Medieval route

Discovery near Melle - Chateau Dampierre

February 12, 2022

DISCOVERIES NEAR MELLE

Jackie Usher French Chateau, Gardens, Local History, Travelling through Good Roads, Medieval route

MELLE to ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – A SHORT ROAD OF DISCOVERIES

8^th May 2018:

We left Lusignan to rejoin the D150, which presently changed to the D950, stopping for refreshment in Melle, a very attractive town with flowerbeds, and an exuberant row of fountains in the town square. It also had a stately old church in golden stone reminiscent of our English Cotswolds. There was a very fine statue of Christ on his donkey just above the porch.

Discovery near Melle - Fountain at Melle — Fountain at Melle

A TOWN TO LIFT THE SPIRIT

We parked just outside one of the most architecturally pleasing covered market buildings we have seen – even in France, which excels with its ‘Halles’. This one was built entirely of metal and glass. Unfortunately, the photographs of this and the places mentioned above were among several that somehow got ‘wiped’ from Graham’s computer record.

This was a town to lift the spirit – full of colour, which seemed to put a spring in the step of its inhabitants, and even me, as I moved to bag an outside table where we could enjoy citron pressè in the shade of trees.

Discovery near Melle - BRIOUX-SUR-BOUTONNE — BRIOUX-SUR-BOUTONNE

BRIOUX-SUR-BOUTONNE: TINY VILLAGE – ONCE IMPORTANT

Our road ran through a village called Brioux-sur-Boutonne, which surely once had been much more important, since we saw a very impressive arch soaring from what must have once been the city wall.

There was also an architecturally pleasing church. As you do in this area of France, we passed many a fine, large house before we found ourselves in empty country again.

Discovery near Melle - White Roses near the entrance to Chateau Dampierre — White Roses near the entrance to Chateau Dampierre

WE STUMBLE ACROSS A CHATEAU

Very soon we turned off the road to buy a sandwich from a tiny shop. It was on a small square, surrounded by charming, low houses. We passed by a row, all with identical blue shutters, and wreathed in white roses.

At the end of the row we were confronted by two tall gateposts. Beside them was a small, modest lodge. We found that by paying a small fee we could visit the chateau – Chateau Dampierre. It was not large – but attractive in that the ground floor consisted mostly of arches.

– AND ARE MET BY THE OWNERS

We were met by a studious-looking young man. He was very charming. He called ‘Maman!’ and presently Graham’s eyes were rivetted on an EXTREMELY sexy lady, wearing tight leather trousers and a leather jacket. (He remembers this brief encounter from four years ago.) She made us welcome, although this was not one of their ‘open’ days. Her manner was clearly aristocratic…

Discovery near Melle - The Front of Chateau Dampierre — The Front of Chateau Dampierre

Discovery near Melle - Garden Art at Chateau Dampierre — Garden Art at Chateau Dampierre

We had to ‘cross the moat’ to reach the front of the chateau. Then we followed the moat around each side, because it still looked as deep and wide as it had ever been. When we arrived at the front ‘Maman’ was waiting to take us up the stairs into their living quarters.

Because you had to ascend steep stairs to explore the interior of the chateau, Graham declined to go in – he said for my sake.

WE ENJOY A PRIVATE TOUR OF THE CHATEAU GARDEN

Instead, after taking money from a couple of other small parties, the son of the house escorted us two around the grounds. He told us a brief history of his home, and drew our attention to many interesting and amusing statues. Some were cunningly hidden amongst a small copse of trees. We ended up at the very quiet ‘end’ of the property. He left us to sit and eat our sandwiches on a bench by the river, cunningly hidden by weeping willow trees.

WE SHARE A JUG OF LEMONADE

When we returned he was waiting with a jug of lemonade to share with us. This small adventure has stuck in our memories, though we had to hunt through our photographs for clues as to its exact location…

Discovery near Melle - Track up to the Chapel — Track up to the Chapel

WE ‘FIND’ AN ANCIENT CHAPEL

We left on the D115 because it was an attractive country road. It presently took a 45degree dogleg, becoming the D210. Now it was much narrower, and totally empty. Would this have been one of those very rare occasions when Graham became aware of driving on ‘the wrong side of the road’? i.e. on the left, as we do in Britain.
If so, it went undetected, because presently we spotted a large signpost by the side of the road, pointing up a long, straight avenue of trees – irresistibly cool. The sign told of a very historical chapel at the top. Graham parked up and unloaded my mobility scooter. I rode in comfort while he toiled up the track, camera at the ready. Eventually, we reached a tiny, tiny chapel. (Photos lost…)

ANOTHER PRETTY, FRENCH MARTYR

Trying to make sense of the French notice board there, we divined that this was founded by Saint Radagonde, who in the early 500’s AD had been a Thuringian princess – a barbarian. She was captured by and was married to the Frankish King Clothar 1, son of Clovis 1, whose father was Charlemagne. This queen would regularly wear a hair shirt, and inflict wounds upon herself in order to become a ‘Perfect Christian’. She founded the Abbey of the Holy Cross just outside Poitiers. She is patron saint of several churches in France and England and of Jesus College.

Presently a Frenchman appeared. He told us that this chapel deep in the countryside marked the scene of her martyrdom. He was disappointed that it was closed, because he believed there to be amazing frescoes within, dating right back.

COPIES FROM ANCIENT ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES.

This was certainly a road of surprises. Just a quiet country road – but presently we saw a sort of exhibition set up in a field just off the road. Two avenues of pillars and statues, and various bits and pieces showing beautiful, intricate stone carvings. Clearly, some were from churches and cathedrals – but not all…

Discovery near Melle - Copy of Ancient Stone Masonary — Copy of Ancient Stone Masonary

These were dotted around an empty field that we passed. We wondered if these attractive bits and pieces were waiting to be collected and incorporated into some civic building – or a museum or something. It was as well that they were all far too big to stow in our boot with a view to adorning our tiny courtyard back home. The temptation might have proved too much!

Above is just a taster. A short post follows with several more photos Graham took as we walked around, unattended, uncharged, on duckboards.

Meanwhile –

Surprisingly soon we found ourselves driving into the outskirts of St Jean d’Angely.

ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – OUTSKIRTS

A sharp right turn changed our road to the D939, but we presently turned left onto the D150, which had miraculously reappeared. Soon we had reached St Jean d’Angèly, which I had read was notable historically. This was a much larger town. As soon as we parked Graham dived into the car boot for my scooter, which proved invaluable, as there was much to see even right here. This included a large, very grand convent, lauded for guarding the skull of John the Baptist.

Discovery near Melle - The Convent at St Jean d’Angèly — The Convent at St Jean d’Angèly

THEY LOOK AFTER PILGRIMS HERE

We stood by the gate, reading a notice in several languages, telling pilgrims for Santiago de Compostella that it would feed them and direct them to free accommodation in the town. We were very touched by this seemingly unique gesture of goodwill.

Discovery near Melle - The Gates to the Convent at St Jean d’Angèly — The Gates to the Convent at St Jean d’Angèly

THE FAMOUS TWIN TOWERS OF ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY

We had gone up the rather long street in order to visit the two towers that dominate the town’s skyline; but when we got there we agreed that in our opinion, despite being the pride of the inhabitants, and however famous, they looked rather ugly.

Discovery near Melle - The twin towers at St Jean d’Angèly — The twin towers at St Jean d’Angèly

SCOOTER WHIZZING

Altogether, we found so much to see that Graham was walking (and sometimes almost running) as I whizzed along on my scooter. We found we had spent well over an hour in the place. It was time to get back on the road and find our new B&B in nearby Saint Savinien.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

June 20, 2020

Rouen & French Aires

Jackie Usher Local History, Restaurants, Tourist Town Medieval route, shopping, Sightseeing

LAST DAY: WE TREASURE WONDERFUL FRENCH ‘AIRES’ – & ROUEN.

28^th November:

tunnel-to-adventure — Typical sign indicating to an Aire

We planned stopping at Rouen only for lunch. We had a long trip ahead – nearly 6 hours to reach Calais; even on the Toll road A28. Depending on good weather and no hitches, that is.

Let me mention here how all French Toll roads, (as well as a few others) have at reasonable intervals (20-30 miles usually) wonderful resting-places called ‘Aires’. Some have woodland walks; all provide picnic tables and always good clean loos. (Congratulations to the French public for respecting the needs of others.) Many Aires also provide drinking water and showers – all free. We really treasure these stops, and congratulate the French road designers for anticipating the needs of travellers.

We were still feeling a bit beaten-up after the ‘flu, and the weather had suddenly turned from 25 Centigrade in St Emilion to 10C. A big jump in two days, so all we remember of an otherwise unremarkable journey on the highway is the number of those wonderful ‘Aires’ en route. Those – and the barely-glimpsed city of Rouen.

Rouen & French Aires - The Great Clock on the Rue du Gros-Horloge - Rouen — The Great Clock on the Rue du Gros-Horloge – Rouen

ROUEN – WE WANT TO SEE MORE

We find to our chagrin that in mid-April 2017, as I came to the end of my account, that neither Graham nor I could remember any detail of Rouen, except that we liked it very much. We decided it would be an easy place to go back to for a few days or a week, as it beckoned further investigation. (See later blog of 2018 tour of France; coming soon.)

We parked somewhere near the cathedral and walked back to a promising-looking restaurant I had seen on a corner.

ROUEN – GREAT CHEAP LUNCH – GOOD FOOD – SERVICE –AMOSPHERE

Indeed it was. We were very lucky to get seats at a table by the window, because this was evidently where the local office and shop workers lunched. There was a constant stream. None of the staff spoke English, but there was a menu board with four choices for each course, and iced water and wine stood on every table. Le cap vers – 13 Rue de la République

OFFICE WORKER’S LUNCH – HAPPY TO WAIT OUR TURN

We indicated to the staff that we were happy to wait while they attended a large table of friends who had gathered to share their hurried lunch. And so, after a while we were rewarded with excellent friendly service after choosing our meals (at random) from the blackboard placed in front of us. Our food was delicious and very cheap – a lovely Last Lunch in La Belle France. If we do get back to Rouen, we will look for that café again.

So many pleasant experiences over the years have changed our previous (unfair) idea of Normandy as a flat landscape with only endless tragic war graves to draw one there!

Sorry, Normandy. We bow our heads in abject apology. Your towns and villages still have an amazing amount of lovely medieval buildings – and your museums offer such rich history.

Above all: Your people have always made us very welcome.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

December 18, 2019

ORVIETO

Jackie Usher Italian Towns, Travel Good Roads, Medieval route

ORVIETO – ON THE ROAD AGAIN.

20^th November:.

It was a pleasant 20C, so we enjoyed the scenic miles of our journey bowling along the E45 to our first night’s stop –

ORVIETO: NEARLY EMPTY GREAT HOTEL

Hotel Oasi dei Descepoli:- Firstly – this hotel was tucked away down a rather mean alley close to the station, in a dingy area of the small city. We had to ask the way of the only other householder we could see. We proceeded until we found some large gates fronting a long drive bordered with cypress trees. It had lawns to one side. We emerged in front of a very large building in the style of my secondary school built in the 1930’s, except for the series of lofty patio doors on the ground floor. In front was a wide terrace scattered with tables and chairs.

ORVIETO HOTEL: CLASSIC ART DECO

Orvieto - Spiral Staircase — Spiral Staircase

Inside, the ground floor was pure Art Deco. A classy marble staircase rose from a complete circle of steps. Graham took photos of just that.

The place was sadly rather empty, so looked bare, but we had a spacious bedroom. This was well appointed and very comfortable. We loved the extremely nice shower room, furnished with adequate towels.

ORVIETO HOTEL: HIGHEST STANDARDS MAINTAINED

In the morning we descended (you could only descend that staircase) to the basement, where a most sumptuous feast was laid out as if for fifty people at least. We got chatting to the few other guests there, and someone was at hand to supply copious hot coffee.

Orvieto - Misty Driveway — Misty Driveway

ORVIETO HOTEL: INTERESTING HISTORY

We learned that a rich priest had built this place. He wanted a modern seminary with lots of amenities for sport and leisure activities, as well as learning, for the young men he enrolled, It was such a pity that on his death the building was sold as a hotel. Because it was taken over by a high-class place in Bari we received first class service from the skeleton staff in late November.

In the early morning Graham went out onto the balcony and took many atmospheric shots of the long drive, looking rather menacing, though beautiful, shrouded in mist. ***

Room Tip: There are 400 rooms, I believe – ours faced the long drive and gardens.

Can thoroughly recommend
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g194843-d278186-r459619818-Oasi_dei_Discepoli-Orvieto_Province_of_Terni_Umbria.html#

21^st November:

ORVIETO CITY

We knew that we had been in Orvieto way back in 2001 when we took our very first holiday in Italy. My son Richard suggested (no doubt prompted by family complications) that we take a special holiday, instead of spending money on a big party to celebrate our Silver Wedding. We remembered liking the town, but nothing more.

ORVIETO: WE SHOULD HAVE FOUND THE TOWN PLAN

“Why don’t we just take a quick ride around and let the SatNav direct us out onto our road,” I suggested. Graham readily agreed.

Mistake: We turned the SatNav on too early; so we missed the centre. and instead found ourselves trapped in a long, long uphill climb on a busy road full of shops and offices. There were endless level crossings – but no little green men. Mostly, on the Continent, people just step out onto the crossing and drivers have to be ready to instantly STOP.

THROUGH UMBRIA AND TOSCANA.

A CHANGE OF LANDSCAPE

Eventually we were in the country again. The E35 Highway took us through farmland that was flat and totally different from that in either Puglia or Basilicata. Even Campania, though greener than either, has its share of mountains and plains. This land was somehow dry looking even in November, and the style of the houses and farms we passed were now totally different. We were in Umbria.

Then suddenly, low green hills and prettier scenery made us think ‘Toscana’. Yes; to my right appeared an avenue of cypresses marching uphill to a romantic-looking, typically Tuscan farmhouse. The landscape was all gentle hills clothed in greens and golds. We were in the land of a thousand travel posters – the Quintessential Italy!

Orvieto - Inside the Fortified walls of Buonconvento — Inside the Fortified walls of Buonconvento

A LITTLE GEM – RESTORED AND OCCUPIED?

“We’ve been on this road before,” I said, and Graham agreed, and even remembered routes we’d taken in the car we’d hired for a fortnight back in 2001. On that occasion we had found ourselves by a most intriguing tiny town of many pretty towers – Buonconvento. It was hidden behind a high wall. We had walked in to find that the whole place was undergoing very sympathetic restoration. So I looked out for it this time. Unfortunately, we were on the wrong fork of the road. We could have revisited the monastery nearby,; Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Within it, along with other treasures, were many exquisitely inlaid fine wooden picture-panels. In fact, Graham had surprised the rather snooty monk in the shop when he willingly paid a high price for a book illustrating them. He did not care that all the text was in Italian. This time, slightly reluctantly, we decided to press on.

Orvieto - Fortified walls of Buonconvento — Fortified walls of Buonconvento

A NOSTALGIC REVISIT.

“I think you’ll find,” said Graham, “that pretty soon we’ll reach Pistoia.” Pistoia had been the closest town to our base for our very first week in Italy. We had stayed in the picturesque and excellent Villa Vannini, high up on top of a mountain. Ski-lift cables crossed just above the road there, and in late October cyclamen grew in the hedgerows bordering the road. I felt nostalgia for the place.

“Are you sure? It didn’t come up on Google maps.”

“That’s probably because Pistoia’s a smallish town,” he replied.

Sure enough, Pistoia was right on our route, so we decided to stop for lunch, remembering a large square with colonnaded cafes on all sides.

THE SAVIOUR OF ITALY

Only we must have been the other side of town. Instead of wasting time searching, we explored our immediate area. We soon discovered the County Museum, fronted by a most imposing equestrian statue of Garibaldi. A pigeon seated majestically atop his cap lent this national hero even more height.

AN AL-FRESCO LUNCH

Right next door was a garden, and in that garden there were white tents and trellised gazebos, and we saw people seated happily gobbling lunch, all amongst the statuary and plants.

This appealed to us and soon we too were tucking in. I remember that suddenly my appetite returned and I enjoyed a superb, hearty vegetable soup. Graham cannot remember his meal.

After a short exploratory walk to digest our lunch we were on our way again, passing through and close to many pleasant small towns. All had the typical tall, square towers pierced with numerous Roman-style pillared arches. The buildings here were totally different in both colour and design to what we had grown used to in the South. This was the Italy of the travel posters, and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing it again.

We passed by Lucca, knowing too well from past experience the impossibility of parking anywhere within a short walk of the Citta Antica, which in any case we had well explored in 2001 before all the strictures came in. We just carried on, enjoying the scenery on the way to our next overnight stop.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

January 7, 2018

Tunnel to Adventure!

Jackie Usher Entering France, Food, French B&Bs, Travel Driving, Good Roads, Medieval route, Welcome

Finding the Hotel was an Adventure!

DAY 1: 3rd September:

BRUAY-La-BUISSIERE:

This time we started our Adventure using the Channel tunnel, welcoming the 25-minute rest and leg-stretch before reaching the other side, just outside Calais. As we emerged from the tunnel seeking the toll road I wound down the window. Immediately we noticed that France smelled ‘different’ – but in what respect, we could not say. Sadly, inclement weather followed us from England.

FRENCH TOLL ROADS

French toll roads, if you use a lot of them, can prove expensive, but there is generally little traffic on them. You can zoom down them when you have a definite destination.

LOVE THE RESTFUL WAYSIDE STOPS

These roads have a great feature that our British motorways could emulate. Every twenty kilometres or so you will come across this type of sign: French roadside Aires are quite wonderful, compared with Britain’s Motorway Services. These quiet, secluded picnic parks sometimes have cafes. All provide free facilities: Tables with benches, and always clean toilets. Many have showers. All provide a tap to fill your own bottle of cold drinking water. Advance signs may show added facilities in many. Most are set in woodland where you can walk off your car fatigue and rest your eyes.

BRUAY-LA-BUISSIERE – ELUSIVE HOTEL IS GOOD

Graham wanted to drive further in than Calais, so I had booked B&B at a little place called Hotel le Cottage, at Bruay-La-Buissiere. It is off the A26 road a bit beyond Bethune. (We had stayed in that small town on a previous tour. It is typically northern French. Strong Flemish influences show in the tall, thin gables of the buildings surrounding the square. We remembered fondly the great breakfasts we had in a very good cafe-bar facing the church.)

Our small hotel in La Buissiere took a bit of finding. Even Miss SatNav was confused. Eventually we discovered we had already passed it in the high street: The hotel stood well back from the road.

LE COTTAGE – OLD-FASHIONED AND SIMPLE – GOOD VALUE

It was a little old-fashioned, and our room small, but it had a good shower and ample towels. In the morning the ‘self-service’ breakfast was well attended by the family staff. Plentiful wrapped jams and butters, but very good pain-au-chocolat and croissants, and exceptional yoghourts. I’d say it is above average for a place that clearly caters for British coaches bound for the war graves. The price, in retrospect, proved competitive. I have no hesitation in recommending it as a first stop.
Hotel le Cottage,292 avenue de la Liberation, 62700 Bruay-la-Buissiere, France

WE ARE FED BY A CROCODILE!

Only thing – they were not opening their dining room for the evening, and so we had to resort to looking in a ‘commercial Complex’. We chose a ‘Crocodile’ – part of a Belgian chain catering to families. It was very crowded, and the food wasn’t at all bad, but the free wine was undrinkable, Graham said – and neither of us tried the Free Beer!

The next day we had planned a medieval route towards the Dordogne.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)

Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – Most of the images have been taken by Graham though in this blog all Orleans photos, the Restaurant and Vierzon came from other sources.

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