food

May 26, 2019

OUR FAVOURITE FRENCH B&B

23^rd November 2016

VILLELONGUE: AUDE

Our favourite French B&B is hidden in Villelongue, a small village in Aude, France – Villelongue Coté Jardin, Location Chambre d’hôte dans l’Aude. It is a charming old farmhouse. You can hardly see it from the road as it is hidden in greenery.

It has a good-sized rear garden that backs onto the outer wall of the very famous and historic Abbaye-de-Villelongue.

The Abbaye also lets rooms – but they do not appear to be at all like those next door that we have so often enjoyed. The two sisters, Claude and Renee, have spent years hunting for antique furniture and gradually restoring their family home back to its former glory.

Favourite French B&B - Villelongue — Villelongue

Favourite French B&B - Renee, Jackiie & Claude — Renee, Jackiie & Claude

VILLELONGUE COTÉ JARDIN – ALWAYS A WARM WELCOME

Claude Antoine and her sister Renee welcome their visitors upon arrival. Tea or coffee and biscuits or homemade cakes are brought into their private sitting room. ‘Booking in’ with lots of literature to peruse, commences after a short, friendly chat. (Both sisters speak English – and probably many other languages, as they have paying guests from many countries). Claude is robust and jolly, while Renee has a sharp and acerbic wit that we greatly enjoy.

Favourite French B&B - Diningroom — Diningroom

Favourite French B&B - Elm Stairs — Elm Stairs

VILLELONGUE COTÉ JARDIN – SPACIOUS, ATTRACTIVE BEDROOMS –

The spacious bedrooms are furnished in antiques, and you will probably lay your head on an embroidered pillowcase. The dining and sitting rooms are equally charming and even quirky in places.

Favourite French B&B - bedroom — A Groundfloor Bedroom

VILLELONGUE COTÉ JARDIN – LARGE BATHROOMS – EVERYTHING WORKS

All adjoining bathrooms are spacious, too, and some have antique furniture. ALL have lashings of hot water, showers and baths that work – and generous, thirsty towels and lovely toiletries.

Favourite French B&B - Bathroom — The Groundfloor Bathroom

VILLELONGUE COTÉ JARDIN – EVERY BREAKFAST IS A FEAST

But that’s not all. The sisters serve breakfast and sit down and join their guests in stoking up on the first meal of the day.

You will be offered a copious country breakfast with three kinds of crusty bread, five types of hard cheese; meats, fruits (fresh or stewed); several home made jams, and lashings of hot, fragrant coffee or a proper pot of tea.

AS FOR THE DINNERS – MARVELLOUS FOOD AND LIVELY CONVERSATION

They also offer beautifully home-cooked, generous four-course dinners of local produce (quite likely their own – as with duck and chicken, too.) Wine is included.

We have been with them on our own, as on this occasion, but we have also sat down to a table of fourteen people. Ten of the guests were an extended Spanish family – and yes, the sisters between them spoke in three languages. Everyone got on famously.

I just hope that telling you all this will not mean that we will be unable to make another booking!

BLACK MARK, JACKIE…

In March 2016 I definitely wrote an email to Claude asking her if it would be possible for us to stay for one night late in November. Would they still be open?

I am pretty certain she wrote back to say arrangements could be made.

By November I was certain in my own mind that I had followed this up at some point with the definite booking for November 23^rd. But March is a long way away from November. Even if I did… And Claude is very efficient; I imagine it would probably have been entered into a register.

THE WORST STORM IN AUDE HISTORY

We could hardly see out of the Golf’s streaming windscreen. Graham had to inch through the last miles of country lanes taking us to St Martin-le-Vieil, and then on to the Abbey de Villelongue. We arrived outside the farmhouse about 7pm, and were instantly soaked through as we jumped out of our car.

CLAUDE SEES HAMMER-HORROR APPARITIONS

And so it was that on that dark and stormy night two wet and bedraggled visitors hammered on the front door, hoping that the sisters in their flat above would hear us. As great luck would have it Claude appeared with an armful of wood from the store at the back of the house.

She gasped when she saw us through the small pane of glass in the door (and who could blame her?) She was soon joined by Renée, who frowned: but the door was opened and

“What are you doing here?” was quickly followed by “You’d better come inside.”

In the downstairs hall I reminded them of the booking made in March. Claude denied all knowledge of it. I think that because we had corresponded as friends she had forgotten she’d answered ‘Yes, come – welcome’, or words to that effect. After all, it had been eight months ago!

They were clearly put out, having ‘closed down’ for the winter. They appeared to ignore our profuse apologies. I felt about five years old; I expected to be told to stand in the corner…

THE SISTERS QUICKLY ADAPT – I SHRINK…

Nevertheless they quickly adapted and even insisted on coming out to help us with our bags, ignoring our insistence that it was not necessary, as we were only bringing in small knapsacks. I felt awful; a guilty small girl again – and I expect Graham felt the same…

NOT EXPECTED…

“We have not prepared food for you,” said Renee, ushering us into their comfortable sitting room (TV in here – a large one, which was promptly turned off). Their pretty cat came over to greet us – she seemed to remember us from former stays.

“Please don’t worry about food,” I said, remembering the sumptuous four-course feasts they usually provided. “We have little appetite –we’re recovering from ‘flu – but well past passing it on,” I explained hastily. “If it is at all possible just a small bowl of soup each would be welcome – but please don’t go to any trouble.”

I felt pretty certain that such accomplished cooks would have some stock and leftovers or something, which they could quickly rustle up into a soup.

As it was we warmed up in front of a blazing log fire, and in about an hour two welcome bowls of gruel appeared. I wistfully hoped some bread would accompany it, but I guess they had none to spare. BUT- we were given the bedroom on the ground floor, which was a new delight for us (it has an especially lovely bathroom).

A HOUSE WITH A LONG HISTORY

Many centuries ago their house was the living quarters of the monks in the adjoining famous abbey. Then – I do not know how far back, it became the farmhouse for the Villelongue estate and the home of the sisters’ family.

In World War 2 it was taken over by the Maquis – the French Resistance.

HARD WORK – GOOD TASTE – PERFECTION ACHIEVED

All I know is that when the sisters moved back in the house was in a sorry state, with little or no furniture. Now, thanks to very hard work and shrewd buying at auctions etc. it is sympathetically restored, and full of lovely antique furniture. In every spacious room the beds are large and very comfortable, and there are armchairs and coffee tables. (No TV’s though, which did not worry us, as we don’t speak French. We are delighted to enjoy the elegant country lifestyle here instead.)

CLAUDE HAD A GIFT OF RARE WOOD FOR GRAHAM

Claude had emailed in March to say she had some exotic wood for Graham, which was when I had replied to request this booking. It was our fourth stay with them in their historic house, but this time for only one night. (I must confess here that due to the ‘flu we had both forgotten to remind them in advance of this November arrival.)

WE SHARE THE SISTERS’ BREAKFAST

In the morning we were invited to share their breakfast, more modest than in ‘the Season’. But there was still the same delicious crunchy bread, a small selection of local cheeses and their usual range of homemade jams, and even dark orange marmalade (“brought from England by a guest”).

They had quite recovered from their shock and annoyance at us, but Claude shook Graham gently, laughed and said “Next time you come for more than one night. Yes?” So we know that before too long we will have to plan a holiday that takes us to the Midi-Pyrenees again. (Not such a hardship, really…)

NOTE: And we did – we stayed FIVE nights with them in 2018 at their special rate for over three nights.

CLAUDE AND GRAHAM FORAGE IN HER BARN

While I dug out the Euros, Claude led Graham across the garden to their huge barn and the log she had been saving for him (there is generally a gift of interesting wood for my craftsman husband.

This time he had to somehow find room in our overcrowded car for a log of rare Osage Orange (Maclura Pomifera). She cut him a generous length. There was enough to pass some on to my cousin Clive to experiment with in his woodturning (he was thrilled when presented with it upon our return). Also, she insisted we take a small branch of boxwood. I was amazed that Graham managed to find room for it in the back of our car, already piled high with luggage, wine and presents).

They both came out to see us off. This time I ventured to hug them both closely.

THEY HAD NOT EXPECTED A HUG – BUT THEY GOT ONE JUST THE SAME

“You are true good friends,” I told them when they had at last laid down the backpacks they had carried down for us. They both looked slightly startled. “You made Graham special soup last year when he was feeling poorly, and we stayed an extra day without notice. And now we descended on you without proper notice again, and you still made us welcome and went to some trouble for us. I call that true friendship.”

“Then as friends you will stay longer next time,” Renee said with mock-sternness.”

They waited by their gate until Graham had turned our car – then waved us off all the way to the corner in the lane…

And with that I joined Graham in our extremely dusty car, and off we went; to explore Auch, presented as ‘The birthplace of D’Artagnan’, just as though the Fourth Musketeer had existed outside the pages of Alexander Dumas’ book!

TO DISCUSS OR BOOK DIRECTLY: email this address:

Claude ANTOINEvillelongue-cote-jardins@orange.fr

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Feature image

April 18, 2019

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S ‘SOUL’ OF ITALY.

Jackie Usher Food, Food markets, Getting to know the locals, Italian Towns, Local History, Tourist Town Day trip, food, UNESCO World Heritage Site

Wednesday, November 2^nd:

ALIANO – OUR LAST DAY OF EXPLORING BASILICATA

“If we don’t go today, we’ll never see the little town where Carlo Levi was imprisoned,” I told Graham. “I’ve got to do our packing tomorrow – and there’s quite a lot. We’ve spread ourselves over seven weeks. Apart from clothes there’s that thin duvet we brought which has proved so useful, and things like our chest cooler – never really used, but full of veg and bread; and…”

“O.k., oKAY,” he said. “Don’t go on. I thought you couldn’t find Gagliano.”

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S GAGLIANO DISCOVERED

“I told you. He made up the name Gagliano – I discovered that three weeks ago. It’s really called Aliano – and it’s not far. See? And we can call in again at Ferrandina on the way back. You said you wanted to take more photos there. And Pisticci – which Giuseppe said we should visit.”

Thus it was that our last day trip in Basilicata proved to be one of the very best of our many lovely memories of this unique part of Italy.

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S LANDSCAPE: (The feature image at the top of this post was taken from Aliano)

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Centre of Aliano — Centre of Aliano

Sure enough, as we approached the town – less than an hour’s drive away from our base, the landscaped changed. Flattish ‘khaki’ farmland gave way to the bare, grey-white clay hills described and painted by Carlo Levi. We took the winding, narrow road up to the town. We had to park right at the beginning, until we saw a sign that said invalid parking was allowed further in. This was just as well, because we drove quite a way down the main street before we found the Blue Badge Car Park. Even then a quite long walk awaited us.

We had got as far as some railings overlooking a ravine, where men who clearly looked like locals were eating great slices of pizza they had bought at a littlel shop opposite. We were about to go in when I noticed a tiny baker’s shop almost next door.

ALIANO HAS A TRADITIONAL BAKERY

“Just look at those loaves, Graham – and the lovely rolls. They’re almost like our French dinner rolls at home. I’ve never seen them before in Italy.”

So we went into the shop, which was really the bakery. A very small, very old man was bringing loaves out of a brick oven. He used a long shaft (12 feet?) with a paddle at the end, which he manoeuvred carefully under each loaf.

His wife stood behind the modest, L-shaped wooden counter that fronted the place. She smiled and wished us ‘Buongiorno.’ I pointed at a small loaf on the shelf behind her, but was interrupted.

ALIANO – ‘THE SOUL OF ITALY’ IN A BREAD ROLL

I’d hardly noticed a pretty young girl squashed behind Graham until she confronted us and asked,

“Americano?”

“No. Inglese.”

“Aah. You will like Italian bread, then. Inglese know good bread.”

“Some do – a lot just buy wrapped from supermarkets. Silly things.”

“This VERY good bread. I come from Bari whenever I can. This town is SOUL of ITALY!” She threw up her arms. “And this bread the SOUL of the Soul of Italy! Best bread; you taste. Here!”

ALIANO – WE EAT ‘THE SOUL OF ITALY’

And she lifted up the little counter and dived through to a table at the back, bringing out a small bread roll. This she broke open. She then reached across the amused, ageing proprietress and picked up an olive oil dispenser. She doused each side of the little roll, then put her hands into a small pot and sprinkled some finely chopped fresh basil on each half, bit into one and threw up her hands – “Divine!” She then thrust the other half at us.

“The taste of Italy! Eat the SOUL of Italy!”

So we did –

The proprietress beyond the counter grinned at me and spread her hands in that ‘Waddayado’ gesture seen a thousand times in Hollywood films featuring Italian actors.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Clay columns — Clay columns

ALIANO – NO ESCAPE FOR CARLO

After buying our loaf, and receiving hugs and kisses on both cheeks from all present, we made our way to the railings again. Looking over, we saw sharp peaks of that white clay, too perilous to descend by. And there was nothing else – for miles. No wonder that Carlo Levi did not need to be kept confined, for where would there have been to escape to? In those days (1936-1945) there was little traffic, and only the one road down. The extreme other end of the village held only the bleak graveyard, set on a high promontory. And all the surrounding area was well nigh empty – and very poor.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - The piazza — The piazza

ALIANO FRUSTRATION – LEVI MUSEUM CLOSED – BUT STILL WONDROUS

We followed the railings, passing a really exquisite little square. This held the old town hall, and some attractive houses. Not least was ‘The House of the Hundred Eyes’, so called because of its many windows.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - House with a hundred eyes — House with a hundred eyes

Unfortunately, the museum was closed, and so we could not get a guide to take us to view Levi’s lodgings at the time of his ‘imprisonment’. Also closed was the house he later had built. Strangely, he decided to return to this place of ‘exile’. He had made so many friends – and no wonder – he had used his doctor’s skills to treat the poor for no payment.

BUT DID WE SEE THE VIEWS CARLO LEVI HAD SEEN?

But we did see them from the outside. The house where he stayed was substantial and attractive. His own, later dwelling was right on the edge of the escarpment. He would have looked right over a sea of the white clay peaks, caused by too much forest clearance in the past. We wondered if he had lived to see the later changes in the more distant landscape, when topsoil was brought in and fields planted on the plains.

NO WONDER CARLO LEVI DID NOT ATTEMPT ESCAPE

Carrying on down the long main street we came to a bust depicting this great man and benefactor. Just below it were steps to a viewing platform to see to the bottom of the deep gorge. Graham went down, but I stayed up top. I watched people coming away from the ‘castle’ – too late for us. A bell tolled ‘Closing Time’.

DID HIS ‘PRISON’ LOOK AS ATTRACTIVE THEN?

Aliano today is a very clean, bright and pretty town. I can’t help thinking that it must have looked very different to Carlo Levi. That writing, painting, Jewish doctor-activist put it and ‘Lucania’ as Basilicata was known, ‘on the map’. He wrote about his captivity there, and the poverty of the whole region, and most of all – the wretched conditions of those starving souls living in the Sassi of Matera. It was through his book ‘Christ stopped at Eboli’ that new homes were built for the 16,000 odd inhabitants turned out of their wretched cave-dwellings. They were offered the alternative option of passage to America and Australia.

Some, like our friend Vincenzo, came to Britain.

Aliano - Carlo Levi's 'Soul of Italy' - View — Carlo Levi’s ‘Soul of Italy’

LOST IN THE TUNNEL – WE MISSED THE CITTA ANTICA

PISTICCI.

We took a different route back, visiting again (very briefly) Ferrandina. This road first took us through Pisticci. Giuseppe had told us that this town should be on our list. So we were bemused when after entering by a very long tunnel cut through the mountain, we finally ascended to a rather boring, characterless modern street of little shops. We did pass a statue in a small piazza. It did not seem that Pisticci was that special after all. We were just as bewildered as the staring local inhabitants were by us. Clearly, they were not used to foreigners in left-hand drive cars.

The road looped down, and we exited through the same tunnel by which we had entered. We were glad to stop once more in Ferrandina. Later, studying the map carefully, I realised that we had been in Pisticci SCALO – we think it must mean ‘New Town’ and had by-passed the ancient hilltop town, which probably saw numerous tourist coaches.

ALIANO – LAST DISCOVERY IN BASILICATA

It was with sadness that we returned to base that evening. Our stay in Basilicata was at an end. We had grown to love the region – and that love is with us still. The next day (3^rd November) would be taken up with packing and checking the car over for our next long leg – down to the ferry, and then exploring Sicilia (Sicily).

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

July 9, 2018

GIUSEPPE ‘S MASTER CLASS – Cook Pasta – The Italian Way

Jackie Usher Learning to cook the Italian way coffee, food, Pasta

GIUSEPPE’S ‘WAY TO COOK PASTA’

We also bought food supplies including pasta, in order to cook a few of our meals in the saucepans we’d bought in Ikea. There had already been a large pan above the cooker in our kitchen – which turned out to be a (small) pasta pan. Giuseppe taught us how to cook pasta the Italian way: Fast – in gallons of boiling, highly salted water.

THE MANY VARIETIES OF PASTA

We learned something about just how many types of pasta there are, as well as the fancy striped bows and variously coloured ‘wagon wheels’ and other shapes produced for tourists to take home as souvenirs. Italians too, can make or buy various shapes and colours – using spinach, tomatoes, porcini and sometimes lemons to enhance flavour and decorate the plate.

Many of these are regional specialities like my favourite, the tender little Orichietti (little ears) of Apulia; but the main thing to remember is that the tubular shapes, like penne, are generally cooked with thickish, rich sauces that will penetrate them; whereas the thinner, flatter strands like Tagliatelle (Graham’s favourite) and the narrower Tagliolini lend themselves to meaty sauces with maybe chunks of vegetable (and sometimes they are merely mixed into a mixture of pesto and olive oil, or pesto and sparse cream.)

Tagliatellle with Milanese sauce

TAGLIATELLE WITH MILANESE SAUCE

We followed this tasty recipe from a cookbook in English:
(The Italian Kitchen Edited by Gabriella Mariotti. ISBN 1 85967 776 2 ) Annis books.

Firstly, we got busy chopping and slicing the ingredients, which we separated into little bowls, in order to time the entry of each vegetable into the pan; starting as usual with the garlic and onion and celery; the others to be added as and when needed to be

Adding stock to the main ingredients — Adding stock

cooked by the end of half-an-hour’s simmering.

No oil this time, just the required amount of chicken stock.

Once all the vegetables were tender, I poured in the tinned tomatoes and added the tomato puree and herbs and seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

I stirred the mixture from time to time, checking that it was gradually thickening.

Pasta on a rolling boil

After fifteen minutes I dropped the pasta into very well-salted water, and brought it back to a rolling boil. Remove lid, or it will boil all over your stove top!

Note: If you like your pasta al dente, like most Italians, then it may only require ten minutes cooking, after which it can rest, drained, in the colander. If like Graham and I, you prefer it ‘cooked’ and slightly softer, allow a few minutes extra, checking by pulling out a strand or two.

DO YOU TOP YOUR PASTA WITH SAUCE?

One last tip: Giuseppe was most insistent that the last step was for the thoroughly drained pasta to be tipped into the saucepan containing the sauce or other accompaniment, and thoroughly stirred in before removing portions to plates. He deplored ‘how foreigners tip the sauce over the pasta. An Italian will never do that.’ he said.

Before taking this step I removed a little pasta to ‘edge’ each plate, and a small bowl of sauce for garnish.

IS SPAGHETTI AUTHENTIC ITALIAN PASTA?

Note: Italians rarely eat the dried round spaghetti we use in Britain, holding that it is an American invention.

Very special, from the Northwest, is the luxurious and expensive Tajarin L’Uovo, which needs nine egg yolks to one kilo packet (or is it a half-kilo? You can find out on the Internet). The wine Importers Giordano wines often include a packet of this wire-thin, tasty pasta in their boxes of selected wines.

Buon appetito!

The finished dish – ready to eat. Buon Appetito!

EARLY MORNING BOOST – ESPRESSO!

Right from the first day of our stay Graham had got up early and gone downstairs to have an early morning espresso with Giuseppe in his kitchen. He made his coffee in a ‘moka’ pot and almost had a hissy fit when he saw Graham make coffee for the first time, telling him to join him first thing the next morning and he would show him how to make coffee properly in a moka pot (essential, it was clear).

So here are the steps one at a time; since coming home Graham buys already ground coffee (Italian blend in a green pack from Lidl). He swears that it’s pretty good, the coffee being finely ground, as it would be for a proper espresso machine.

NOW GRAHAM TAKES OVER TO TELL YOU HOW GIUSEPPE INSTRUCTED HIM TO MAKE ESPRESSO: –

There are many ways of making coffee so I am not taking it for granted you know what a Moka Pot is, though I’m sure everyone has seen them. They work by heating water in the lower sealed chamber of the pot. When the water is heated enough, the fluid expands and is forced up through to a second chamber containing coffee grounds and on into the the actual coffee pot at the top. It sounds complicated but actually it is very simple, though all you need to know is how to operate it and how to keep it clean.

KEEPING THE MOKA POT CLEAN:

There seem to be two schools of thought on this. One is – That the minimum of cleaning is best. Like an old pipe, the more the pot gets coked up, the better the taste gets. I’m of the other opinion; that a certain amount of washing is necessary for several reasons. First – it is best to keep the water chamber free from lime scale, and in hard water areas this will build. Second – Coffee not only stains – it also leaves an oil and this can go rancid and build up, encasing little grounds of coffee in the corners of the pot and under the seal of the second chamber. Also, there are two filter plates that the water and coffee must pass through and if these aren’t kept clean they can become partially blocked and the pot won’t work so efficiently. If residues are left they can make the coffee bitter.

Clean the pot with hot water and not too much detergent and rinse thoroughly. It is not wise to abrade the surface of the metal, especially the inside, with a scouring pad, as the pot is made of aluminum.

As already mentioned there are three components:-

WATER CHAMBER:

The water container/chamber has a safety valve let into the side. Fill the container with cold water, making sure that the level of the water does not cover the valve set into the side of the container. (See photo and blue line.) This is most important; if for some reason too much pressure builds up because of a blockage this valve will release the pressure in the container. This valve must never be covered with anything either on the inside or the outside.

COFFEE GROUND CUP:

It has a rim and a sieve in the bottom, and underneath a tube a few inches long. The cup fits snugly into the top of the water container.

Make sure the rim of the cup fits evenly on the rim of the water chamber and that no foreign object like coffee grounds has got wedged between the two rims. Now spoon in your coffee until it is level with the rim – then put another heap on top.

The reason behind this is simple. When you go into a cafe the coffee is heaped and then pressed down before it is put to the coffee machine. There is no need to do this with the Moka Pot as the top filter-plate in the underside of the coffee pot will do it for you.

THE COFFEE POT:

The coffee pot with lid screws onto the water chamber. In the underside of the pot is the filter plate already mentioned. This is held in place by a nylon washer which acts as a seal when the two containers are screwed together. Hold the water chamber firmly and screw the pot on until it is tight.

What I’ve written so far is pretty rudimentary, but it should ensure you a nice cup of espresso. Giuseppe was quite adamant about his last instruction:

This was not to put the pot on a fierce flame, but to heat the water gently with a small burner so that only the base of the pot saw the flame, and not the sides. This ensured that the pressure built slowly, pushing most of the water up though the coffee and allowing the grounds to swell and release all their flavours before the liquid carried on up into the pot.

If you open the lid while the pot is on the stove this is what you should see. (be careful – it can spit boiling coffee.)

WE PREPARE FOR ANOTHER ‘VISITOR’

An English friend would arrive a week after Lolly’s departure. Vivien was Graham’s boss when he worked for the National Museums of Liverpool. In the ‘breathing space’ we gradually put all the bed sheets and pillowcases, then batches of our clothes through Giuseppe’s washing machine, to wash out all that dirt and also the Bio laundry products, which had inflamed Graham’s skin. Then on the top-back terrace hung our wet laundry on the short line provided. Graham found some binding string in the basement, which he somehow managed to secure to the wall at one end, and tied to the railing at the other – so the laundry descended in size with the line.

At last we felt that we could spread ourselves, as the flat was now much more comfortable, and Vivien would enjoy her now shipshape room with its French doors onto her very own veranda – and very soon, all the cats. Vivien loves cats…

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

June 12, 2018

BEFORE SAYING GOODBYE TO LOLLY

Jackie Usher Day trips, Restaurants, Tourist Town food, history, shops

MATERA AGAIN- LOLLY SAYING GOODBYE

Monday, 26^th September:

BURNING A HOLE IN HER POCKET

before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-7-Matera — Before-saying goodbye to Lolly we visit Matera again

before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-6-Matera — Two policemen talking to a baker of the famous Matera bread

Lolly would be saying goodbye to us the next evening. Just time on her last day for saying goodbye to Matera. She still had most of her spending money left. It was burning a hole in her pocket. She kept saying she wanted to treat us, so on her last day I suggested that she take it easy visiting the posh squares and streets at the top of Matera. Perhaps we could go for lunch to a restaurant recommended by our Matera guide Andrea – he of the sexy lips!

She readily agreed and certainly enjoyed the lovely piazzas and the fashionable people strolling around. Then we sought and found Andrea’s recommended restaurant.

THE RISTORANTE ‘900’ – EVERY MEAL A FEAST

The ‘900’ is not cheap. It’s classy, but oh so friendly – and the food is great, too. It was the first time we had tasted those long, thin sweet red peppers that come dried only from nearby Senise. They are then brushed with olive oil and crisply grilled, or flash-fried in olive oil. They come hot to the table. A truly local delicacy: Delicioso!

before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-we all visit -Matera — Tourists trudging up to the Duomo

We were greeted by the kindly owner, who explained all the dishes, and later Ferdinando, the chef, came out to be congratulated on his superb local food, presented with artistic flair. I immediately remembered Toto in Cinema Paradiso – Ferdinando looks somehow both like that cute kid and the grown young man. We met his wife, who prepares very pretty starters and desserts. (Graham and I returned twice before we left the area.)

WE EAT DONKEY – AND ENJOY IT!

This time we had roast donkey with porcini – wonderful, tender, succulent meat – neither strong tasting nor sweet as all our English friends ask, their noses wrinkled… They have no idea how delicious!

900 Restaurant, Via Santo Stefano, 31, 75100 Matera MT, Italy. Phone: +39 0835 680527 Reservations: thefork.it

before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-4-Matera — The church of San Francesco of Assisi in Matera

BARI: THE HISTORIC & THE SMART MODERN

before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-Bari — Bari water front

27^th September:

AN ICONIC CITY

before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-8-Bari — The Duomo at-Bari

We went back to Bari the next afternoon in order to see Lolly off on her plane that evening, and were able to at last explore the very beautiful old part of the town with her.

Before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-The rose window in the Duomo-Bari — The rose window in the Duomo-Bari

She enthused on the marbled tiled alleys leading into quaint squares; all of which held surprises – in one case the ancient Duomo (cathedral).

CHEESE & PASTA

We passed a tiny, old-fashioned neighbourhood grocery store, and Lolly insisted that she must buy a certain cheese requested by her sister-in-law, so we went in and had fun trying to get across to the owners just which exact village cheese had been specified. But after much laughter and gesticulations they produced it, by which time Graham had found some sweets and nougat he desired.

before saying goodbye to lolly-8b-Bari — Above one of the doorways at the Duomo in Bari

HANDS FLY MAKING ‘LITTLE EARS’

We left with quite a full carrier bag, but I cannot remember what was in it. Going down the street we felt compelled to stop and watch several older women working hard at little tables, making Piccole Orecchiette, the ‘little ears’ pasta for which the area is famed. Their hands flew as they pressed their thumbs into the little scraps they had shaped – but they were not nearly as fast as a young lady whose hands moved in just a blur; her perfectly formed ‘little ears’ piling up as we watched.

before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-The narrow little alleys in Bari — The narrow little alleys in Bari

We were soon to discover just how delicious and soft those ‘little ears’ are in a good pasta sauce.

before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-12-Bari — The orecchiette makers in Bari

LOLLY GETS EXCITED

At Giuseppe’s request we made another visit to Ikea, restraining Lolly, a typical generous American, from buying stuff for the flat he rents out. She is all heart, and just loves to give. We had to keep reminding her that we must allow time for her to catch her plane back to Frankfurt.

before-saying-goodbye-to-lolly-13-Bari — The tiny grocery store in Bari

CAPERS IN THE AIRPORT

When we got to the airport our irrepressible friend was so euphoric she started showing off to others waiting in ‘the wheelchair lounge’. The Italians looked on, amused and bemused, as she sashayed around singing ‘Red Hot Momma’ songs from her native New Orleans. Of course, as Brits, Graham and I felt somewhat embarrassed and apologetic, in which we were probably quite wrong. But our wretched upbringing forced us to try and quieten our exuberant little friend who took no notice at all. Luckily, at 78 she has the same appeal as puppies and kittens and very small children…

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.