Jackie Usher

About Jackie Usher

Posts by Jackie Usher:

February 6, 2018

Road to L’Aquila

Jackie Usher Forests-Mountains-Streams, Restaurants, Travel

DAY 13: 15th September: L’Aquila:

Road to L'Aquila-Route6-L'aquila — Road to L’Aquila-

EARTHQUAKES MAKE US CHANGE OUR ROUTE:

Because of very recent earthquakes in Norcia and surrounding hilltop villages, we decided to change our original very scenic journey. (We would be missing out the treasures of Urbino. Also the beauty and history of Sassoferrato, which had certainly looked great on Google Images). We decided we must steer well clear of those areas in or close to the disaster zone. The populations and rescuers would not welcome holidaymakers cluttering up the roads, and we certainly did not want to be seen as gawping at the residents’ misfortunes.

FROM MOUNTAIN TO FOREST – A SUDDEN RISE IN TEMPERATURE

But the road we chose instead was also truly spectacular. It started off amongst mountains when we were driving at first through a frosty and misty landscape. The car indicator read 12 degrees Celsius. It gradually warmed up as we slowly descended through thick and beautiful forest.

Road to L'Aquila-Are we nearly there yet-3-Monastry in the hills - The end of the Journey — On a spur of a hill sat a beautiful – very small – agricultural community and monastery.

Here Were Bandits…

Presently we were in a gently undulating green clearing, with most unusual ‘humps’. They suggested prehistoric graves beneath, such as you find all around Stonehenge, back in England. Our road narrowed almost to a track – it even had wild grass growing down the middle. We were delighted to come across a roadside stop, which proved to be more than a café – it had rooms for hire, and Graham learned while sharing a very good coffee with a guest, that these are taken by hunters.

‘The woods are full of boar and some deer, as well as smaller animals,’ he was told, as they admired an eagle soaring overhead, and – ‘Not so long ago there were bandit tribes in those forests, who would come down and raid the homesteads on the plains.’

TWO MINOR DISAPPOINTMENTS

I so hoped we could stop off at Bagno di Romagno which sounded historically interesting; but it was at the start of the day’s journey, so I backed down.

Road to L'Aquila--Umbrium-Farmhouse - The end of the Journey — This farmhouse was typical of the area

The next town – Citta di Castello (City of the Castle) sounded romantic. It was a sore disappointment; 1950’s/60’smodern and drab – perhaps it was a rebuild after an earthquake. So we pushed on to Spoleto, which we had visited before, passing views of lakes and more distant mountains. By this time we were hungry and stopped at a roadside garage. I remember we bought ciabattas at the pasticceria attached to the place. Across a field was an old farmhouse that is so typical of Umbria that Graham took a photo.

SPOLETO

We had a little walk around Spoleto. (I remember re-visiting the smallish Roman amphitheatre, next to a very attractive old building), but this time it wasn’t open so we had to peer through the railings.

It is a pretty town – on a rise, but not what you could call a real hilltop, like so many others in Italy.

Road to L'Aquila--Spoleto-Roman-gateway - The end of the Journey — Roman gateway – Spoleto

We by-passed Terni, which we well-remembered for its charms, and had to content ourselves with distant views of Rieti, perched on a hill deep amongst green-clad mountains. You can’t stop everywhere! (Though I’d love to – I’m insatiable, when it comes to travelling).

Road to L'Aquila--Rieti-in-the-hills - The end of the Journey — A glimpse of Rieti amongst the hills

PRESSING ON:

By then, we wanted to press on with our journey. L’Aquila would be our last stop before Grottole. To save money we booked rooms in a farmhouse there for the next seven weeks. Here Graham could research for his next novel, set in nearby Matera.

HAD WE COME TO THE WRONG ADDRESS?

We were baffled at first to find our B&B address was an apartment block, and we ‘shared’ a flat with unseen guests in another room. It was evidently using an empty new build after the devastating earthquake in 2009. There was great language confusion at first, but Rosina, our hostess, showed endless patience and good humour.

A GREAT WELCOME – GREAT b&b

The room was charming; very clean, with a large, comfortable bed. Great shower, and 3 good-sized towels each, nice toiletries – and we were asked what we wanted for breakfast! Italians don’t ‘do’ breakfast, so she had amassed a great selection of homemade cakes and breads for us. We had enjoyed a great meal the previous evening at a Trattoria she’d recommended just down the road: but only after Graham took a million pictures of the spectacular sunset over the mountains.

Road to L'Aquila--sunset-at-L'aquila - The end of the Journey — An end to a glorious day – sunset at L’Aquila

http://www.aquariumbnb.altervista.org/
Off the next morning to start the next chapter, and main purpose in our big adventure:

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – All other images have been taken by Graham using an Olympus VR-370.

January 25, 2018

We Fall in Love with Padua

Jackie Usher Food markets Lemon presse, Porcini

Italian Ice Cream Cools us Down.

DAY 11: 13th September: MESTRE:

We fall in love with Padua on our fifth route, stopping at Padua- a city to fall in love withe-4-Mestre — Our fifth route, which would start to lead us down through Italy

We fall in love with Padua-on-route-to-Presezzo — Our route wove between high wooded hills

We fall in love with Padua, although on this short three-day trip we explored four centres.

Everyone who visits Venice exudes rapture with that place and we were making a return visit. To save money we stayed just outside in Mestre, a little town on our road. We had booked a night there online, choosing ‘B&B Rivo Alto’ 821 in Mestre. Because the direct route was very short, we went via Piacenza. Some impressive buildings were glimpsed briefly through its ancient city walls on a previous Italian holiday.

We fall in love with Padua-Main-piazza-Piacenza — The piazza was home to magnificent buildings

We had always vowed to go back and explore Piacenza further, but somehow, because of parking restrictions, we walked for miles without finding an entrance to the ancient walled centre. However, we followed the very large museum round to the back, where we were able to sink onto shaded steps, and watch as an Art exhibition was being prepared for assembly inside.

We fall in love with Padua--Piacenza-urn — With its stand this urn stood over five foot high – it dwarfed Jackie

Graham took a photograph of an enormous Greek amphora that stood beside one of the doors. Despite many visible repairs, its beauty was impressive. We became hungry, and mindful of passing time, so left the centre to explore on another holiday.

Heat bounced off the pavements as we plodded four streets back to our even hotter car.

Reaching Mestre, we had great difficulty finding our guest house. We were rescued by the proprietor of the excellent artisan gelateria in the town, who gave us some of his wonderful ice cream and personally phoned the owners, who were at work! They had forgotten all about our booking. To be fair, it had been made months before.

We found the house tucked down a track-road right beside a major highway. When we at last met the owners they plied us with wine, and went to buy special foods for our breakfast. We were totally won over by their charm and concern for us, and we loved our artistically decorated bedroom: So we are happy to recommend this small, personal B&B.‘B&B Rivo Alto’ 821 Mestre.

We had planned to re-visit Venice that evening, and also the next morning, as we knew we would arrive in Mestre mid-afternoon. But by that time it was too late, and after just looking up the restaurants in the town we have no memory of eating out. We guess we felt the heat and probably brought out uneaten rolls bought for lunch in one of the many excellent pasticcerias, and washed them down with water.

WE FALL IN LOVE WITH PADUA – IT’S SOMEP’N ELSE!

DAY 12: 14th September:

In the morning we made a decision: We actually decided to skip Venice this time and leave it for a Bargain 4 Nights (they do come up) when we’d maybe actually stay on the Grand Canal. Instead, we decided we would drive to our next stop via Padua, which is less visited, but has some famous mosaics.

We fall in love with Padua--Padua-Cool-collonade — Cool colonnade

Tired and dejected, we drove back to Padua, and immediately were so delighted that we spent almost the entire day there. It’s absolutely wonderful; practically ALL historical, and spacious because it was always a very rich city.

The beautiful old buildings are still in the centre of daily life, and treasures abound, particularly in St Anthony’s Cathedral; so much gold, so many wonderful sculptures and paintings – it was all just TOO much to take in. We could not understand why Padua is not a major tourist destination – but were grateful for the fact. We plan to return and stay in Padua some day.

We fall in love with Padua--Padua-covered-market — Magnificent indoor market

We fall in love with Padua--Padua-porcini — Porcini – the king of funghi

There were two very colourful markets in piazzas surrounded by medieval buildings (one had the large covered market shown above)… One stall had a very large display of the delicious porcini mushrooms we have grown to love. I stood by, enjoying the aroma, and wished that for once we were self-catering!

We walked down many beautiful old streets, eventually finding ourselves in an enormous grassed arena with Roman statues, and bridges over a little stream. It was again a very hot afternoon, so we plonked ourselves at a bar and bought lemon pressè, and ate a light salad lunch before walking back to our car – but had to stop for yet another Kaffé (espresso) at another nice little bar-cafe on the way, to sit down for a bit, (perhaps you can guess why).

We fall in love with Padua--St Anthony-Padua — St Anthony’s Cathedral

We fall in love with Padua--park-Padua — This was part of a central area full of statues

Then a short journey on the coastal road (via Ravenna) to the start of the mountains of The Marche, and:

SAN MARINO.

HOTEL ON TOP OF A MOUNTAIN

This Independent State within Italy (Yes! Anyone remember the British film ‘Passport to Pimlico’?) has a charming castle atop a very high, pointed volcanic ‘plug’, and we stayed in the Hotel Joli. Although habitually taking coach parties, we two were warmly welcomed and given all help by the receptionist. Considering the position (just under the castle), we had a surprisingly spacious and attractive room at a very reasonable price. I ticked mid-range, but some may consider it ‘budget’.

In the morning the breakfast was also above the average for a self-service. The parking was no problem and free, as we have a blue badge. I can thoroughly recommend this hotel. It is attractive and has retained the personal touch.

Room Tip: We were at the back with a glorious mountain view. (We arrived at sunset; and sunrise was just as impressive.) No noise to disturb us, and staff attention to detail formidable…

We fall in love with Padua--Sunset-San-Marino — View from our bedroom window at sunset

We fall in love with Padua-Sunrise-San-Marino — At dawn

Text by – Jackie Usher SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – All other images have been taken by Graham using an Olympus VR-370.

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January 20, 2018

Embrun – Gateway to Italy…

Jackie Usher Forests-Mountains-Streams, Restaurants Frite, Fromage, Gourmet eating

DAY 8: 10th September:

EMBRUN: Gateway to Italy

We chose Embrun as our last stop in France: Gateway to Italy – it made for an interesting journey. We passed looking around Lyon and Grenoble, and viewing the famous Lac de Serre-Poncon, much visited by the locals.

Before crossing into Italy we stayed overnight at the Hotel Mairie et Marquis in Embrun, situated amongst picturesque old houses in the pretty town square.

Embrun-Gateway to Italy-3-Embrun-Hotel-Mairie — Hotel Mairie in a delightful square in the centre of Embrun

Our room was very small, but well appointed; it was evidently a place accustomed to putting up coach parties. The staff were, however, very friendly and helpful. However, we did not fancy the hotel restaurant – clearly aimed at coach parties. So we walked around and followed the buzz coming from the outside courtyard of a restaurant named Le Gout des Autres. We hoped for a table for two – but oh dear – all outside tables were taken on that hot night.

Embrun-Gateway to Italy-4-Embrun-Dinner — The dish Graham had at the restaurant that evening

‘But we can squeeze you in, inside,’ said the friendly but frantically busy waitress. Graham had misgivings, but the food looked great and we were seated near the door. So glad! Food and ‘house’ wine were both excellent, and very reasonably priced. How the staff worked in that heat, dashing hither and yon, but never getting an order wrong! The French really know how to serve food efficiently, with dignity and a smile…

DAY 9: 11th September:

Onwards to the Border

Embrun-Gateway to Italy-5-French-Italian-Border — The peaks got more impressive as we climbed towards the French/Italian border

The next morning we set out, invigorated by the clean mountain air, and even welcoming the drop in temperature to 15C as we climbed further into the French Alps, which got ever higher as we approached the border with Italy. Traversing a steep hairpin bend we suddenly found ourselves dwarfed by a giant sculpture in red-brown rusted iron.

Embrun-Gateway to Italy-6-French-Italian-Border-Edward-Quimper — This monument to past endeavors took us by surprise

Man of Iron – One of US!

This striking depiction was of a mountaineer in the days when they wore ordinary tweed suits, the legs bound with puttees above their not-so-stout boots – a Victorian adventurer? He wore a fetching broad-brimmed hat. We just had to get out of our car, and another traveller obligingly took our photos.

A plaque on the plinth announced the hero to be ENGLISH – one Edward Whymper, of whom we had never heard, but who we now know was a fearless climber and explorer, who ascended the Matterhorn and set new records in many lands. (He also designed a tent which was still selling to like adventurers a good 100 years later). I now know that we were on L’Aguille L’Argentiere la Bessee (the statue recorded his making the first ascent in 1861).

How splendid for the French to honour an English explorer with such an arresting memorial!!

FAREWELL TO FROMAGE & FRITE –

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – Most of the images have been taken by Graham, though in this blog Hotel Mairie, Embrun, from another source.

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January 7, 2018

Relaxing in the South of France.

Jackie Usher Art, French B&Bs, Getting to know the locals, Local History, Restaurants Day trips, Relaxing, Rough tracks

We Stop for Relaxing and Feasting.

Day 5: 6th & 7th September:

SORGES:

We were now well and truly in the North Dordogne. The countryside we passed through became increasingly beautiful, and we noticed a change in the style of buildings old and new.

SORGES – RETURNING TO A LOVELY WELCOMING B&B

After a few days non-stop travelling it’s good to take a breather. Relaxing: part of why we all go away. The South of France is great for this. We had booked months ahead at Le Grain D’Art, a lovely old farmhouse just outside Sorges belonging to Christian and Marie.

THE COLOUR-THEMED ROOMS OF A GIFTED ARTIST

Marie is a very gifted artist, and this is evident in the way she throws unusual colours together in decorating her home. Her combinations always work. When we arrived in early September we were given the same lovely, spacious ‘Apple room’ for two nights as two years before. The Apple Room is detached, with its own shower room and a separate WC. French doors lead straight into the garden… Le Grain D’Art

Marie was away taking a course, but her husband, Christian, despite being awoken from his afternoon nap, made us welcome and later provided the same generous breakfasts with a choice of three crusty French breads and home-made jams, as well as cereal, yoghourt, fresh fruit and lavish coffee. It was very hot (38C) and so we rested on our free day. Instead of visiting again favourite places like Perigueux, Brantome and Sarlat-le-Caneda, we just lazed around.

relaxing in the South of France -Sarlat-le-Caneda - A must see-beautiful medieval town with narrow winding streets and towering buildings - close to Sorges — Sarlat-le-Caneda – A must see-beautiful medieval town with narrow winding streets and towering buildings – close to Sorges

We Just Love Eating At –

The night we arrived we had skipped dinner altogether – it was still 38C at around 6pm. On our second evening we went for a splendid meal at Marie’s favourite restaurant, the Auberge de la Truffe in nearby Sorges. They’d made a great fuss of us the year before. This time, like most of the diners, we passed through the beautifully-laid formal restaurant and ate instead in the pretty courtyard, under an awning that kept out some of the heat (about 36C.) The service and food were superb as ever; we felt truly pampered. This is a lovely, lovely restaurant, both in decor and the attention to detail in EVERYTHING – but especially the food, which looks almost too good to eat – but we did, and enjoyed every morsel. Auberge de la Truffe is an exceptional dining place.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps

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January 7, 2018

Tunnel to Adventure!

Jackie Usher Entering France, Food, French B&Bs, Travel Driving, Good Roads, Medieval route, Welcome

Finding the Hotel was an Adventure!

DAY 1: 3rd September:

BRUAY-La-BUISSIERE:

This time we started our Adventure using the Channel tunnel, welcoming the 25-minute rest and leg-stretch before reaching the other side, just outside Calais. As we emerged from the tunnel seeking the toll road I wound down the window. Immediately we noticed that France smelled ‘different’ – but in what respect, we could not say. Sadly, inclement weather followed us from England.

tunnel-to-adventure — Day one and two – Google map of our route.

FRENCH TOLL ROADS

French toll roads, if you use a lot of them, can prove expensive, but there is generally little traffic on them. You can zoom down them when you have a definite destination.

LOVE THE RESTFUL WAYSIDE STOPS

These roads have a great feature that our British motorways could emulate. Every twenty kilometres or so you will come across this type of sign: French roadside Aires are quite wonderful, compared with Britain’s Motorway Services. These quiet, secluded picnic parks sometimes have cafes. All provide free facilities: Tables with benches, and always clean toilets. Many have showers. All provide a tap to fill your own bottle of cold drinking water. Advance signs may show added facilities in many. Most are set in woodland where you can walk off your car fatigue and rest your eyes.

BRUAY-LA-BUISSIERE – ELUSIVE HOTEL IS GOOD

Graham wanted to drive further in than Calais, so I had booked B&B at a little place called Hotel le Cottage, at Bruay-La-Buissiere. It is off the A26 road a bit beyond Bethune. (We had stayed in that small town on a previous tour. It is typically northern French. Strong Flemish influences show in the tall, thin gables of the buildings surrounding the square. We remembered fondly the great breakfasts we had in a very good cafe-bar facing the church.)

Our small hotel in La Buissiere took a bit of finding. Even Miss SatNav was confused. Eventually we discovered we had already passed it in the high street: The hotel stood well back from the road.

LE COTTAGE – OLD-FASHIONED AND SIMPLE – GOOD VALUE

It was a little old-fashioned, and our room small, but it had a good shower and ample towels. In the morning the ‘self-service’ breakfast was well attended by the family staff. Plentiful wrapped jams and butters, but very good pain-au-chocolat and croissants, and exceptional yoghourts. I’d say it is above average for a place that clearly caters for British coaches bound for the war graves. The price, in retrospect, proved competitive. I have no hesitation in recommending it as a first stop.
Hotel le Cottage,292 avenue de la Liberation, 62700 Bruay-la-Buissiere, France

WE ARE FED BY A CROCODILE!

Only thing – they were not opening their dining room for the evening, and so we had to resort to looking in a ‘commercial Complex’. We chose a ‘Crocodile’ – part of a Belgian chain catering to families. It was very crowded, and the food wasn’t at all bad, but the free wine was undrinkable, Graham said – and neither of us tried the Free Beer!

The next day we had planned a medieval route towards the Dordogne.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)

Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – Most of the images have been taken by Graham though in this blog all Orleans photos, the Restaurant and Vierzon came from other sources.

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Jackie Usher

About Jackie Usher

Posts by Jackie Usher:

Road to L’Aquila

DAY 13: 15th September: L’Aquila:

EARTHQUAKES MAKE US CHANGE OUR ROUTE:

FROM MOUNTAIN TO FOREST – A SUDDEN RISE IN TEMPERATURE

Here Were Bandits…

TWO MINOR DISAPPOINTMENTS

PRESSING ON:

HAD WE COME TO THE WRONG ADDRESS?

A GREAT WELCOME – GREAT b&b

http://www.aquariumbnb.altervista.org/ Off the next morning to start the next chapter, and main purpose in our big adventure:

We Fall in Love with Padua

Italian Ice Cream Cools us Down.

DAY 11: 13th September: MESTRE:

DAY 12: 14th September:

SAN MARINO.

HOTEL ON TOP OF A MOUNTAIN

Embrun – Gateway to Italy…

EMBRUN: Gateway to Italy

DAY 9: 11th September:

Onwards to the Border

Man of Iron – One of US!

FAREWELL TO FROMAGE & FRITE –

Relaxing in the South of France.

We Stop for Relaxing and Feasting.

Day 5: 6th & 7th September:

SORGES:

SORGES – RETURNING TO A LOVELY WELCOMING B&B

THE COLOUR-THEMED ROOMS OF A GIFTED ARTIST

We Just Love Eating At –

Tunnel to Adventure!

Finding the Hotel was an Adventure!

DAY 1: 3rd September:

BRUAY-La-BUISSIERE:

FRENCH TOLL ROADS

LOVE THE RESTFUL WAYSIDE STOPS

BRUAY-LA-BUISSIERE – ELUSIVE HOTEL IS GOOD

WE ARE FED BY A CROCODILE!

http://www.aquariumbnb.altervista.org/
Off the next morning to start the next chapter, and main purpose in our big adventure: