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Bigaroque - Dordogne

DORDOGNE – OUTSTANDING SCENERY – COUX-ET-BIGAROQUE

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10th May:

DORDOGNE – MISSING SOME PRETTY VILLAGES

Dordogne was on the lips of many of our friends, and reading accounts of it’s outstanding scenery, Dordogne was a must place for a prolonged visit.  I had studied all the options on Google maps and chose a route starting on the D140.  This took us through increasingly scenic countryside and some notably historic and pretty villages. I was disappointed when Graham drove right past Barbezreux.  It was too soon to stop for coffee under the small cluster of trees in the middle of the main street, and I knew better than to push for deviating at this stage.

 

– AND A CAVE CHURCH

Similarly, I had found information that there was a ‘rock church’ – in other words, a cave church, in Aubeterre-sur-Dronne, the next village on this lonely country road.
Of course, from our car we could not see enough to tempt us in, but presently a very eye-catching cluster of old buildings came into sight.

 

DORDOGNE – TYPICAL BUILDINGS

Bigaroque House - Dordogne
Bigaroque House – Dordogne

We saw some mansard roofs typical of the Dordogne; the houses were definitely taking on a ‘different’ look.  They proved so attractive to Graham that he found a place to safely stop the car in order to take photographs.

 

DORDOGNE – ST PRIVAT-DES-PRÉS – TYPICAL VILLAGE

A glance at my Google map showed that we were gawping at St Privat-des-Prés.  Soon we were approaching Neuvic, marked as a larger town.  I hoped we would go into the centre to find lunch.  However, on the way we almost drove past a really superior boulangerie (and as all the boulangerie in France are impressive, this was saying something.)

DORDOGNE – GREAT LUNCH IN A BOULANGERIE

We saw tables both inside and on the pavement, and they were mostly filled with people who were eating more than sandwiches – we could see hot food and salads.  That decided us.

 

 

FRENCH FOOD IS A MAIN ATTRACTION

We had not stinted ourselves regarding paying for nice meals on this particular holiday.  French cooking, to my mind, still deserves its reputation as the most imaginative and delicious food in the western world.  As we are not sure if we’ll be able to take another holiday like this, and French food is an important part of the attraction – we decided we would not, as previously, seek to eat cheaply most of the time.  A wise decision, as my breathing was playing up already.

 

 

GOOD FRENCH FOOD NEED NOT BE EXPENSIVE

Even so, we would save quite a bit by sampling the good, fresh food on offer here – maybe allowing extravagance towards a gourmet dinner later on.  As it turned out, we were so well fed in that boulangerie that we did not look to eat dinner that evening.

Of course, we did not turn off into Neuvic, but when we reached St Alvère some forty five minutes later, we were sufficiently enchanted by the quirkily-shaped ruin right on the village street that Graham looked for a parking place, in order to get out my scooter.

DORDOGNE – A WALK BY THE RIVER

There was plenty of historic and architectural interest and beauty in this medieval village beside the river.  By the time I’d had a little walk and got back on my scooter, we decided to join the crowd sipping long drinks in the shade of umbrellas shading the many tables set out in the large town ‘Place’.

 

DORDOGNE – TRY AND SEE LIMEUIL

We were now only about half-an-hour from our destination, so we decided to save Limeuil for another day.  I had seen some really lovely images when researching – an angled bridge reflected in the river, and gardens.

 

DORDOGNE – WE FIND OUR SMALL HOTEL

Of course, this place so close by got forgotten when we finally reached base in the tiny village of Coux-en-Bigaroque (even Miss SatNav went round in circles until we realised that the sizable old house next to the church at the bottom of the village was actually our hotel.)

 

Bigaroque's Hotel roofs peeping through - Bordogne
Bigaroque’s Hotel roofs peeping above

 

our hotel
our hotel

LUGGING OUR SUITCASES

The concierge (or was he the manager?) was very helpful about letting us park on the grass next to the church.  Still, Graham had to lug our suitcases up the steep road and round the side of the hotel.  We then crossed a charming courtyard lined with rambling roses.  They climbed up the galleries shielding set-back rooms (very promising).  He then had to haul our luggage up a steep, narrow staircase to reach the floor where our bedroom was facing us.  A sign on the ugly flush door informed us that we would be staying in ‘Monet’.

WERE MONET’S PAINTINGS THIS GLOOMY? NO!

Our bedroom was nothing like the glimpses we’d had from the courtyard.  Instead ‘Monet’ had borrowed the most sombre tones from that artist’s palette.  The walls were in two dark shades of greenish-grey, with long, thin curtains of a dull mulberry framing the view of the somewhat wild garden opposite.

A DINGY OLD BATHROOM

The bathroom was even worse.  The bath suite was recognisably circa 1930, and the only light (above the sink) was very subdued.

 

– AND A BED THAT ATTACKS YOU

The bed was one of those iron-framed jobs that catch you in the shins unless you spot the problem first. The small wardrobe (again 1930’s in cheap oak) was badly in need of a coat of wax.  Still, in the centre of the Dordogne we were lucky to get a room for around £50 a night.  Shabby and dismal it may be, but the bed was comfortable enough to allow for sleep, and we had been given the extra pillows we had requested.

COUX-ET-BIGAROQUE – THE VILLAGE IS A GEM

And this village!  An absolute gem. We wasted no time in walking along the road at the bottom, and very soon Graham was clicking madly away with his camera.  House after attractive, charmingly detailed house came into view.  However, it was an ancient barn with a perilously sagging roof that presented the most artistic challenge.

Roof tiles in Bigaroque _ Dordogne
Roof tiles in Bigaroque

I shared his enthusiasm for at least twenty minutes before I finally scooted off on my own to find yet more subjects.

DISAPPOINTING DINNER

We were almost too late for dinner in the hotel by the time we returned – and there was nowhere else to find an evening meal in this hamlet.  Besides, we did not know where to find the nearest town.

The dining room was attractive, but the meal mediocre, served by over-worked staff on an exceptionally hot evening.  We could not but sympathise with them.

We took another short walk afterwards.  This time up the steep, short village street.  There was a boulangerie (now closed) at the top, near the police station.  That was it.  Immediately, we found ourselves descending the other side of a loop.  We had now circumnavigated modern Coux-et-Bigaroque – shorter than its name!

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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THE ARC DE GERMANICUS - Saintes

SAINTES

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THE ARC DE GERMANICUS

I’d made a few notes, but in the end we lazily made for the Arc de Germanicus, which we knew had been moved from its original site, where it had proved a blockage to traffic.  It now occupies a large circular space close to the river.
Germanicus had been the nephew of the Emperor Tiberius, and the arch was erected to mark the monumental entrance to Gaul -Aquitaine – the ‘Mediolanum’, and the completion of the crossroads of Gaul, the ‘Via Agrippa’.

 

WE NEGLECT THE ROMAN STADIUM

Having in our travels in Europe (especially Italy) visited so many Roman stadia and amphitheatres, we decided it was just too hot to trail through the streets to find yet another one.  So we just generally pottered around this attractive old town of white stone houses built mainly in the 17th century to the 19th, but left before it was time to eat dinner at any of the attractive restaurants.

Taillebourg - Saintes
Cross the bridge for cocktails

 

TAKE ANY ROAD…

We cruised around the area, keeping an eye open for a likely place, but what we eventually found were some umbrella-shaded tables overlooking the river –overspill from a large hotel just over the road.

 

MUSIC AND COCKTAILS:

There was music, and a band about to start up, and people were sipping cocktails. Now I have had very, very few cocktails in my long life, and I suddenly decided I’d like to try one.  We spent a good hour relaxing while the sun went down; then made our way back to Taillebourg, meaning to try the better-class auberge.  But we found it closed – also the restaurant in the hotel by the river.

 

River restaurant - Dordogne
River restaurant

FREE-RANGE CHILDREN CAN RUIN ANY MEAL

So we went back to the same place as the evening before. Only this time there was a large party of families with very noisy and unruly children, who were constantly running in and out, shouting and playing with the settings on the ready-laid tables.  If that were not enough, the food that evening was abysmal.
We had the same nice waitress, who did her best to tame those children – but their parents were totally indifferent.  I wondered – could this group be English?  We’d always found in our Continental travels that French and Italian – and certainly German children, all knew how to behave in public.  But no; a mother actually chided her child in rapid French.  I felt a little better then, and mentally apologised to all the British parents who do keep their kids in order… 

 

NO GOOD REVUE THIS TIME

As for the food that evening – I concluded there must have been a change of chef.  I decided that instead of writing the five-star revue I had planned the night before, the kindest (and most honest) thing was to not put anything at all on Trip Advisor.
We took a last little walk along the riverbank while Graham experimented at using the dying light for ‘special effects’
Then it was back to Cynlyns. John and Valerie were not to be found – evidently enjoying each other’s company.  We debated watching some television in the atrium lounge, but opted instead for a nice long read in bed.  Clean clothes for the morning waited in our backpacks.

 

WE FOUND IT HARD TO LEAVE THIS GREAT B&B

We found it hard to leave this lovely haven, and indeed, John and Valerie seemed happy to chat over the breakfast table.  Then there were photographs to take.   Finally we made for our car and the next leg of our journey.  Only a three-hour drive direct – but we were about to enter the Dordogne, regarded by many as the most scenically beautiful area in all France, so it was not about to be a quick drive-through…
Even so – we were setting out well rested and full of contentment, thanks to the seamless professionalism and genuine friendliness of Valerie and John in sharing their lovely home.  We assured them that only illness would stop us from booking a week with them next year.

 

CYNLYNS Le Ruisseau dans le Marais | B&B/Chambres d’hôtes à St Savinien

www.leruisseaudanslemarais.fr/

 

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Fishing near St Savinien

PERFECT B&B – SAINT SAVINIEN

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8th – 10th May 2018

A BIT HARD TO FIND – READ THE INSTRUCTIONS

 

Miss SatNav sent us past Saint Savinien and onto a small hamlet – a maze of huddled houses bisected by small lanes that were little more than tracks.  It kept stopping us outside a bungalow that was clearly not our destination.  In the end Graham used his mobile phone to dial the number on our confirmation document – he would not listen when I tried to read the detailed instructions that Valerie had sent.  (It is a truth universally acknowledged that – Men always know best!!!!)

 

Our Hosts - John & Valerie - PERFECT B&B
Our Hosts – John & Valerie

WE MEET OUR HOST

 

We found without further trouble the white house with the navy blue door and window trims – very smart.  As our car drew up the door opened and out stepped a large man with an even larger grin.  He rubbed his right hand down his somewhat shabby tee shirt, and thrust it out to us.

“Welcome,” he said – “I’m John,” and it was clear that our new host was yet another Englishman.  He offered to make tea, but I needed (you’ve guessed it) so he said “I’ll take you to your room.”

 

WE FIND LUXURY IN THIS B&B

 

There was a steep little staircase to climb, and I started to panic, but we crossed a short landing, and he threw open a door.  We were in a very spacious, beautiful room, full of colour and containing a wide, long bed.  There was a single bed, too, tucked into a sort of ingle on the opposite side of the room.  Both had beautiful, expensive-looking covers.  Good paintings adorned the walls and there was a very nice desk beside the door.

 

OH BOY – A BATH I CAN LIE IN:

 

The bathroom was next-door.  It appeared almost as large. I was delighted to see a large corner bath with seating-steps.  I had found difficulty in the last couple of years in getting out of our standard bath at home.  Lying down in it, as I longed to do, had been out of the question.  With Graham’s help – maybe even without, this pleasure could be mine again for the two nights we were booked in.

 

PLENTY OF LARGE, THIRSTY TOWELS

 

As I took in the rack of large, thirsty towels I found myself wishing fervently that I’d booked more nights – allowed us longer to enjoy this luxurious accommodation.

 

AN EYE FOR ART

 

More was to come.  John showed us more of the house, which was filled with works of art collected over the years; paintings both ancient and modern, some very nice sculptures – and a good sprinkling of amusing mementoes, some of them appearing to come from the United States.  These were explained when John led us through the kitchen to drink our tea in the large conservatory that shielded it from the bright, hot sun outside.  Before us stretched a long, tree-shaded lawn.

 

The conservatory where we had Breakfast - Perfect B&B
The conservatory where we had Breakfast

– AND OTHER SIMILARITIES

 

“Val’s out there, planting vegetables”, said John.  “She’s vegetarian.  Oh – I might mention she’s American – ten years older than me.”
Was this said to put us at our ease because of our age difference?  We’d ceased to think about it years ago, until forced to by my recent sudden onset of severe breathlessness and consequent loss of energy.
“Before we go and find her, follow me.”

 

LOUNGE WITH LONG, SOFT COUCHES – AND OPEN FIRE

 

We discovered that a large lounge was at our disposal (really, a lounge – long couches on three sides around an open fireplace; beside it a large, state-of-the-art TV.) Obviously, they were used to more guests; probably inviting in the tenants of their two gites.

 

A MEZZANINE GALLERY

 

From one corner a classy wooden staircase led up to a gallery where we spotted what might have been another seating area – or possibly an open mezzanine bedroom.  I longed to go up and look.  Perhaps I’ll get the chance, because we have made up our minds that if at all possible, we are returning next spring for a week in this lovely place.  There is a ground-floor en-suite that will suit us perfectly.

NOTE;  We have since been told by John and Valerie that they no longer offer B&B in their home; but are increasing their self-catering gites.  I am confident they will offer the same high standard.

 

WE MEET VALERIE – WELL ORGANISED AMERICAN

 

We crossed the lawn to meet Valerie, busy planting her little patch of veg.  She is tiny; smaller than me. (I’m 5 feet tall and considerably chunkier, though not obese.)
Valerie is a sylph – she looks almost frail, but it soon became clear that this lady is a dynamo of energy, and very, very organised.  She is responsible for the bookings – and probably much else around the spacious house.

 

View from the Conservatory - Perfect B&B
View from the Conservatory – Perfect B&B

 

JOHN – GARDENER AND PHILOSOPHER

 

John, we learned, is constantly caring for and developing the nearly three acres of grounds; and, we think, managing the gites.  We recognised immediately that they are ‘our sort of people’.  Shared values, such as ‘Life is for Living – not existing’; and that amassing a store of good friends is more rewarding than stacking up a bigger pile of shekels than the next guy, had found us new friends.
“If I’m not enjoying what I’m doing,” said John, “then I stop doing it. Life’s too short.”
We benefited hugely from the delightful fruits of their philosophy – their relaxed attitude that nevertheless embraced much hard work, and the generous sharing of their great good taste in the short time we stayed with them.  This couple do not stand on ceremony, but they offer their particular take on perfection to be enjoyed by all their guests.
www.leruisseaudanslemarais.fr/welcome/

 

Cafe by the River - Perfect B&B
Cafe by the River

 

THE CAFÉ BY THE RIVER

 

Valerie and John suggested some places where we could eat that first evening.  The ‘café’ by the river had pleased a lot of their guests, and was inexpensive compared to the rest.
We ended up there that evening and had a seat looking out over the water watching children splashing and fishermen doing what they do – which appears to be very little…
That evening we had a very good meal – particularly my seafood starter, which really would have been sufficient in itself.
Les Quais de Taillebourg: French, Brasserie, Creperie and Bar.  Route de la Brossardiere, 17350 Taillebourg, France.  +33 5 46 91 73 28 Website

 

9th May:

 

TIRED IN THE HEAT

 

We woke up still feeling a bit tired after our full day with stops for sightseeing the day before; and that very late night on the 7th.  The weather had been consistently hot for the past week, reaching 93 degrees Fahrenheit – possibly throughout our drive down with no Aircon.  That’s a bit hot for us particular Brits.  We like to feel a cool breeze on a nice warm day…
I can remember only that we were constantly seeking shade and cold drinks in this period.  We have consistently found hotter weather in the middle of France.

 

WE FIND KINDRED SPIRITS

 

So I think we just washed before going down to breakfast at nine am, though I was longing to get into that bath (as was Graham.) The plan was to go up after breakfast; but our hosts joined us in the conservatory, and we could not stop chatting; we all had so much in common.

 

JOHN – KING OF THE TRACTOR

 

Graham went off to accompany John on his mini-tractor, with which he cut the grass of the extensive lawns.  (This sit-on-mower was his pride and joy.  Valerie was ‘strictly forbidden’- and Graham, if he’d hoped for a ‘go’ was thwarted.)

 

WALLOWING IN THE BATH

 

Still, my husband was gone a couple of hours; but I didn’t mind.  Valerie and I chewed the fat.  Ex-hippies both; she in California, (though if memory serves I believe she grew up in the Mid-west. Forgive me, please, Valerie, if this is all entirely wrong.)
I worried that I was keeping her from her ‘duties’, but she assured me that they take life very much as it comes.  This was an object lesson in avoiding stress and still achieving super-efficiency.
Graham returned and we both made full use of that lovely double bath, and it’s equally abundant shower.  Clean and refreshed, we sallied forth to find a light lunch and explore a bit more of St Jean d’Angèly. (We had not gone into the centre the night before).

 

BACK TO ST JEAN D’ANGèLY

 

It took only eighteen minutes to go back and discover the centre of the old town.  The buildings in the main ‘place’ were mostly of the stately Napoleonic era, mixed with tall houses of simpler aspect.  Many had those  typical lavender window shutters.

 

Echoing back to the Napoleonic era - Perfect B&B
Echoing back to the Napoleonic era
The Famous Well - Perfect B&B
The Famous Well

A COOL DRINK – BUT NOT FROM THE FAMOUS WELL

 

In the middle of the ‘road’ a café had set many shaded tables.  We enjoyed a cool drink there, before I ventured down to look at the curious and ornamental old water fountain (or well?).  It is now empty, but contains a curious contraption – a sort of wheel is set into it. Perhaps it was once used to bring up water – in any case, Google searches reveal nothing.

 

ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – PICTURESQUE ROOFTOPS

 

Graham left me under the awnings set down the middle of the street while he climbed long, steep steps to explore views from the top of the town.

He came back full of enthusiasm, and I spent at least ten minutes peering into his point-and-shoot camera at the tiny, sometimes indistinct pictures of rooftops, far-extending views and those special twin towers, which looked less hideous than they had at close quarters the day before.

 

Clock tower - Perfect B&B
Clock tower

 

– AND LANDMARK CLOCK TOWER

 

A further walk around took us down some medieval streets to the landmark clock tower, which revealed itself atop a high arch, which rose above the roofs of the old, very tall, three-storied, elaborately half-timbered houses.
When we had satisfied ourselves that we had not missed any more significant landmarks, we got back in our car and headed for Saintes, about one hour’s drive away.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Cafe scene - Rouen

FAREWELL – LA BELLE FRANCE

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28TH November:

LAST NIGHT ABROAD – A SPOILER – RUDE STAFF

 

After our lunch we charged on for Coquelles, to find our Kyriad – cheap, and only 10 minutes from the Channel tunnel.

We arrived in a snowstorm at minus 2 degrees Celsius.  The ‘lady’ receptionist was indifferent to the point of rudeness.  She said we could not have a fresh coffee from the dining room – only one from the machine in the hall.  We said ‘Please – We will pay.  We have driven all the way from the other side of Poitiers.’  She reluctantly poured us each a small cup from the pod machine, charging €1.25 each, which was very expensive at that time.

I wished we’d opted for the evening meal there.  The starters looked temptingly good, but we had declined, sight-unseen.  In the event, after travelling some further miles, we could find nowhere.  Our last night in France ended in the hotel room, nibbling a stale baguette end and drinking water.  Serve us right for being such snobs…

In the morning there was an equally terse young man on the front desk, who reluctantly offered us a tiny cup of coffee for €2.50 each.  Gerroff!

 

FOLKESTONE – AND HOME!

 

29th November.

White Cliffs of Dover
White Cliffs of Dover

 

 

It was minus 2°C when we scraped the ice off the windscreen of our car, and we left with totally empty bellies for the EuroShuttle entrance ten minutes away. We were lucky, and grateful, to be able to drive straight onto the train standing ready – an hour earlier than we’d booked.

 

THE FULL BRITISH

 

Emerging at the other end we turned into Folkestone High Street and discovered ‘Dawn’s Delight’.  There we enjoyed enormous Full English breakfasts with steaming mugs of tea for the amazing price of (if I remember aright) of £2.95 each – such a refreshing departure from most of Rip-Off Britain!

And after that we had a ride through frosty scenery all the way back to Cousin Clive and Marion’s house in Somerset.  We gave some of Claude’s precious woods to a happy Clive.  We called Marion in and invited both to pick ‘first choice’ of the Christmas presents we had bought.  We also unloaded some Basilicatan and French goodies for them; but all this only after a cup of tea!

They live on the Somerset Levels and as so often, kindly fed us and put us up for two nights.

We returned home late in the afternoon on December 1st.  2016.

 

WE HAVE OUR MEMORIES TO ENJOY – WILL WE MANAGE TO GO SO FAR AGAIN?

 

We experienced amazing scenery; majestic mountains and lovely lakes: warm seas, hot sands – and in both France and Italy lots and lots of history, both ancient and renaissance.

BUT WHEN ALL IS SAID AND DONE,

THE GREATEST REWARDS IN TRAVELLING ARE THE PEOPLE!

 

Friends we stayed with
Friends we stayed with

(Clicking on the names above will take you to some of the posts describing them)

 

We have made so many good friends through travelling.  Since that holiday we have had invitations to stay as personal houseguests from four of our B&B hosts, and have enjoyed boundless hospitality.   Others, as stated, have nursed us and been very generous.  The family from Thiers (now firm friends) stayed with us in early May 2019.  They were intrigued by the mirrors we judiciously placed to ‘enhance’ the space in our tiny courtyard garden.

We hope we will be visited by the other friends we made – and that their bookings will always be full.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

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Azay-le-Rideau - River Dronne

AZAY-LE-RIDEAU – THERE’S A SMALL HOTEL…

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27th November

 

ON THE ROAD AGAIN 

 

Azay-le-Rideau - The Bridge over River Dronne
The Bridge over River Dronne

Azay-le-Rideau was where we had booked at a very small hotel for our next nights stay ; in itself a very modest town off the main road to Tours.  Leaving St Emilion we took the D674 road to Angouleme

 

 EN-ROUTE – LA ROCHE CHALAIS

 

En route, we stoppped off for a coffee and a quick bite for breakfast at La Roche-Chalais.  Early Sunday morning found a cafe open close to the church on the high ground.  It overlooked the river Dronne, which  from our viewpoint appeared quite wide.   A bridge with an impressive, single arching span crossed it.

 

ANGOULEME – the original home of the Plantagenets.

 

 

(Disappointingly, when we reached Angouleme we saw no trace of that fierce medieval Royal Family in both France and England.  Athough we passed a castle it did not appear to be open to the public.)

We stopped for an hour or so, seeking lunch.    Our road dictated us winding up and up, past a lovely covered market.  We looked in vain for somewhere to park nearby, even turning back and driving in a loop.

Carrying on up the narrow hill we finally found a large open ‘Place’ surrounded by grand civic buildings.   We were fortunate to park in a tiny side street, after first checking with a local lady.  I noticed a sign pointing to The Ramparts, so urged Graham to just walk round the corner to see.

 

 

Azay-le-Rideau - ANGOULEME - Avenue des Maréchaux
Angouleme – Avenue des Maréchaux

ANGOULEME – A GRAND PROMENADE – AND A GREAT VIEW

 

We found ourselves in a wide street bordered on one side by railings.  Looking over, you could see far below to a street of grand houses.   A little further on was a large monument, with people seated on and near it, eating sandwiches.

Thinking of our time, Graham went back and fetched the remains of our good boulangerie breakfast and bottled water.  We enjoyed this looking out over a wide view of a green park and golf course a couple of miles off to our left.  The streets of the town wound ever down on our right, with a river a mile or two off.  It was very dramatic, and pleasant in the November sun.

Azay-le-Rideau - ANGOULEME
Angouleme
Azay-le-Rideau - ANGOULEME - Rempart Desaix
Angouleme – Rempart Desaix

 

SANDWICHES WITH 5TH PRESIDENT OF FRANCE

 

We found we were sitting beneath the statue of politician and mathematician Lazare Carnot, who was fifth President of France.  (I hope I’ve remembered that aright.  He was the 5th something, anyway).

Azay-le-Rideau - Carnot Statue Angouleme
Carnot Statue Angouleme

 

 

 

 

 

AZAY-LE-RIDEAU – THERE’S A SMALL HOTEL…

 

Not long afterwards we were crossing that river on our way to the small town of Azay-le-Rideau, near Tours. 

After a little riding round we found our small hotel, tucked away in a side street.

 

Azay-le-Rideau - Val de Loire
Hotel Val de Loire

 

The Hotel Val-de-Loire is a well-run hostelry, perhaps slightly impersonal at the end of The

Season; (we arrived 27th November).  That we could understand.  However, our ensuite was bright and spotless.  Nothing was neglected for our comfort.  The extra pillows I had requested were in place, and the reading lamps worked.

Hotel Val-de-Loire, 50/52 Rue nationale, 37190 Azay-le-Rideau, France

Room Tip: As it stands back from a side street, all rooms are quiet.

 

 

WHEN EATING OUT – NEVER JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS COVER

 

It was a pity that the hotel dining room was closed.  We were told that it being a Sunday there would be only one eating-place open in the town – the Grill in the square.  From the outside it did not impress.  When we entered we were dismayed to see games machines downstairs.  And the dining room was not thrilling – checked tablecloths, candles in bottles – a time warp.

 

 

GOOD SERVICE – THANKS TO DEPARDIEU LOOK-ALIKE

 

The young waitress totally ignored us, even though only one table was occupied.  That is  – until a family group came in.  We were treated to a big, friendly grin from a younger version of Gerard Depardieu.  This genial young local man maybe said something, because after that we had good service and a truly great meal at a very fair price.

 

 

A GREAT MEAL – SIZZLING STONES

 

Graham, in particular, was thrilled by his slivers of raw pork to sizzle on a hot stone.  It was accompanied by a nice, fresh salad and a little tub full of those excellent ‘frite’ only the French seem to come up with!  I cannot remember my meal; only that it was also very tasty.

So – not our chosen venue, but what a GREAT meal we ended up with!

Thttps://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g187117-d9569890-r461660946-Le_Bistrot-Azay_le_Rideau_Loire_Valley_Centre_Val_de_Loire.html#

 

 

AZAY-le-RIDEAU – TURN ASIDE FOR THIS TOWN AND VISIT ITS CHATEAU

 

Azay-le-Rideau is an attractive small town, with interesting little shops. The chateau is also exceptional we have learned – though we had no time to visit it.  If this town is on your route, do try staying there.

 

Azay-le-Rideau - Chateau-Azay-le -Rideau
Chateau-Azay-le -Rideau

 

Azay-le-Rideau - Azay-le-Rideau
Azay-le-Rideau

AZAY-LE-RIDEAU’S CHARMING LITTLE SHOPS

 

We bought some of the local goodies the next day, mostly from a small shop with two round tables, where we enjoyed Assam tea (made properly) and scrumptious cakes, willingly paying the somewhat high price.  We also bought some of Madame’s expensive home made local biscuits.  They looked wonderfully crisp and flaky, but proved to break up in your hand and taste disconcertingly like Weetabix.  We had to scoff them all in the car before they totally disintegrated!

 

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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GIRONDE - Auch

GIRONDE

,

 

GIRONDE – BAZAS – A CHATEAU OF HORROR

 

 

November 24th:

We entered the Gironde and went first to Auch, (just had to pronounce it in phonetic English!).  Unfortunately, we never found the famous statue of D’Artagnan.  Nor that of his creator, Alexander Dumas; or the Four Musketeers.

Instead, we parked in a wide, tree-lined boulevard, outside an impressive villa bearing a ‘for sale’ sign.  Just over the road we enjoyed excellent coffee and lively conversation in a smart little bar.

Having plenty of time, we took the country road to Mont-de-Marsan, on the edge of the scenic area of the Gironde.  We found it to be a pretty town full of interest, and despite having earlier bought filled baguettes for midday, we could not resist mouthwatering smells from a small bistro.  We had a light lunch there instead.

 

Then, in high hopes of a bit of luxury (£65 per night on 24th November in the Gironde was on the high side) we joined the highway to Bazas, and – CHATEAU ST. VINCENT:

 

GIRONDE - Chateau St. Vincent
Chateau St. Vincent

A LETDOWN FROM THE START

 

We were impressed when we spotted the frontage of Chateau St. Vincent.  We looked forward to a nice meal in an elegant dining room with a roaring log fire.  To enter, though, we had to take a long way round to the back gate. (This was a surprise, as we had booked well in advance).

A dog barked fiercely at us as we parked our car in the empty yard.  Finally, a man left a greenhouse-annexe affair and pointed to a long, dirty conservatory jammed with junk. We were left to search for the only door that would let us in.

 

 

NO WELCOME WHEN WE ARRIVED

 

We presently found ourselves in a large, dark hall filled with even darker, looming furniture.  We waited at the desk a good ten minutes after dinging the bell.

 

 

SO FREEZING COLD – IT MUST HAVE BEEN HAUNTED

 

Eventually a lady wearing several woollen cardigans topped by a jacket under a fur gilet finally appeared.  We could well understand her garb – it was icy cold in there, though warmer outside – about 10 Celsius…

She took us up a dingy, once-grand staircase onto a long landing with a beautiful polished wood floor and some antique furniture set amongst old toys.   A nice bedroom seemed likely.

 

OUR BEDROOM WAS POOR

 

Instead, we were in for a disappointment.  Our room was small, bare, and freezing cold.  It had one of those cheap camp-bed affairs, and one inadequate see-through curtain. The shower-suite, in a sort of cupboard, looked quite smart, but we put off having showers until morning.  She showed us a stone-cold radiator in our icy room.  No attempt had been made to turn it on, even though we were pre-booked and had phoned to say we were on our way.  Even now, she did not turn it on for us, but tossed down two small, thin towels and swept out.

Mercifully, the radiator worked.  We made the room quite hot at first to warm ourselves up after a long, arctic wait.  I left the bathroom door open to facilitate a passage of air, and after washing, etc. we climbed into bed to keep warm.  Too dispirited to go out and hunt for food, and not risking a high-priced meal at this unwelcoming chateau, we ate the filled baguette we had bought that morning, washing it down with bottled water.

The bed was not a ‘real bed’, but a metal frame with a very thin mattress.  It also had only thin, old covers.  We had to pile our coats and other clothes on top in order to be warm enough to sleep.

 

 

WE WOKE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT TO BUBBLING EFFLUENT

 

I awoke about 2am to use the toilet and to my dismay found the foulest of smells in the shower room.  So upon leaving I shut the door.

About 4.30am we were both awakened by the sound of loud bubbling.  The room was filled with the strong, unmistakeable odour of effluent. We hurriedly put our things together, not even washing or cleaning our teeth, and opened the window to the early-morning cold and damp.  We climbed into the bed fully clothed until at 6am we felt justified in descending to complain.  It seemed that we stood forever at the reception desk, from time to time dinging the bell for attention.  The husband eventually came, but he could not speak English. When his wife finally arrived she was in a fur coat. By now we had waited an hour, standing in the cold.

 

‘YOU SHOULD HAVE PUT A TOWEL OVER’

 

“No need to complain: You should have put a wet towel over the drain hole in the floor,” she said, as though this was an obvious answer to the problem; and “why did you not phone me when you noticed it?”

We said we had no idea that she would be available at that hour, and in any case she had given us no mobile phone number.

Her husband brought out some forms for me to sign, but I refused, suspecting a ‘Disclaimer’.  A lot of arguing ensued, but then I remembered the ‘complaints’ number on our printout of the booking confirmation.

We telephoned Booking.com on the spot.  They promised to look into it, and suggested we only paid half – but wanting just to leave right then (by now it was 8am) we paid the full amount.

Happy to say Booking.Com refunded us later.

We have no idea if the owners have improved their accommodation at Chateau St Vincent, but can only suggest careful research before booking.  It is not cheap.  This was our second disappointing chateau booking in ten years.  We just will not take the chance again – and so probably may miss out on some delightful places…

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g1079324-d2569183-r460612211-Chateau_Saint_Vincent-Bazas_Gironde_Nouvelle_Aquitaine.html

 

25th November

 

BAZAS – NOWHERE FOR A BREAKFAST

 

After turning out of the heavy gates we drove the short way into the town of Bazas looking for breakfast.  There were only two cafés open.  Neither was serving anything but croissants  A cafe  in the large and impressive town square was not yet open.  Thankfully, behind a raised pavement edged by railings, and under a colonnade of  large, wide arches, we saw the tourist office – and it was open.

GIRONDE - Misty morning in Bazas
Misty morning in Bazas

 

BAZAS TOURIST OFFICE – WELCOMING AND CONCERNED

 

The young woman within was very welcoming, even though she had just opened the doors.  She listened to our tale of woe with genuine concern, and asked us to send a written report when we got home.  (That was not to be until 1st December; and once home I promptly caught a virus, which sent me to bed for over a week and left me devoid of energy, so I’m not sure she ever got a copy of the report I wrote for Booking.com and later, Trip Advisor.)

 

GIRONDE - Hotel de Ville - Bazas
Hotel de Ville – Bazas

 

BAZAS – A TOWN OF INTEREST AND CHARACTER

 

We had a quick look round the town, which made us wish we had more time to explore further.  We decided reluctantly that there was no time to visit the cathedral.  Instead, we entered a very interesting sort of ‘under-croft’ at the top end of the square.  It had once housed the weekly market.  It also had a large trough where clothes were communally washed (probably with many a quip) before the invention of washing machines.  Now there were a few historical bits and pieces put in there – possibly to over-winter in the dry before a proper exhibition was erected in the following spring.  An arch led out to the imposing Hotel de Ville.

Bazas is an interesting town, and we would like to go back (but not to that chateau!)  The surrounding area holds much to justify such a grand tourist office.  More staff came in to start work; they were all equally helpful and friendly.

From then on we had good service everywhere we stayed and enjoyed some truly great meals at a very fair price.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Feature Photograph by Alex Cipolle

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Favourite French B&B - Abbey

OUR FAVOURITE FRENCH B&B

 

23rd November 2016

VILLELONGUE: AUDE

 

Our favourite French B&B is hidden in Villelongue, a small village in Aude, France – Villelongue Coté Jardin, Location Chambre d’hôte dans l’Aude.  It is a charming old farmhouse.  You can hardly see it from the road as it is hidden in greenery.

It has a good-sized rear garden that backs onto the outer wall of the very famous and historic Abbaye-de-Villelongue.

The Abbaye also lets rooms – but they do not appear to be at all like those next door that we have so often enjoyed.   The two sisters, Claude and Renee, have spent years hunting for antique furniture and gradually restoring their family home back to its former glory.

Favourite French B&B - Villelongue
Villelongue

 

Favourite French B&B - Renee, Jackiie & Claude
Renee, Jackiie & Claude

VILLELONGUE COTÉ JARDIN – ALWAYS A WARM WELCOME

 

Claude Antoine and her sister Renee welcome their visitors upon arrival.  Tea or coffee and biscuits or homemade cakes are brought into their private sitting room.  ‘Booking in’ with lots of literature to peruse, commences after a short, friendly chat. (Both sisters speak English – and probably many other languages, as they have paying guests from many countries).   Claude is robust and jolly, while Renee has a sharp and acerbic wit that we greatly enjoy.

Favourite French B&B - Diningroom
Diningroom
Favourite French B&B - Elm Stairs
Elm Stairs

 

 

VILLELONGUE COTÉ JARDIN – SPACIOUS, ATTRACTIVE BEDROOMS –

 

The spacious bedrooms are furnished in antiques, and you will probably lay your head on an embroidered pillowcase.  The dining and sitting rooms are equally charming and even quirky in places.

 

Favourite French B&B - bedroom
A Groundfloor Bedroom
Favourite French B&B - bedroom
An Upstairs Bedroom

 

VILLELONGUE COTÉ JARDIN – LARGE BATHROOMS – EVERYTHING WORKS

 

All adjoining bathrooms are spacious, too, and some have antique furniture.  ALL have lashings of hot water, showers and baths that work – and generous, thirsty towels and lovely toiletries.

 

Favourite French B&B - Bathroom
The Groundfloor Bathroom
Favourite French B&B - Bathroom
An Upstairs Bathroom

 

VILLELONGUE COTÉ JARDIN – EVERY BREAKFAST IS A FEAST

 

But that’s not all.  The sisters serve breakfast and sit down and join their guests in stoking up on the first meal of the day.

You will be offered a copious country breakfast with three kinds of crusty bread, five types of hard cheese; meats, fruits (fresh or stewed); several home made jams, and lashings of hot, fragrant coffee or a proper pot of tea.

 

AS FOR THE DINNERS – MARVELLOUS FOOD AND LIVELY CONVERSATION

 

They also offer beautifully home-cooked, generous four-course dinners of local produce (quite likely their own – as with duck and chicken, too.)  Wine is included.

We have been with them on our own, as on this occasion, but we have also sat down to a table of fourteen people.  Ten of the guests were an extended Spanish family – and yes, the sisters between them spoke in three languages.  Everyone got on famously.

I just hope that telling you all this will not mean that we will be unable to make another booking!

 

BLACK MARK, JACKIE…

 

In March 2016 I definitely wrote an email to Claude asking her if it would be possible for us to stay for one night late in November.  Would they still be open?

I am pretty certain she wrote back to say arrangements could be made.

By November I was certain in my own mind that I had followed this up at some point with the definite booking for November 23rd.  But March is a long way away from November.  Even if I did… And Claude is very efficient; I imagine it would probably have been entered into a register.

 

THE WORST STORM IN AUDE HISTORY

 

We could hardly see out of the Golf’s streaming windscreen.  Graham had to inch through the last miles of country lanes taking us to St Martin-le-Vieil, and then on to the Abbey de Villelongue.  We arrived outside the farmhouse about 7pm, and were instantly soaked through as we jumped out of our car.

 

CLAUDE SEES HAMMER-HORROR APPARITIONS

 

And so it was that on that dark and stormy night two wet and bedraggled visitors hammered on the front door, hoping that the sisters in their flat above would hear us.  As great luck would have it Claude appeared with an armful of wood from the store at the back of the house.

She gasped when she saw us through the small pane of glass in the door  (and who could blame her?)  She was soon joined by Renée, who frowned: but the door was opened and

“What are you doing here?” was quickly followed by “You’d better come inside.”

In the downstairs hall I reminded them of the booking made in March.  Claude denied all knowledge of it.  I think that because we had corresponded as friends she had forgotten she’d answered ‘Yes, come – welcome’, or words to that effect.  After all, it had been eight months ago!

They were clearly put out, having ‘closed down’ for the winter.  They appeared to ignore our profuse apologies.  I felt about five years old; I expected to be told to stand in the corner…

 

THE SISTERS QUICKLY ADAPT – I SHRINK…

 

Nevertheless they quickly adapted and even insisted on coming out to help us with our bags, ignoring our insistence that it was not necessary, as we were only bringing in small knapsacks.  I felt awful; a guilty small girl again – and I expect Graham felt the same…

 

NOT EXPECTED…

 

“We have not prepared food for you,” said Renee, ushering us into their comfortable sitting room (TV in here – a large one, which was promptly turned off).  Their pretty cat came over to greet us – she seemed to remember us from former stays.

“Please don’t worry about food,” I said, remembering the sumptuous four-course feasts they usually provided.  “We have little appetite –we’re recovering from ‘flu – but well past passing it on,” I explained hastily.  “If it is at all possible just a small bowl of soup each would be welcome – but please don’t go to any trouble.”

I felt pretty certain that such accomplished cooks would have some stock and leftovers or something, which they could quickly rustle up into a soup.

As it was we warmed up in front of a blazing log fire, and in about an hour two welcome bowls of gruel appeared.  I wistfully hoped some bread would accompany it, but I guess they had none to spare.   BUT- we were given the bedroom on the ground floor, which was a new delight for us (it has an especially lovely bathroom).

 

A HOUSE WITH A LONG HISTORY

 

Many centuries ago their house was the living quarters of the monks in the adjoining famous abbey. Then – I do not know how far back, it became the farmhouse for the Villelongue estate and the home of the sisters’ family.

In World War 2 it was taken over by the Maquis – the French Resistance.

 

HARD WORK – GOOD TASTE – PERFECTION ACHIEVED

 

All I know is that when the sisters moved back in the house was in a sorry state, with little or no furniture.  Now, thanks to very hard work and shrewd buying at auctions etc. it is sympathetically restored, and full of lovely antique furniture.  In every spacious room the beds are large and very comfortable, and there are armchairs and coffee tables.       (No TV’s though, which did not worry us, as we don’t speak French.  We are delighted to enjoy the elegant country lifestyle here instead.)

 

CLAUDE HAD A GIFT OF RARE WOOD FOR GRAHAM

 

Claude had emailed in March to say she had some exotic wood for Graham, which was when I had replied to request this booking.  It was our fourth stay with them in their historic house, but this time for only one night. (I must confess here that due to the ‘flu we had both forgotten to remind them in advance of this November arrival.)  

 

WE SHARE THE SISTERS’ BREAKFAST

 

In the morning we were invited to share their breakfast, more modest than in ‘the Season’. But there was still the same delicious crunchy bread, a small selection of local cheeses and their usual range of homemade jams, and even dark orange marmalade (“brought from England by a guest”).

They had quite recovered from their shock and annoyance at us, but Claude shook Graham gently, laughed and said “Next time you come for more than one night.  Yes?”  So we know that before too long we will have to plan a holiday that takes us to the Midi-Pyrenees again. (Not such a hardship, really…)

NOTE:  And we did – we stayed FIVE nights with them in 2018 at their special rate for over three nights.

 

CLAUDE AND GRAHAM FORAGE IN HER BARN

 

While I dug out the Euros, Claude led Graham across the garden to their huge barn and the log she had been saving for him (there is generally a gift of interesting wood for my craftsman husband.

This time he had to somehow find room in our overcrowded car for a log of rare Osage Orange (Maclura Pomifera).  She cut him a generous length.  There was enough to pass some on to my cousin Clive to experiment with in his woodturning (he was thrilled when presented with it upon our return).  Also, she insisted we take a small branch of boxwood.  I was amazed that Graham managed to find room for it in the back of our car, already piled high with luggage, wine and presents).

They both came out to see us off.  This time I ventured to hug them both closely.

 

THEY HAD NOT EXPECTED A HUG – BUT THEY GOT ONE JUST THE SAME

 

“You are true good friends,” I told them when they had at last laid down the backpacks they had carried down for us.  They both looked slightly startled.  “You made Graham special soup last year when he was feeling poorly, and we stayed an extra day without notice.  And now we descended on you without proper notice again, and you still made us welcome and went to some trouble for us.  I call that true friendship.”

“Then as friends you will stay longer next time,” Renee said with mock-sternness.”

They waited by their gate until Graham had turned our car – then waved us off all the way to the corner in the lane…

 

And with that I joined Graham in our extremely dusty car, and off we went; to explore Auch, presented as ‘The birthplace of D’Artagnan’, just as though the Fourth Musketeer had existed outside the pages of Alexander Dumas’ book!

 

Favourite French B&B - Villelongue
Villelongue

 

TO DISCUSS OR BOOK DIRECTLY: email this address:

Claude ANTOINEvillelongue-cote-jardins@orange.fr

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

 

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Relaxing in the South of France - The B&B at Sorges was a haven where we could relax

Relaxing in the South of France.

, , , , , ,

We Stop for Relaxing and Feasting.

Day 5: 6th & 7th September:

SORGES:

 

Relaxing in the South of France - Our B&B - The beautiful old long farmhouse at Sorges - shaded by a large Sweet Chestnut tree
Our B&B – The beautiful old long farmhouse at Sorges – shaded by a large Sweet Chestnut tree

 

 

 

We were now well and truly in the North Dordogne.  The countryside we passed through became increasingly beautiful, and we noticed a change in the style of buildings old and new.

 

SORGES – RETURNING TO A LOVELY WELCOMING B&B

 

After a few days non-stop travelling it’s good to take a breather.  Relaxing:  part of why we all go away.  The South of France is  great for this.  We had booked months ahead at Le Grain D’Art,  a lovely old farmhouse just outside Sorges belonging to Christian and Marie.

 

 

THE COLOUR-THEMED ROOMS OF A GIFTED ARTIST

 

Marie is a very gifted artist, and this is evident in the way she throws unusual colours together in decorating her home.  Her combinations always work. When we arrived in early September we were given the same lovely, spacious ‘Apple room’ for two nights as two years before. The Apple Room is detached, with its own shower room and a separate WC.  French doors lead straight into the garden… Le Grain D’Art

Marie was away taking a course, but her husband, Christian, despite being awoken from his afternoon nap, made us welcome and later provided the same generous breakfasts with a choice of three crusty French breads and home-made jams, as well as cereal, yoghourt, fresh fruit and lavish coffee.  It was very hot (38C) and so we rested on our free day.  Instead of visiting again favourite places like Perigueux, Brantome and Sarlat-le-Caneda, we just lazed around.

relaxing in the South of France -Sarlat-le-Caneda - A must see-beautiful medieval town with narrow winding streets and towering buildings - close to Sorges
Sarlat-le-Caneda – A must see-beautiful medieval town with narrow winding streets and towering buildings – close to Sorges

 

We Just Love Eating At –

 

The night we arrived we had skipped dinner altogether – it was still 38C at around 6pm.  On our second evening we went for a splendid meal at Marie’s favourite restaurant, the Auberge de la Truffe in nearby Sorges.  They’d made a great fuss of us the year before.  This time, like most of the diners, we passed through the beautifully-laid formal restaurant and ate instead in the pretty courtyard, under an awning that kept out some of the heat (about 36C.) The service and food were superb as ever; we felt truly pampered.  This is a lovely, lovely restaurant, both in decor and the attention to detail in EVERYTHING – but especially the food, which looks almost too good to eat – but we did, and enjoyed every morsel.  Auberge de la Truffe is an exceptional dining place.

 

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps

 

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tunnel-to-adventure-12 - Northern France - Country Road between Open Fields

Tunnel to Adventure!

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Finding the Hotel was an Adventure!

DAY 1: 3rd September:

BRUAY-La-BUISSIERE:

 

This time we started our Adventure using the Channel tunnel, welcoming the 25-minute rest and leg-stretch before reaching the other side, just outside Calais.  As we emerged from the tunnel seeking the toll road I wound down the window.  Immediately we noticed that France smelled ‘different’ – but in what respect, we could not say.  Sadly, inclement weather followed us from England.

tunnel-to-adventure
Day one and two – Google map of our route.

 

FRENCH TOLL ROADS

tunnel-to-adventure
Typical sign indicating to an Aire

 

 

 

French toll roads, if you use a lot of them, can prove expensive, but there is generally little traffic on them. You can zoom down them when you have a definite destination.

LOVE THE RESTFUL WAYSIDE STOPS

 

These roads have a great feature that our British motorways could emulate. Every twenty kilometres or so you will come across this type of sign: French roadside Aires are quite wonderful, compared with Britain’s Motorway Services.   These quiet, secluded picnic parks sometimes have cafes.  All provide free facilities:  Tables with benches, and always clean toilets.  Many have showers.  All provide a tap to fill your own bottle of cold drinking water.  Advance signs may show added facilities in many.  Most are set in woodland where you can walk off your car fatigue and rest your eyes.

 

 

BRUAY-LA-BUISSIERE – ELUSIVE  HOTEL IS GOOD

 

Graham wanted to drive further in than Calais, so I had booked B&B at a little place called Hotel le Cottage, at Bruay-La-Buissiere.   It is off the A26 road a bit beyond Bethune.  (We had stayed in that small town on a previous tour.  It is typically northern French.  Strong Flemish influences show in the tall, thin gables of the buildings surrounding the square.  We remembered fondly the great breakfasts we had in a very good cafe-bar facing the church.)

tunnel-to-adventure
Bethune was a place we once stopped over after crossing the channel

Our small hotel in La Buissiere took a bit of finding. Even Miss SatNav was confused. Eventually we discovered we had already passed it in the high street:  The hotel stood well back from the road.

 

LE COTTAGE – OLD-FASHIONED AND SIMPLE – GOOD VALUE

 

It was a little old-fashioned, and our room small, but it had a good shower and ample towels.  In the morning the ‘self-service’ breakfast was well attended by the family staff.  Plentiful wrapped jams and butters, but very good pain-au-chocolat and croissants, and exceptional yoghourts.  I’d say it is above average for a place that clearly caters for British coaches bound for the war graves.  The price, in retrospect, proved competitive.  I have no hesitation in recommending it as a first stop.
Hotel le Cottage,292 avenue de la Liberation, 62700 Bruay-la-Buissiere, France

 

WE ARE FED BY A CROCODILE!

 

Only thing – they were not opening their dining room for the evening, and so we had to resort to looking in a ‘commercial Complex’.  We chose a ‘Crocodile’ – part of a Belgian chain catering to families.  It was very crowded, and the food wasn’t at all bad, but the free wine was undrinkable, Graham said – and neither of us tried the Free Beer!

 

The next day we had planned a medieval route towards the Dordogne.

 

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)

Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – Most of the images have been  taken by Graham though in this blog all Orleans photos, the Restaurant and Vierzon came from other sources.

 

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