DISCOVERIES NEAR MELLE
MELLE to ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – A SHORT ROAD OF DISCOVERIES
8th May 2018:
We left Lusignan to rejoin the D150, which presently changed to the D950, stopping for refreshment in Melle, a very attractive town with flowerbeds, and an exuberant row of fountains in the town square. It also had a stately old church in golden stone reminiscent of our English Cotswolds. There was a very fine statue of Christ on his donkey just above the porch.
A TOWN TO LIFT THE SPIRIT
We parked just outside one of the most architecturally pleasing covered market buildings we have seen – even in France, which excels with its ‘Halles’. This one was built entirely of metal and glass. Unfortunately, the photographs of this and the places mentioned above were among several that somehow got ‘wiped’ from Graham’s computer record.
This was a town to lift the spirit – full of colour, which seemed to put a spring in the step of its inhabitants, and even me, as I moved to bag an outside table where we could enjoy citron pressè in the shade of trees.
BRIOUX-SUR-BOUTONNE: TINY VILLAGE – ONCE IMPORTANT
Our road ran through a village called Brioux-sur-Boutonne, which surely once had been much more important, since we saw a very impressive arch soaring from what must have once been the city wall.
There was also an architecturally pleasing church. As you do in this area of France, we passed many a fine, large house before we found ourselves in empty country again.
WE STUMBLE ACROSS A CHATEAU
Very soon we turned off the road to buy a sandwich from a tiny shop. It was on a small square, surrounded by charming, low houses. We passed by a row, all with identical blue shutters, and wreathed in white roses.
At the end of the row we were confronted by two tall gateposts. Beside them was a small, modest lodge. We found that by paying a small fee we could visit the chateau – Chateau Dampierre. It was not large – but attractive in that the ground floor consisted mostly of arches.
– AND ARE MET BY THE OWNERS
We were met by a studious-looking young man. He was very charming. He called ‘Maman!’ and presently Graham’s eyes were rivetted on an EXTREMELY sexy lady, wearing tight leather trousers and a leather jacket. (He remembers this brief encounter from four years ago.) She made us welcome, although this was not one of their ‘open’ days. Her manner was clearly aristocratic…
We had to ‘cross the moat’ to reach the front of the chateau. Then we followed the moat around each side, because it still looked as deep and wide as it had ever been. When we arrived at the front ‘Maman’ was waiting to take us up the stairs into their living quarters.
Because you had to ascend steep stairs to explore the interior of the chateau, Graham declined to go in – he said for my sake.
WE ENJOY A PRIVATE TOUR OF THE CHATEAU GARDEN
Instead, after taking money from a couple of other small parties, the son of the house escorted us two around the grounds. He told us a brief history of his home, and drew our attention to many interesting and amusing statues. Some were cunningly hidden amongst a small copse of trees. We ended up at the very quiet ‘end’ of the property. He left us to sit and eat our sandwiches on a bench by the river, cunningly hidden by weeping willow trees.
WE SHARE A JUG OF LEMONADE
When we returned he was waiting with a jug of lemonade to share with us. This small adventure has stuck in our memories, though we had to hunt through our photographs for clues as to its exact location…
WE ‘FIND’ AN ANCIENT CHAPEL
We left on the D115 because it was an attractive country road. It presently took a 45degree dogleg, becoming the D210. Now it was much narrower, and totally empty. Would this have been one of those very rare occasions when Graham became aware of driving on ‘the wrong side of the road’? i.e. on the left, as we do in Britain.
If so, it went undetected, because presently we spotted a large signpost by the side of the road, pointing up a long, straight avenue of trees – irresistibly cool. The sign told of a very historical chapel at the top. Graham parked up and unloaded my mobility scooter. I rode in comfort while he toiled up the track, camera at the ready. Eventually, we reached a tiny, tiny chapel. (Photos lost…)
ANOTHER PRETTY, FRENCH MARTYR
Trying to make sense of the French notice board there, we divined that this was founded by Saint Radagonde, who in the early 500’s AD had been a Thuringian princess – a barbarian. She was captured by and was married to the Frankish King Clothar 1, son of Clovis 1, whose father was Charlemagne. This queen would regularly wear a hair shirt, and inflict wounds upon herself in order to become a ‘Perfect Christian’. She founded the Abbey of the Holy Cross just outside Poitiers. She is patron saint of several churches in France and England and of Jesus College.
Presently a Frenchman appeared. He told us that this chapel deep in the countryside marked the scene of her martyrdom. He was disappointed that it was closed, because he believed there to be amazing frescoes within, dating right back.
COPIES FROM ANCIENT ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES.
This was certainly a road of surprises. Just a quiet country road – but presently we saw a sort of exhibition set up in a field just off the road. Two avenues of pillars and statues, and various bits and pieces showing beautiful, intricate stone carvings. Clearly, some were from churches and cathedrals – but not all…
These were dotted around an empty field that we passed. We wondered if these attractive bits and pieces were waiting to be collected and incorporated into some civic building – or a museum or something. It was as well that they were all far too big to stow in our boot with a view to adorning our tiny courtyard back home. The temptation might have proved too much!
Above is just a taster. A short post follows with several more photos Graham took as we walked around, unattended, uncharged, on duckboards.
Meanwhile –
Surprisingly soon we found ourselves driving into the outskirts of St Jean d’Angely.
ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – OUTSKIRTS
A sharp right turn changed our road to the D939, but we presently turned left onto the D150, which had miraculously reappeared. Soon we had reached St Jean d’Angèly, which I had read was notable historically. This was a much larger town. As soon as we parked Graham dived into the car boot for my scooter, which proved invaluable, as there was much to see even right here. This included a large, very grand convent, lauded for guarding the skull of John the Baptist.
THEY LOOK AFTER PILGRIMS HERE
We stood by the gate, reading a notice in several languages, telling pilgrims for Santiago de Compostella that it would feed them and direct them to free accommodation in the town. We were very touched by this seemingly unique gesture of goodwill.
THE FAMOUS TWIN TOWERS OF ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY
We had gone up the rather long street in order to visit the two towers that dominate the town’s skyline; but when we got there we agreed that in our opinion, despite being the pride of the inhabitants, and however famous, they looked rather ugly.
SCOOTER WHIZZING
Altogether, we found so much to see that Graham was walking (and sometimes almost running) as I whizzed along on my scooter. We found we had spent well over an hour in the place. It was time to get back on the road and find our new B&B in nearby Saint Savinien.
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
