Greeting friends

August 9, 2020

POMPEI – B&B GIVES TLC

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Fond Farewells, Food, Italian B&Bs, Visiting friends Greeting friends, Local restaurant

14^th November:

POMPEI:

IN THE GRIP OF RAGING INFLUENZA

Pompei was our next stop, where we were fearful of taking our germs. We were both thankful that the journey that day took only 2hrs 22 minutes, because by now the influenza symptoms were raging within me, also. We both dreamed of taking our aching limbs straight back into bed.

POMPEI – HOW WE FIRST MET OUR ITALIAN FAMILY

We had booked four nights with Martina and her brother Salvatore in their B&B La Casa di Plinio. For some years now it has been rated in Trip Advisor as the No.1 ‘Hotel’ in Pompei. This was our fourth stay with them. We had received such a warm welcome on our very first visit in 2009 to view the ruins, when Martina’s mother, Antonella, was in charge of La Casa de Plinio (Martina being on holiday).

B&B Pompei | La Casa di Plinio ttps://www.lacasadiplinio.com/en/homepage/

POMPEI – WELCOMED WITH WINE AND CAKES

Antonella had insisted on ushering us into the owner’s private kitchen, where she plied us with wine and cakes (we had been out for a pizza already). When her husband, Andrea, came in from work, we settled into a convivial evening, with the help of a tablet he owned (very new, then) which translated our conversations both ways.

POMPEI – GOING BACK IN ORDER TO SEE THE REST OF ANCIENT POMPEII

So in 2011 we arranged our route to stay a night or two at La Casa di Plinio with this welcoming family on our way down to the heel of Italy.

We also booked five nights in 2014, planning to view the ‘other end’ of the vast Roman site. (We like to take our time and explore in depth).

IN 2014 CONSERVATION OF ANCIENT POMPEII LED US TO HERCULANEUM

It was a bitter disappointment then to find that all the great villas at the station end of the Pompeii site were closed for conservation – including the famous brothel, with its naughty murals.

POMPEI – A ‘DROP-EVERYTHING’ WELCOME

Pompei - B&B gives TLC - Vincenzo — Vincenzo

The minute we arrived at La Casa di Plinio in 2014 Martina must have telephoned the entire family, because within ten minutes all were there, kissing and hugging us. Martina’s partner Vincenzo, and Salvatore, her brother roared up on their motorbikes. They had taken time off work just in order to show us their pleasure at our arrival!

2014 – WE ARE TOLD ‘YOU ARE OUR FAMILY’

Martina and Salvatore’s mother, Antonella, closely followed them. She is an incredibly beautiful woman with a heart as fair as her face. She was leading HER mother…

That was when we were told ‘you are our family, Jackie; Graham. You eat with us tonight. Andrea will be home from Naples.’ Thus was formed a bond which will never break. Italians really treasure ‘famiglia’. More openly apparent than in some families back in England.

HERCULANEUM

WE ‘TRY’ HERCULANEUM – AND FIND IT REWARDING

We had already thoroughly explored the two colossea in Pompeii: Also the forum, the graveyard and the numerous streets that led to the site café. We reluctantly decided that perhaps a trip to nearby Herculaneum might be the better option on that holiday. It was a fortunate decision. In some ways the smaller site is more rewarding. In Herculaneum many houses, and even blocks of Roman flats, are still quite intact. This was due to the way the holiday resort was instantly buried under hot ash. This preserved even wooden furniture (now in Naples museum) and balcony rails and still-bright roof tiles. I would love to see one house furnished with replicas of the originals.

HERCULANEUM – FOSSILISED SKELETONS OF FLEEING FAMILIES

Instead of casts of the bodies found, as in Pompeii, in Herculaneum you can still view the fossilized skeletons of the families who had fled to the ‘last haven’ – the boathouses by the old seashore. We found it intensely moving, as did Lolly and other visitors on our later trips.

POMPEI – DRIVING AROUND VESUVIUS

We also drove the winding road around Vesuvius, discovering some intriguing towns. One was full of very good wall paintings. We bought excellent ‘volcanic’ wine, and fresh cherries and other fruits from farmers selling at the roadside.

POMPEI – A FEAST WITH OUR ITALIAN ‘FAMIGLIA’

There was a memorable feast that year (2014) with our ‘famiglia’. It was the night before we first explored Bari, and hopped on the overnight ferry to Croatia. It was supposed to be our treat to our lovely host family. However, we strongly suspected that Andrea, the father, had another arrangement with the owner of the restaurant they picked.

– AND AN ASSORTMENT OF RELATIVES AND FRIENDS

We sat outside at a large table placed beneath cunningly lit vines. It was all very romantic. Andrea insisted on taking over the ordering. Food kept coming – in the Italian way. As did various relatives and friends of the family. They would turn up and plonk themselves down on a spare chair, and often partake of a course or two. This is also a common Italian custom. The lovable Italian people open their big hearts so readily. They are the experts in extending celebration and welcome to all who seek them out: An example to us all.

Since then we have been embraced as part of the Casa di Plinio family – Antonella, Andrea, and their children Salvatore and Martina; and Martina’s partner, Vincenzo.

POMPEI – BACK IN 2016 AGAIN – HUGS, KISSES AND COOKING:

As usual, the moment we turned into the courtyard, Martina was on her mobile phone, rushing down from her flat and letting us in through the large gate. Within fifteen minutes the entire family surrounded us. We were hugging and kissing (couldn’t stop them, but averted our faces when they kissed – we didn’t wish to pass on our germs).

Salvatore and Vincenzo had left their work, and had to rush back – but they still came. As usual, roaring up on their motorbikes.

Andrea’s work took him much further afield, but that evening he cooked a special welcome meal for us in the house where he and Antonella live. Graham and I struggled to do justice to the delicious food, the ‘flu having robbed us of all appetite.

POMPEI – WE RECEIVE TLC.

Our Italian family (they long ago adopted us) were great. I don’t know what we would have done without their loving help. They were in the throes of redecorating all the rooms, which they do every year. They did not close while the refurbishing went on, as they had planned.

Despite this we both stayed in bed for three days, and because I was still very poorly they agreed that we could stay out the week, which gave me two more days in bed. So Martina accepted another couple, and also an Italian family, the mother of whom became a thorn in her side. ‘I’ll never accept Italians again. They are the worst,’ she declared. (I’m sure that’s not true, really.)

MARTINA NURSES ME – AND CANCELS OUR NEXT B&B’S

Graham got up on the fourth day but I stayed in bed. Martina had the work of cancelling two nights at Cinque Terre and one at Orange, which we had both looked forward to seeing. We’d also very regretfully cancelled our original booking to stay again at the charming house of Svetlana and Lucio Bigero in the eco-park of Selva Grande. They are very charming people, who welcome you into their home. The accommodation is spacious and colourful, and full of good art. The rest of the house is also a reflection of its lively minded and artistic owners, with lots of books and musical instruments.

B&B Villa Selva Grande, 00060 Sant’Oreste, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy. Phone: +39 329 681 7194

Whilst there, we had planned to again eat at a small restaurant where the chef is ‘passionate about food’. It is situated at the foot of a nearby mountaintop town full of artists and craftsmen. Even the little shops were artistic and colourful.

Instead, we decided on a more direct route of one-night stops in order to reach the Channel tunnel on the 29^th November.

POMPEI – HOT DRINKS AND A LIGHT, NUTRITIOUS LUNCH

Meanwhile, Martina kept popping in with hot drinks and offers to make food. We declined, until on our last day, when I knew I must get up (we’d be travelling next morning).

To our surprise Antonella arrived and cooked lunch for everyone, including Martina’s delightful, hardworking assistant, Anna. We met her wedged in, crowded around the small table. She was passing bowls of a very light spaghetti dish containing Calabrese (and celery? It was a long time ago). I know the sauce was light green and so delicious that I managed to eat half of my bowlful.

Pompei - B&B gives TLC - Farewell Lunch at La Casa di Plinio — Farewell Lunch at La Casa di Plinio

POMPEI – CAR REPAIRS – FAMILY FAREWELLS.

We left Pompei on Sunday the 20^th. November, 2016.

I felt pretty rough, but just well enough to travel. At least the delay had given Graham time in the last day or two to use our friends’ motor mechanic to check out the Golf. (After all our challenges our eleven-year-old steed was starting to show signs of wear.)

A Good job, too! The mechanic found two valves in the water system that were almost blocked. He replaced the cheapest and cleaned the dearest, and said we should now have no trouble and safely see the white cliffs of Dover. (How we were going to do that from the tunnel begs the question…) Graham, delighted by the low bill, said he was being cheerfully Italian.

LEMON & ORANGES FROM THE TREE

Before we left Graham went into our friends’ garden and picked a lemon and some oranges. The temperature in the sun was a pleasant 21C. So with the warmth and the sun shining, not a bad place to have ‘flu, we thought. Better than England in mid-November.

POMPEI – IF THEY STILL HAVE SPACE – DO NOT MISS THIS SPECIAL B&B:

B&B La Casa Di Plinio Via Stabiana 3, 80045 Pompei, Italy.

Home: 0818598960; Martina Mobile: 00393339453170; Salvatore Mobile: 00393934008187
e mail: info@lacasadiplinio.com

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

February 25, 2020

VILLELONGUE, AUDE- OUR FAVOURITE B&B

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Food markets Gourmet eating, Greeting friends

23^rd November 2016

OUR FAVOURITE B&B IN FRANCE – I CAUSE CONSTERNATION

Villelongue Coté Jardin, Location Chambre d’hôte dans l’Aude

This is our very favourite B&B in the whole of France (as we so far know it!)

It is the exceptional hospitality from the hostesses that has sent us back repeatedly to this charmingly restored ancient farmhouse. It adjoins the famous Abbaye Villelongue – though not anymore belonging to it.

Villelongue - Abbaye Villelongue — Abbaye Villelongue

WE COUNT ON A WARM WELCOME

Driving through that storm, we could not wait to get there. We eagerly anticipated the usual warm welcome. We little knew the shock we would cause.

A LONG TIME FROM MARCH TO NOVEMBER

In early March 2016 I definitely wrote an email to Claude asking her if it would be possible for us to stay for one night late in November. Would they still be open? I am pretty certain she wrote back to say arrangements could be made.

By November I was convinced in my own mind that I had followed this up at some point with the definite booking for November 23^rd. But March is a long way away from November. Even if I did… And Claude is very efficient; I imagine any booking I made would almost certainly have been entered into a register.

THE WORST STORM IN AUDE HISTORY?

We could hardly see out of the Golf’s streaming windscreen. Graham had to inch through the last miles of country lanes taking us to St Martin-le-Vieil, and then on to the Abbeye de Villelongue. We arrived outside the farmhouse about 7pm, and were instantly soaked through as we jumped out of our car.

It was our fourth stay with them in their historic house, but this time for only one night. (I must confess here that due to the ‘flu we had both forgotten to remind them in advance of this November arrival.

Villelongue - The Front Door — The Front Door

CLAUDE’S HAMMER-HORROR MOMENT

Wet branches swung out to lash us in the face, whilst thunder rumbled from the billowing grey/black clouds just discernible against the night sky. A sudden ‘CRACK’ and forked lightning threw the house into sudden relief. We staggered forward against the tearing wind…

And so it was that two wet and bedraggled visitors hammered on the front door, hoping that the sisters in their flat above would hear us. As great luck would have it Claude appeared with an armful of wood from the store at the back of the house.

She gasped when she saw us through the small pane of glass in the door (and who could blame her?) She was soon joined by Renée, who frowned: but the door was opened and

“What are you doing here?”

A SLIGHT DISPUTATION

You can imagine our relief when they beckoned us inside; from the expressions on their faces we had both feared they would turn us away.

In the downstairs hall I reminded them of the booking made in March. Claude denied all knowledge of it. I think that because we had corresponded as friends she had forgotten she’d answered ‘Yes, come – welcome’, or words to that effect. After all, it had been eight months ago!

They were clearly put out, having ‘closed down’ for the winter. They appeared to ignore our profuse apologies. I felt about five years old; I expected to be told to stand in the corner…

THE SISTERS QUICKLY ADAPT – I SHRINK…

Nevertheless they quickly adapted. They even insisted on coming out to help us with our bags, ignoring our insistence that it was not necessary, as we were only bringing in small knapsacks. I felt awful; a guilty small girl again – and I expect Graham felt the same…

NOT EXPECTED…

“We have not prepared food for you,” said Renee, her voice clipped. She ushered us into their comfortable sitting room (TV in here – a large one, which was promptly turned off). Their pretty cat came over to greet us – she seemed to remember us from former stays.

“Please don’t worry about food,” I said, remembering the sumptuous four-course feasts they usually provided. “We have little appetite –we’re recovering from ‘flu – but well past passing it on,” I explained hastily. “If it is at all possible, just a small bowl of soup each would be welcome – but please don’t go to any trouble.”

I felt pretty certain that such accomplished cooks would have some stock and leftovers or something which they could quickly rustle up into a soup. As it was we warmed up in front of a blazing log fire, and in about an hour two welcome bowls of gruel appeared. I wistfully hoped some bread would accompany it, but I guess they had none to spare. BUT- we were given the bedroom on the ground floor, which was a new delight for us (it has an especially lovely bathroom).

Villelongue - One of 4 Bedrooms — One of 4 Bedrooms

A HOUSE WITH A LONG HISTORY

This exceptionally good B &B is in the beautiful home of Claude Antoine and her sister Renée who go out of their way to ensure every comfort for their guests.

The house has a long history. Many centuries ago it was the living quarters of the monks in the adjoining famous abbey. Then – I do not know how far back, it became the farmhouse for the Villelongue estate and the home of the sisters’ family.

In World War 2 it was taken over by the Maquis – the French Resistance.

HARD WORK – GOOD TASTE – PERFECTION ACHIEVED

All I know is that when the sisters moved back in, the house was in a sorry state, with little or no furniture. Now, thanks to very hard work and shrewd buying at auctions etc. it is sympathetically restored, and full of lovely antique furniture. In every spacious room the beds are large and very comfortable, and there are armchairs and coffee tables. (No TV’s though, which does not worry us, as we don’t speak French. We are delighted to enjoy the elegant country lifestyle here instead.)

WE SHARE THE SISTERS’ BREAKFAST

In the morning we were invited to share their breakfast. It was more modest than in ‘the Season’; but still we enjoyed the same delicious crunchy bread. There was a small selection of local cheeses and their usual range of homemade jams. There was even some excellent dark orange marmalade; “brought from England by a guest”.

They had quite recovered from their shock and annoyance at us, but Claude shook Graham gently. She laughed, and said “Next time you come for more than one night. Yes?” So we know that before too long we will have to plan a holiday that takes us to the Midi-Pyrenees again. (Not such a hardship, really…)

(NOTE: And we did – we stayed FIVE nights with them in 2018 at their special rate.)

When I was handed the bill I saw that they had charged us a bit less than shown on the 2016 Bill of Fare in the bedroom – and nothing for our food. When I pointed this out they shushed me.

CLAUDE HAS A GIFT OF RARE WOOD FOR GRAHAM

Claude had emailed in March to say she had some exotic wood for Graham, which was when I had replied to request this booking.

Villelongue - Turned Apple made of Osage Orange — Turned Apple made of Osage Orange

CLAUDE AND GRAHAM FORAGE IN HER WOODSHED

While I dug out the Euros for Renee, Claude led Graham to her wood store and the log she had been saving for him. (There is generally a gift of interesting wood for my craftsman husband).

This time he had to somehow find room in our overcrowded car for a log of rare Osage Orange (Maclura Pomifera). She cut him a generous length.

ENOUGH RARE WOOD TO SHARE WITH COUSIN CLIVE

There was enough to pass some on to my cousin Clive to experiment with in his woodturning (he was thrilled when presented with it upon our return). Also, she insisted we take a small branch of boxwood. I was amazed that Graham managed to find room for it in the back of our car, already piled high with luggage, wine and presents).

They both came out to see us off. This time I ventured to hug them both closely.

THEY HAD NOT EXPECTED A HUG – BUT THEY GOT ONE JUST THE SAME

“You are true good friends,” I told them, when they at last laid down the backpacks they had carried for us. They both looked slightly startled. “You made Graham special soup last year when he was feeling poorly, and we stayed an extra day without notice. And now we descended on you without proper notice again, and you still made us welcome and went to some trouble for us. I call that true friendship.”

“Then as friends you will stay longer next time,” Renee said with mock-sternness.

CLAUDE AND RENEE WAVED US OFF…

I joined Graham in our extremely mud spattered car. The sisters waited by their gate until Graham had turned our car – then waved us off all the way to the corner in the lane…

And with that, off we went to explore Auch, presented as ‘The birthplace of D’Artagnan’, just as though the Fourth Musketeer had existed outside the pages of Alexander Dumas’ book!

This is still our favourite B&B in France. It especially appeals if you have a creative streak. The breakfasts and dinners they offer are exceptionally generous and delicious.

Don’t just take our word for it –

ALL the many reviews (in divers languages) of this B&B are five-star*****

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Feature image of Carcassonne with kind permission by Alain Bonnardeanx – unsplash.

Vivien in the middle of the Sassi, Matera

July 22, 2018

VIVIEN ALIGHTS FROM A BATTERED COACH – EAGER TO EXPLORE

Jackie Usher Friends joining us, Italian long stay Greeting friends

2^nd October.

VIVIEN TAKES A ROUND ABOUT ROUTE.

Vivien had already stayed a week in Napoli (Naples) to explore that town; also Pompeii and Herculaneum. We feel that Herculaneum gives a quicker, less tiring overview of domestic living in Roman times and Vivien agrees.

I have to point out that Pompeii shows more of the ‘Grandeur’ of Ancient Rome – but it is a vast site. I would still like to explore the side of Pompeii that was mostly closed in 2011 and is now open – but not sure if I can now manage all those cobbled streets.

Do both if you are keen, but allow two days to thoroughly explore Pompeii, however fit you are. (It can be very hot to walk around exposed to the sun and with little shade, even in October.)

Vivien decided that rather than come by train (about 1 hour) she would take the bus from Naples to Matera, which took four hours, as it stopped at many small towns and the route was via Bari. I do not know if Vivien was prepared for the age of most buses in Southern Italy, but she is a well-seasoned traveller and takes any discomfort in her stride.

A SMALL STREET MARKET

Vivien’s bus was due in around noon, so in the morning Graham and I went to find a street market on the outskirts of Matera. I was genuinely curious, wondering if Italian markets resembled the high quality of those we had found in France; I hoped to find cheeses and fruit from local farms.

It was not that sort of market, although I bought peaches – amazed at the huge bag that 6 euros bought. (When we got home all the peaches were bruised, so I cut them up and boiled them . Some went into a couscous I made, but I re-boiled the rest with sugar.)

This market was on a hill at the very edge of modern Matera and overlooked miles of country, including our ‘own’ Lake Giuliano. It was a tatterdemalion affair, such as you often find here in Britain; the crowded street a riot of colour from carpets, scarves, and jewellery winking in the sun; and, as usual, clothes. I was at last able to buy some American cloth for our kitchen table in a design that appealed, and that I could not find back in Britain (where so many patterns are just wrong for our 1900 farm-type kitchen).

SAVING NERO’S BACON

Also, it cost only 10 euros to replace my ruined, worn-once blouse, eaten by that wretched dog. Giuseppe said he had no name, so I called him Nero.

He is really a pretty young fellow, with a glossy black coat, despite never being groomed. He has never been trained, either, which is why he jumps at you, and bites – though he only made me bleed once. The poor creature is lonely, and starved for love. I would talk very quietly to him, and that seemed to calm him down, and he would come and lay his head in my lap. But he will never learn, I fear. We wonder how he is now, as Giuseppe planned to leave all the animals throughout the winter to ‘go down to the farm below’ on their own – he wanted them to become ‘working’ animals. In other words, he wanted feral cats – and the dogs to become guard dogs. BUT: I have to remind myself that Giuseppe is trying to ‘bring-back’ the farm, long neglected, and that even in animal-loving England our farmers keep ‘working dogs’ and dogs to guard the stock, and few of these ever enter the house.

VIVIEN’S IMPATIENT – FOR THE SASSI

Though a bit travel-weary when she at last climbed down from the somewhat vintage coach, Vivien was avid to see the Sassi – she even declined the offer of coffee or a cold drink. We took her to the squares at the top, where she could easily look down on the entire ruined city – now fast being cleaned up and restored… Of course, she could not wait to find an entrance and explore further – who would not? Matera Sassi district is one of the wonders of the world…

It is always a pleasure to introduce people to places you like and know a bit about, however sketchy; and we felt satisfaction when upon first peering through the three arches in a smart piazza at the top of the old town, Vivien’s eyes sharpened with keen interest.

“I can’t wait to get down there,” she said, and so we set off to explore, descending steps and ramps until we reached some ancient cisterns. It was at that point that I remembered that she who walks down must walk up again, so I left the other two to explore further and made my leisurely way back up. Once in the principal piazza I took a look around the Duomo. This white cathedral had a glass inset in the floor, through which you could view the very much older crypt church beneath. All of Matera is built ‘literally standing on top of one another’, but when it comes to truly ancient churches there is a special enchantment.

NOWHERE LIKE ITALY FOR ICE CREAM

Deciding it must be high time to return to the larger piazza where they hoped to emerge, I took myself off to one of the best Gelaterias in Italy – and that is a tall order.

There was always a queue worthy of any in Britain outside the modest frontage of Il Vizi degli Angeli Laboratorio di Gelateria Artisanale. While waiting in line I studied the board to pick a flavour new to me – not a difficult task, as the list was long. I remembered trying fig, having never come across this blissful tongue-tickler in England.

EVER TASTED FIG ICE CREAM?

Oh, what bliss! I’m not especially partial to figs, especially the ‘fresh’ ones found in British supermarkets; and I can take or leave those sticky dried ones you buy in little boxes for Christmas. But in ice cream! Spotting Graham and Vivien coming across I persuaded them to try it, too (of course, they insisted on cautiously taking a lick each of mine first – and I did not get ‘licks’ back when they triumphantly brandished their overflowing cones, just as I was dumping the last of my dripping cornet in the rubbish bin.) We spent the next half hour or so ‘people watching’ and wandering the lanes of interesting and chic little shops; carefully hurrying past a certain little ceramic studio.

3^rd October:

INTRODUCTIONS

Giuseppe had yet to meet Vivien. She was still in bed at about nine o’clock when I woke her up asking if she’d like a cup of tea. I don’t think she was overjoyed. We tend to wake up so early these days, and Graham would put the alarm on for 6am in order to write.

I stayed in bed until 7, but it seemed much later, so after washing some clothes and myself I did my unwelcome hostess act. No wonder she was tired – she had just done four days hard walking around hot and sweaty Naples, and day trips to both Pompeii and Herculaneum.

I can’t help thinking that the 4.5 hr coach ride yesterday must have been bumpy and hot, too.

GRAHAM – GOURMET DISH for GARDEN CRITTERS

Vivien was very welcome, not least because she brought a much more effective remedy than ours to tackle all those mosquito bites. These pests seem to smell Graham from miles off: (‘Hee, hey, ho hum – I smell the blood of an Englishman’) and zoom in for the feast. My poor husband is covered in angry red bumps, which itch and burn like mad. At home it is I who attract the insects – perhaps, like all Italian men, they treat foreign women with courtesy?

An old pergola supporting an old rare grape vine

This tube of stuff came in very handy when Graham took her to explore the villa’s lush garden, exuberant with greenery forever encroaching upon the lawns. The creation many years ago, mainly of Giuseppe’s father and late grandfather, it was now an enchanting jungle where the odd statue, marble table, or broken fountain hid amongst the profusion of palms, vines, pomegranate trees and every sort of shrub, both northern European and exotic – many that you only see at home as pot plants (often houseplants, and very small.) Vivien endeared herself to Giuseppe, and even more his father Mimi, by her keen interest in, and appreciation of the abundance in this ‘almost forest’ as Giuseppe called it. Whenever Mimi arrived, they made great efforts at bringing it back to its original, formal glory; but we Brits just loved to dive into the lush greenness.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.