Day trip

IN SEARCH OF TROGLODYTES - The courtyard of Les Caves de la Genevraie

August 8, 2021

LUNCH IN A TROGLODYTE CAVE

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Food Day trip

SAUMUR

Leaving Saumur chateau we arrived at the bottom of the town, searching for a shady place by the water. It was just too hot to go up and down streets. We drove on for a couple of miles, and even crossed over a bridge, but there seemed to be no access to the water meadows. We just did not know what we were doing….

“Let’s go and look for one of those troglodyte villages,” I suggested.

“They’ll be just like Matera.”

“You don’t know that. They don’t look the same in that leaflet.”

I hurriedly searched the car for it – but in vain. Suddenly a road sign appeared with the required brown slots. We drove a couple of miles only to find two places closed.

– AND LUNCH

“If we don’t look for lunch now, we won’t get any,” said Graham. “You know what it’s like on a Sunday in France. They don’t ‘do’ Sunday Lunch.”

WE FIND A LOVELY GARDEN RESTAURANT

Fortunately, we shortly passed a large garden with gazebos sheltering dining tables. It seemed to be well patronised, so we turned round and Graham assembled my scooter, and while he looked to park our car I whizzed along and found a nice small table in the shade.

– BUT WE ARE TURNED AWAY

A formally dressed waiter approached. “We have no tables free,” he said.

“But this one – and those –“

“We are fully booked.” He was rather abrupt.

By now Graham had caught up with me. He asked if there were anywhere else nearby where we might get lunch.

“There is a place 2 kilometres that way”. His tone was dismissive. “They sell sandwiches,” he added witheringly.

By now some more people were drifting in, including a young girl elaborately dressed in white. As we turned away we guessed this must be a confirmation celebration. We appreciated that this large mass meal needed precision. But need that waiter have been so graceless? We decided that, reluctantly, we’d better find this ‘sandwich’ place.

LUNCH IN TROGLODYTE CAVE - Inside the restaurant — Inside the restaurant

TWO BIRDS WITH ONE STONE:

We’re glad we did! As we descended a winding path and joined a small queue to enter a very narrow doorway we were met by a charming waitress who explained that this was a ‘restaurant in a troglodyte cave’ and that the food was historically accurate to the region, and sourced locally. Yes, it was served in sandwich form, because that was the tradition.

STONE AGE SANDWICHES – DELICIOUSLY DIFFERENT

WE were guided through candle-lit packed tables set into all the nooks and crannies of a winding cave complex – entirely natural. ‘Torches’, and stone-shielded lights were set into the walls seemingly randomly. It was all very cleverly contrived. We were seated close to a small coal fire; but there was an equally small window open nearby.

“It may be hot outside,” said Graham, “but I expect they need a bit of heating in here. The temperature will be constant.”

THE FOOD WAS CHARMINGLY RUSTIC

Waitresses came round with long, linen-covered baskets of hot flattish rolls. They showed us how to split them in order to make our ‘sandwiches’. The focaccia ‘cobs’ were of rough stone-ground flour. They were both light and deliciously tasty.
Bowls appeared; smallish ones. There was a very smooth pork pate in one; creamed mushrooms in another. A third held ‘rillauds’, which turned out to be made from a puree of navy beans – surprisingly tasty. There was a large bowl of very fresh salad, and then, to our surprise – a small casserole each.

LUNCH IN TROGLODYTE CAVE - Breaking Bread — Breaking Bread

NO FRENCH TABLE COMPLETE WITHOUT WINE AND WATER

A bottle of local red wine was placed next to a carafe of iced water.

WE WOLFED DOWN A SURPRISING NUMBER OF ‘STONE-AGE SANDWICHES’

Washed down with the wine, and accompanied by the salad, we found we were enjoying our lunch of a surprising number of ‘sandwiches’; for the baskets of bread kept circulating.

FESTIVE CAVE – JOLLY FAMILY PARTIES

There was such a festive air in the cave; several family parties enjoying the novelty of it all. There was a dessert, but I cannot remember what it was. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience, and emerged into dazzling sunlight.

LUNCH IN TROGLODYTE CAVE - Parties dining — Parties dining

I MAKE A DISCOVERY

IN SEARCH OF TROGLODYTES - A Narrow passageway in Les Caves de la Genevraie — A Narrow passageway in Les Caves de la Genevraie

As usual, my first priority was to find a toilet. While Graham was eagerly photographing, I went through a small wicket gate, thinking it a likely move.

It did not lead to my Shangri La, but instead I found myself in a large, natural cave with offshoots and little stairways. It was evidently used for storage. This haven was entirely natural, and very beautiful and intriguing. I called Graham to look, but he said that first he must help me up the many steps to the facility I needed, right at the top of the grotto in which we found ourselves.
Duty done, we went down again and both more thoroughly poked around in the restaurant’s hidden storage facility – an utterly unspoilt cave that must have been in use for many centuries. I thought how I would have adored being there when I was a child. Most probably I would have driven my parents frantic, for I would surely have ‘got lost’ again in climbing that intriguing narrow stairway that disappeared round a bulging outcrop.

“I don’t think we need go searching for any more troglodyte dwellings, do you?” I asked, thinking we had stumbled upon a fair sample.

Somehow we were in ignorance that for about 9 euros we could have taken a tour of a complete Troglodyte village (about 4 houses, I have learned.) It finishes with a ‘train’ ride. This sounds as especially appealing and useful knowledge for kids.

Les Caves de la Genevraie,13 rue du musée, 49700 Louresse Rochemenier. Phone: +33(0)2 41 59 34 22

(It seems very unlikely that we will ever return to do this, but now YOU know how to find out if you and your family can.

Graham agreed with me. “No. This gives a good idea. Time to go back to Thouars and check out the Resistance Museum.”

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

SEGESTA – UNTOUCHED BY TIME - From the far hillside

August 19, 2019

SEGESTA – GENTLY TOUCHED BY TIME

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Day trips, Local History, Travel Day trip, UNESCO World Heritage Site

9^thNovember 2016:

SEGESTA – MAJESTIC BEAUTY GENTLY TOUCHED BY TIME

While in Carini we went to many places: The star for us was SEGESTA.

I discovered SEGESTA while still at home, on one of my trollings through the Internet. It is a lonely temple that appears complete – unlike most of the number that cluster in and around Valle di Templi, further down the West side of the island, where all the tourist groups go.

I did not tell Graham of my find but noted it in my little book of ‘Things To See’.

SEGESTA – MY LITTLE SECRET

Now we were staying a forty-five minute drive away. I told Graham I would like to start the day driving along the E90 towards Trapani, an attractive seaside town. (We had pretty well ignored coasts in Italy. We did once try the famous Amalfi Coast, but concluded that it is always so choked with traffic you would see more if you took a coach trip along it.)

My husband was a bit mystified that we were taking the lower road. When I told him to turn onto the E933, which took us away from Trapani, he was even more so. But I had a good idea of what would meet our eyes.

SEGESTA – UNTOUCHED BY TIME - Closer up — Closer up

SEGESTA – UNTOUCHED BY TIME - Closer still — Closer still

SEGESTA – A GLEAM OF COLOUR

Before long the narrow road climbed a fairly steep hill on our right-hand side. Clumps of trees adorned it. Suddenly there was a gleam of colour appearing from a small spinney near the top.

It almost hid the less visited, but most spectacular ancient Greek temple. (Actually, it isn’t Greek – as we learned when we visited the centre. It was built probably in the 420’s BC. The Doric style suggests it was the work of an Athenian architect living in the area, in order to impress the Athenians, when an earlier civilisation – the Alymians – sought their aid.

And maybe that explains why we never learned of a dedication – to Athena, or any other god or goddess. Even so – it was a breathtaking sight.

We saw it first from the road. Suddenly, there it was! Graham was so thunderstruck by the sight that just for a second, he stopped our car on that lonely road. (See the feature image)

SEGESTA – UNTOUCHED BY TIME - how immense — How immense

SEGESTA TEMPLE – GASPINGLY IMPRESSIVE STILL

It stood shining out at us in its entirety, all alone on a wooded hill. Its apricot-coloured stone gleamed in the sun. It is a totally untouched, complete survivor. It is majestic.

Later, as we walked up to it, we appreciated its vastness. What an impressive work of art from 2,500 years ago…

SEGESTA – UNTOUCHED BY TIME - Time eaten Stone of Segesta — Time eaten Stone of Segesta

JUST ONE REGRET

Our only regret later was that we had not on the way taken in a famous 12^th century cathedral or church near Palermo. A visit that could easily have been made that day:

Monreale.

This Duomo boasts of containing the heart of St Louis (patron saint of France, (King Louis 9^th, born 1214). It also (we learned later) has in the apse a mosaic icon of an even earlier saint – St Thomas a Becket of England. It is said to be the earliest holy image of him.

Monreale had been on my list. The city itself is said to be very beautiful, and overlooking Palermo. Regrettably, there simply wasn’t time to go to all the ‘special’ places that Sicilia offers.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Feature image

April 18, 2019

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S ‘SOUL’ OF ITALY.

Jackie Usher Food, Food markets, Getting to know the locals, Italian Towns, Local History, Tourist Town Day trip, food, UNESCO World Heritage Site

Wednesday, November 2^nd:

ALIANO – OUR LAST DAY OF EXPLORING BASILICATA

“If we don’t go today, we’ll never see the little town where Carlo Levi was imprisoned,” I told Graham. “I’ve got to do our packing tomorrow – and there’s quite a lot. We’ve spread ourselves over seven weeks. Apart from clothes there’s that thin duvet we brought which has proved so useful, and things like our chest cooler – never really used, but full of veg and bread; and…”

“O.k., oKAY,” he said. “Don’t go on. I thought you couldn’t find Gagliano.”

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S GAGLIANO DISCOVERED

“I told you. He made up the name Gagliano – I discovered that three weeks ago. It’s really called Aliano – and it’s not far. See? And we can call in again at Ferrandina on the way back. You said you wanted to take more photos there. And Pisticci – which Giuseppe said we should visit.”

Thus it was that our last day trip in Basilicata proved to be one of the very best of our many lovely memories of this unique part of Italy.

ALIANO – CARLO LEVI’S LANDSCAPE: (The feature image at the top of this post was taken from Aliano)

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Centre of Aliano — Centre of Aliano

Sure enough, as we approached the town – less than an hour’s drive away from our base, the landscaped changed. Flattish ‘khaki’ farmland gave way to the bare, grey-white clay hills described and painted by Carlo Levi. We took the winding, narrow road up to the town. We had to park right at the beginning, until we saw a sign that said invalid parking was allowed further in. This was just as well, because we drove quite a way down the main street before we found the Blue Badge Car Park. Even then a quite long walk awaited us.

We had got as far as some railings overlooking a ravine, where men who clearly looked like locals were eating great slices of pizza they had bought at a littlel shop opposite. We were about to go in when I noticed a tiny baker’s shop almost next door.

ALIANO HAS A TRADITIONAL BAKERY

“Just look at those loaves, Graham – and the lovely rolls. They’re almost like our French dinner rolls at home. I’ve never seen them before in Italy.”

So we went into the shop, which was really the bakery. A very small, very old man was bringing loaves out of a brick oven. He used a long shaft (12 feet?) with a paddle at the end, which he manoeuvred carefully under each loaf.

His wife stood behind the modest, L-shaped wooden counter that fronted the place. She smiled and wished us ‘Buongiorno.’ I pointed at a small loaf on the shelf behind her, but was interrupted.

ALIANO – ‘THE SOUL OF ITALY’ IN A BREAD ROLL

I’d hardly noticed a pretty young girl squashed behind Graham until she confronted us and asked,

“Americano?”

“No. Inglese.”

“Aah. You will like Italian bread, then. Inglese know good bread.”

“Some do – a lot just buy wrapped from supermarkets. Silly things.”

“This VERY good bread. I come from Bari whenever I can. This town is SOUL of ITALY!” She threw up her arms. “And this bread the SOUL of the Soul of Italy! Best bread; you taste. Here!”

ALIANO – WE EAT ‘THE SOUL OF ITALY’

And she lifted up the little counter and dived through to a table at the back, bringing out a small bread roll. This she broke open. She then reached across the amused, ageing proprietress and picked up an olive oil dispenser. She doused each side of the little roll, then put her hands into a small pot and sprinkled some finely chopped fresh basil on each half, bit into one and threw up her hands – “Divine!” She then thrust the other half at us.

“The taste of Italy! Eat the SOUL of Italy!”

So we did –

The proprietress beyond the counter grinned at me and spread her hands in that ‘Waddayado’ gesture seen a thousand times in Hollywood films featuring Italian actors.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - Clay columns — Clay columns

ALIANO – NO ESCAPE FOR CARLO

After buying our loaf, and receiving hugs and kisses on both cheeks from all present, we made our way to the railings again. Looking over, we saw sharp peaks of that white clay, too perilous to descend by. And there was nothing else – for miles. No wonder that Carlo Levi did not need to be kept confined, for where would there have been to escape to? In those days (1936-1945) there was little traffic, and only the one road down. The extreme other end of the village held only the bleak graveyard, set on a high promontory. And all the surrounding area was well nigh empty – and very poor.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - The piazza — The piazza

ALIANO FRUSTRATION – LEVI MUSEUM CLOSED – BUT STILL WONDROUS

We followed the railings, passing a really exquisite little square. This held the old town hall, and some attractive houses. Not least was ‘The House of the Hundred Eyes’, so called because of its many windows.

Aliano - Carlo Levie's Soul of Italy - House with a hundred eyes — House with a hundred eyes

Unfortunately, the museum was closed, and so we could not get a guide to take us to view Levi’s lodgings at the time of his ‘imprisonment’. Also closed was the house he later had built. Strangely, he decided to return to this place of ‘exile’. He had made so many friends – and no wonder – he had used his doctor’s skills to treat the poor for no payment.

BUT DID WE SEE THE VIEWS CARLO LEVI HAD SEEN?

But we did see them from the outside. The house where he stayed was substantial and attractive. His own, later dwelling was right on the edge of the escarpment. He would have looked right over a sea of the white clay peaks, caused by too much forest clearance in the past. We wondered if he had lived to see the later changes in the more distant landscape, when topsoil was brought in and fields planted on the plains.

NO WONDER CARLO LEVI DID NOT ATTEMPT ESCAPE

Carrying on down the long main street we came to a bust depicting this great man and benefactor. Just below it were steps to a viewing platform to see to the bottom of the deep gorge. Graham went down, but I stayed up top. I watched people coming away from the ‘castle’ – too late for us. A bell tolled ‘Closing Time’.

DID HIS ‘PRISON’ LOOK AS ATTRACTIVE THEN?

Aliano today is a very clean, bright and pretty town. I can’t help thinking that it must have looked very different to Carlo Levi. That writing, painting, Jewish doctor-activist put it and ‘Lucania’ as Basilicata was known, ‘on the map’. He wrote about his captivity there, and the poverty of the whole region, and most of all – the wretched conditions of those starving souls living in the Sassi of Matera. It was through his book ‘Christ stopped at Eboli’ that new homes were built for the 16,000 odd inhabitants turned out of their wretched cave-dwellings. They were offered the alternative option of passage to America and Australia.

Some, like our friend Vincenzo, came to Britain.

Aliano - Carlo Levi's 'Soul of Italy' - View — Carlo Levi’s ‘Soul of Italy’

LOST IN THE TUNNEL – WE MISSED THE CITTA ANTICA

PISTICCI.

We took a different route back, visiting again (very briefly) Ferrandina. This road first took us through Pisticci. Giuseppe had told us that this town should be on our list. So we were bemused when after entering by a very long tunnel cut through the mountain, we finally ascended to a rather boring, characterless modern street of little shops. We did pass a statue in a small piazza. It did not seem that Pisticci was that special after all. We were just as bewildered as the staring local inhabitants were by us. Clearly, they were not used to foreigners in left-hand drive cars.

The road looped down, and we exited through the same tunnel by which we had entered. We were glad to stop once more in Ferrandina. Later, studying the map carefully, I realised that we had been in Pisticci SCALO – we think it must mean ‘New Town’ and had by-passed the ancient hilltop town, which probably saw numerous tourist coaches.

ALIANO – LAST DISCOVERY IN BASILICATA

It was with sadness that we returned to base that evening. Our stay in Basilicata was at an end. We had grown to love the region – and that love is with us still. The next day (3^rd November) would be taken up with packing and checking the car over for our next long leg – down to the ferry, and then exploring Sicilia (Sicily).

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

May 15, 2018

METAPONTO

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Restaurants Day trip

AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL VILLAGE

24^th September:

A TREAT FOR EYES

The next day was hot, so what better treat for Lolly than to take her to the sea. On the way, we tasted a bit of culture first. Metaponto is a major archaeological site next to the coast, with remains of about six ancient Greek temples in a field.

Metaponto-archeological-site that's a treat — Metaponto archeological site

In another sixteen huge columns still stand, the remainders of a temple to Hera. (see the feature photo above) The museum itself is modern, beautiful, and with the best collection of ancient Greek vases and artefacts in Italy, and arguably the world (excepting possibly Athens). Museo Archeologico Nazionale METAPONTO

Metaponto-Museum-A cultural treat — Metaponto Museum-image from their website

A TREAT FOR TUMMIES

It also has nearby a very nice little restaurant, the Trattoria Barchetta. Looking a little like an hotel bar with a courtyard, it sells sophisticated food, beautifully served at a very reasonable price. The seafood is to die for. Up the road at Marina di Ginosa we found a seafront with an excellent beach.

Metaponto-Lucarelli di Mastrorocco Gelateria-Masters of the treat — Lucarelli di Mastrorocco Gelateria – image from their facebook page

TREAT FOR LOLLY

Lolly was thrilled – she rarely gets to see an ‘Ocean’ these days. Baton Rouge, (her home since Hurricane Katrina drove her from New Orleans) is quite far inland – the States are so vast…

MUCKING ABOUT IN THE SURF…

We picked our way down to the sea, using the wooden ‘path’ laid over the sands. (Lolly kicked off her sandals, but because it was so hot she soon put them on again). We had not come prepared, so had to content ourselves with a paddle and splashing match. It was fun, though, and refreshing.

A TREAT – FIG ICE CREAM

Back in the High Street we spotted an Artisan Gelato selling great ice creams. I persuaded Lolly to try the FRESH FIG ICE CREAM, unheard of (so far) in Britain; a most heavenly flavour. It’s easy to find the Lucarelli di Mastrorocco Gelateria. Rested and refreshed, we then again paddled kidlike in the sea before returning to base.

Beach-at-dusk-near-Metaponto- a refreshing treat in the heat — Beach at dusk near Metaponto

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

April 3, 2018

HERCULANEUM

Jackie Usher Ancient sites Day trip, Herculaneum

EARLY START for the ANCIENT SITES in SOUTHERN ITALY

21^st September:

For her first trip we took Lolly to visit the second most famous of the ancient sites in Southern Italy – Herculaneum. It was a very scenic journey both ways. We were most impressed by a thin ‘fan’ of sharp rocks high up on top of a mountain. We recognised it from ‘Google Images’ and knew that sheltering behind them was a tiny mountain village. We promised ourselves a trip to find it at a later date.

Herculaneum-10-Mountain and the way to Pompeii — This mountain (close to Eboli) was the last we passed before skirting Salerno and on to Pompeii

LOLLY ENJOYS A WARM ITALIAN WELCOME

During the morning we stopped off to have coffee with our ‘family’ in Pompeii, which was on our way. La Casa di Plinio is now rated ‘No.1 place to stay’ on Trip Advisor; and that must principally be not just for the cleanliness of the pretty, well-appointed rooms and the excellent Continental breakfasts, but because the whole family treat all guests like one of their own:
info@La Casa di Plinio.com.

Lolly was instantly charmed by their courtyard, newly paved in a swirling pattern of small, square tiles, and pretty with tubs of flowers and dishes of succulents. She was bowled over by the welcome from the entire family, who all left their places of work – Martina her office, and the cleaning and sprucing up of the ‘lets’; Salvatore his training as a motorcycle guide of the area, and their mother, Antonella, who had left her own home to come and hug and kiss us, however briefly. And then another motorbike drew up outside, and in rushed Vincenzo, Martina’s partner, to enfold me in a bear hug. Whenever I see him Vincenzo radiates good cheer, with his flashing white grin.

Indeed, when we were back in the car Lolly (who comes from America, land of the Hollywood smiles) actually commented ‘All the Italians I’ve seen seem to have absolutely perfect white teeth.’ I said ‘I expect that’s because they eat such good, clean food.’

She had also enjoyed the cappuccino they made especially for her: Italians only drink it at breakfast time. Now it was not such a long drive to Ercolano – the modern town above the ancient site of Herculaneum.

Herculaneum-8-Jackie getting enthusiastic-Vesuvius in the background — The modern city of Ercolano merges as a back drop to this Ancient site – Jackie points down to the old harbour

OUR FIRST SIGHT – THE LAST REFUGE – SKELETONS

Herculaneum-9-looking down into the old harbour — In the deep shadows tourists can be seen looking into the caves where the skeletons were found

We had to approach the site down a long, sloping tunnel and were intrigued upon emerging to find ourselves on a bridge looking across at blocks of flats built above a sort of ditch, which was once where the sea lapped at the base of a cliff. Further along were the boathouses, still filled with the agonised skeletons of the families who had run there for shelter.

ROMAN SHOPS – BLOCKS OF FLATS AND INTACT HOUSES

Nearly all the houses, large and small, are quite preserved; tiles still on roofs, woodwork in many places intact, though charred. You see charming indoor balconies, and courtyards with stone seats and fountain bases.

Herculaneum-2-Herculaneum-modern Ercolano towering beyond — Above ancient Herculaneum sits the modern town of Ercolano, with Vesuvius beyond

You cannot help being aware that there is far more stretching beneath the modern town of Ercolano, which is built far above, right up to the edge of the square pit containing the streets of ancient buildings.

We knew from experience that Herculaneum is smaller and far less taxing to explore than Pompeii, though I have to point out that Pompeii shows more of the ‘Grandeur’ of Ancient Rome – but it is a vast site. I would still like to visit the side of Pompeii that was mostly closed in 2011 and is now open – but not sure if I can now manage all those cobbled streets. Do both if you are keen, but allow two days to thoroughly explore Pompeii, however fit you are. (It can be very hot to walk around exposed to the sun and with little shade, even in October. Take bottles of water.)

Herculaneum-3-Lolly and Jackie — Lolly and Jackie peering into what had been a shop

Herculaneum was the main holiday resort for the Romans who spent their everyday lives in the larger city of Pompeii, with its imposing official buildings. The rows of smaller houses and flats in Herculaneum give a better idea of everyday domestic living, which was in some cases quite imposing. Like towns today, it had its ‘posh’ end, where you still walk into houses with hand painted frescoes on the walls and ceilings of large rooms, and containing their own hot baths.

Herculaneum-4-Lolly and Jackie — A couple of culture vultures

Herculaneum is closer to Vesuvius, and so was buried in hot ash, which turned the wood into charcoal and left the skeletons of the inhabitants intact. The entire town was buried under 30 metres of volcanic ash, with the result that because of the mainly dry climate many of the shops can be recognised by the remains of their goods. Blackened loaves encourage you to look at the unusual free-standing ovens in the bakers’ shops; the marble counters and deep-sunk vats make it easy to fill the wine-houses with men, noisy at their games of chance; and the brothel announces itself with colourful frescoes.

Herculaneum-5-Mosaic plaque — One of the many mosaic plaques

Herculaneum-6-Preserved plasterwork on an arch — Plaster-work still sticking to an arch

Herculaneum-7-Mosaic and painted Plaque — This plaque has painted areas

LOLLY IS ATTRACTED TO FRIDGE MAGNETS

Lolly was really impressed by Herculaneum, where despite my entreaties, she later let herself be conned by a stallholder into paying 5 euros each for three fridge magnets which were clearly marked 2 euros in the museum shop. (It’s not my business, but it hurts me – maybe I’m stingy, but my lovely, open-handed friend is not rich.)

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.