Italian Towns

December 18, 2019

ORVIETO

Jackie Usher Italian Towns, Travel Good Roads, Medieval route

ORVIETO – ON THE ROAD AGAIN.

20^th November:.

It was a pleasant 20C, so we enjoyed the scenic miles of our journey bowling along the E45 to our first night’s stop –

ORVIETO: NEARLY EMPTY GREAT HOTEL

Hotel Oasi dei Descepoli:- Firstly – this hotel was tucked away down a rather mean alley close to the station, in a dingy area of the small city. We had to ask the way of the only other householder we could see. We proceeded until we found some large gates fronting a long drive bordered with cypress trees. It had lawns to one side. We emerged in front of a very large building in the style of my secondary school built in the 1930’s, except for the series of lofty patio doors on the ground floor. In front was a wide terrace scattered with tables and chairs.

ORVIETO HOTEL: CLASSIC ART DECO

Orvieto - Spiral Staircase — Spiral Staircase

Inside, the ground floor was pure Art Deco. A classy marble staircase rose from a complete circle of steps. Graham took photos of just that.

The place was sadly rather empty, so looked bare, but we had a spacious bedroom. This was well appointed and very comfortable. We loved the extremely nice shower room, furnished with adequate towels.

ORVIETO HOTEL: HIGHEST STANDARDS MAINTAINED

In the morning we descended (you could only descend that staircase) to the basement, where a most sumptuous feast was laid out as if for fifty people at least. We got chatting to the few other guests there, and someone was at hand to supply copious hot coffee.

Orvieto - Misty Driveway — Misty Driveway

ORVIETO HOTEL: INTERESTING HISTORY

We learned that a rich priest had built this place. He wanted a modern seminary with lots of amenities for sport and leisure activities, as well as learning, for the young men he enrolled, It was such a pity that on his death the building was sold as a hotel. Because it was taken over by a high-class place in Bari we received first class service from the skeleton staff in late November.

In the early morning Graham went out onto the balcony and took many atmospheric shots of the long drive, looking rather menacing, though beautiful, shrouded in mist. ***

Room Tip: There are 400 rooms, I believe – ours faced the long drive and gardens.

Can thoroughly recommend
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g194843-d278186-r459619818-Oasi_dei_Discepoli-Orvieto_Province_of_Terni_Umbria.html#

21^st November:

ORVIETO CITY

We knew that we had been in Orvieto way back in 2001 when we took our very first holiday in Italy. My son Richard suggested (no doubt prompted by family complications) that we take a special holiday, instead of spending money on a big party to celebrate our Silver Wedding. We remembered liking the town, but nothing more.

ORVIETO: WE SHOULD HAVE FOUND THE TOWN PLAN

“Why don’t we just take a quick ride around and let the SatNav direct us out onto our road,” I suggested. Graham readily agreed.

Mistake: We turned the SatNav on too early; so we missed the centre. and instead found ourselves trapped in a long, long uphill climb on a busy road full of shops and offices. There were endless level crossings – but no little green men. Mostly, on the Continent, people just step out onto the crossing and drivers have to be ready to instantly STOP.

THROUGH UMBRIA AND TOSCANA.

A CHANGE OF LANDSCAPE

Eventually we were in the country again. The E35 Highway took us through farmland that was flat and totally different from that in either Puglia or Basilicata. Even Campania, though greener than either, has its share of mountains and plains. This land was somehow dry looking even in November, and the style of the houses and farms we passed were now totally different. We were in Umbria.

Then suddenly, low green hills and prettier scenery made us think ‘Toscana’. Yes; to my right appeared an avenue of cypresses marching uphill to a romantic-looking, typically Tuscan farmhouse. The landscape was all gentle hills clothed in greens and golds. We were in the land of a thousand travel posters – the Quintessential Italy!

Orvieto - Inside the Fortified walls of Buonconvento — Inside the Fortified walls of Buonconvento

A LITTLE GEM – RESTORED AND OCCUPIED?

“We’ve been on this road before,” I said, and Graham agreed, and even remembered routes we’d taken in the car we’d hired for a fortnight back in 2001. On that occasion we had found ourselves by a most intriguing tiny town of many pretty towers – Buonconvento. It was hidden behind a high wall. We had walked in to find that the whole place was undergoing very sympathetic restoration. So I looked out for it this time. Unfortunately, we were on the wrong fork of the road. We could have revisited the monastery nearby,; Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Within it, along with other treasures, were many exquisitely inlaid fine wooden picture-panels. In fact, Graham had surprised the rather snooty monk in the shop when he willingly paid a high price for a book illustrating them. He did not care that all the text was in Italian. This time, slightly reluctantly, we decided to press on.

Orvieto - Fortified walls of Buonconvento — Fortified walls of Buonconvento

A NOSTALGIC REVISIT.

“I think you’ll find,” said Graham, “that pretty soon we’ll reach Pistoia.” Pistoia had been the closest town to our base for our very first week in Italy. We had stayed in the picturesque and excellent Villa Vannini, high up on top of a mountain. Ski-lift cables crossed just above the road there, and in late October cyclamen grew in the hedgerows bordering the road. I felt nostalgia for the place.

“Are you sure? It didn’t come up on Google maps.”

“That’s probably because Pistoia’s a smallish town,” he replied.

Sure enough, Pistoia was right on our route, so we decided to stop for lunch, remembering a large square with colonnaded cafes on all sides.

THE SAVIOUR OF ITALY

Only we must have been the other side of town. Instead of wasting time searching, we explored our immediate area. We soon discovered the County Museum, fronted by a most imposing equestrian statue of Garibaldi. A pigeon seated majestically atop his cap lent this national hero even more height.

AN AL-FRESCO LUNCH

Right next door was a garden, and in that garden there were white tents and trellised gazebos, and we saw people seated happily gobbling lunch, all amongst the statuary and plants.

This appealed to us and soon we too were tucking in. I remember that suddenly my appetite returned and I enjoyed a superb, hearty vegetable soup. Graham cannot remember his meal.

After a short exploratory walk to digest our lunch we were on our way again, passing through and close to many pleasant small towns. All had the typical tall, square towers pierced with numerous Roman-style pillared arches. The buildings here were totally different in both colour and design to what we had grown used to in the South. This was the Italy of the travel posters, and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing it again.

We passed by Lucca, knowing too well from past experience the impossibility of parking anywhere within a short walk of the Citta Antica, which in any case we had well explored in 2001 before all the strictures came in. We just carried on, enjoying the scenery on the way to our next overnight stop.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

September 15, 2019

FAMOUS ROMAN MOSAICS

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Italian Towns Local restaurant, UNESCO World Heritage Site

AMAZING FAMOUS ROMAN MOSAICS – LOVELY MEAL – TAORMINA – GREAT SMALL HOTEL

12^th November:.

ANGER ENDS IN DELIGHT

We did have an adventure on our last day in Sicily, of course…

Despite debilitating influenza raging within us both, we were in any case faced with the long journey home. Our well-developed avidity to see everything of possible interest to us on our tours was difficult to shake off, even while fighting headaches and deep weariness.

“We’ve plenty of time to go and see this famous Roman pavement,” I pointed out in bed that morning. “All the guides say it is a must,” I pleaded.

Of course, Graham had to Google it to make sure he could trust my word, but then he readily agreed, because it was practically on our road, the SP15; and just 1hr 44 minutes away on the direct route to Taormina. There we would be staying overnight before catching the ferry. Our total driving time that day was estimated as 3 hours, 46 minutes.

So off we went, after stopping for Graham to snap an attractive sea of roofs belonging to the town of Trony that sat level with our road. Then we carried on down, deviating just a mile or less from the highway to find the turn-off to the Roman villa. This seemed to us to be at least another two slow miles along a narrow lane.

Famous Roman Mosaics - Chiesa San Martino, Trony — Chiesa San Martino, Trony

A RARE RIP-OFF FOR ITALY?

Finally we turned into a large car park. A man in a ticket office demanded money –a steep (for Italy) 11 euros each, before we even parked our car. In order to do this we had to pass two rows of booths selling bric-a-brac, tee shirts and souvenirs of varying quality. There was even (horror of horrors in Sicily, so famous for its cuisine) a hotdog stand. I had my walking stick, which was as well, because the ticket seller pointed up a steep track to a small building. His English was not good, but in any case he was brusque and dismissive in the extreme.

I STRUGGLE UPHILL FOR NOTHING

It was a challenging climb for me, especially in the heat (well over 30C). Panting, we finally arrived there, only to be told that the pavement was a further kilometre uphill. (The same narrow, roughish track.) When Graham asked if there was availability for invalid parking he got a curt ‘No’. So my darling asked if he could not drive me up the track.

“No.”

With my disability I could certainly not manage the long climb up to the villa – even using my stick. (Perhaps by now there is invalid access…)

RUDE STAFF – AND NEED FOR AN INFORMATION BOARD –

Fuming at the waste of our time Graham stalked down to the ticket hut and demanded his money back. We did not realise then – and there was no explanation – why those fees were so steep. They were very high for Italy. Since returning home I have seen pictures of the exceptionally fine, very detailed and bright mosaics. There are a great many, and they cost £18 million to clean up.

An information board in several languages with a few illustrations would have helped immensely towards our understanding – as would a more courteous and helpful staff.

Had we known more at the time, we would happily have paid up – could I have accessed the site

I have since seen even more pictures of these mosaics on Google – and they really are truly exceptional. I urge you to make the journey to go and see them if such antique art interests you. Here are a a sample taken from the site that I have put a link to and I hope they don’t mind us showing them here on our blog.

www.visitsicily.info › villa-romana-del-casale

Famous-Roman-Mosaics-Detail-from-a-mosaic — Detail-from-a-mosaic

GRAHAM IS SOOTHED –

Of course, we had no idea what we were missing. When Graham climbed back into our car he was so incensed that I had to shout at him to remind him that on the way in we had passed a very nice-looking trattoria. Grumbling at me, he hurled our car in to park in front of this place full of old amphora and other Roman memorabilia – and even in November – lots of lovely flowers. I hold that spotting abundant flowers outside an eating-place is a sign that you may expect good food. I’m rarely wrong.

Famous Roman Mosaics - Trattoria La Ruota — Trattoria La Ruota

IN PIAZZA ARMERINA – WE ENJOY OUR BEST MEAL IN SICILY

And so it proved. We enjoyed our best meal in the whole of Sicily. Our waiter was friendly, and spoke fluent English. He restored our sense of humour with his wit; especially his colourful opinions of the ticket seller down the road. It is only since finding the bill amongst my souvenirs that I realise he had cunningly inserted another 3 euros with no explanation – so study your bill. In the event, it was not enough to break our bank…

Trattoria La Ruota: SP90, 94015 Paratore , Piazza Armerina EN, Italy

So it was with full tummies, and in a far happier frame of mind that we drove the short way to the SP15. We finally coasted easily down the road to our final, friendly hostelry in Sicilia.

TAORMINA GARDEN HOTEL.

DAY 7:

LAST NIGHT IN SICILY –

I gave it 5 stars in my Trip Advisor review:

We booked this hotel for our last night in Sicily. (Seventeen days still left to return home in our car from our three-month tour.) This was one of the very best places we stayed in. Although the room was small, it was pleasant and quiet. We loved the gardens and the shoreline mini-bay, with rock boulders and little boats. It even had its own bar. We went down in moonlight – it would be idyllic for honeymooners.***

Famous Roman Mosaics - Moonlit Cove — Famous Roman Mosaics – Moonlit Cove

THIS COULD HAVE BEEN A MINI RITZ – GREAT SERVICE IN A SMALL HOTEL

The staff were all friendly and helpful – and THOROUGHLY professional. (The manager had risen in the ranks in the Dorchester Hotel, London.) He was not only charming and attentive; he showed real concern that Graham was not well. He would not allow him to carry any of our luggage, but himself brought all of it down the tricky steps from the small parking area just off-road.

We could have been staying at the Ritz instead of this very small, very affordable hotel. The food we had (both still suffering from ‘flu) seemed unadventurous – but then, we had little appetite, so disregard and judge for yourselves. Breakfast was good. We met nice people staying there – lots of Italians who probably go back and back… We Thoroughly recommend.

Next time, although our room was good, I’d love one on the lower level, which might have sea views…

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g187892-d289410-r446038648-Taormina_Garden_Hotel-Taormina_Province_of_Messina_Sicily.html#

Famous Roman Mosaics - On The Beach — On The Beach

Some Sicilian dishes:

Spaghetti ai ricci ,

Pasta alla Norma;

Pasta al Forno,

Pasta con le Sarde,

Parmigiana,

Polpo bollito,

Involtini di melanzane,

Spaghetti allo scoglio.

Famous Roman Mosaics - Arancina alla carne — Arancina alla carne

Street Food:

Arancina al burro,

Arancina alla carne,

Pane con la milza:

Sfincione Stigghiola ,

Pane con panelle e crocchè

Famous Roman Mosaics - Sfince Cannolo — Sfince Cannolo

Desserts:

Gelo di mellone,

Granita,

Sfince Cannolo

And so the next morning we said our fond farewell to Sicilia standing on the RETURN FERRY:

Very expensive for a 20-minute trip – but essential, of course…

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Images of the Mosaics and the Sicilian Dishes via the web.

August 9, 2019

Journey to Carini

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Day trips, Food, Forests-Mountains-Streams, Getting to know the locals, Italian B&Bs, Italian Towns, Local History, MUSEUM VISITS, Travel National Parks

8^TH November:

JOURNEY TO CARINI – THROUGH GOLDEN AUTUMN LEAVES.

We left Tripotello on our fourth morning. We would be staying in Carini, a town just outside Palermo. Our country road crossed the island to the North Coast. It would lead us through a very large forest.

My one regret in planning such a late holiday had been that already (on 8^th November) I would have missed autumn in Britain. I love to see the colours each year. I had not expected to see them here, as back in mainland Italy there was hardly a sign of yellowing in the trees. To my delight, as we entered the forest we found the whole area was gleaming with brightly golden autumn leaves. If anything, they grew even brighter as our road climbed and then started to descend, a mountain. After two hours or so I begged Graham to stop where we might take a walk. Presently he was able to park the car by a grassy glade.

Journey to Carini - Cattle of the Parco Dei Nebrodi — Cattle of the Parco Dei Nebrodi

JOURNEY TO CARINI – AN ABRUPT END TO AN IDYLL

No sooner were we out of the car and enjoying the birdsong and the feel of soft grass through our sandal-sides than a tinkling of bells grew rapidly louder, and we could hear conversation. A large group of men and animals were obviously coming down from the mountain.

To our great consternation a largish herd of bulls appeared out of the trees. They proceeded to cross the road not very far in front of us – about twenty yards. We could see many coming up behind. So I had to forfeit my walk; but Graham took great pleasure in filming the handsome beasts with their long horns. I admit that I stood well behind him! We debated whether to post the video as it was of such poor quality, but the sounds that it captured were so evocative of the region. Several times we stopped the car in the forest. Though we only saw the cattle roundup once, we heard it several times.

Parco dei Nebrodi, Sicily.

Journey to Carini - Cattle of the Parco Dei Nebrodi-2 — Cattle of the Parco Dei Nebrodi

CEFALU

Journey to Carini - Duomo at Cefalù — Duomo at Cefalù

As there was time for some sightseeing, we took the coast road to Cefalu. It was high time, we decided, to visit the sea again. After all, we were staying on an island!

We are not lovers of beach resorts. Rather, ‘culture vultures’, I suppose, seeking out historical buildings and art. Unlike many, though, we love to get off the beaten track. Our chief joy is diving down any little country lane that looks inviting – seeing where it leads. Though not infallible, we have discovered many a hidden gem this way.

Nobody can blame the Italians for ‘prettifying’ their fishing villages, and filling them with souvenir shops. Nevertheless, it was a joy to discover that Cefalu offered much more. It had evidence of an important past.

Its impressively grand cathedral, we learned, was built by one of Sicily’s Norman rulers; Roger the Second. As well as its twin towers, it had some intriguing and delicate arches along its front.

Deciding we did not have time enough to justify paying a rather steep entry fee, we settled for sitting just outside, sipping Peronis. Feeling cooler, we started exploring the town. Buildings gave witness to its history. We saw Byzantine and Spanish influences, as well as Norman and Arab; then rather fine Italian styles.

We made our way down to where we overlooked the rocky harbour. This still retained the look of an honest fishing village. We soaked in the view along the coast before getting back in the car.

Days 4 & 5:

CARINI – TROUBLE FINDING OUR B&B – ‘THE GREEN HOUSE’

Our next B&B was in The Green House, in Carini – run by Alesso and his mother. We had terrible trouble finding it. Miss Satnav would insist on sending us down an empty back-alley right beside the elevated motorway we had come in on.

This was not the first time that Airbnb had given insufficient directions. We tried telephoning the number on our sheet, but with no success.

Finally we retraced our steps and found a café nearby. After a refreshing coffee, the owner tried phoning for us, and obtained more detailed directions.

Our B&B was in the road behind the alley, and had to be approached from a different direction entirely!

CARINI B&B – HELPFUL HOSTS

As we turned into a very private small road, our host came out to direct us to a parking place, and then, with his mother, helped Graham carry in our luggage.

We found ourselves in a very nice private house – the inside reminding us vaguely of ‘haciendas’ seen in Hollywood films.

We had a large bedroom, although the wardrobe was at that time filled with someone’s clothes (this may have been unavoidable). We had to share the bathroom, but that proved no problem.

CARINI B&B – CAKES FOR BREAKFAST

Mamma (Janice?) went to great lengths to produce nice breakfasts, cooking many cakes (which is about the only time Italians eat cakes – and little else!) It was very reasonably priced. We felt very welcome in their private home, and we stayed two nights.

Adresse Chambres d’hôtes Green House : Via Medusa 3 – 90044 CARINI

(We booked this place through Air B&B – but as so often with them, we had vexing complications regarding payment (through exchange rates, I think). We will not use them again – at least for staying abroad. They are never as cheap as the first advertised price anyway.) To be fair, many friends back in England have been pleased with bookings in our own country.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Driving down to Sicily - Passage to Messina

June 1, 2019

VIBO VALENTIA – DRIVING DOWN TO SICILY

Jackie Usher Italian Towns, Travel Driving, Gelato

4^th November, 2017.

DRIVING DOWN TO SICILY THROUGH SMALL TOWNS

We were booked in at Vibo Valentia for our first night’s stop before crossing to Sicily. The main road, as we went further south, narrowed to pass through many tiny towns with small, colourful houses and shops.

In each town our car had to wait to negotiate round a mobile greengrocer’s. Every little town seemed to have one of these colourful large vans with their counter flaps out each side. Women clustered round them to buy their wares. They slowed us down; several times to a standstill. We sweltered in the heat and dust, and cursed the mechanic who had broken the Golf’s air conditioning.

DRIVING DOWN TO SICILY – WE TAKE THE COAST ROAD

Graham and I had one of our many altercations regarding his habit at that time of slavishly obeying Miss Satnav. I argued at least twice: ‘You can see the b***** coast road! Why not take it? Roomier and cooler.’

DRIVING DOWN TO SICILY – ICE CREAM BY A SPARKLING SEA.

For once, he complied. Seeing the sign to a lido, and glimpsing the coast road through short side streets, we turned off from the highway. We soon saw a largish hotel set among lush green gardens.

‘I know it looks expensive, but surely we can afford an ice cream from that café-bar bit in front,’ I argued – and we did, and a beer. And a lovely sit down in the shade looking over the road to the deep blue sea. Graham posed under a palm, and I’m hoping there’s a photo that shows this hotel’s name, because I just cannot locate it on Google maps or images.

Driving down to Sicily - Jackie spooning down icecream — Jackie spooning down icecream

I have just found a bill from that 3-month tour. I looked up the location, and it seems that it was at that rather imposing hotel.

REFRESHMENTS BY SPARKLING SEA COST MORE!

€27.90 bought us water, a Heineken, and two items (I remember we each had an ice cream (was that 12 euro?) and there was something called Scialetel that cost 7.90 euros (could it have been a gin & tonic? Or perhaps Graham had a plate of Scialetelle pasta; only it is unlikely that he would have had seafood with it – perhaps just prawns.)

The table charge (for outside, not on the beach) was 3 euros. But it was a boiling hot day, and we were en-route following the east coast. This was a beautiful, shady place to relax for 1/2 hour.

Driving down to Sicily - Beach opposite hotel — Beach opposite hotel

ON THE WAY DOWN TO SICILY – THE CENTRE ROAD – CASTLE ON A HILL

We carried on for quite a way on the E90 coast road, enjoying the cooling breeze and sniffing the ozone until eventually, with an eye on the time, we took the SS534. This road crossed Italy’s ‘ankle’ to join the E45 – the main highway down to Sicily.

However, although we were speeding along, this road was boring. I said so to Graham.

“Look – we’re making such good time we’ll be in Vibo Valentia by lunch time. I can see a castle ahead – just off to the right, at the top of those wooded hills. Can’t we go and try and find it – and maybe a coffee?

Perhaps it was the thought of coffee that did it. Graham, admittedly muttering a bit about my ‘whims’, took the narrower road over a land bridge, and soon we were climbing up to a ‘top’ road.

‘So where did you see this castle? Where is it? Point it out to me…’

‘I can’t see it right now, but it’s at the end of the promontory’.

He muttered something that sounded like a curse and drove on.

NO CASTLE – BUT A WELCOMING COFFEE BAR

We came to the end of the promontory, and there were a few buildings ahead, but we could discern no castle.

BUT – there was a nice little coffee bar. Only where to park? Motorbikes filled all the gaps. My husband was just about to drive off when out of the door came a young man. He held out his hand.

‘You can park just there – on the grass. No problem. American?’

‘No. English.’

‘Ah – Inglese. Please – you are very welcome.’ He flashed a white smile and turned to the bikers lolling outside, who followed suit. After such a greeting how could we refuse? We spent a happy ten minutes drinking fragrant coffee and bandying jokes with the young Italians. Graham endeared himself by admiring their flashy motorbikes. Our host then gave us directions for ‘the quick way down to your road’, and we were off again, riding down through dappled sunlight coming through the trees.

VIBO VALENTIA.

And we reached Vibo Vilentia, near the West Coast and the toe of Italy’s boot, reaching out to kick Sicily into The Tyrrhennian Sea.

VIBO VALENTIA – FIRST SIGHT DID NOT LOOK PROMISING

We came in at the bottom of the town. If at home, it would have been called ‘the gasworks end’ before Britain got rid of most of its gasometers. Those great round storage tanks cast their smell all over the immediate area – so that end of town was never ‘posh’.

The directions given on the website had been sketchy. After perusing our atlas of Italian roads we still had no idea where our B&B was. Eventually we asked a group of African-looking youths larking around outside a dubious, acid-green bar.

They did not know, but pointed up the hill as a suggestion.

THE KINDNESS OF STRANGERS

We started off, and soon found ourselves in a busy little piazza. A businessman was parking his car, so I got out and hurried over to him.

“Ah, yes – I know; but you will never find it. I will take you there,” he said, in perfect English. This kind gentleman got back in his car and proceeded, with many a snaky turn, to lead us the mile or two to the very top of the town. He stopped just under a castle, and pointed to our B&B. He was so very kind, and waited while we knocked on the door.

WHERE WAS MINE HOST?

No one came to the door. We checked our booking sheet. This was it, alright. Our Knight Errant offered to telephone the contact numbers, and eventually he found our host, still at work.

“He says to park up, and he will be along in a few minutes.”

The only place to park was where we were – bang in front of a greengrocery stall. The proprietors told us we could park in a piazza nearby – but it was out of sight of our digs.

They were utterly lovely, and put up with our car blocking most of their stall for almost an hour. We bought fruit and stuff from them by way of thanks.

After a long wait a car pulled up beside the front door (or was it the side door? We were told to use the one just round the corner.)

While Graham unloaded our luggage and got in the car to properly park it in the piazza, I booked us in. This proved a lengthy business, as for the only time in our entire tour, all – and I mean ALL – details in our passports were painstakingly copied into a little notebook, and I was required to pay (‘IN Euros, Signora’) upfront. All the while, the rather unwholesome-looking man was sneezing and snuffling, sniffing and coughing.

Eventually he apologised, saying he had ‘flu. And of course, with my breathing troubles I have a susceptibility nowadays to catch anything that’s going – and oh boy, I DID. So did Graham. After slowly and repeatedly checking that the money I gave him was correct, he insisted that we leave with him – by the FRONT door… Once outside, he gave Graham a key.

Driving down to Sicily - Trattoria Vecchi Tempi - Vibo Valentia — Trattoria Vecchi Tempi – Vibo Valentia

WE EXPLORE VIBO VALENTIA – AND BUY CHRISTMAS PRESENTS

We set out to explore some of the town. We were right at the top near the castle, and easily found the main shopping street (Via Roma – see photo above), which swooped downwards for a mile or two. Soon golden lights shone from every window; we gazed at several very smart displays, and even went into two swish cosmetic shops to buy Christmas presents to take back to England. The people in the shops were charming and helpful – such a contrast to that surly host.

Then we made our way (I toiled a bit) back up the long hill to find a charming trattoria I’d noticed in a side street close to where we were staying.

VIBO VALENTIA – A WONDERFUL MEAL

There we enjoyed one of our most memorable meals of our 3-month tour at the Trattoria Vecchi Tempi! Absolutely wonderful: ambience, outside and in. A warm welcome from the host: Food that smelled and tasted superb. All was freshly cooked for us over a log fire, and in a sort of cloam oven at the side. Not least, they produced a superb house wine. Vibo Valentia was our last stop before Sicily. We were very sorry that this Trattoria was closed the day we left Sicily and returned to the mainland – as we had deviated on our rout especially just to eat there again.

Driving down to Sicily - Trattoria Vecchi Tempi 3 - Vibo Valentia — The Chef at Trattoria Vecchi Tempi

Driving down to Sicily - Trattoria Vecchi Tempi 2 - Vibo Valentia — Trattoria Vecchi Tempi – Vibo Valentia

5^th November.

**WHO’S EATEN OUR BREAKFAST?**

This excellent experience was just as well, because of the very poor welcome we had received at our nearby B&B, called The Maze, (presumably because so difficult to find.) Our room at The Maze was very cold – the bathroom was across a passage (and possibly shared). There were few towels and we found there was no coffee or tea for breakfast – because in the morning all the coffee pods were gone, presumably needed by the other unseen guests. The limp, cellophane-packed croissants (one each) looked so totally unappetising that we left hungry.

Three days later influenza symptoms appeared, ruining our stays in Sicily and beyond.

Our advice – Just don’t bother to book!

LEAVING VIBO VALENTIA

From The Maze we went through the older but elegant ‘top town’, which had a nice little park in which we walked briefly, until rain made us turn back and run for our car.

We drove out of the town down a central road through mountain scenery ready to take the main highway again. In less than an hour we were at the ferry port to take us over to Messina.

THE NECESSARY FERRY JOURNEY

A SLIGHT RIP-OFF.

As warned on TV a little man came forward offering to show us the ropes re booking for the ferry (which I could not do online in advance). I was annoyed that Graham immediately agreed to pay 5 euro for this service, which was only directing him to the appropriate window. The exorbitant fee of 75 Euros each was charged for the return voyages – each lasting less than 20 minutes. Still; ‘Waddayado?’ to quote Robert De Nero. We needed to get over to the island, and this company had the monopoly. No wonder it’s taking so long to build the bridge for which the plans were drawn up years ago – am I right in thinking 1978?

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Feature image

April 18, 2019

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S ‘SOUL’ OF ITALY.

Jackie Usher Food, Food markets, Getting to know the locals, Italian Towns, Local History, Tourist Town Day trip, food, UNESCO World Heritage Site

Wednesday, November 2^nd:

ALIANO – OUR LAST DAY OF EXPLORING BASILICATA

“If we don’t go today, we’ll never see the little town where Carlo Levi was imprisoned,” I told Graham. “I’ve got to do our packing tomorrow – and there’s quite a lot. We’ve spread ourselves over seven weeks. Apart from clothes there’s that thin duvet we brought which has proved so useful, and things like our chest cooler – never really used, but full of veg and bread; and…”

“O.k., oKAY,” he said. “Don’t go on. I thought you couldn’t find Gagliano.”

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S GAGLIANO DISCOVERED

“I told you. He made up the name Gagliano – I discovered that three weeks ago. It’s really called Aliano – and it’s not far. See? And we can call in again at Ferrandina on the way back. You said you wanted to take more photos there. And Pisticci – which Giuseppe said we should visit.”

Thus it was that our last day trip in Basilicata proved to be one of the very best of our many lovely memories of this unique part of Italy.

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S LANDSCAPE: (The feature image at the top of this post was taken from Aliano)

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Centre of Aliano — Centre of Aliano

Sure enough, as we approached the town – less than an hour’s drive away from our base, the landscaped changed. Flattish ‘khaki’ farmland gave way to the bare, grey-white clay hills described and painted by Carlo Levi. We took the winding, narrow road up to the town. We had to park right at the beginning, until we saw a sign that said invalid parking was allowed further in. This was just as well, because we drove quite a way down the main street before we found the Blue Badge Car Park. Even then a quite long walk awaited us.

We had got as far as some railings overlooking a ravine, where men who clearly looked like locals were eating great slices of pizza they had bought at a littlel shop opposite. We were about to go in when I noticed a tiny baker’s shop almost next door.

ALIANO HAS A TRADITIONAL BAKERY

“Just look at those loaves, Graham – and the lovely rolls. They’re almost like our French dinner rolls at home. I’ve never seen them before in Italy.”

So we went into the shop, which was really the bakery. A very small, very old man was bringing loaves out of a brick oven. He used a long shaft (12 feet?) with a paddle at the end, which he manoeuvred carefully under each loaf.

His wife stood behind the modest, L-shaped wooden counter that fronted the place. She smiled and wished us ‘Buongiorno.’ I pointed at a small loaf on the shelf behind her, but was interrupted.

ALIANO – ‘THE SOUL OF ITALY’ IN A BREAD ROLL

I’d hardly noticed a pretty young girl squashed behind Graham until she confronted us and asked,

“Americano?”

“No. Inglese.”

“Aah. You will like Italian bread, then. Inglese know good bread.”

“Some do – a lot just buy wrapped from supermarkets. Silly things.”

“This VERY good bread. I come from Bari whenever I can. This town is SOUL of ITALY!” She threw up her arms. “And this bread the SOUL of the Soul of Italy! Best bread; you taste. Here!”

ALIANO – WE EAT ‘THE SOUL OF ITALY’

And she lifted up the little counter and dived through to a table at the back, bringing out a small bread roll. This she broke open. She then reached across the amused, ageing proprietress and picked up an olive oil dispenser. She doused each side of the little roll, then put her hands into a small pot and sprinkled some finely chopped fresh basil on each half, bit into one and threw up her hands – “Divine!” She then thrust the other half at us.

“The taste of Italy! Eat the SOUL of Italy!”

So we did –

The proprietress beyond the counter grinned at me and spread her hands in that ‘Waddayado’ gesture seen a thousand times in Hollywood films featuring Italian actors.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Clay columns — Clay columns

ALIANO – NO ESCAPE FOR CARLO

After buying our loaf, and receiving hugs and kisses on both cheeks from all present, we made our way to the railings again. Looking over, we saw sharp peaks of that white clay, too perilous to descend by. And there was nothing else – for miles. No wonder that Carlo Levi did not need to be kept confined, for where would there have been to escape to? In those days (1936-1945) there was little traffic, and only the one road down. The extreme other end of the village held only the bleak graveyard, set on a high promontory. And all the surrounding area was well nigh empty – and very poor.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - The piazza — The piazza

ALIANO FRUSTRATION – LEVI MUSEUM CLOSED – BUT STILL WONDROUS

We followed the railings, passing a really exquisite little square. This held the old town hall, and some attractive houses. Not least was ‘The House of the Hundred Eyes’, so called because of its many windows.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - House with a hundred eyes — House with a hundred eyes

Unfortunately, the museum was closed, and so we could not get a guide to take us to view Levi’s lodgings at the time of his ‘imprisonment’. Also closed was the house he later had built. Strangely, he decided to return to this place of ‘exile’. He had made so many friends – and no wonder – he had used his doctor’s skills to treat the poor for no payment.

BUT DID WE SEE THE VIEWS CARLO LEVI HAD SEEN?

But we did see them from the outside. The house where he stayed was substantial and attractive. His own, later dwelling was right on the edge of the escarpment. He would have looked right over a sea of the white clay peaks, caused by too much forest clearance in the past. We wondered if he had lived to see the later changes in the more distant landscape, when topsoil was brought in and fields planted on the plains.

NO WONDER CARLO LEVI DID NOT ATTEMPT ESCAPE

Carrying on down the long main street we came to a bust depicting this great man and benefactor. Just below it were steps to a viewing platform to see to the bottom of the deep gorge. Graham went down, but I stayed up top. I watched people coming away from the ‘castle’ – too late for us. A bell tolled ‘Closing Time’.

DID HIS ‘PRISON’ LOOK AS ATTRACTIVE THEN?

Aliano today is a very clean, bright and pretty town. I can’t help thinking that it must have looked very different to Carlo Levi. That writing, painting, Jewish doctor-activist put it and ‘Lucania’ as Basilicata was known, ‘on the map’. He wrote about his captivity there, and the poverty of the whole region, and most of all – the wretched conditions of those starving souls living in the Sassi of Matera. It was through his book ‘Christ stopped at Eboli’ that new homes were built for the 16,000 odd inhabitants turned out of their wretched cave-dwellings. They were offered the alternative option of passage to America and Australia.

Some, like our friend Vincenzo, came to Britain.

Aliano - Carlo Levi's 'Soul of Italy' - View — Carlo Levi’s ‘Soul of Italy’

LOST IN THE TUNNEL – WE MISSED THE CITTA ANTICA

PISTICCI.

We took a different route back, visiting again (very briefly) Ferrandina. This road first took us through Pisticci. Giuseppe had told us that this town should be on our list. So we were bemused when after entering by a very long tunnel cut through the mountain, we finally ascended to a rather boring, characterless modern street of little shops. We did pass a statue in a small piazza. It did not seem that Pisticci was that special after all. We were just as bewildered as the staring local inhabitants were by us. Clearly, they were not used to foreigners in left-hand drive cars.

The road looped down, and we exited through the same tunnel by which we had entered. We were glad to stop once more in Ferrandina. Later, studying the map carefully, I realised that we had been in Pisticci SCALO – we think it must mean ‘New Town’ and had by-passed the ancient hilltop town, which probably saw numerous tourist coaches.

ALIANO – LAST DISCOVERY IN BASILICATA

It was with sadness that we returned to base that evening. Our stay in Basilicata was at an end. We had grown to love the region – and that love is with us still. The next day (3^rd November) would be taken up with packing and checking the car over for our next long leg – down to the ferry, and then exploring Sicilia (Sicily).

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Ferrandina - City of vultures & banditsView from Ferrandina

March 1, 2019

FERRANDINA – CITY OF VULTURES AND BANDITS

Jackie Usher Day trips, Food, Italian Towns Gelato

27^th October

FERRANDINA – CITY OF VULTURES AND BANDITS

Carlo Levi described Ferrandina as a hangout for vultures and bandits. That was in 1936, when he was taken there as a political prisoner. Presumably still so in 1947 when ‘Christ Stopped at Eboli’, his book on the area, was published in English.

FERRANDINA – FIRST PASS THE FLATS

He described the town as standing high on a wooded bluff. It sounded interesting, and we were not disappointed when we visited. That is, once we had passed the blocks of flats that dominated the road until you reached the top of the sprawling modern town. At first it seemed like we would not be able to access the hilltop citta istorica at all.

FERRANDINA – WE RISK A HEFTY FINE

Suddenly there was a Zona Traffico Limitato sign (click here for info). The only car park was just beyond it and across the road, behind an old building. We took the chance of a hefty fine and crossed the few yards over, but the small space was full. We retraced down and looked for another way up, but without luck.

FERRANDINA – A TRUDGE UP AN ENDLESS HILL

Finally, we had to park at the bottom of the town. I took my stick and Airomir atomiser, and with the help of Graham’s arm, I tackled the long, steep slope to the old top town.

Ferrandina - City of Vultures and Brigands - Duomo from the entrance to the citta istorica — Duomo from the entrance to the citta istorica

FERRANDINA – FOOTBALL IN A TINY YARD

I am happy to report that the climb was worth it. We passed some intriguing little shops, including a Gelato, which also sold kaffé and little cakes. Gratefully, I could sit and finish an ice cream while recovering breath for the rest of the climb. When we commented to the proprietor about the length of the steep hill, he clucked through his teeth in exasperation.

“Those kids again,” he said. “They think it funny to turn the sign around. It should point to a very small, private back street. Sir – you can bring your car up here and park just at the top there.” He took Graham to the doorway and pointed. When we complemented him on his English, he said he had worked in London and some of the home counties for some years. He was very courteous and suggested places to look out for. Graham walked down and fetched our car, then we thanked him and made our farewells.

Soon we reached a very small central square, passing schoolboys playing football in a small concrete yard next to an old seminary.

Ferrandina - City of Vultures and Brigands - Being Scrutinised — Being Scrutinised

FERRANDINA – WE ARE SCRUTINISED BY LOCAL MORALITY-MATRONS

Just above it stood the modest Duomo, which appeared closed. Some older women, stockinged and robed all in dark clothes, their heads covered (as you still often see in the far south of Italy), sat on the steps of a nearby cottage, knitting and chatting. They all stopped to stare long and hard at us.

Ferrandina - City of Vultures and Brigands - Above a door — Above a door

We passed through an arch into a narrow, tiled street of what had once been quite grand houses. One had the sign ‘Palazzo’ above it. Graham took many photos.

At the end, we passed out onto steps leading down to a spacious ‘promenade’. This stretched almost right round the town. It gave onto impressive, far views. There was no old stone wall, as in other hilltop towns. Thankfully, it was girded by a railing.

FERRANDINA – MY SILENT CONVERSATION

We discovered that we were indeed on the top of the old City Wall. (We were amazed at how incredibly high it had been built all those centuries ago, when later we viewed it from below).

Ferrandina - City of Vultures & Brigands - A more barren outlook — A more barren outlook

As I reached the bottom step a smiling lady of about my own age addressed me. She had no English, and my Italian is almost non-existent. We both carried sticks, and waved them in greeting. We got along just fine, and appeared to understand each other perfectly. We puffed our lips out and waved our hands in front of our faces to indicate the tiring effect of the heat, etc.

Ferrandina - City of Vultures and Brigands - Edge of City wall — Edge of City wall

I found this connection delightful, and Graham was vastly amused.

Ferrandina - City of vultures & brigands - Cloister — Cloister

While I was negotiating the steps down to the wall Graham had moved further round on the other side. Soon he was peering round a large, open doorway. The dignity and beauty of the courtyard drew him in, and he found that he was within the confines of a convent. He could not resist taking a photo of this corridor, viewed through another, open door. We now know that this building has been turned into an hotel, so he was not such a trespasser after all!

FERRANDINA CONVENT – TAKEN FROM OLD NOTES

We do not know if the contents of the building are still as described in these old notes:

The monastic complex of Santa Chiara dates back to 1688. It is an imposing building in which there is a tower that dominates the entire city. Inside, in addition to a Crucifixion by Pietro Antonio Ferro, there is a painting depicting the Immaculate attributed to Francesco Solimena, dating back to around 1730, is of great value. The monastic complex of San Domenico dates back to 1517 and was restored in Baroque style, and completed in 1760. Paintings from the Neapolitan school, a seventeenth-century organ and a high altar with polychrome marbles.

FERRANDINA – DIFFERENT OUTLOOKS

Ferrandina - City of vultures & brigands - Olive groves & arable fields in the distance — Olive groves & arable fields in the distance

The views varied on each side of the wall. From one we looked out on flattish cultivated fields. From the other there stretched a panorama of greyish-white clay hills with only small occasional tufts of grass – exactly the barren landscape described by Carlo Levi.

Ferrandina - City of Vultures & Brigands - The Clay — The Clay

Ferrandina - City of vultures & brigands - Strolling towards the sun in a cool dim street — Strolling towards the sun in a cool dim street

There was a nice, very small park on our way down. It was in grassed terraces, and had many seats looking out upon the open view. Trees crowned it. I wondered if it might be a remnant of the bandits’ forest? We never found the castle itself, although we saw it from the road. We were probably right behind it when we had to turn back along that ‘promenade’ walk.

FERRANDINA – FAREWELL WITH KAFFÉ AND CAKES

Before walking back down to our car we went back to the gelato and each had a kaffé and cakes. The owner was very chatty and informative about the colourful history of his town. His English was perfect. He’d worked for many years in Britain. He said he had loved it in our country and had only come back to take over the running of the family business. Apart from the suspicious old ladies, everybody we met had been very friendly and greeted us. We felt we would like to return to explore a bit more.

FERRANDINA – A POTTED HISTORY:

The early chapters of Ferrandina’s history are thanks to archaeological findings, and historical evidence discovered in the old centre. Written testimony dates back to around 1029.

Ferrandina’s origins are extremely ancient. Its dominating position favoured human settlements since the Iron Age. (Ancient discoveries were found under the city). 1,000 years before Christ a community from Magna Grecia named this hilltop settlement Troilia, in honour of legendary Troy.

Nearby, another village was founded, constructed around the castle of Obelanum: (Uggiano). Both towns reflected Greek culture. During the Byzantine period Troila underwent considerable development, becoming important. The Byzantine rulers weakened, and new conquerors arrived in the south of Italy. First the Lombards, then the Normans.

In the 1400’s a violent earthquake destroyed the villages around. Frederick of Aragon had a new city built with the help of refugees from nearby Uggiano. They transferred here and named it Ferrandina, (probably in honour of the son of King Ferrante I and Frederick of Aragon’s brother, Ferrandino, who died very young). Frederick of Aragon built a defensive system of walls and watchtowers; also a castle. He laid the foundation stone of the mother church, dedicated to Santa Maria della Croce.

The 1500’s brought economic growth through agriculture, sheep farming and the ever-increasing demand for “Ferlandina”, a high quality fabric produced by the women of the city. The largest purchases of Ferlandina were by Dominican monks who settled here, dug a well, and organized an urban centre and a church dome dedicated to San Domenico.

Later, Ferrandina suffered a long period of social struggle and uprisings. The well-known independent spirit of the inhabitants became very evident. Citizens of Ferrandina still proudly display the same fierce resistance to interference to their way of doing things!

During the Risorgimento Ferrandina took a liberal stance and actively participated in the revolts of 1821 and 1860. After the Unity of Italy, there were military clashes between the “briganti” (local rebels) and forces from Piedmont representing the King. In fact, it was here that the infamous “brigand” Carmine Crocco defeated an entire company of the Savoy army.

The advent of Fascism brought about one of Ferrandina’s darkest periods. The population had never approved of Mussolini’s operations or his regime, which made the town a target for his hit squads, eventually leading to the assassination of the mayor, Nicolo Montefinese.

In 1943, toward the end of WW2, the people of Ferrandina rose up once more against Fascism. The protests grew more heated and bitter after the 2^nd of August, 1945, when they began forcefully demanding the exile of the Fascist landowners and the restitution of the land they had seized. The government feared this spirit of rebellion would spread to other towns. Ferrandina was put into lockdown, left for days without electricity or telephone lines. The situation slowly normalized when the provisional anti-Fascist government sent a garrison of the police, followed by a visit from the acting Minister, Scelba.

In 2003, a new spirit of protest ignited the inhabitants of Serrandina, who did not hesitate to take to the streets to demonstrate against the construction of a toxic/nuclear waste collection center in the nearby municipality of Scanzano Jonico.

The Church of Santa Maria della Croce:

In 1491, Frederick of Aragon laid the foundation stone for the mother church in Ferrandina, which is all we know about its construction. The stark façade has almost no decoration. Only three rose windows and three portals; the centre one has two carved stone columns. The interior of the church dates back to the 1700’s, but echoes earlier Baroque style. The central altar is a masterpiece of multi-coloured inlaid marble, creating a play of colour and light. Behind the apse, hidden from curious eyes, there is a hand-carved wooden choir, a pipe organ and two statues carved in wood, of Frederick of Aragon and his wife Isabella del Balzo. The mother church of Ferrandina holds two great treasures, one inside the other. The first;a stauroteca bearing the oldest stamp of the goldsmith’s art in Naples, dating back to 15c. The second, the holy relic it jealously guards: sacred slivers of wood ‘from the Holy Cross of Christ,’ to whom the church is dedicated. Every 14^th September Ferrandina holds celebrations in honour of this holy relic.

Ferrandina - City of vultures & brigands - The Duomo — The Duomo

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

December 18, 2018

IRSINA AND IT’S FEISTY SAINT

Jackie Usher Day trips, Getting to know the locals, Italian Towns Sightseeing

IRSINA

16^th October:

“Let’s have a look at this place called Irsina,” I suggested, pointing to an illustration in a booklet we’d been given. So we got ourselves together and set the SatNav, only to discover that the turning to Irsina was literally just up the road. We had not often gone along it in the Grassano direction, and had certainly not noticed the signpost to Irsina. What a discovery!

Green, flattish fields, and then suddenly an enormous, high ‘wall’ that dived down below the earth’s surface. Clearly an old quarry to build the ‘new town’ which sloped quite steeply upwards above it.

Feisty Saint - Irsina — Irsina by the glow of the setting sun

Feisty Saint - One of the two archways into the Cittia Storica — One of the two archways into the Cittia Storica

IRSINA – MORE RAUCOUS STARLINGS IN A QUIET PIAZZA

We found ourselves in a very long, steep High Road full of shops. The road was suddenly faced with what was clearly a very old arch (the Porta Maggiore – Main Gate). We passed through into the Citta Storica. We found ourselves in a piazza that had a grand building (for a modest country town) all along one side. There was another at the back.

The centre of the Piazza Garibaldi was taken up with thick, square clipped trees that formed a block. They were faced at intervals by park benches. As we walked in deep shade beneath these trees they suddenly came alive with loud rustlings and birdsong. They were obviously chock-full of Starlings.

IRSINA – YOU CAN SEE FOR MILES AND MILES AND –

We emerged to find ourselves looking at one of the most impressive war memorials we had ever seen. Not that it was large or elaborate; it was the vitality of the charging soldier atop his high white plinth.

Feisty Saint - War Monument — War Monument

Beyond, a low wall overlooked the panoramic, colourful landscape of the feature photo at the top of this page.

We looked out over miles of typical Basilicatan plain and low, swelling hillocks dominated by a flat-topped mini-mountain in the near-distance.

A diminutive gentleman of impressive age sat on the seat facing it. Suddenly he spoke to us in very good English.

“I look at this view every day, and I never tire of it.”

“We understand. We have noticed that in Basilicata particularly, as the sunlight moves around it constantly changes the view. It’s wonderful. What a beautiful town to live in.”

And it was – very special, although in some back streets we noticed that a few of the pretty old houses had been ‘gentrified. Many were now painted in pastel colours.

(We do have a photo of that friendly, courteous citizen, but we decided not to show it, out of respect to him.)

Feisty Saint - View from Irsina — View from Irsina

(The illustration just above was taken looking along to the left of the main photograph at the top.)

IRSINA – MORE EVIDENCE OF GREEDY BRITS – HANDS OFF!

PLEASE GREEDY DEVELOPERS – RESIST THE URGE TO ‘SNAP-UP’ PROPERTY HERE

On the Internet I discovered that this might well have been under the aegis of, I regret to say, some Englishwoman who is advertising property in ‘Basilicatashire’. Graham and I fervently hope this person stops this cultural plundering. We have seen too many historic towns and villages in many countries ‘Disneyfied’ at worst, and ‘prettified’ at best.

In Cornwall, most of the Tourist Trap villages are now lucky to have even one single Cornish person living in them. Their pretty cottages were snapped up when cheap to buy, and ‘developed’ for incomers who now live in them for short periods. They then let them out as short holiday lets. Some villages are almost empty in the winter months because the locals cannot afford to live in the place where they were born. The inflated prices outrun the local wages.

Heaven forefend that this will be the fate of unspoiled, authentic Basilicata! We would hate this magic land to go the way of ‘Dordogneshire’. The generous – handed people who live here might become resentful, as in Cornwall and some of the scenic areas of France.

We are not saying that people should not emigrate and settle in other countries; but the incomer should always be mindful of the sensiblities of those they are joining.

Feisty Saint - Irsina's Duomo — Irsina’s Duomo

IRSINA- MORE INFORMATION FROM A FREE GUIDE

Irsina Citta Storica is an exquisite old hilltop town, which never ceased to fascinate us. Staying so close, we visited it at least three times. It has a small but very old (11c) Duomo. The inside is beautiful in a pleasingly unfussy way. We were privileged to hear a full account about its treasures. This was given to us by our free guide; a senior schoolboy with excellent English.

A GREAT SCHEME

In Italy there is a very good scheme whereby children learn all about the history of their town (and probably other facts.) On certain days (this was a Friday afternoon, after school) they set up a stall in the town square. They offer themselves as free guides to visitors. This also helps them to practice their foreign language skills on foreign tourists.

Giuliano, our guide, was as full of pride in his town as in his knowledge. We could be sure there would be no vandalism from him or his mates. Indeed, in all our many trips to Italy (and France) we’ve seen virtually no evidence of the vandalism that mars so many of our British towns and villages.

IRSINA – A PRETTY FEISTY SAINT

Feisty Saint - St Euphemia — St Euphemia

The great treasure of Irsina is the delicately painted and gilded stone statue of S Eufemia (Euphemia) that stands to one side of the altar. It had stayed hidden for centuries behind dusty glass on a high shelf in a storeroom of the Cathedral – and was only discovered in 2004!

From a newspaper report at that time –

Masterpiece unnoticed for 500 years: John Hooper in Rome:

Saturday 23 October 2004 00.35 BST

‘Almost two decades of detective work, triggered by a Latin poem found in the Vatican archives, has led experts to conclude that a statue that had stood unnoticed for five centuries in a small southern Italian town is the work of a Renaissance master.’

It is attributed to the great painter Andrea Mantegna – claimed locally to be a native of Irsina, though other records show him born in Padua. All agree that he was son-in-law of Jacopo Bellini, and an influence on Giovanni Bellini. Mantegna was born in 1431, and executed (sic) in Mantua in 1506. He created his exquisite statue of St Eufemia when he was only 23 – she is the patron saint of Irsina (– and quite a gal.)

(Vivien, who loves cats, would have liked Eufemia as the saint had a pet lion. We had an embarrassing time confessing to Giuseppe (after she had left) how we could not stop Vivien taking all the kittens into her bedroom at night and feeding them all with meat from our fridge as well as their kitten food. (He wanted them feral and a bit hungry, so as to catch mice. )

IRSINA – MORE THREATENING WITH HAND IN LION’S MOUTH

Eufemia’s statue is uncannily lifelike, and most remarkable in that it depicts a clearly strong woman. Here, for once, is a lady (although a saint she lacks any sort of halo) who looks extremely stern. She sends off the Saracens by putting her hand into her tame lion’s mouth.

The Saracens captured the town around 320AD. When young aristocrat Eufemia refused to meet their demands to make a pagan sacrifice (one wonders what that entailed, as she looks very pretty) they threw her into their lions’ den. She tamed and befriended the beasts. That was the story we were told, but there are some other, somewhat confusing versions.

Her expression said to Graham and me ‘Don’t f…. with me, fellars.’ (With apologies to J. Crawford).

It’s an exquisite piece. She is on a rotating plinth and at certain times they will work it for you…

IRSINA – MORE INTRIGUING SYMBOLS – IN A TEMPLAR-TEMPLE

Feisty Saint - Steps leading down to the Templar Crypt — Steps leading down to the Templar Crypt

The priest approached Graham.

I was surprised to see them in animated conversation. After the slow rotating of this remarkably beautiful statue to gasps of wonderment from all of us visitors, the caretaker took the two of us down to the 11thc cross-form crypt. It is massive, and amazingly intact. It is attributed to the Knights Templar. As well as a fading fresco where God the Creator looks down benignly from the centre of the ceiling, there is a well-preserved escutcheon with an elderly pilgrim as centrepiece.

Feisty Saint - Pilgrim and Face — Pilgrim and Face

Above this is a carved and painted, fat and very large heavily-moustachioed face with no apparent chin. We saw this face carved into walls (and also on stables) all over Basilicata. It is very primitive, and we wondered if it is the Italian equivalent of our ‘Green Man’.

In the centre of the floor is a roundel with classic geometric ‘flower’ or ‘daisy wheel’ pattern. (Looking it up, I think it means ‘The Seed of Life’). As at Stonehenge, the very centre of this symbol is caught by a beam of light at sunrise at both Summer and Winter Solstices. Three round windows set into the ceiling of the half-dome enable this.

Feisty Saint - Crypt - Solstice Point — Crypt – Solstice Point

We went back several times to see more of Irsina. We walked round the ancient streets and alleys, and the small squares with fountains. In one we found a most lively statue of St Francis of Assisi holding aloft the Dove of Peace. He is standing in front of the Church of the Purgatoria.

IRSINA – MORE SURPRISES – WHIZZING PIZZAS & FINE DINING

Near the main piazza there is the pleasant Caffe Ducala Ristorante & Pizzeria serving ice creams as well as food and drink. The proprietor, who spoke perfect English, delighted in amazing us with a performance of flipping pizza bases up and around himself.

We also had a lunch and at least two evening dinners at the excellent trattoria in the main square; Trattoria Nugent da Mario e Gigia, where we met a friendly Belgian party of four. One gentleman made films in time spared from his business. Graham, with similar aspirations, was delighted. The rest of us made polite conversation while those two got ever deeper into their subject. Email addresses were exchanged, but so far no further connections have been made.

Feisty Saint - Trattoria Nugent — Trattoria Nugent

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Video ‘Pizza Magic’ by Graham Usher. Music by Kevin Macleod – ‘If I had a Chicken’

More Martina Franca-Street in the Attic Citta

November 30, 2018

MORE MARTINA FRANCA – MORE BASILICATA

Jackie Usher Day trips, Italian Towns Family Restaurants

14^th October

MORE GOOD FOOD – WHERE IS THIS WONDERFUL DELI-CAFÉ?

More Martina Franca-The Duomo — The Duomo – Martina Franca

Graham and I went back to Martina Franca to explore it further. There is much to enjoy there if you love history and quaint old buildings. We found a great little place with more good food for our lunch. I wish I could find it on the Internet, to give it a good review. It is a tiny WIFI café on one of the main streets. I can see it in my mind’s eye, but unfortunately, we have no photos.

Inside the entrance is a glassed-in counter displaying excellent hams, sausages and cheeses. Further into the dark, beamed interior another room has been opened up. It is large enough to hold just four small tables, covered in red checked cloths. Everything is of great age except the food – and that was simple but superb. The salad was crisp and tasty, and the steaks cooked just as we like them.

MORE GOOD FOOD IN SMALL FAMILY RESTAURANTS

After years of experimenting, we have found more good food, reasonably priced, in these small family restaurants than anywhere else. This one was a proud little family business. Father took our orders, and I believe, did all the cooking (unless Mother was also in the kitchen). One son waited on the tables filled with Italian families, while the other ran the shop. When we were paying our bill a young and pretty woman entered and hung up her jacket.

“My daughter,” explained the proprietor, and names were exchanged all round, our hands shaken and calls of ‘Arrividerci’ followed us down the street. How I wish it were possible to go back to all these places that bring warmth in remembering them.

15^th October

More Martina Franca - Grottole — Grottole

MORE BASILICATA – WE EXPLORE IN DEPTH.

We were left with three weeks to further explore Basilicata for ourselves. The temperature had gradually dropped from 36C (96.8 Faranheit) to about 21C (69.8F), though we would soon have a few days as low as 15C. (59F). Graham had entirely lost his paunch, due to heat, the Italian diet and more walking than we generally do. I lost quite a bit too – but we stumpy types seem to hang onto our tummies longer!

We did a lot of exploring in the area around Grottole.

MORE BASILICATA HOME COOKING – BELLISSIMO!

We found a little family-run trattoria in Miglionico that Lolly would have loved. The family did not speak one word of English, but somehow they understood us and produced a feast. We enjoyed the special homemade ‘Little Ears’ pasta with mushrooms, meat and tomatoes; then a nice fresh salad and 3 kinds of grilled meat.

MORE FUN teasing GRAHAM

It gave me great pleasure to tell Graham that the particular item he was cooing over was a sweetbread – something he wouldn’t touch in England. Maybe that will change now and I won’t be deprived any longer… Suggest that if you don’t know of them you Google ‘Sweetbread’ meat! We also had fabulously good French fries. It was not expensive. I sent an account of this to Lolly, back in America. I stated how I had a bit of fun with Graham, letting him wolf his sweetbreads down before enlightening him with what he’d just eaten (according to a popular but erroneous idea that they are sheeps testicles, that I had been given way back by giggling girlfriends.) This is quite wrong – they are really the Thymus or Pancreas glands of veal or lamb, though other meats like beef or pork can be offered if you are lucky enough to find a butcher selling these delicious morsels. Lolly says that in New Orleans they also call them sweetbreads.

MORE FOOD FOR YOUR MONEY AT THIS ‘TRAT’

If you visit Miglionico, do eat at the humble L’Incontro “A true family trattoria…” We had two or three very tasty meals there during our stay. The décor is unremarkable, but a window table had us looking out over the town walls to the plains and olive groves below.

The menu is small, the price very reasonable, and wine and water was on the table. Superb, honest country food cooked with love. It can be found on the Via Roma, 38, 75010 Miglionico, tucked away in the back streets.

More Martina Franca - View from Miglionico — View from Miglionico

MORE BASILICATA – ITS LIT-UP LANDSCAPE IS UNIQUE

Everything IS special in BASILICATA – and really different from the rest of Italy; and certainly from Britain: Landscape like nothing we’d ever seen. Not smart compared to Tuscany and Umbria, but of a unique beauty. The endless swells and hills change with every light. Ranges of mountains in the distance appear in every shade of grey, lavender and blue.

It is all very subtle, and deceptively gentle looking, considering the number of destructive landslides that have happened – because everything is built and grown on clay. Mind you, there are many impressive ruined farmhouses around; most caused by landslip, but others from the sheer impossibility of making a good enough living from the land.

A lot of poverty, but as in Ireland and other places that have known bad times, the food is good because all organic, and the people are wonderful: funny, kind and generous.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.