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Blois - feature picture Bloise Cathedral

LOIRE VALLEY TO BRION PRES THOUET:

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Loire Valley is justly famous for its Chateaux, wine, pretty villages and lovely scenery.  Unfortunately Graham lost a lot of photos of this trip when he downloaded them and his computer crashed.  This area was among them.

 

 BLOIS RIVER ROAD

 

After our meal we decided to take a little longer, and use the AD152, which snaked alongside the River Loire.  However, because we wanted to avoid spending all that time going back to Ligny, we instead we took the D922, which turned into the D917 to Yvoy-le-Marron.  This proved to be a very small, but very pretty old village, with the tiniest ‘Mairie’ we had ever seen. Soon we passed at least two grand chateaux by a river. This route took us through some nice scenery and a few more villages until we reached La Ferte-St-Cyr, with its two bridges – the lovely, many-arched old one, leading from the ‘old town’, and a magnificent new one, where the arches soared high above the road..  We turned onto the road to Cruoy-sur-Cosson, which joined the river road along the Loire until we shortly found ourselves looking over to Blois, on the other side of the river.

ON THE LOIRE IS BLOIS – A NAME FROM ENGLISH HISTORY LESSONS

 

 

Now Blois was a name I’d often encountered reading the complicated interwoven histories of England and France. The expectation was of a grand city, but looking over, all we could see was what appeared to be a rather large, very grey and huddled town dominated by an enormous cathedral.

 

GREY BLOIS DID NOT TEMPT US

 

 

This edifice is probably very grand, and certainly important historically.  At that time in the afternoon it did not tempt us to go on to the bridge and then double back to explore it.  No doubt we have sadly misjudged Blois – but there is only so much deviating we were prepared to do in that one day.  We chose rather to go off road to pass through Chinon, on another river – the Vienne, and visited all too briefly just once – a long time ago.

  

 

CHINON – RICHARD WOZ ERE:

 

Chinon bears definite marks of the Plantagenets – particularly Richard the Lionheart, who in my schooldays had been given a much better press than he deserved, as he was only ever six months in England.  Nevertheless, he was presented to us as a romantic figure!

 

CHINON CASTLE AS IN THE FILM ‘THE LION IN WINTER’

 

 

Also, I hoped to establish whether or not the castle depicted in one of my favourite films – ‘The Lion in Winter,’ was authentic, and if it still survived intact.  Happily, it has – although we did not see it on this occasion, as time was pressing.  We promised ourselves to return the next day, but as so often during holidays we never did.  It still remains to be discovered by us…
The plot of the film relayed the squabbles when Henry11 released his imprisoned wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine to join him and their three remaining sons – Richard, Geoffrey and John, for Christmas celebrations.  The hidden agenda was to discuss the division of lands amongst them, and settle on Henry’s successor; who, of course, was Richard.  They were a feisty family.

 

 

 AZAY-LE-RIDEAU – GOOD SMALL HOTEL – CHARMING LITTLE TOWN

Azay-le-Rideau - Azay-le-Rideau
Azay-le-Rideau

 

 

Back on the road we experienced some deja-vu as our road ran straight through Azay-le-Rideau, and glancing up a side street I saw, as expected, the sign of the little hotel where we’d stayed two years before.  I tried to alert Graham, but he quickly snapped, “I’m too busy driving to look.  What of it?”  After all these years I should have known better than to try and distract him.

 

BRION-PRÈS-THOUET – WE ARRIVE TO A WARM WELCOME:

 

Blois - Evening glow over rapeseed fields
Evening glow over rape seed fields

 

We finally arrived at our destination; Brion-près-Thouet, just as the sun had set.  We searched in vain for the street with our B&B, even Miss SatNav was stumped.  After asking for help we were given minute instructions by a genial couple out for a stroll.  Our ‘street’ was more of a short alley between two buildings – one of which had clearly been empty for years.
Hidden to one side we spotted a pretty little gate in the stone hedge.  It led almost straight onto an attractive small house – or large cottage.  The frontage was nicely paved and flowers were everywhere.

 

BRION-PRÈS-THOUET – GLAMOUR QUEEN IN RURAL FRANCE

 

I rang the bell. The door flew open, held by an exceptionally pretty woman. Though clearly a retiree, she exuded glamour.  I wondered if she had been on the stage or in films.

“Yvonne?” I enquired, and to my surprise her assent came in English.

Now, over the years I have learned to book with the natives of any country I am in.  British B&B hosts abroad tend, on the whole, to be as greedy as  at home; overcharging and often offering mean breakfasts.

Not so here: Yvonne gave the lie to all that.

 

BRION-PRÈS-THOUET – A REAL ENGLISH ‘CUPPA’

 

She immediately offered good English tea and little cakes, after which she took us up to one of the two charming guest bedrooms. Both were tastefully decorated in period style, with some very nice ornaments.
Stephen, her husband is a very genial and interesting man.  After a distinguished career in South Africa he became Mayor of Lambeth – and in Millenium year, too…

 

AN UNAVOIDABLE FEATURE:

 

Yvonne was very apologetic that we had to descend a winding staircase to use the guest shower room, placed at the end of the large and comfortable guest sitting room.

 

SUPER SHOWER ROOM – LUXURIOUS BEAUTY PRODUCTS

 

A very attractive and well-designed facility, the shower stall was full of top-of-the range products for body and hair.  I delighted in using them all.

 

STAIRCASE – ELEGANT AND SAFE

 

The staircase had a very good, sturdy though beautiful banister rail.  We would be undisturbed, and hopefully not disturb others, when we needed to use the loo in the night.  Really – everything had been thought of to provide for the comfort of their guests, even to those little touches of luxury.

 

BRION-PRÈS-THOUET – MORE B&B HOSTS BECOME FRIENDS

 

We soon became friends with these kindly and affable hosts. We certainly hope to return if my health allows.  We can confidently recommend – Le Trois Puits, 2 Rue de la Civette, 79290 Brion-près-Thouet, France.

 

Blois - Le Pont De Taizon - 13th century
Le Pont De Taizon – 13th century

 

THE HISTORICAL BRIDGE AT TAIZON.

Blois - The Mill at Le Pont De Taizon
The Mill at Le Pont De Taizon

 

A few miles from Brion-pres-Thouet is the bridge pictured above.  It was built in the 13th century to span the river Thouet and was a “tithe” bridge.  German troops partially destroyed it in August 1944.  It was restored in 1966 but not to carry traffic.
It is characteristic of the area, and the largest medieval bridge preserved in Thouarsais: Registered in the supplementary inventory of Historical Monuments since 1943.  Close to this is an old mill.

 

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Orleans - Orleans cathedral - feature image

ORLEANS

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5th-8th May

 

 

ORLEANS IS ALL ABOUT ST JOAN!

Statue of Joan of Arc at Rheims
Statue of Joan of Arc at Rheims

 

 

We left Ver-le-Chartres in the morning, intent on re-visiting Joan of Arc’s city of Orleans, where she led the French army to finally rout the English invaders. The city has so many relics of her, including the house she made her headquarters when she was riding high.  This 17-year old peasant girl had led the French army to defeat the English, and saw the crown placed on the head of the Dauphin in Rheims, where on a previous holiday Graham snapped one of her most delightful statues. (click here to see that blog)

 

 

 

Orleans - Where Joan of Arc stayed
Where Joan of Arc stayed

ORLEANS – SAINT JOAN OF ARC’S HOUSE.

 

 ON A PREVIOUS HOLIDAY…

We had already spent one morning in Orleans in 2015, where we had concentrated on the beautiful Cathedral.  (Click here to see that Blog)  (Because the sun was behind it when Graham took the photograph above, you can not appreciate the striking whiteness of its stone.)   Also, we had visited the Place de Martyrs with its large and impressive statue of Joan, sword in hand, astride her horse.

 

MORE PLACES TO SEE

 

Now we were  anxious to see the medieval old centre.

This time we walked different streets, and presently came upon a very old half-timbered house.  The plaque on the door announced its importance:

‘Maison de Jeanne d’Arc’

 

ORLEANS – SURELY ST JEANNE D’ARC’S HOUSE DESERVES FRESH FLOWERS?

 

 

We had found the house that Joan had made her headquarters.  The frontage was decorated lavishly with troughs of plastic flowers.  Surely Orleans is an important enough city to have afforded to grow a few fresh ones… Anyway, here I am, standing outside.

 

ORLEANS – THE MEDIEVAL STREETS

 

There were several medieval streets, but somehow they looked over-restored, and every ground floor had been taken over and altered for shops and cafes, etc.

 

 

 

Orleans - Shopping area free of traffic
Shopping area free of traffic

ORLEANS – WHO VISITS THE LAND OF GOURMETS TO DEMAND FISH’N’CHIPS?

 

 

One place actually had a sign in English boasting ‘Fish and Chips and Chicken and Chips’.  It made me curl in shame for any of my compatriots who would need such rubbish in France; famous the world over for its gastronomy.

 

 

ORLEANS – CLEARING MY PATH:

 

 

As I scooted along I found an animated group of people chatting all across the pavement–cum-road.  All noticed me except one voluble chap.  Nobody could grab his attention so I shouted ‘Beep-beep’ to the amusement of all his friends.  It shifted him.

 

 

ORLEANS – PHOTOGRAPHING THE CATHEDRAL

Then we sought out the cathedral so that Graham could use his new camera to take better pictures.  By this time we decided we had seen enough of Orleans for that day – Graham had done a lot of walking, and I was tired.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Chartres - Inside Chartres Cathedral

CHARTRES

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4th May 2018

 

Chartres - Old Bridge at Chartres
Old Bridge at Chartres

CHARTRES COBBLES – MASSAGING MY KIDNEYS

 

We entered Chartres early that evening at the river end.  Unknowingly, we had chosen the most difficult route to the Cathedral.  It stands high above the town at the end of a long, steep, winding, cobbled hill.   This ancient thoroughfare caused my scooter to judder alarmingly.  It sent shivery thrills right through my body, starting at the soles of my feet.  I hardly noticed that we were passing through the old medieval city…

 

Chartres - An old building at Chartres
An old building in Chartres

CHARTRES CATHEDRAL – SMALLER THAN MOST – BUT BEAUTIFUL

 

However, we reached the top, and entered the cathedral.  It was strangely empty compared to many.

 

 

 

 

CHARTRES’ FAMOUS ORGAN:

Chartres - The Famous Organ
The Famous Organ

 

 

The famous organ, upon which Albert Schweitzer played many times, was very large. It seemed to have been plonked halfway up one of the extremely high pillars.

 

Chartres - Stain Glass Window
Stained Glass Window

CHARTRES CATHEDRAL’S STAINED GLASS

 

 

There were a lot of beautiful stained glass windows; not least the rose window over the main door; most impressive was the circle of windows backing the altar, and fronting a large statue of a flying angel.  The colours flooding in were spectacular.

 

CHARTRES CATHEDRAL – WE MISS THE MOSAIC FLOOR

 

 

I wished that the famous floor tiled in a prehistoric maze pattern had not been covered with chairs.  It always strikes me as funny – and encouragingly subversive – how so much pre-Christian stuff seems to seep into cathedrals. (The Green Man is hidden in both Winchester and Canterbury cathedrals back home).

 

CHARTRES – A PARADE GROUND ATOP THE CITY

 

 

We emerged to explore views seen from the ‘parade ground’ of a seminary or suchlike, next to the cathedral.   Then it was time to start looking for food.

 

Chartres - A Shaded area behind the Cathedral
A shaded area behind the Cathedral

 

CHARTRES – AUTHENTIC LOCAL FOOD NO DEARER THAN ‘FAST-FOOD’

Chartres - View from Dinning Room
View from Dining Room

 

 

I’d already spotted a board with authentic local dishes standing outside an old house right opposite the ‘back door’ of the cathedral.  Graham had demurred, thinking it too expensive, and set off to explore ‘that road with all the restaurants’.  I let him go, knowing that he would find ‘chips with everything’ at exactly the same prices as asked here.

 

After a bit I went to meet him, and he had to agree that I’d spotted the better place.  And so it proved.

CHARTRES – HAUTE-GOURMET MEAL – AFFORDABLE PRICE

 

Chartres - Le Cloitre Gourmand Restaurant
Le Cloitre Gourmand Restaurant

 

 

The very welcoming host ushered us into a room with very old wood panelling.  It held only four or five tables, two of which were already occupied.  The menu had three choices of entrée, and similar of Plat de Jour and dessert.  There was a wine list, and the owner-chef suggested we try a local wine with our meal; and indeed, his choice proved very good with the exquisite gourmet food, which we enjoyed along with conversation from our fellow-diners, who all spoke English.

Le Cloitre Gourmand Restaurant: 21 Cloître Notre Dame, 28000 Chartres, France

 

 

CHARTRES CATHEDRAL – A LIGHT SHOW

 

Chartres - Chartres en lumières – the colourful north side of the cathedral
Chartres en lumières – the colourful north side of the cathedral

 

 

The icing on the cake was when our host diverted our attention to the window, where the entrance to the cathedral was displaying a light show; painting the saints in their robes with shifting blocks of colour.  He was clever. Soon he was able to close up when his clientele all paid up and moved en bloc just outside. The recent diners mingled with school children who had been brought to view the show.  After a while, Graham walked down alone to the car, left by the river, to drive it up the ‘easy’ way – right behind where we had just dined…

We both want to return to Chartres.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Grateful Thanks to Sarah Coppack (Own Your Days) Blog for her permission to use – Chartres en lumières – the colourful north side of the cathedral

 

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TOURING FRANCE IN MAY 2018 - New Brighton Light House

TOURING FRANCE IN MAY 2018

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WIRRAL- M25 –FOLKESTONE

 

1st MAY:

 

BUSY M6 IS NOT ALWAYS FASTEST

 

 

We left our home on the Wirral at about 10.00am on a Tuesday morning to start our holiday touring France:  May Day 2018, to be precise. Woman’s Hour had just started on our car radio.  We enjoyed the fresh yellowy-green of the new leaves on the trees lining our route on our comfortable local M53.  Then we veered off onto our chosen ‘country’ route (the A51.)

We went through pretty villages all the way to Stone, where we changed to the M6 toll (worth the charge).  The exit would join us up with the M40.

 

WRONG TURNING – GRAHAM OR MISS SATNAV?

 

Only it didn’t – because Graham took the wrong turning and we were heading for the M1… However, it took less than an hour to weave our way back, and all went well until we reluctantly entered the M25.

 

M25 – REALLY, TRULY – AVOID THE RUSH HOURS!

 

The delay had landed us into the evening rush hour.   Of course, a measure of frustration, but it could have been worse, and we arrived at Folkestone around 7pm.

 

FOLKSTONE – FIRST STOP

 

I had decided to spend the first night in Folkestone in order to catch the 10.40am Dover to Calais ferry.  DFDS offered the best crossing price,and in Folkestone I found a really cheap hotel for the overnight stop.  Dover tends to be more expensive, and I like to save money on the first and last legs of our journeys, when we are intent on ‘getting somewhere’.

 

 

FOLKESTONE

 

FOLKESTONE deserves to be written of in its own right.  This is a ‘special’ town in my estimation.

We entered via the ‘posh’ end; well preserved Victorian boarding houses and streets of impressive family homes.   The road in was interspersed with beds of tulips – either red and yellow variety or pink.  I cannot remember – only that they showed this town was not down-at-heel, as we had sadly found Hastings to be the previous autumn.

 

BRAVE SURVIVORS OF THE BATTLE OF BRITAIN:

 

We were booked in at the grandly named Carlton Hotel.  We discovered it to be one of the two very early Victorian survivors standing like two sound front teeth at the front of a mouth full of stumps and gaps. The ‘stumps’ were rather ugly in-fills of the 1950’s and ‘60’s.  These two old, tall white buildings had obviously once been part of a grand terrace that ran along the very top of the white cliffs.  They were conveniently above the lift and the funicular railway that took the residents down to the shingle beach far below.

 

AN EXCELLENT MIDDLE-EASTERN MEAL.

 

We checked in, and immediately went in search of food.  We walked down ‘into town’.  Only I imagine it wasn’t, because it was empty at eight pm, and we saw no restaurants.  After walking several streets we turned back up to the clifftop and our hotel.

On the corner we spotted a Middle Eastern restaurant.  Okay, not the hearty steak I was visualising – but we like Arab food.  The place looked cheerily colourful.

As soon as we crossed the threshold we were greeted with a wide smile and words of welcome, and shown to a pretty little inlaid table.  Immediately iced water and a tray of nibbles was set before us, followed by the menus.

From first to last, this was the most delicious Middle Eastern meal we had ever eaten, we agreed.  We left the girl a generous tip, and went up to thank the chefs cooking in full view.  We have vowed that if we are able to return to Folkestone we will certainly book a table at this resturant:

Aspendos Turkish Restaurant,  West Terrace, Folkestone. 01303 241688

 

 

 

WIRRAL- M25 –FOLKESTONE - Bandstand
Bandstand

I IMAGINE THE PAST GLORIES OF THIS ROAD

 

We decided to walk off our meal by exploring the cliff-top path that ran close by our hotel’s road.

In my mind’s eye I could trace that grass-fronted terrace right down to the West end.  I imagined pretty Regency hostelries, because, still intact, an exquisitely delicate Regency bandstand still graced the lawn at the cliff edge. (I imagine it must have been removed to a safe place during the wars, and replaced later.)

 

 

FOLKESTONE REMEMBERS

 

 

 At the other end of the terrace, we were surprised, on a late evening walk, to arrive at a quite large paved square.  It contained chairs built in along its walls on one side:  A very high, very thin arch of polished steel dominated it.  Upon closer inspection, this was studded with jewel-like tiny lights, or reflectors – I cannot quite remember which.

 

WIRRAL- M25 –FOLKESTONE - Memorial Arch
Memorial Arch

 

 

THE BRAVE BOYS OF THE RAF

 

We discovered a plaque nearby.  It told us that this was Folkestone’s tribute to all the brave boys of our RAF Fighter Squadrons, who daily and nightly fought and died – often in front of the sight of the town.

These young men (some teenagers) were not only fending off German bombers from our shores.  There were also ‘planes carrying paratroopers intent on landing.  The residents of Folkestone saw much of this activity at close hand.  Many fell victim when surplus German bombs were released on our cliff-top towns before the enemy headed back to their airfields on the continent.  Our hotel’s ‘makeshift’ road bore ample witness…

 

IN FOLKESTONE THEY STILL CROCHET POPPIES:

 

It was too dark to read the plaques on every seat. I feel I must go back to discover if they commemorate residents who died in the raids or the many RAF squadrons who sacrificed their very young lives so that we might live.  In any case – Folkestone still remembers them. The proof is a hedge that is thickly strewn with hand-crocheted poppies, many faded and fading, but topped with newly wrought scarlet wool flowers.  It was all very moving.

 

OUR HOTEL – SAD SURVIVOR OF WAR

 

Our hotel had seen better days.  The interior as you entered was gloomy with a mainly black wallpaper, and the ground floor had been ‘filled in’ to create more small rooms.  However, our bedroom was clean and cheerful, though the en-suite’ had been created from a cupboard, and our bed was lumpy.  Sadly, I have to say that we did not sleep well.

Even so, I count it a privilege to have stayed in this ‘survivor’ from better Days.  It would once have been one of the most prestigious places to stay, I imagine.  Right now, the Eastern European manager could not have been more kind and helpful.

 

COURAGEOUS FOLKESTONE – A SUGGESTION:

 

  I feel that the town should buy this building and the identical one next to it, and have the two restored and used as a museum charting the history of the town and this cliff-top road in particular.

I am old enough to remember the days when families would huddle over their breakfast table, conversing in whispers, in order not to ‘disturb’ the similar family at the next table.  It still strikes me as an absurd illustration of the British in the 1930’s, ‘40’s and ‘50s – just like Father’s knotted handkerchief protecting his bald patch when paddling.

I salute Folkestone: A brave town that has survived most terrible losses and come up smiling… Smart and vigorous – and it still remembers and celebrates those who fought so hard overhead

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Otranto - Harbour

OTRANTO

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STAYING WITH NEW FRIEND LUCIO

 

Meanwhile, we three carried on down to Otranto, where we had booked two nights with Lucio the hunter.  He who, you may remember, we had met when we took Lolly to eat at Peppino’s.  (Also, from the information on Lucio’s business card, our new host was quite big in banking.)

We had a very quick look around the town, which was just as well, because we had difficulty in finding the right road for Lucio’s farmhouse.  Eventually Graham ‘phoned him for directions, and we found him waiting for us on the ‘main road’ where he hopped into our car to ‘talk us’ to our destination.

The ‘farmhouse’ was quite small, but had a nice, covered area for outside living.

We were taken inside and shown to our small but attractive bedrooms, both en-suite, to refresh ourselves and change for dinner.  Afterwards, we relaxed in the comfortable lounge with aperitifs.  The art on the walls (all depicting a hunting interest,) and the large, solid furnishings, declared that this was clearly a man’s home.

 

A MEMORABLE MEAL

 

I must tell you of the memorable meal we all enjoyed.

Lucio’s girl friend was there when we arrived, and that evening cooked some very good pasta with lamb and porcini; but his friends brought the piece-de-la-resistance.

They arrived bearing an enormous dish of delicately cooked seafood, caught by them that very afternoon. We had brought wine; almost sufficient for that company – but enough wine is never a problem in Italy.  Everyone spoke English, and that meal was very convivial, with lots of laughter.  We have learned that Italian and English people have a similar sense of humour.

 

MORE SMALL TOWN APPEAL – A MOORISH PALACE BY THE SEA

 

OTRANTO - The once hotel-Mosque
The once hotel-Mosque

The next morning we found Vivien and Lucio busy weeding in his garden.  After we had managed to extract her and have a quick breakfast, we took a trip down the coast.  There was something special we wanted to show Vivien.  At the small, smart resort of Santa Cesaria Terme we stopped to look at a fabulous hotel on the edge of a cliff, which had been built to resemble a beautiful mosque, or Moorish palace.

When Graham and I first spotted it in 2011 you could see it from further up the coast.  On first sighting it was gobsmackingly strange and beautiful, painted in various exotic colours.  To our dismay, this time we found that the restoration work had ceased and vandals had helped to wreck it.  The lovely colours were all faded.  We could have cried, and the surprising impact we’d planned for Vivien was diminished. However, we bought lovely fresh figs and other fruit from a street vendor.

 

SMALL TOWN APPEAL  – IS CASTRO APULIA’S SMALLEST RESORT?

 

OTRANTO - Castro restaurant
Castro restaurant

A bit further down the road we spotted an attractive bar, just outside the old city wall.  The courtyard seating, set within  shrubs, had a good view of the water gently lapping the rocks.  The enclosure was almost full of happily chatting people, and there were good smells drifting into our car.

‘Time for lunch’, I think’, said Graham, and by mutual agreement we all tumbled out .

We found a table, and upon studying the menu, Vivien gave a cry of delight.  ‘They have a great variety of tapas,’ she announced.

That sounded perfect.  Three choices each, and we’d all share.

Well – I still remember that lunch as a mini-feast.  We were all quite stuffed by the time all the little dishes were emptied.

It was agreed that we could all do with a walk.  Of course, I was a  bit slow, and tired first, so I took the car keys and left the others to quicken their pace to take them round a bit further.  It did not take them long to circumnavigate the whole huddle of dwellings.

Bar Fonte Dei Messapi – Piazza Armando Perotti, 73030 Castro, Italy – +39 388 871 0982

 

SMALL TOWN APPEAL IN APULIA ENCHANTS - Lizard

 

LITTLE BOATS – LARGE LIZARDS & LOOMING TOWERS

 

Meeting back at the car we discussed what to do next.  Vivien said she’d welcome a really good look round Otranto.  Graham and I had already previously driven down this coast, so we readily agreed.

OTRANTO - Old-defensive-tower
Old-defensive-tower

‘Can we stop and look at one of those strange stone towers on the edge of the cliffs?’ I asked.  I had been intrigued with them the first time we’d seen them in 2011, and again, that day, on the way down.

Returning up the coast, the sun shining hotly again, we turned off the road onto a rocky outcrop which jutted into the sea.   While Graham and Vivien climbed up to look at one of the unique stone towers which line that part of the coast,  I returned to the rough track.  Looking over the shoulder-high wall I found a hidden cove huddled down amongst the base of the steep cliffs upon which we were perched.   Little boats moved lazily in and out, and a small motor boat was circling round and round, while a girl standing on the highest rock tracked it with her camera.

When the others joined me we all became fascinated by a family of lizards.  One was quite enormous.  They regarded us with the same curiosity we extended to them.

 

SMALL TOWN APPEAL – BUYING CHRISTMAS GIFTS IN OTRANTO

 

OTRANTO - Otranto-city-walls
Otranto-city-walls

It was mid-afternoon by the time we parked on the quayside.  Otranto is a very lovely town, full of diamond-flagged grand boulevards, and piazzas of pretty pinky-white stone; also those steep little streets of whitewashed houses.  There was a beautiful old castle, which I explored with Vivien while Graham went his own way to take photographs. (He has only just confessed to spending the whole time relaxing in the shade outside a nearby bar, swallowing cold beers.)

OTRANTO - Time to wander in Otranto
Time to wander in Otranto

In the upper town we found many small, whitewashed shops in the narrow lanes.   We all saw nice souvenirs, like clothes being sold off cheaply at end-of-season.   I bought some more Christmas gifts (mainly jewellery)and again wished we could have found room in our car for some of the colourful local pottery.  We may find many more examples of the potter’s art in this area if we are ever able to return.

 SMALL TOWN APPEAL – IMPORTANT TREASURE – DON’T MISS THIS – 11thC MOSAIC

 

But the abiding memory of this town is the vast 11th century mosaic covering the entire floor of the old Duomo, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunciata:

This enormous work was executed by one 11th century monk.

The church is now emptied of pews and altar so that visitors can walk round the edges and marvel at the beauty and detail of this colourful and sometimes quirky depiction of ‘The Tree of Life’.  It is a beautiful cathedral with arched alcoves down one side, where we descended to the crypt, where there was a good exhibition about the history – and that of the town, too.

OTRANTO - Tree-of-life
Tree-of-life

BELIEVE ME – WEEDS TASTE LIKE WEEDS

 

Lucio’s girlfriend had left that morning, and Vivien and Lucio told us that they would prepare dinner.  We heard earnest discussion emanating from the kitchen, and wondered what they had in store for us.

I won’t say whose idea it was to serve weeds up for our evening meal – just that Graham and I later agreed (with grimaces) that they still tasted like weeds – somewhat bitter, however ECO-FRIENDLY they may be.  Unfortunately, Graham didn’t take a photo; but needless to say, his good description of the vegetables was ‘nappy-green sludge’.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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tunnel-to-adventure-21-Argenton-sur-Creuse

COUNTRY ROUTE TO SORGES

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DAY 4: 6th September:

 

DREADFUL BREAKFAST – EARLIEST START

 

After F1’s ‘Healthy breakfast’ of cornflakes, undrinkable coffee and a tiny, limp croissant (€7 each) that day’s country route to Sorges was the most scenic so far.  The A20/A9 took us through the spectacular ‘Dordogneshire’ countryside.  Majestic trees, gorges, cliffs, rivers – ooh, I could go on…

EARLY ENOUGH TO SEE BREAD PULLED FROM OVEN –

 

This was our earliest start by far. (7.30am).  We found a misty back road, and soon reached a small village.  School buses drew up in the square as we parked outside a tiny, old-fashioned bake house.  We could see inside to where a man had just opened a small door in the wall.  He then went back to where very long-poled ‘paddles’ were hanging from hooks in the high rafters. He selected one (the four-foot paddle made the whole tool measure at least sixteen feet.)  He pushed it into the oven and started drawing out aromatic loaves of bread.

AND PASTRIES GRABBED BY HUNGRY SCHOOLBOYS

 

We stood in the entrance to a miniscule ‘shop’, hoping to buy one, but were suddenly bypassed by a large posse of schoolboys, who suddenly appeared with jam tarts and similar goodies in their hands.  These were unwrapped, because they were wolfing them down as they streamed back to their buses, which promptly drove off.  We gladly accepted  small, very strong coffees in paper cups.

 

 

ARGENTON-SUR-CREUSE

 

SPECTACULAR VIEW FROM THE BRIDGE

 

This was the start of the spectacular scenery and romantic chateaux on this country route to Sorge.  But what stood out for us was when, right on the road, we came upon the small town of Argenton-Sur-Creuse (as per my planned itinerary).  Parking in a side street with houses of mixed age, we walked round for a bit, looking for the river, and Graham suggested taking the next turning.  I was reluctant, feeling tired – but how wrong I was!  We found ourselves by a lovely old bridge, and there were truly ancient houses rising straight out of the water on one side.

Country Route to Sorges -Argenton-Sur-Creuse-roof-tops
A patch work of rooftops at Argenton-sur-Creuse – another medieval town on route

 

The opposite bank had grander buildings and trees, and a golden statue of the La Bonne Dame winked in the sun from its perch atop a high bell tower.

 

GRAHAM TAKES PHOTOS – I FIND A HANDY BAR

 

While Graham took photos from the bridge I turned into the narrow, cobbled street and found a tiny bar.  I yet again badly needed of a toilet – a tedious priority of advancing years.

 

AN UNUSUAL LOCAL BAR

 

I was intrigued by the bar, which was run by an ageing lady who by her makeup and dress must have been called Fifi.  Why do I say this? Because there was something racy about the scarlet interior.  The walls were smothered with photographs of bygone glories, including lots of famous jazz players.  I could smell strong perfume as she ushered me through a bead curtain to a tiny but very clean loo in the back.

 

CAFFE-CLACKING

 

When I returned I was greeted in English by three mature lady shoppers enjoying their coffee.  The hostess joined in whilst washing and shredding large lettuces that looked as if pulled from the ground ten minutes before.

Country Route to Sorges-Argenton-Sur-Creuse-Mill
The old mill sitting in still waters at Argenton-Sur-Creuse

 

Graham later joined us and we had an enjoyable morning break, drinking coffee and chatting.  Two elderly gentlemen came in and gave us much local information and history.

 

 SHADY RIVERSIDE WALK

 

Before getting back on the road, because we had ample time, we took a good walk along the shady, tree-lined riverbank in the opposite direction, and Graham took several photos, both looking back and over the river, but principally of two mills – one on each bank.  (One is on the slider on the Home page.)

Country Route to Sorges-Thiviers
The high church tower at Thiviers that overshadowed our route

We got talking to a local lady walking her dog.

 

A HIGH-CLASS BOULANGERIE

 

This must have been the day we stopped to lunch in the dining room of a high-class boulangerie further along on the road – and very good it was.  Because of the extreme heat we bought baguettes for our evening meal, feeling that possibly we could not face a large, beautiful dinner that evening.  Into the cool box they went, to be eaten later with tomatoes and grapes.

The country road A9 took us through Thiviers, which had an enormous church tower, and an impressive chateau- seen from our car.

Memory then  aided us in finding our special hideaway discovered two years before: Le Grain D’Art, Sorges.

 

 

 

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Rouen & French Aires - Timber Framed Houses in Rouen

Rouen & French Aires

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LAST DAY:  WE TREASURE WONDERFUL FRENCH ‘AIRES’ –  & ROUEN.

 

28th November:

 

tunnel-to-adventure
Typical sign indicating to an Aire

We planned stopping at Rouen only for lunch. We had a long trip ahead – nearly 6 hours to reach Calais; even on the Toll road A28.  Depending on good weather and no hitches, that is.

Let me mention here how all French Toll roads, (as well as a few others) have at reasonable intervals (20-30 miles usually) wonderful resting-places called ‘Aires’.  Some have woodland walks; all provide picnic tables and always good clean loos.  (Congratulations to the French public for respecting the needs of others.)   Many Aires also provide drinking water and showers – all free.  We really treasure these stops, and congratulate the French road designers for anticipating the needs of travellers.

 

We were still feeling a bit beaten-up after the ‘flu, and the weather had suddenly turned from 25 Centigrade in St Emilion to 10C.   A big jump in two days, so all we remember of an otherwise unremarkable journey on the highway is the number of those wonderful ‘Aires’ en route.  Those – and the barely-glimpsed city of Rouen.

 

 

Rouen & French Aires - The Great Clock on the Rue du Gros-Horloge - Rouen
The Great Clock on the Rue du Gros-Horloge – Rouen

ROUEN – WE WANT TO SEE MORE

 

We find to our chagrin that in mid-April 2017, as I came to the end of my account, that neither Graham nor I could remember any detail of Rouen, except that we liked it very much.  We decided it would be an easy place to go back to for a few days or a week, as it beckoned further investigation.  (See later blog of 2018 tour of France; coming soon.)

 

We parked somewhere near the cathedral and walked back to a promising-looking restaurant I had seen on a corner.

 

 

ROUEN – GREAT CHEAP LUNCH – GOOD FOOD – SERVICE –AMOSPHERE

 

Indeed it was. We were very lucky to get seats at a table by the window, because this was evidently where the local office and shop workers lunched.  There was a constant stream.  None of the staff spoke English, but there was a menu board with four choices for each course, and iced water and wine stood on every table.  Le cap vers – 13 Rue de la République

 

 

OFFICE WORKER’S LUNCH – HAPPY TO WAIT OUR TURN

 

We indicated to the staff that we were happy to wait while they attended a large table of friends who had gathered to share their hurried lunch.  And so, after a while we were rewarded with excellent friendly service after choosing our meals (at random) from the blackboard placed in front of us.  Our food was delicious and very cheap – a lovely Last Lunch in La Belle France.  If we do get back to Rouen, we will look for that café again.

So many pleasant experiences over the years have changed our previous (unfair) idea of Normandy as a flat landscape with only endless tragic war graves to draw one there!

Sorry, Normandy.  We bow our heads in abject apology.  Your towns and villages still have an amazing amount of lovely medieval buildings – and your museums offer such rich history.

Above all: Your people have always made us very welcome.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Azay-le-Rideau - River Dronne

AZAY-LE-RIDEAU – THERE’S A SMALL HOTEL…

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27th November

 

ON THE ROAD AGAIN 

 

Azay-le-Rideau - The Bridge over River Dronne
The Bridge over River Dronne

Azay-le-Rideau was where we had booked at a very small hotel for our next nights stay ; in itself a very modest town off the main road to Tours.  Leaving St Emilion we took the D674 road to Angouleme

 

 EN-ROUTE – LA ROCHE CHALAIS

 

En route, we stoppped off for a coffee and a quick bite for breakfast at La Roche-Chalais.  Early Sunday morning found a cafe open close to the church on the high ground.  It overlooked the river Dronne, which  from our viewpoint appeared quite wide.   A bridge with an impressive, single arching span crossed it.

 

ANGOULEME – the original home of the Plantagenets.

 

 

(Disappointingly, when we reached Angouleme we saw no trace of that fierce medieval Royal Family in both France and England.  Athough we passed a castle it did not appear to be open to the public.)

We stopped for an hour or so, seeking lunch.    Our road dictated us winding up and up, past a lovely covered market.  We looked in vain for somewhere to park nearby, even turning back and driving in a loop.

Carrying on up the narrow hill we finally found a large open ‘Place’ surrounded by grand civic buildings.   We were fortunate to park in a tiny side street, after first checking with a local lady.  I noticed a sign pointing to The Ramparts, so urged Graham to just walk round the corner to see.

 

 

Azay-le-Rideau - ANGOULEME - Avenue des Maréchaux
Angouleme – Avenue des Maréchaux

ANGOULEME – A GRAND PROMENADE – AND A GREAT VIEW

 

We found ourselves in a wide street bordered on one side by railings.  Looking over, you could see far below to a street of grand houses.   A little further on was a large monument, with people seated on and near it, eating sandwiches.

Thinking of our time, Graham went back and fetched the remains of our good boulangerie breakfast and bottled water.  We enjoyed this looking out over a wide view of a green park and golf course a couple of miles off to our left.  The streets of the town wound ever down on our right, with a river a mile or two off.  It was very dramatic, and pleasant in the November sun.

Azay-le-Rideau - ANGOULEME
Angouleme
Azay-le-Rideau - ANGOULEME - Rempart Desaix
Angouleme – Rempart Desaix

 

SANDWICHES WITH 5TH PRESIDENT OF FRANCE

 

We found we were sitting beneath the statue of politician and mathematician Lazare Carnot, who was fifth President of France.  (I hope I’ve remembered that aright.  He was the 5th something, anyway).

Azay-le-Rideau - Carnot Statue Angouleme
Carnot Statue Angouleme

 

 

 

 

 

AZAY-LE-RIDEAU – THERE’S A SMALL HOTEL…

 

Not long afterwards we were crossing that river on our way to the small town of Azay-le-Rideau, near Tours. 

After a little riding round we found our small hotel, tucked away in a side street.

 

Azay-le-Rideau - Val de Loire
Hotel Val de Loire

 

The Hotel Val-de-Loire is a well-run hostelry, perhaps slightly impersonal at the end of The

Season; (we arrived 27th November).  That we could understand.  However, our ensuite was bright and spotless.  Nothing was neglected for our comfort.  The extra pillows I had requested were in place, and the reading lamps worked.

Hotel Val-de-Loire, 50/52 Rue nationale, 37190 Azay-le-Rideau, France

Room Tip: As it stands back from a side street, all rooms are quiet.

 

 

WHEN EATING OUT – NEVER JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS COVER

 

It was a pity that the hotel dining room was closed.  We were told that it being a Sunday there would be only one eating-place open in the town – the Grill in the square.  From the outside it did not impress.  When we entered we were dismayed to see games machines downstairs.  And the dining room was not thrilling – checked tablecloths, candles in bottles – a time warp.

 

 

GOOD SERVICE – THANKS TO DEPARDIEU LOOK-ALIKE

 

The young waitress totally ignored us, even though only one table was occupied.  That is  – until a family group came in.  We were treated to a big, friendly grin from a younger version of Gerard Depardieu.  This genial young local man maybe said something, because after that we had good service and a truly great meal at a very fair price.

 

 

A GREAT MEAL – SIZZLING STONES

 

Graham, in particular, was thrilled by his slivers of raw pork to sizzle on a hot stone.  It was accompanied by a nice, fresh salad and a little tub full of those excellent ‘frite’ only the French seem to come up with!  I cannot remember my meal; only that it was also very tasty.

So – not our chosen venue, but what a GREAT meal we ended up with!

Thttps://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g187117-d9569890-r461660946-Le_Bistrot-Azay_le_Rideau_Loire_Valley_Centre_Val_de_Loire.html#

 

 

AZAY-le-RIDEAU – TURN ASIDE FOR THIS TOWN AND VISIT ITS CHATEAU

 

Azay-le-Rideau is an attractive small town, with interesting little shops. The chateau is also exceptional we have learned – though we had no time to visit it.  If this town is on your route, do try staying there.

 

Azay-le-Rideau - Chateau-Azay-le -Rideau
Chateau-Azay-le -Rideau

 

Azay-le-Rideau - Azay-le-Rideau
Azay-le-Rideau

AZAY-LE-RIDEAU’S CHARMING LITTLE SHOPS

 

We bought some of the local goodies the next day, mostly from a small shop with two round tables, where we enjoyed Assam tea (made properly) and scrumptious cakes, willingly paying the somewhat high price.  We also bought some of Madame’s expensive home made local biscuits.  They looked wonderfully crisp and flaky, but proved to break up in your hand and taste disconcertingly like Weetabix.  We had to scoff them all in the car before they totally disintegrated!

 

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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St Emilion - Feature image of St Emilion

ST EMILION

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25th & 26th November.

  

ST. EMILION – MORE THAN SUPERB WINE

 

We took a lovely country route to St Emilion, less than an hour and a half away if using the main road.

Instead, we chose a country route through some ancient villages.

The land was flat.  We felt we were travelling through a sea of vineyards.  I cannot remember now in which villages we saw not a few recognisable ‘wine label’ chateaux.  All are very famous – both for their history and the wines produced in their vineyards.

I noted Bergerac, St Antoine-de-Breuilly, St Magne-de-Castillon.

A very narrow road followed, over a small bridge and into a tiny hamlet, which announced a wine festival the very next day – Saturday, 26th November.

 

 

OUR CAR IS SPRAYED WITH CONCRETE

 

But that was after we had been deviated through the outskirts of a small town where extensive road works were underway; and in a suburban side street our car was sprayed with concrete from a mixing machine; it displays splashes on one side to this day…

 

 

St Emillion - Entering the town
Entering the town

ST EMILION – DRIVE UP THE HILL – AND YOU ARE IN the 14TH CENTURY

 

We were enchanted when we drove up the winding hill into the southern end of St Emilion. We quickly found the Logis De Jurats where we had booked a room for two nights.

Our host met us at the door.   On the telephone that morning he had kindly agreed that we could book in early, owing to our hasty exit from Chateau de Horreur.

 

 

LIKE US – THEY  HAVE LOVINGLY RESTORED THEIR OLD HOUSE THEMSELVES

 

He and his wife are Dutch.  In faultless English he explained how they had bought the attractive old house as a long-empty commercial building…

In a very dilapidated state, it had taken two years to restore and convert to this B&B, doing all the labour themselves.   Such effort we appreciated and admired.

 

 

A GREAT TRANSFORMATION

 

They had kept the stone walls, cleaned to a lovely cream shade, and had done the minimum to ‘prettify’ the building – indeed, if anything, it had a bare look.  But a décor of white walls and navy-blue door in our small room was very clean and attractive.  We felt that Ikea had helped in furnishing both bedroom and ‘cupboard’ en-suite, as maximum use was made of limited space.

 

 

GOOD VALUE B&B FOR ST EMILION

 

The rent was not cheap compared to most we had paid. Breakfast was an extra item that we did not take; but great thought had gone into seeing that every need was catered for – including a good tea and coffee maker in the breakfast room.

This was, after all, St Emilion.  One does not expect to get cheap lodgings in such a famous, exceptionally beautiful and expensive town.  And our hosts were very pleasant, and happy to chat (in excellent fluent English) on all sorts of subjects; so we were well satisfied.

Logis De Jurats:   email: contact@logisdesjurats.com

 

 

St Emilion - Hunting for the Best Wine Deal
Hunting for the Best Wine Deal

BORDEAUX – DIFFICULT TO ENTER THE OLD CITY.

 

We had all that afternoon and evening to explore the charming town of St Emilion.  The next day, my requests to go back to the little wine festival were contested (we have an agreement regarding taking turns to make choices.)

We went instead to Bordeaux, which we felt was most impressive when seen from the other side of the wide River Dordogne.  Such a pity it took ages of inching through traffic to get near the centre.  We decided not to linger; the weather was still hot and a little sweaty.  We instead returned to the large bar in Libourne where we had stopped that morning for coffee, this time buying refreshing citron pressè.   The lady serving greeted us with a wide smile, as though we were old friends.

  

ST EMILION – DO NOT MISS THE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE

 

That evening we entered the upper end of St Emilion and discovered the impressive Tourist Information Centre behind a colonnade of stately 12th century arches (we think part of a cloister), fronting a very ancient building that was presumably once the abbey.  We did not have time to tour the famous, stately old wine cellars; but they look marvellous in the brochure.

 

 

 

 

ST EMILION – ALWAYS EAT WITH THE LOCALS!

 

At last we got over our ‘flu – and were suddenly ravenously hungry.  Picking our way down the winding, cobbled streets we passed many pretty little restaurants, but we guessed that they would charge equally pretty little prices.  So we returned to our first port of call; the Restaurant Amelia Canta in the main square.

St Emilion - The Amelia Canta Resturant
The Amelia Canta Resturant

 

ST EMILION –  RESTAURANT AMELIA CANTA. 

SO IT’S NOT IN THE TOP TEN – BUT IT’S VERY GOOD;

ALWAYS PACKED -AND IT’S AFFORDABLE

 

(We were watching our pennies; returning home from a long 10,000 MILE tour through Italy, Sicily and France).

This restaurant was always full in the three days (in late November) that we were in St Emilion.  It was constantly lively; both indoors, and outside in the large courtyard.  Best of all – it was used by a good proportion of locals. It had a wonderful, carefree atmosphere.  Both the restaurant room and the courtyard outside were buzzing with happy chat and laughter – everyone clearly enjoying themselves.

 

St Emilion - Diners at the Amelia Canta Resturant
Diners at the Amelia Canta Resturant

 

INSIDE AND OUT – THE AMELIA CANTA IS TYPICAL SOUTH OF FRANCE

St Emillion - Our Waitress
Our Waitress

 

We found the food imaginative and of good quality – plus you could order glasses of quite good wines at reduced prices. We sampled several in this way before buying bottles from local traders.

 

 

I CALL THE YOUNGEST WAITRESS ‘BILLY WHIZZ’

 

Best of all – the waiting staff were all delightful; welcoming, always cheerful, despite being run off their feet giving good service to everyone. A Special Mention for the young waitress Alexandra (see pic.).    She literally charged around as if rushing to a Rugby scrum.  In one trip she was delivering food to one table, picking up dirties from another on her way back to pick up a bill, then seating people on her way to collect payment.  She never muddled orders, was patient with boisterous children and always had a laugh and a joke. She merits an award!

 

St Emilion - Wandering the streets
Wandering the streets

 

 

ST EMILION –
AN EXCEPTIONALLY BEAUTIFUL MEDIEVAL TOWN

 

St. Emilion is an exceptionally beautiful town in a country that excels in them.  It is also one of the best-preserved mediaeval towns.  In our opinion (determined by the extent of our travels) it is rivalled only by Sarlat-le-Canéda in this respect: (not so far away, in the Dordogne).

St Emilion boasts two grand old churches.  One, in the main square, next to Amelia Canta, was built into the attractive golden rock.  To our chagrin it seemed only parties of tourists could gain access.  There are also the remains of a castle; the high tower commands sweeping views of the vast plain of vineyards all around.

 

 

ST EMILION – BUYING VERY GOOD AFFORDABLE WINE

St Emilion - Wandering the streets 3
Wandering the streets

 

 

We did not find time, and had not the money, to buy the very best vintages, so we did not get to explore the impressive and historic underground wine cellars beneath some shops – but the photographs showed them to be very beautiful.

 

 

ST EMILION – YOU CAN’T LEAVE WITHOUT WINE – FOLLOW THE LOCAL FRENCH RESIDENTS

 

 

We could not leave St Emilion without buying some of the local wine.  There was not now any room in our car for much.

In the end we went down a side street to a small, private shop, which was selling bin-ends.  We had noticed all the French bearing home baskets and bottles from it.  Now, since we have sampled it, we are well pleased with our purchases. (We do not have the details; it does not appear, like the high-end wine shops, in the posh town guide.  We suggest you treat yourself to a visit to the town and search for it yourselves – just follow the local residents! )

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Narbonne - Feature Image

NARBONNE

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NARBONNE – SMALL CITY – LARGE IN FRENCH WIT

 

 

As we resumed our journey the sky darkened and presently we were in the midst of a storm.  It slowed the driving, but diminished when we reached Narbonne.  The town was on my list of places to stop and explore.  We were both a bit tired, and so we went into the town and parked up by an ancient church, which had been turned into an art gallery.  The girl on the desk was most unhelpful about letting me use their toilet, and so Graham and I hurried along to where we could see a tall tower, which must mark the centre.

 

Narbonne - The central Canal
The central Canal

BUT FIRST – A PROPER CUPPA

 

 

Presently we found ourselves beside a broad canal, and we followed it to the first café that presented itself.  Miraculously, they served properly made English tea (the cuppa, that is).   What a treat!  We sank down onto a pavement chair and watched the comings and goings.

 

 

NARBONNE – PAST GLORIES – THE BELLE EPOQUE

 

 

We were admiring the building opposite; a rather baroque, large square place of several storeys.  Carved in relief all along the top was information that this was an Emporium for Ladies A La Mode (as far as we could make out the French).  Not any more.  It looked largely empty, with several shabby little shops created out of the grand ground floor entrances. (We later realised that we were facing one of the sides of this once-imposing building).

 

 

Narbonne - The Old Department Store Building
The Old Department Store Building

NARBONNE HAS MANY FANCY LITTLE SHOPS

 

 

When we left we turned into a sort of passage behind the main street.  It was full of intriguing little shops, and led out into another, much larger square.  It had a sort of oblong trough in the centre, full of water.  Perhaps the base for another fountain?

In front of that was the still attractive main frontage of what is now known as the ‘Monoprix Building’.  Easy to locate, but such a comedown from its past grandeur.

 

 

WE LOVE HOW THE FRENCH DECORATE THEIR STREETS

Narbonne - The Ancient Fontain
The Ancient Fountain

 

 

Before us was that previously glimpsed tall tower.  It was already decorated for Christmas.  Like a giant gift parcel, it was tied up in broad red ribbon, with a neat bow in the centre.

‘Typical French wit,’ chuckled Graham appreciatively.  We love French wit, which shows everywhere; in window displays and much street art.  Even, as here, on buildings themselves.

This tower is part of what remains of the old castle.  Attached buildings are beautiful, even in Civic use. (English Councils, take note!)

 

 

A BEAUTIFUL FOUNTAIN – ON NARBONNE HOTEL DE VILLE (town hall)

 

 

Still part of the castle complex, the town hall façade had been cleaned to show the attractive pinkish stone.  Next to this beautiful fountain was a medieval, carved doorway.  We walked in, admiring the tessellated floor, and the statues and other features in the round (or octagonal?) hall or atrium.  Various offices led off, so we walked on. Through another arched doorway we found ourselves in a small, enclosed courtyard, with yet another eye-catching floor.

 

 

Narbonne - Gargoyle
Gargoyle

NARBONNE – PALAIS DE ARCHEVEQUES

 

 

Had we more time, and the ability to read French, we would have loved to spend time looking at the town’s archives.  Various illustrated displays showed a bronze statue of Romulus and Remus.  We managed to track the original down in

The Museum of Arts and History of Narbonne.  This was hidden in yet another inner courtyard where fascinating gargoyles were being restored.

After walking around this interesting town, we made our way back through a sort of ‘tunnel’ of  yet more interesting little shops.

 

 

WOULD THIS BE ‘THE MISTRAL’?

 

 

A sudden high wind followed by driving rain caused us to hurry back to our car, which was just as well, because soon all was darkness and Graham had to negotiate narrow country roads in a raging storm.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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