Rouen cathedral is world famous. Everyone who passes through Rouen makes sure to at least see its very elaborate frontage, painted so many times by the well-known and loved Impressionist Claude Monet. We decided that such a World Heritage sight deserves not just a post all to itself – but the First Mention in Rouen…
ROUEN CATHEDRAL DESERVES FIRST MENTION:
The details of our stay in Rouen, like our hotel and other discoveries, are described in the post following. So I have jumped forward to our first port of call on our first morning in this celebrated historical city.
Truly awe-inspiring Arches
MAGNIFICENT ROUEN CATHEDRAL – PHOTO-SHOTS
After Graham had taken numerous photos of the well-known Cathedral frontage, he turned his attention to buildings in the immediate area.
Sadly, the very lovely old apothecary’s building (now the Tourist Information Centre) did not make a good photograph at all – its best features did not show up when we finally had a good look back home.
MAGNIFICENT ROUEN CATHEDRAL’S VAST INTERIOR
To my secret relief, we finally entered through a side door into the echoing cathedral. So long and high are the aisles, that one is almost overwhelmed by the plethora of soaring arches – impossibly high. Craning my neck, I could see that each supported a vaulted roof, and collectively they fronted many a side-chapel.
What really impressed me were the lines of saints along some of the walls (see Feature Photo). They were all rescued from the exterior (probably the so-elaborate front entrance, which is impossible to take in all at once). Some were very worn indeed, while others were easily recognisable – certainly by Catholics, whom I imagine will know their canon of saints quite well by the symbols they carry.
ROUEN CATHEDRAL RETAINS MUCH OLD STAINED GLASS
One of the Many Stained Glass Windows
Oriel Window
There were a few very old stained glass windows, and one lovely Rose Window. What impressed us both were the high, mainly blue windows of great intricacy that formed a semi-circle behind the freestanding altar at the far end from the main door.
Stone Staircase
WE FIND ROUEN CATHEDRAL’S ‘WOW’ FEATURE:
But even they were superseded when, moving to leave by the front entrance, we glanced down a side aisle towards the reredos and both let out an ‘Ooohhh’. We simultaneously spotted a most delicate small stairway of stone lace. It seems almost unique in its intricacy, and pretty coloured stone. Graham took many photographs of this early masterpiece.
Meanwhile, we three carried on down to Otranto, where we had booked two nights with Lucio the hunter. He who, you may remember, we had met when we took Lolly to eat at Peppino’s. (Also, from the information on Lucio’s business card, our new host was quite big in banking.)
We had a very quick look around the town, which was just as well, because we had difficulty in finding the right road for Lucio’s farmhouse. Eventually Graham ‘phoned him for directions, and we found him waiting for us on the ‘main road’ where he hopped into our car to ‘talk us’ to our destination.
The ‘farmhouse’ was quite small, but had a nice, covered area for outside living.
We were taken inside and shown to our small but attractive bedrooms, both en-suite, to refresh ourselves and change for dinner. Afterwards, we relaxed in the comfortable lounge with aperitifs. The art on the walls (all depicting a hunting interest,) and the large, solid furnishings, declared that this was clearly a man’s home.
A MEMORABLE MEAL
I must tell you of the memorable meal we all enjoyed.
Lucio’s girl friend was there when we arrived, and that evening cooked some very good pasta with lamb and porcini; but his friends brought the piece-de-la-resistance.
They arrived bearing an enormous dish of delicately cooked seafood, caught by them that very afternoon. We had brought wine; almost sufficient for that company – but enough wine is never a problem in Italy. Everyone spoke English, and that meal was very convivial, with lots of laughter. We have learned that Italian and English people have a similar sense of humour.
MORE SMALL TOWN APPEAL – A MOORISH PALACE BY THE SEA
The once hotel-Mosque
The next morning we found Vivien and Lucio busy weeding in his garden. After we had managed to extract her and have a quick breakfast, we took a trip down the coast. There was something special we wanted to show Vivien. At the small, smart resort of Santa Cesaria Termewe stopped to look at a fabulous hotel on the edge of a cliff, which had been built to resemble a beautiful mosque, or Moorish palace.
When Graham and I first spotted it in 2011 you could see it from further up the coast. On first sighting it was gobsmackingly strange and beautiful, painted in various exotic colours. To our dismay, this time we found that the restoration work had ceased and vandals had helped to wreck it. The lovely colours were all faded. We could have cried, and the surprising impact we’d planned for Vivien was diminished. However, we bought lovely fresh figs and other fruit from a street vendor.
SMALL TOWN APPEAL – IS CASTRO APULIA’S SMALLEST RESORT?
Castro restaurant
A bit further down the road we spotted an attractive bar, just outside the old city wall. The courtyard seating, set within shrubs, had a good view of the water gently lapping the rocks. The enclosure was almost full of happily chatting people, and there were good smells drifting into our car.
‘Time for lunch’, I think’, said Graham, and by mutual agreement we all tumbled out .
We found a table, and upon studying the menu, Vivien gave a cry of delight. ‘They have a great variety of tapas,’ she announced.
That sounded perfect. Three choices each, and we’d all share.
Well – I still remember that lunch as a mini-feast. We were all quite stuffed by the time all the little dishes were emptied.
It was agreed that we could all do with a walk. Of course, I was a bit slow, and tired first, so I took the car keys and left the others to quicken their pace to take them round a bit further. It did not take them long to circumnavigate the whole huddle of dwellings.
Meeting back at the car we discussed what to do next. Vivien said she’d welcome a really good look round Otranto. Graham and I had already previously driven down this coast, so we readily agreed.
Old-defensive-tower
‘Can we stop and look at one of those strange stone towers on the edge of the cliffs?’ I asked. I had been intrigued with them the first time we’d seen them in 2011, and again, that day, on the way down.
Returning up the coast, the sun shining hotly again, we turned off the road onto a rocky outcrop which jutted into the sea. While Graham and Vivien climbed up to look at one of the unique stone towers which line that part of the coast, I returned to the rough track. Looking over the shoulder-high wall I found a hidden cove huddled down amongst the base of the steep cliffs upon which we were perched. Little boats moved lazily in and out, and a small motor boat was circling round and round, while a girl standing on the highest rock tracked it with her camera.
When the others joined me we all became fascinated by a family of lizards. One was quite enormous. They regarded us with the same curiosity we extended to them.
SMALL TOWN APPEAL – BUYING CHRISTMAS GIFTS IN OTRANTO
Otranto-city-walls
It was mid-afternoon by the time we parked on the quayside. Otranto is a very lovely town, full of diamond-flagged grand boulevards, and piazzas of pretty pinky-white stone; also those steep little streets of whitewashed houses. There was a beautiful old castle, which I explored with Vivien while Graham went his own way to take photographs. (He has only just confessed to spending the whole time relaxing in the shade outside a nearby bar, swallowing cold beers.)
Time to wander in Otranto
In the upper town we found many small, whitewashed shops in the narrow lanes. We all saw nice souvenirs, like clothes being sold off cheaply at end-of-season. I bought some more Christmas gifts (mainly jewellery)and again wished we could have found room in our car for some of the colourful local pottery. We may find many more examples of the potter’s art in this area if we are ever able to return.
SMALL TOWN APPEAL – IMPORTANT TREASURE – DON’T MISS THIS – 11thC MOSAIC
But the abiding memory of this town is the vast 11th century mosaic covering the entire floor of the old Duomo, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunciata:
This enormous work was executed by one 11th century monk.
The church is now emptied of pews and altar so that visitors can walk round the edges and marvel at the beauty and detail of this colourful and sometimes quirky depiction of ‘The Tree of Life’. It is a beautiful cathedral with arched alcoves down one side, where we descended to the crypt, where there was a good exhibition about the history – and that of the town, too.
Tree-of-life
BELIEVE ME – WEEDS TASTE LIKE WEEDS
Lucio’s girlfriend had left that morning, and Vivien and Lucio told us that they would prepare dinner. We heard earnest discussion emanating from the kitchen, and wondered what they had in store for us.
I won’t say whose idea it was to serve weeds up for our evening meal – just that Graham and I later agreed (with grimaces) that they still tasted like weeds – somewhat bitter, however ECO-FRIENDLY they may be. Unfortunately, Graham didn’t take a photo; but needless to say, his good description of the vegetables was ‘nappy-green sludge’.
We made sure to stop and explore Ostuni, which was on our way to join the coast road. Another remembered favourite, it is called locally The White City because from a distance its hill is crowned with sparkling white buildings. Once inside, we were enchanted by the steep and narrow, winding cobbled streets in the old town. Unsurprisingly, every house was painted a fresh, glaring white, which set off the pots of geraniums on steps and balconies, and the festoons of bougainvillea of every hue.
Ostuni-alleyway
NARROW LANES – TEMPTING LITTLE SHOPS
Ostuni-visitors-climbing-the-steep-streets
In the upper town we found many small, whitewashed shops in the narrow lanes. We were all attracted by nice souvenirs, like clothes being sold off cheaply at end-of-season. I bought some elegant scarves and pashminas for Christmas gifts on our return, and wished we could have found room in our car for some of the colourful pottery. I fell in love with some intricately pierced white china lamps, and antique terra-cotta amphora, which I would have argued to find room for could we have afforded them.
We may find many more examples of the potter’s art in this area if we are ever able to return.
VIVIEN AND I BEHAVE LIKE TEENAGERS
Vivien and I had great fun trying on hats in one shop. Hats do not suit me, but I was disappointed when she did not buy an immense floppy-brimmed job in bright mustard yellow. She looked fabulously elegant in it, and the colour suited her. There was also a treasure-trove of costume jewellery. I bought some for small gifts for friends when we returned home.
Ostuni is very close to Cisternino, where many Trulli are dotted by the road and in further fields only a couple of miles out into the country.
WE SEARCH IN VAIN FOR A REMEMBERED RISTORANTE –
I was surprised and a bit miffed not to find a wonderful ‘wine cellar’ restaurant we’d visited five years before – but later, when we stayed those two nights with Francesca after taking Vivien to her plane in Brindisi, I think we found it in Ciobica, the next little town towards Cisternino, but on the other road. Sadly, at that time of day, it was closed.
After finding some breakfast we really started our tour, taking the scenic route from Nemours to Orleans – then Bourges. Some low hills appeared, and we took an ‘A’ road through a few pretty towns. One had a picturesque abbey by a river. Children were bathing in the shallows beneath the bridge. We went through some attractive villages before stopping for coffee at Orleans– a truly beautiful city.
A more ancient narrower street of Orleans
Apart from some romantic medieval lanes it was spacious, and paved almost entirely in white or cream stone tiles – even some of the roadways. The large central ‘place’ was dominated by an enormous statue of Joan of Arc in full armour; her warhorse pawing the ground. Magnificent!
Joan of Arc dominated a large central square – Orleans
BANNERS OF JOAN’S KNIGHTS LEAD YOU TO THE CATHEDRAL
The wide avenue leading to the cathedral had a large banner of one of Joan’s knights hanging from each upstairs window. So – a colourful display before we reached the large circle with the cathedral in it’s centre. Orleans boasts a very clean and pretty cathedral, with sort of open stone ‘lanterns’ flanking the central spire.
Orleans Cathedral – first stop before carrying on our routeJoan-of-Arc-Orleans-stainglass
In the Cathedral.
Orleans Cathedral contains some truly exquisite old window glass.
Inside were two new ‘Rose’ windows on each side aisle. One had wonderful, truly golden intricate designs. The other was a melange of old shards. Both cast their colours onto the flagged stone floor of the aisle.
All around the nave were large, probably late Victorian windows depicting Joan’s life. A progression from humble shepherdess to crowning the Dauphin. The last, rather shocking window depicts France’s heroine stoic amid the flames. All around her British soldiers grin like snarling dogs. This, to a Brit, is very unfair, since a French friend has told us that it was a French bishop who handed her over to the Brits, and he ordered the burning alive.
THE COFFEE SHOPS OF ORLEANS – TOO MANY CUPS?
Dame Nature sent me scurrying into various coffee shops – one extremely grand; the ‘Ladies’ was worth a trip all to itself. Graham was a bit miffed about the cost of the espresso coffee, though – his third that morning, because of my needs. We explored a bit more and admired the very old timbered houses, taller than in England, with steeper sloping roofs and their often criss-cross exposed beams painted in bright colours. Then we passed over the impressive medieval bridge on our way to Bourges.
Do visit Orleans if you can – it is very rewarding
LA FERTE ST-AUBIN
SCENIC ROUTE TO BOURGES: Charming Chateau – Blissful Bistro
As we left there was a noticeable rise in temperature. Enjoying the sight of several chateaux, some old farms, and rivers bordered by trees, we made our way leisurely along the country road towards our next night’s stop. Presently, we came to Le-Ferte-St Aubin, a very small village. Standing back from our road was its really charming chateau. It was bordered by two straight channels of water decorated with ducks and gliding swans.
This Chateau was literally yards from the main road – so we did not deviate from our RouteThe roadside Bistro where we had lunch -a mile along from the Chateau
Nearby was a small bistro with people eating and drinking on the veranda. We decided to scoot along there, as it was nearly two o’clock.
A mouth-watering aroma assailed our nostrils as we approached:
The board offered a choice of three starters, three mains and three desserts; also cheeses. One of the diners started chatting. His English was good, and after urging us to check out the chateau he insisted fervently ‘Order the chicken – it is VERY good’. And so it was – one of our ‘memorable’ meals. Au Bistro Gourmand in Le-Ferte-St-Aubin– both bistro and village were small but special.
The timber house on the bridge at Vierzon
Afterwards, Graham took numerous pictures of the grand house – also named Le-Ferte-St Aubin, before pressing on.
VIERZON – A REMARKABLE BRIDGE-TOLLHOUSE
Being on the scenic route we did, however, pause in Vierzon(very picturesque by the river, with an exceptionally tall, thin, half-timbered house at one end of the bridge.) We stopped for a drink of citron presse and a walk round the lovely old town, despite the heat (about 35C even at 5pm) Remarkably, the sun had finally shown itself.
My biggest mistake; Booking an ‘F1’ outside Bourges.
I GUESS ‘YOU GETS WHAT YOU PAYS FOR’
This ‘hotel’ was certainly cheap. €29 bought us a tiny cubicle. However, I declined to shower in a stall used by about 400 truckers (our genial fellow guests, it appeared.) There was one lav and one shower per floor of about fifty rabbit-hutches. (Sorry, Graham says there was another lav tucked around under the stairs). The plastic-covered bed was lumpy and there were comings and goings all night. It was so hot we had to prop our door open, like every other ‘guest’. Many passed, giggling, returning from their night out. In comparison, the Kyriad at Coquelles, near Calais (of which more later), was terrific value despite somewhat rude staff.
DELIGHTS IN BOURGES
Heaven & Hell.
However, a quick trip that evening into Bourges itself was rewarding, especially the main doorway to the Cathedral in the picturesque ‘townhistorique’. It had a bas-relief of heaven and hell above the ancient, heavy wooden doors. Hell looked much more fun than heaven, which had saintly figures in faintly-coloured robes just standing about, whereas the inhabitants of hell were all naked and writhing…
Heaven and Hell and many doorways – Bourges Cathedral
There was an absolutely gorgeous garden at the back (see feature image). Though small, it had many statues. It was full of very bright flowers in plantings that were definitely un-British. Instead, we appreciated a French sense of design and unusual colour combinations that worked.
I walked between the beds sniffing the roses, but my sense of smell is diminishing these days. Regrettable, but not so bad as hobbling around in pain.
BOURGES’ EXCELLENT MUNICIPAL CAFE.
We were able to admire this haven while slaking our thirsts in comfort at the outdoor Municipal café (which mercifully provided toilets). The weather was very, very hot even in the evening – about 35C as I recall (95Faranheit).
BOURGES – HUMBLE MEAL – EXCEPTIONALLY GOOD SERVICE
Not very hungry, but quite tired, we decided not to look for a nice restaurant, but instead hurry back and get a snack at one of the ‘Industrial Park’ chains close to F1. After dispiritedly studying the bills of fare we ended up in a pizza-cum-sandwich bar called Patapain. Despite winding down in order to close in 20 minutes the staff obligingly heated us a pizza and said we could eat it there. They did not hurry us. We ended up buying some very healthy-looking pastries to take out. They were stacking chairs by now but were unfailingly pleasant and polite. I gave them a good review on Trip Advisor. Good service should always be acknowledged.
LAST DAY: WE TREASURE WONDERFUL FRENCH ‘AIRES’ – & ROUEN.
28th November:
Typical sign indicating to an Aire
We planned stopping at Rouen only for lunch. We had a long trip ahead – nearly 6 hours to reach Calais; even on the Toll road A28. Depending on good weather and no hitches, that is.
Let me mention here how all French Toll roads, (as well as a few others) have at reasonable intervals (20-30 miles usually) wonderful resting-places called ‘Aires’. Some have woodland walks; all provide picnic tables and always good clean loos. (Congratulations to the French public for respecting the needs of others.) Many Aires also provide drinking water and showers – all free. We really treasure these stops, and congratulate the French road designers for anticipating the needs of travellers.
We were still feeling a bit beaten-up after the ‘flu, and the weather had suddenly turned from 25 Centigrade in St Emilion to 10C. A big jump in two days, so all we remember of an otherwise unremarkable journey on the highway is the number of those wonderful ‘Aires’ en route. Those – and the barely-glimpsed city of Rouen.
The Great Clock on the Rue du Gros-Horloge – Rouen
ROUEN – WE WANT TO SEE MORE
We find to our chagrin that in mid-April 2017, as I came to the end of my account, that neither Graham nor I could remember any detail of Rouen, except that we liked it very much. We decided it would be an easy place to go back to for a few days or a week, as it beckoned further investigation. (See later blog of 2018 tour of France; coming soon.)
We parked somewhere near the cathedral and walked back to a promising-looking restaurant I had seen on a corner.
ROUEN – GREAT CHEAP LUNCH – GOOD FOOD – SERVICE –AMOSPHERE
Indeed it was. We were very lucky to get seats at a table by the window, because this was evidently where the local office and shop workers lunched. There was a constant stream. None of the staff spoke English, but there was a menu board with four choices for each course, and iced water and wine stood on every table. Le cap vers – 13 Rue de la République
OFFICE WORKER’S LUNCH – HAPPY TO WAIT OUR TURN
We indicated to the staff that we were happy to wait while they attended a large table of friends who had gathered to share their hurried lunch. And so, after a while we were rewarded with excellent friendly service after choosing our meals (at random) from the blackboard placed in front of us. Our food was delicious and very cheap – a lovely Last Lunch in La Belle France. If we do get back to Rouen, we will look for that café again.
So many pleasant experiences over the years have changed our previous (unfair) idea of Normandy as a flat landscape with only endless tragic war graves to draw one there!
Sorry, Normandy. We bow our heads in abject apology. Your towns and villages still have an amazing amount of lovely medieval buildings – and your museums offer such rich history.
Above all: Your people have always made us very welcome.
Azay-le-Rideau was where we had booked at a very small hotel for our next nights stay ; in itself a very modest town off the main road to Tours. Leaving St Emilion we took the D674 road to Angouleme
EN-ROUTE – LA ROCHE CHALAIS
En route, we stoppped off for a coffee and a quick bite for breakfast at La Roche-Chalais. Early Sunday morning found a cafe open close to the church on the high ground. It overlooked the river Dronne, which from our viewpoint appeared quite wide. A bridge with an impressive, single arching span crossed it.
ANGOULEME – the original home of the Plantagenets.
(Disappointingly, when we reached Angouleme we saw no trace of that fierce medieval Royal Family in both France and England. Athough we passed a castle it did not appear to be open to the public.)
We stopped for an hour or so, seeking lunch. Our road dictated us winding up and up, past a lovely covered market. We looked in vain for somewhere to park nearby, even turning back and driving in a loop.
Carrying on up the narrow hill we finally found a large open ‘Place’ surrounded by grand civic buildings. We were fortunate to park in a tiny side street, after first checking with a local lady. I noticed a sign pointing to The Ramparts, so urged Graham to just walk round the corner to see.
Angouleme – Avenue des Maréchaux
ANGOULEME – A GRAND PROMENADE – ANDA GREAT VIEW
We found ourselves in a wide street bordered on one side by railings. Looking over, you could see far below to a street of grand houses. A little further on was a large monument, with people seated on and near it, eating sandwiches.
Thinking of our time, Graham went back and fetched the remains of our good boulangerie breakfast and bottled water. We enjoyed this looking out over a wide view of a green park and golf course a couple of miles off to our left. The streets of the town wound ever down on our right, with a river a mile or two off. It was very dramatic, and pleasant in the November sun.
AngoulemeAngouleme – Rempart Desaix
SANDWICHES WITH 5TH PRESIDENT OF FRANCE
We found we were sitting beneath the statue of politician and mathematician Lazare Carnot, who was fifth President of France. (I hope I’ve remembered that aright. He was the 5thsomething, anyway).
Carnot Statue Angouleme
AZAY-LE-RIDEAU – THERE’S A SMALL HOTEL…
Not long afterwards we were crossing that river on our way to the small town of Azay-le-Rideau, near Tours.
After a little riding round we found our small hotel, tucked away in a side street.
Hotel Val de Loire
The Hotel Val-de-Loire is a well-run hostelry, perhaps slightly impersonal at the end of The
Season; (we arrived 27th November). That we could understand. However, our ensuite was bright and spotless. Nothing was neglected for our comfort. The extra pillows I had requested were in place, and the reading lamps worked.
Room Tip: As it stands back from a side street, all rooms are quiet.
WHEN EATING OUT – NEVER JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS COVER
It was a pity that the hotel dining room was closed. We were told that it being a Sunday there would be only one eating-place open in the town – the Grill in the square. From the outside it did not impress. When we entered we were dismayed to see games machines downstairs. And the dining room was not thrilling – checked tablecloths, candles in bottles – a time warp.
GOOD SERVICE – THANKS TO DEPARDIEU LOOK-ALIKE
The young waitress totally ignored us, even though only one table was occupied. That is – until a family group came in. We were treated to a big, friendly grin from a younger version of Gerard Depardieu. This genial young local man maybe said something, because after that we had good service and a truly great meal at a very fair price.
A GREAT MEAL – SIZZLING STONES
Graham, in particular, was thrilled by his slivers of raw pork to sizzle on a hot stone. It was accompanied by a nice, fresh salad and a little tub full of those excellent ‘frite’ only the French seem to come up with! I cannot remember my meal; only that it was also very tasty.
So – not our chosen venue, but what a GREAT meal we ended up with!
AZAY-le-RIDEAU – TURN ASIDE FOR THIS TOWN AND VISIT ITS CHATEAU
Azay-le-Rideau is an attractive small town, with interesting little shops. The chateau is also exceptional we have learned – though we had no time to visit it. If this town is on your route, do try staying there.
Chateau-Azay-le -Rideau
Azay-le-Rideau
AZAY-LE-RIDEAU’S CHARMING LITTLE SHOPS
We bought some of the local goodies the next day, mostly from a small shop with two round tables, where we enjoyed Assam tea (made properly) and scrumptious cakes, willingly paying the somewhat high price. We also bought some of Madame’s expensive home made local biscuits. They looked wonderfully crisp and flaky, but proved to break up in your hand and taste disconcertingly like Weetabix. We had to scoff them all in the car before they totally disintegrated!
As we resumed our journey the sky darkened and presently we were in the midst of a storm. It slowed the driving, but diminished when we reached Narbonne. The town was on my list of places to stop and explore. We were both a bit tired, and so we went into the town and parked up by an ancient church, which had been turned into an art gallery. The girl on the desk was most unhelpful about letting me use their toilet, and so Graham and I hurried along to where we could see a tall tower, which must mark the centre.
The central Canal
BUT FIRST – A PROPER CUPPA
Presently we found ourselves beside a broad canal, and we followed it to the first café that presented itself. Miraculously, they served properly made English tea (the cuppa, that is). What a treat! We sank down onto a pavement chair and watched the comings and goings.
NARBONNE – PAST GLORIES – THE BELLE EPOQUE
We were admiring the building opposite; a rather baroque, large square place of several storeys. Carved in relief all along the top was information that this was an Emporium for Ladies A La Mode (as far as we could make out the French). Not any more. It looked largely empty, with several shabby little shops created out of the grand ground floor entrances. (We later realised that we were facing one of the sides of this once-imposing building).
The Old Department Store Building
NARBONNE HAS MANY FANCY LITTLE SHOPS
When we left we turned into a sort of passage behind the main street. It was full of intriguing little shops, and led out into another, much larger square. It had a sort of oblong trough in the centre, full of water. Perhaps the base for another fountain?
In front of that was the still attractive main frontage of what is now known as the ‘Monoprix Building’. Easy to locate, but such a comedown from its past grandeur.
WE LOVE HOW THE FRENCH DECORATE THEIR STREETS
The Ancient Fountain
Before us was that previously glimpsed tall tower. It was already decorated for Christmas. Like a giant gift parcel, it was tied up in broad red ribbon, with a neat bow in the centre.
‘Typical French wit,’ chuckled Graham appreciatively. We love French wit, which shows everywhere; in window displays and much street art. Even, as here, on buildings themselves.
This tower is part of what remains of the old castle. Attached buildings are beautiful, even in Civic use. (English Councils, take note!)
A BEAUTIFUL FOUNTAIN – ON NARBONNE HOTEL DE VILLE (town hall)
Still part of the castle complex, the town hall façade had been cleaned to show the attractive pinkish stone. Next to this beautiful fountain was a medieval, carved doorway. We walked in, admiring the tessellated floor, and the statues and other features in the round (or octagonal?) hall or atrium. Various offices led off, so we walked on. Through another arched doorway we found ourselves in a small, enclosed courtyard, with yet another eye-catching floor.
Gargoyle
NARBONNE – PALAIS DE ARCHEVEQUES
Had we more time, and the ability to read French, we would have loved to spend time looking at the town’s archives. Various illustrated displays showed a bronze statue of Romulus and Remus. We managed to track the original down in
The Museum of Arts and History of Narbonne. This was hidden in yet another inner courtyard where fascinating gargoyles were being restored.
After walking around this interesting town, we made our way back through a sort of ‘tunnel’ of yet more interesting little shops.
WOULD THIS BE ‘THE MISTRAL’?
A sudden high wind followed by driving rain caused us to hurry back to our car, which was just as well, because soon all was darkness and Graham had to negotiate narrow country roads in a raging storm.
We discovered Les Baux quite by accident, as I’ll explain later.
23rd November:
Travelling along the Languedoc coast I said to Graham: ‘Do you realise this is my brother’s birthday?’
I hoped Trevor did not feel neglected because I had not sent a card. He had no idea I was in France. We had deliberately not mentioned our long trip anywhere on the Internet (except when booking, of course.) Just before we had left he was somewhere on the high seas on a cruise. We knew he had just moved to a new address (as then unknown to us).
MAKING FOR OUR FAVOURITE FRENCH B&B
We were happy to be on our way to Villelongue D’Cote Jardin; our top favourite French B&B. It is a very old farmhouse attached to the Abbaye deVillelongue, near St Martin le Vieil, in the AUDE region.
SET YOUR SATNAV TO NEAREST VILLAGE
We had long ago learned the hard lesson to set our SatNav to
ST MARTIN LE VIEIL, as there are many places in France called Villelongue.
WE SEARCH IN VAIN FOR THE OCHRE –
To reach Villelongue we took the toll road (A8,A7,D54,D24). The weather was changeable, and we did not feel recovered enough to do a long country journey. There were some nice autumn colours here and there, but the ground was mainly flat. I had, however, expressed a strong desire to stop for half an hour in some famous Ochre quarries I had heard of. They were close to the road off towards Orange, but not that far, according to a guidebook I’d been lent. I had scribbled some very hasty notes.
I SHOULD HAVE BEEN MORE CAREFUL
The road sign
I now told Graham ‘They’re in a place called Les Baux’. It’s just before the turn off for Orange’.
I perused like a hawk all the road signs we passed, but no Les Baux appeared, and no brown signs to ochre quarries. Not even on the turnoff to Orange. We seemed almost at Montpellier when in small letters ‘Les Baux’ appeared on a long list of motorway directions. Sighing at my insistence, Graham turned off onto the D27. That narrowing road seemed to go on for hours.
It led through two pretty and prosperous-looking villages. One was exceptionally attractive. Was it La Cazou – or (most probably) the other, called ‘Maussane-les-Alpelles’, that helped Graham perk up? Or maybe the third one, named La Remise?
NO ORANGE AND YELLOWMOUNTAINS
The slow journey seemed endless, and mostly rather boring. At last came a small roadsign with more directions to Les Baux. We drove down a narrow, straight road, with trees and buildings on our right.
“I wonder where these damn quarries are,’ I said gloomily. ‘We ought to be seeing yellow and orange mountains by now – I saw the pictures.’
‘We’ll, it’s only 1 kilometre now, so we may as well carry on,’ he answered.
LES BAUX – NO OCHRE – BUT WE FIND MAGIC
The road to Les Baux
I feared I’d get a lecture about wasting time when suddenly, the road ended in a track. Before us, out of the flat plain, loomed an enormous high, jagged white rock face resembling an almost symmetrical cone.
‘What on earth is that?’ he said.
‘It appears to have a window cut in it – but it’s so large – and why there? But it can’t be natural; it’s too perfect a shape.’ As we got closer the escarpment looked almost castle-like.
The answer came almost immediately. A white finger post pointed us to ‘Les Baux; bastion of Les Seigneurs & le Roi.’
LES BAUX – BASTION OF KINGS
‘Roi means royal,’ I said. ‘I do know that word, at least.’
‘And ‘bastion’ means something like castle, or stronghold’, said Graham.
We got back into our car and he drove up as far as he could, winding round the escarpment until we came to a flat parking space. I was happy to see some toilets built into the rock face. Ignoring the wind plucking at my cape I hobbled toward them, praying they would be open. Fortunately, I was lucky. (Sorry how often they crop up in this narrative; but believe me, when you reach a certain age…)
A Narrow Street in Les Baux
FREE TOILETS – FREE PARKING – BRITISH ATTRACTIONS TAKE NOTE!
Meanwhile, Graham had gone up to the small sentry-box affair to pay our fee, but was told all was free, presumably because of our Blue Badge – or maybe it was some local saint’s day?
We spent a pleasant hour or so relaxing over excellent coffee in a pretty café-bar, where I discovered that the most stupendous views were from the lavatory window. I told Graham it didn’t matter if he didn’t want to ‘go’; he must take his camera with him, and make sure to look at the baronial fireplace in the next room on the way!
LES BAUX IS WELL WORTH TURNING OFF TO – IT’S UNIQUE!
Lovers in a Narrow Street in Les Baux
Les Baux is simply amazing, and extremely beautiful. You can get some idea from Googling it on ‘images’ – but you really need to visit if you can. And walking around we found the window-space we’d seen from the road. It was simply immense and surrounded on the ‘inside’ with decorated carvings.
A Pyramid of Pots
LES BAUX HAS INTRIGUING AND PRETTY LITTLE SHOPS
All the way up we passed along narrow, cobbled streets of charming stone medieval houses, and were charmed into entering many of the interesting small shops. Embroideries, handmade soaps and perfumes from local flowers – cakes and other local food specialities. All were presented with that unique ‘panache’ the French are famous for. I’m afraid we looked a lot, but did not buy much. Cash was depleted at the end of our long holiday.
SIEGE ENGINES AND BIRDS OF PREY
Graham, though very interested, did not want to climb up to the top, as his foot was hurting. So he missed seeing the birds of prey, and the siege-engines we were later told about. My breath was running out; but I somehow discovered that I’d had the location of those ochre mines right, but not the name of the place! Anyway, it was a serendipitous mistake. We would not have missed Les Baux for the world.
Sicily is a beautiful island, where we stayed in four private B&B’s.
We spent a week in this much-serenaded island. As well as its charismatic coast and colourful towns, Sicily has many ancient Greek ruins. (We came across a complete Greek temple, all on its own on a hill – magnificent!)
DAYS 1 -3: (5th-7th November.)
‘SICILY IN LOVE’ OUR B&B IN TRIPOTELLO – WE LOVE IT
We stayed for our first three nights at ‘Sicily in Love’, in Tripotello. We had half a well-equipped, attractive holiday flat. (The other rooms were locked, but we had a kitchen and bedsit with a very good shower room with toiletries. Several cupboards gave ample storage.)
FRESHLY-MADE BREAD AND LEAF TEA FOR BREAKFAST
The friendly and helpful hostess was always there at breakfast to dispense fragrant fresh coffee (or leaf tea) however you liked it. She stayed to cut the still-warm crusty bread she made every morning. Unusually for Italy, there was always a selection of meats and fresh fruits, cereals and yoghourts as well as her home made cakes and pies. Something for everyone, from wherever in the world. Terms there are surprisingly cheap.
Mount Etna with smoke and snow
SICILY IN LOVE HAS A GREAT VIEW OF MOUNT ETNA
Another happy feature of our stopover was the short walk up the road to overlook Mount Etna. It looked surprisingly close (because so enormous a volcanic mountain.)
Another short walk, descending through steps and a footpath, took us into Tripotello itself, which had some lovely little shops. The only drawback was the narrow pavement each side of the very busy main road.
We highly recommend:
Sicily in Love, Via Degli Ulivi3, 98039,Taormina,Italy. 003 93 66 818 2134/+ website.
TRIPOTELLO – ‘EL FEUDO’ – APTLY NAMED
Our nice landlady suggested we eat at El Feudo restaurant down the road, and gave us their card. It took a little finding, but looked very impressive (and rather expensive). It stood on a hillock amid very well kept and extensive gardens. We went in, anxious to try the famous Sicilian food we had read about so often. It was a large, attractive room, and the tables were a mixture of the very long, and 2 and 4 seaters. All were laid with good linen and glassware, etc.
EL FEUDO – ‘WAITING’ WAITERS
We were in an almost empty restaurant. We did not mind, except that, bewilderingly, we were just left and left while the headwaiter lounged around, chatting to his staff. At last the sommelier came over and was curt in the extreme. We were told we could only order pizza as they were expecting a large party.
EL FEUDO – GRAHAM’S DINNER IN HIS LAP
The next night we arrived at just past 8pm and ordered a full meal. The service was unnecessarily slow. When it did come the plates were slammed down in front of us (a plate of spaghetti in a tomato sauce landed in my husband’s lap.) Our plates held nothing like the attractive food other people on the large party tables were getting. We could not understand why, as we always make a point of being friendly and polite.
El FEUDO – ONLY WANT LARGE PARTIES?
When we came to pay, the owner of the restaurant was taking the cash. He asked ‘Did you enjoy your meal?’ So my husband explained how it had been ruined by deliberately rude service. The owner just shrugged. Our conclusion was that this restaurant was only interested in taking large parties and found it an inconvenience to serve couples. In our view, small parties would be wise to Give it a wide berth.
TAORMINA.
6TH November:
TAORMINA – YOU WIND AROUND TO THE TOP – AND THEN SOME
Whilst in the area we visited Taormina, which is altogether delightful – and so a tourist-trap. It was busy enough even in early November. One can only imagine what it’s like at the height of the season if you wished to leisurely explore. The top town, the old bit, has to be reached by a special bus after you have already wound your car round the corkscrew mountain. We had to park our car and with other visitors, wait for the bus to take us to the main square. This was predictably full of tourist shops.
Tourists in Taormina
TAORMINA – ARABS, ARTISTIC SWEETS & ANCIENT GREEKS.
Majolica Ware
Taormina Old Town is very attractive and colourful, with many shops selling majolica ware – not least the dramatic ‘Arab’ and ‘Royal’ heads in bright colours. They look great adorning garden steps in the area – but we declined from buying one to bring home. We knew all too well how many of these local delights can look really tawdry back in grey old England… Besides, they were understandably not cheap.
We did buy many gifts, though, at an extremely posh confectioners’ selling the most amazing sculptures of all sizes in chocolate and marzipan…
WE ADMIRE SOME ‘HIGH CLASS’ SOUVENIRS
Even in November people were shuffling past doorways surrounded with colourful large platters. Shop windows were stuffed with copies of ancient amphora, Greek jugs and the like. And always those Arabic or King and Queen ‘heads’, from tiny little ones to fit into a backpack or suitcase, right up to twice life size. Some were garish and horrible – proper ‘Tourist souvenirs’. But there were some very stylish ones in highly polished jet black – or ditto white – and others that had been exquisitely hand-painted. I must say, I was very tempted at times, but Graham has a horror of being thought ‘cheap’. We certainly could not afford the most artistic versions. Many sell for well over €2,000.
We turned from the shops and joined the throng pushing through the archway to the ‘Citta Antica’. Our little crowd was immediately transported to an enchanted, timeless world.
TAORMINA – A LAND OF ROMANCE – OR A HOLLYWOOD FILM SET?
We still had to climb, sometimes by steps, but there were always pretty little streets off to our right. Many ended in distant vistas. Suddenly, through an archway just to our left, a flight of steps led down into quite a large, hidden Roman garden.
Roman wall and Garden in Taormina
Bougainvillea in Taormina
TAORMINA – A MOST ARTISTIC FLIGHT OF STEPS
We stopped to admire this short street of pretty, small hotels, their balconies dripping greenery. One at the end was almost obscured by abundant bougainvillea.
Then we ascended a truly artistic flight of grey stone steps. At intervals were platforms where exotic palms and the like were planted in square parterres. These spaces were interspersed with seats, and drinking fountains that had ancient faces carved on them. I rested while Graham took photographs. We passed little side roads with many attractive restaurants. Looking down the narrow, cobbled ways we enjoyed the views out across the bay that seem to appear wherever you walk. Very touristy, even in November, but truly beautiful.
Steps up to the top of Taormina
Then we had still more climbing, having to sadly resist the eager waiters standing at the top of each winding lane, trying to tempt us to their restaurant. I felt so mean to keep saying ‘No’ to each in turn… At last we were in a street practically at the top. Some really tempting shops this time, and then street stalls selling favours and souvenirs outside the entrance to the Ancient Greek Theatre.
Faun
Amphitheatre at Taormina
Amphitheatre at Taormina
TAORMINA GREEK THEATRE – FREE ON SUNDAYS
Wondering how much it would cost we approached the ticket booth, to be told ‘It is Sunday – so is free’. This often happens in Italy, but our itinerary does not allow us to be mean foreigners, and plan all our visits this way.
TAORMINA GREEK THEATRE – BACKDROP FRAMES AN ENTIRE COASTLINE
The highlight of that day’s trip was this ancient Greek theatre right on top of the mountain. Superb views of the coast are framed by the pillars that had been part of the backdrop of the apron-style stage. I wonder if you can still see ‘Antigoni of Thebes’ and the other Ancient Greek Classics performed there, as they undoubtedly were, 2,500 years ago.
TAORMINA GREEK THEATRE INTACT – STILL IN USE REGULARLY
It was, surprisingly, a very large, wide stage. One could imagine crowd scenes and dances being performed. All the semicircular seating is still there, in good condition. We also saw into the dressing rooms. The acoustics were amazing. You could quite easily make out the chatter of people the other side of the very large arena.
Amphitheatre at Taormina
TAORMINA GREEK THEATRE – SIT WITH GHOSTS
I was aware of covering ground where Ancient Greeks trod two thousand four hundred years ago. Looking up, I saw that day’s crowd filing along the top to descend. Many took a rest, sitting in the very tiers that would have been filled with enthusiastic, cheering people draped in togas and cloaks. I could almost, ALMOST see their ghosts, and those of the Romans who followed them … ***
There is a most attractive ‘crystal’ hotel as you leave the theatre. It has a leafy garden and must command superlative views. It looked rather expensive, as you’d expect. I’m afraid Graham had to drag me away from looking down at the smart people entering through the glass corridor. I was hungry, and wistfully wondered what it would be like to sit in the transparent dining room. It was all windows. They overlooked that fabulous coastline far below. It stretched to the level-appearing horizon.
BILLY BUNTER’S HEAVEN – WE BUY FANCY SWEETS FOR LITTLE FRIENDS
We walked along past the stalls until we found ourselves in the ‘top street’. It was full of shops selling high-class ceramics and fashionable clothes. I insisted on looking in every window, until we found ourselves in front of a very special confectioners’ shop that we had passed previously. I cannot remember the name of this very classy shop, except that the exterior framing the windows was dark blue, like the smart little bags our purchases were placed in.
View from Taormina
Apart from the finely-detailed little baskets of marzipan fruits we bought for the kids there were amazing, large sculptures in chocolate. Also, ‘Hansel and Gretel’ houses fashioned from a mixture of sweets. I wished I could have come here as a greedy child… All I can give you is this website to provide you with a clue:
To get back to the large piazza where the bus would come to take us back to our car would take about twenty minutes of leisurely walking. On the way we passed an artist displaying life-size cut-outs of tourists who eagerly posed for him. We decided that we would have no use for effigies of ourselves!
We were tired when we got back to our B&B, and still had not seen all the sights of Taormina – but we were glad we had spent a day in this very colourful, uniquely Sicilian resort – and thankful that it was out-of-season!
There was so much more Matera to explore. This was the day we went back to do just that, and Graham bought a piece of art. We’d both been going back to admire it ever since we took that ‘taxi’ trip around the Sassi with Lolly. (Click here to take you to the taxi blog)
We’d been walking around after Andrea the Sassi-taxi driver had said his friendly farewell that day. Just off one of the upper squares of ‘old’ Matera we came across this pottery and ceramic studio. In the window were ceramic ‘Lord of the Rings’ type pieces. These were colourful and intricately worked by the young man at the desk:-Raffaele Pentasuglia at Studio D’Arte Raffaele Pentasuglia
But it was a collection of plain terra-cotta studies that drew us both.
MORE MATERA – ‘AS IT ONCE WAS’
“They are my father’s work,” the young man said. “They are mostly about characters who used to live in the Sassi. That’s where he lived until they cleared everyone out.”
I loved the group of musicians – so faithfully depicted; so lifelike – but they were 150 euros each. I felt you needed at least three. Too much to plunder from our holiday budget!
Donkey sculpture
MORE MATERA – MEMORIES OF WORKING WITH A DONKEY
Then – at the back of the studio – I saw the terra-cotta model of a couple on a donkey. Weary from working in the fields, the man sat in front, with the saddlebag holding a bottle. Behind him, his wife clung on. A bundle of twigs was strapped to her back, and another of the durum wheat from which they make the delicious Matera bread. The donkey looked tired, too; patiently climbing over cobbles.
Donkey sculpture
“Oh, Graham – I love this.”
“How much?” he had asked warily. It was 200 euros – but clearly worth it. With a few strokes and pits, the expressions were on the faces. The donkey looked so alive; about to step forward off its base. But our holiday money had to last.
WE MEET THE SCULPTOR – AND ENJOY IMMEDIATE RAPPORT
So we looked in on it from time to time, and I think nobody was more surprised than that young
Donkey sculpture
man when we bought it.
“It’s for our wedding anniversary as well as your birthday,” said Graham.
A bonus for us: The father, who had sculpted our new acquisition, was in the studio that day. I was able to take both his hands and thank him. His son translated that the piece would be treasured. It would always remind us of the Sassi of Matera, and its story.
“Mi mamma e papa,” the father said, indicating the subjects. “And Pepino our donkey. He was an essential member of our family.”
Their likenesses now hold pride of place on our mantelpiece.
MORE MATERA SOUVENIRS
Also that day we bought a few modest souvenirs of good quality, and had a very good authentic local lunch in a small ristorante at the top of the Sassi. We chose it because it was full of locals – and oh, how we enjoyed this simple food cooked with flair. The place was called Al Falco Grillaio on the Via San Biagio. I remember that it was very affordable.
Al Falco Grillaio
LEVI’S PENTAPTYCH PAINTING:
MORE MATERA – LOCAL LANDSCAPE – SHAMING SASSI – ROUSING RANT
Then we went into the Museo Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna della Basilicata Palazzo Lanfranchi – and were rewarded by confronting the very famous, enormous five-panelled painting by Carlo Levi himself. It demonstrated very acutely how life had been in the Sassi, and the living conditions of its starving inhabitants.
In the first picture we saw a white-faced, thin, tired mother and her many children crammed into their cave-room. They were almost swamped amongst other ragged inhabitants. The next panel showed a doctor (Carlo Levi’s sister, apparently) injecting children outside their dwellings. The scene shifted to a mother and child returning home on a laden donkey. Her toil-aged husband was walking by their side through the bare clay hills, which at that time formed most of Basilicata. The fourth, much livelier painting had a red-haired young man exhorting a crowd to form a union, or something of the sort. The background is clearly the town square of Levi’s ‘Gagliano’. It made me determined to track this place down and visit it. Last of all were some grey figures that almost melted and disappeared into the bare strata of rock and clay behind them.
The paintings, though loose and free in style, were incredibly evocative of the people and places they depicted.
Here is a link to a youtube video:- Il dipinto “Lucania ’61” di Carlo Levi, a Matera – Storie Enogastronomiche Published on 26 Apr 2018. Graham took individual photos but feels the video he has left a link to will give you a far better feel to the painting.
Model superimposed on Matera’s unrestored buildings
