a very small hotel for our next nights stay ; in itself a very modest town off the main road to Tours. Leaving St Emilion we took the D674 road to Angouleme
EN-ROUTE – LA ROCHE CHALAIS
En route, we stoppped off for a coffee and a quick bite for breakfast at La Roche-Chalais. Early Sunday morning found a cafe open close to the church on the high ground. It overlooked the river Dronne, which from our viewpoint appeared quite wide. A bridge with an impressive, single arching span crossed it.
ANGOULEME – the original home of the Plantagenets.
(Disappointingly, when we reached Angouleme we saw no trace of that fierce medieval Royal Family in both France and England. Athough we passed a castle it did not appear to be open to the public.)
We stopped for an hour or so, seeking lunch. Our road dictated us winding up and up, past a lovely covered market. We looked in vain for somewhere to park nearby, even turning back and driving in a loop.
Carrying on up the narrow hill we finally found a large open ‘Place’ surrounded by grand civic buildings. We were fortunate to park in a tiny side street, after first checking with a local lady. I noticed a sign pointing to The Ramparts, so urged Graham to just walk round the corner to see.
Angouleme – Avenue des Maréchaux
ANGOULEME – A GRAND PROMENADE – ANDA GREAT VIEW
We found ourselves in a wide street bordered on one side by railings. Looking over, you could see far below to a street of grand houses. A little further on was a large monument, with people seated on and near it, eating sandwiches.
Thinking of our time, Graham went back and fetched the remains of our good boulangerie breakfast and bottled water. We enjoyed this looking out over a wide view of a green park and golf course a couple of miles off to our left. The streets of the town wound ever down on our right, with a river a mile or two off. It was very dramatic, and pleasant in the November sun.
AngoulemeAngouleme – Rempart Desaix
SANDWICHES WITH 5TH PRESIDENT OF FRANCE
We found we were sitting beneath the statue of politician and mathematician Lazare Carnot, who was fifth President of France. (I hope I’ve remembered that aright. He was the 5thsomething, anyway).
Carnot Statue Angouleme
AZAY-LE-RIDEAU – THERE’S A SMALL HOTEL…
Not long afterwards we were crossing that river on our way to the small town of Azay-le-Rideau, near Tours.
After a little riding round we found our small hotel, tucked away in a side street.
Hotel Val de Loire
The Hotel Val-de-Loire is a well-run hostelry, perhaps slightly impersonal at the end of The
Season; (we arrived 27th November). That we could understand. However, our ensuite was bright and spotless. Nothing was neglected for our comfort. The extra pillows I had requested were in place, and the reading lamps worked.
Room Tip: As it stands back from a side street, all rooms are quiet.
WHEN EATING OUT – NEVER JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS COVER
It was a pity that the hotel dining room was closed. We were told that it being a Sunday there would be only one eating-place open in the town – the Grill in the square. From the outside it did not impress. When we entered we were dismayed to see games machines downstairs. And the dining room was not thrilling – checked tablecloths, candles in bottles – a time warp.
GOOD SERVICE – THANKS TO DEPARDIEU LOOK-ALIKE
The young waitress totally ignored us, even though only one table was occupied. That is – until a family group came in. We were treated to a big, friendly grin from a younger version of Gerard Depardieu. This genial young local man maybe said something, because after that we had good service and a truly great meal at a very fair price.
A GREAT MEAL – SIZZLING STONES
Graham, in particular, was thrilled by his slivers of raw pork to sizzle on a hot stone. It was accompanied by a nice, fresh salad and a little tub full of those excellent ‘frite’ only the French seem to come up with! I cannot remember my meal; only that it was also very tasty.
So – not our chosen venue, but what a GREAT meal we ended up with!
AZAY-le-RIDEAU – TURN ASIDE FOR THIS TOWN AND VISIT ITS CHATEAU
Azay-le-Rideau is an attractive small town, with interesting little shops. The chateau is also exceptional we have learned – though we had no time to visit it. If this town is on your route, do try staying there.
Chateau-Azay-le -Rideau
Azay-le-Rideau
AZAY-LE-RIDEAU’S CHARMING LITTLE SHOPS
We bought some of the local goodies the next day, mostly from a small shop with two round tables, where we enjoyed Assam tea (made properly) and scrumptious cakes, willingly paying the somewhat high price. We also bought some of Madame’s expensive home made local biscuits. They looked wonderfully crisp and flaky, but proved to break up in your hand and taste disconcertingly like Weetabix. We had to scoff them all in the car before they totally disintegrated!
As we resumed our journey the sky darkened and presently we were in the midst of a storm. It slowed the driving, but diminished when we reached Narbonne. The town was on my list of places to stop and explore. We were both a bit tired, and so we went into the town and parked up by an ancient church, which had been turned into an art gallery. The girl on the desk was most unhelpful about letting me use their toilet, and so Graham and I hurried along to where we could see a tall tower, which must mark the centre.
The central Canal
BUT FIRST – A PROPER CUPPA
Presently we found ourselves beside a broad canal, and we followed it to the first café that presented itself. Miraculously, they served properly made English tea (the cuppa, that is). What a treat! We sank down onto a pavement chair and watched the comings and goings.
NARBONNE – PAST GLORIES – THE BELLE EPOQUE
We were admiring the building opposite; a rather baroque, large square place of several storeys. Carved in relief all along the top was information that this was an Emporium for Ladies A La Mode (as far as we could make out the French). Not any more. It looked largely empty, with several shabby little shops created out of the grand ground floor entrances. (We later realised that we were facing one of the sides of this once-imposing building).
The Old Department Store Building
NARBONNE HAS MANY FANCY LITTLE SHOPS
When we left we turned into a sort of passage behind the main street. It was full of intriguing little shops, and led out into another, much larger square. It had a sort of oblong trough in the centre, full of water. Perhaps the base for another fountain?
In front of that was the still attractive main frontage of what is now known as the ‘Monoprix Building’. Easy to locate, but such a comedown from its past grandeur.
WE LOVE HOW THE FRENCH DECORATE THEIR STREETS
The Ancient Fountain
Before us was that previously glimpsed tall tower. It was already decorated for Christmas. Like a giant gift parcel, it was tied up in broad red ribbon, with a neat bow in the centre.
‘Typical French wit,’ chuckled Graham appreciatively. We love French wit, which shows everywhere; in window displays and much street art. Even, as here, on buildings themselves.
This tower is part of what remains of the old castle. Attached buildings are beautiful, even in Civic use. (English Councils, take note!)
A BEAUTIFUL FOUNTAIN – ON NARBONNE HOTEL DE VILLE (town hall)
Still part of the castle complex, the town hall façade had been cleaned to show the attractive pinkish stone. Next to this beautiful fountain was a medieval, carved doorway. We walked in, admiring the tessellated floor, and the statues and other features in the round (or octagonal?) hall or atrium. Various offices led off, so we walked on. Through another arched doorway we found ourselves in a small, enclosed courtyard, with yet another eye-catching floor.
Gargoyle
NARBONNE – PALAIS DE ARCHEVEQUES
Had we more time, and the ability to read French, we would have loved to spend time looking at the town’s archives. Various illustrated displays showed a bronze statue of Romulus and Remus. We managed to track the original down in
The Museum of Arts and History of Narbonne. This was hidden in yet another inner courtyard where fascinating gargoyles were being restored.
After walking around this interesting town, we made our way back through a sort of ‘tunnel’ of yet more interesting little shops.
WOULD THIS BE ‘THE MISTRAL’?
A sudden high wind followed by driving rain caused us to hurry back to our car, which was just as well, because soon all was darkness and Graham had to negotiate narrow country roads in a raging storm.
