ORNAMENTATION – EXUBERANT BAROQUE OR CLASSICAL GREEK?

 

8^th October:

LECCE.

 

We took friendly leave of our host (despite having paid more than in all the rest of our holiday because he treated Graham and I as ‘singles’. We think this is because he usually fills up with fellow hunters, who are probably single men from the big cities.)

ORNAMENTATION – LECCE IS FULL OF IT!

 

We  turned north west for Lecce, which always enjoys top billing in all the travel brochures; mostly famous for its baroque churches, which are smothered in ornamentation.

It was raining hard when we reached the only likely parking place, which forced us to walk across a dripping park.  LECCE was a great disappointment to all of us.  (The continuing rainstorm did not help).

 

O.T.T. or WHAT?

 

Quite a large city, those most famous baroque churches were crowded in together, as were their bits and pieces of ornamentation, vying with each other for attention.  We agreed that they cancelled each other out.   Graham commented, ‘The sculptors must have been on acid to produce such a proliferation of ornamentation .  The scaffolding for the restoration work doesn’t help.’

Afterwards, we had to walk quite a long way through boring streets to find the next attraction, like the very wide central piazza with two impressive statues at its entrance. (Think it housed the Episcopal Palace).  Some of the ornamentation we found here really pleased us – animal heads with sometimes comical expressions held up along balcony; unusual caryatids.

Nearby was a café that sold ‘Real English Tea’.  We ordered some, which came after a lengthy wait, and the bill had Graham reeling.  (Be warned – they don’t know how to make English tea properly)  Feeling foolish, and ripped off, we turned into a street of craftspeople – and I still wish I had bought some embroidered aprons to take back as gifts; the ornamentation was unusual.

 

A HOLE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CITY

 

The best bit of Lecce for us was a great hole in the middle of a busy crossroads. Peering over the railings one looked down on very impressive Roman ruins.  Quite unexpected and romantic, even  though sans  ornamentation, and to our minds far more interesting than sainted Bishop Orontus atop an immensely tall column nearby.  Also, I was able to buy a good-sized tube of Arnica ointment in one of those smart, specialist shops called L’Erbolario.  You’ll never find a larger selection of natural cosmetics and remedies.

 

 

 

 

METAPONTO

 

TARANTO

 

We went on the country road to Taranto,  passing through Manduria, a surprisingly large town, and then San Giorgio Iconico, clearly  quite poor now; but some street urchins were very polite when we asked the way.

We reached Taranto but did not do more than show Vivien a cursory look at this major resort for the area, which is very like any English South Coast town, except for the palm trees lining the long, wide boulevard.  We looked down from the car onto quite a large industrial port at one end.

It was on our way to Metaponto.  We were anxious for Vivien to visit this very good Ancient Greek site, and particularly wanted to show her the beautiful new museum. 

 

ANCIENT GREEKS AND MODERN MEN.

 

This time we were able to stay longer in the museum, devoted to the Classical Period, and Graham introduced Vivien to the lady at the desk and then the curator, who were both most interested to discuss with the English conservators the local methods of conservation of the interesting objects on show.

 

A WORLD-FAMOUS CLASSICAL COLLECTION

 

Of particular interest is the world-famous collection of Classical Greek pottery; in some examples here the ornamentation exceeded what one has become familiar  with in other museums.   Then there are  the classical temple pillars and the foundations on still other other outside sites nearby, which are extensive and impressive.

 

TINY TEMPLES – MAKE-UP – JEWELLERY

 

While they were all deep in conversation I wandered around on my own and discovered lovely little sculptures of classical temples and goddesses, and numerous examples of classical ornamentation on brooches, hairpins, etc.; and one most delicate and elaborate hair ornament.  This museum is clearly a recent build.  It has been beautifully designed, with large, well-spaced glass cases in an open plan.  Some of the rooms have little strips of fresh green plants to separate different types of object. http://www.aptbasilicata.it/The-National-Museum.553+M52087573ab0.0.html

We then went outside and had fun in the largest site, picking our way over the foundation walls of numerous old Classical temples, and posing by more pillars.  The restaurant near the museum had closed for the afternoon by the time we sought lunch, but we were able to buy citron pressè and sandwiches at a booth just inside the nearby public park.

 

NO WELCOME FOR ONCE

 

That was the evening we sought dinner in our friendly little town of Miglionico, which was on our way back to base.  I remember that when we first took her there Vivien remarked on how I exchanged ‘Buongiorno’ and Buona Sera’ with practically every resident we passed (she thought it excessive, but everybody had greeted us when Graham and I had first entered the place.  Manners are still very important in Italy and Italians are very polite)

We thought we’d take her to eat in the smart Hosteria del Malconsiglio, near the only car park we had so far found available to non-residents.

 

GOOD PIZZA – PRETTY RISTORANTE

 

Graham and I had eaten just pizza in there on our second evening in Basilicata, because we had had a very good lunch earlier that day.  We were charmed by the decor and the friendly, helpful hostess, and determined to go back for dinner sometime, although the menu was not cheap.

We arrived with Vivien a quarter of an hour before opening time.  We were in the middle of a rare thunderstorm. Rain was tipping down, and to Graham’s consternation there was no room in the small car park.  He suggested that Vivien and I wait under the porch until the restaurant opened, as stated on the door, at seven o’clock.

However, when a van drew up and a man started bearing in a great box (looking like it contained a wedding cake) and other supplies, he was very annoyed when we asked if we could now go inside out of the rain.
He snapped, “Come back; open at 8 o’clock”.
“Can we shelter from this downpour?”
“We have nowhere to go in this rain.  No car.”
After several minutes he reluctantly allowed us inside.  We sat at a table, ignored by two young waiters polishing glasses.  They did not even offer us water, and ignored us when we tried to ask for it.

The proprietress did not come in that night, but Graham came back at about 7.30, when he asked to order wine.  This eventually appeared, and at eight o’clock what looked like a football team of young fellows and their friends trooped in and occupied a table along one wall.

 

WE ARE TOTALLY IGNORED

 

They ordered food not on the menu, but they were all served before we were grudgingly asked if we were ‘ready to order’.  We did so, to be told that some dishes were unavailable, and the dishes we did have looked totally different to the attractive food served to another party of four (perhaps a local family?) who had entered well after us.

You hardly ever get this sort of treatment in Italy, but on this holiday there were three occurrences; the other two were in November and in hot tourist spots – and it was right at end-of-season, so no doubt they were tired and had had their share of arrogant tourists (which we are told we are not, by the way.)  Miglionico gets coach parties and there are a few places to stay, I believe – but it is hardly a hot spot.

SADLY – WE NEVER RETURNED

 

Much later we discovered that the restaurant was owned by the baker/confectioner who ran the smart Pasticceria mentioned above.  (The elaborate  ornamentation on some of  the little cakes was something to behold and wonder at.)  He, and the young woman who mainly served the coffee were both charming and attentive.  We did not tell him about our bad treatment by his young waiters, and I deliberately did not put a review of the restaurant on Trip Advisor, because we had ample evidence that (to other people) it gave excellent service and food. 

 

FEASTING WITH FALSTAFF

 

The next time we ate with Vivien in Miglionico it was at Peppino’s, (described at great length in a previous Post.  If you have not read it ‘click here’)  She is the sort of person who appreciates excellence in all its guises, and is content with ‘no-frills’, especially at a good price.  She agreed that ‘Peppino’s is a FIND’.  L’Evoluzione Della Brace

 

HOW I HATED THAT COOKER!

 

We were all having a fabulous holiday.  We cooked a few meals on the strange little cooker in our kitchen.  I never managed to light the gas rings unaided, as I had to hold down and twist the knobs whilst pressing and applying a tiny cigarette lighter, which hurt my fingers.  It had to be held down until the gas popped, then I must quickly reverse the knob before the flame went out.  My old fingers (or my old brain) were not strong enough.

Gas lit, albeit by one of the others, I would cook the produce we’d bought in Miglionico or Grottole that morning.

Thin slices of filet of veal with porcini was a favourite, but some ‘steak’ that proved tough when fried I later cooked with the lovely fresh organic local veg, and it made a welcome stew on a colder evening.  Vivien also cooked once or twice, but on the whole we all loved to ‘eat out’.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.  Except for the photos of the Pasticceria and the National Museum at Metaponto, which were taken from their own sites.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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