NEMOURS TO BOURGES – SCENIC ROUTE
DAY 3: 5th September
1st STOP ON SCENIC ROUTE to BOURGES – ORLEANS
After finding some breakfast we really started our tour, taking the scenic route from Nemours to Orleans – then Bourges. Some low hills appeared, and we took an ‘A’ road through a few pretty towns. One had a picturesque abbey by a river. Children were bathing in the shallows beneath the bridge. We went through some attractive villages before stopping for coffee at Orleans – a truly beautiful city.
Apart from some romantic medieval lanes it was spacious, and paved almost entirely in white or cream stone tiles – even some of the roadways. The large central ‘place’ was dominated by an enormous statue of Joan of Arc in full armour; her warhorse pawing the ground. Magnificent!
BANNERS OF JOAN’S KNIGHTS LEAD YOU TO THE CATHEDRAL
The wide avenue leading to the cathedral had a large banner of one of Joan’s knights hanging from each upstairs window. So – a colourful display before we reached the large circle with the cathedral in it’s centre. Orleans boasts a very clean and pretty cathedral, with sort of open stone ‘lanterns’ flanking the central spire.
In the Cathedral.
Orleans Cathedral contains some truly exquisite old window glass.
Inside were two new ‘Rose’ windows on each side aisle. One had wonderful, truly golden intricate designs. The other was a melange of old shards. Both cast their colours onto the flagged stone floor of the aisle.
All around the nave were large, probably late Victorian windows depicting Joan’s life. A progression from humble shepherdess to crowning the Dauphin. The last, rather shocking window depicts France’s heroine stoic amid the flames. All around her British soldiers grin like snarling dogs. This, to a Brit, is very unfair, since a French friend has told us that it was a French bishop who handed her over to the Brits, and he ordered the burning alive.
THE COFFEE SHOPS OF ORLEANS – TOO MANY CUPS?
Dame Nature sent me scurrying into various coffee shops – one extremely grand; the ‘Ladies’ was worth a trip all to itself. Graham was a bit miffed about the cost of the espresso coffee, though – his third that morning, because of my needs. We explored a bit more and admired the very old timbered houses, taller than in England, with steeper sloping roofs and their often criss-cross exposed beams painted in bright colours. Then we passed over the impressive medieval bridge on our way to Bourges.
Do visit Orleans if you can – it is very rewarding
LA FERTE ST-AUBIN
SCENIC ROUTE TO BOURGES: Charming Chateau – Blissful Bistro
As we left there was a noticeable rise in temperature. Enjoying the sight of several chateaux, some old farms, and rivers bordered by trees, we made our way leisurely along the country road towards our next night’s stop. Presently, we came to Le-Ferte-St Aubin, a very small village. Standing back from our road was its really charming chateau. It was bordered by two straight channels of water decorated with ducks and gliding swans.
Nearby was a small bistro with people eating and drinking on the veranda. We decided to scoot along there, as it was nearly two o’clock.
A mouth-watering aroma assailed our nostrils as we approached:
The board offered a choice of three starters, three mains and three desserts; also cheeses. One of the diners started chatting. His English was good, and after urging us to check out the chateau he insisted fervently ‘Order the chicken – it is VERY good’. And so it was – one of our ‘memorable’ meals.
Au Bistro Gourmand in Le-Ferte-St-Aubin– both bistro and village were small but special.
Afterwards, Graham took numerous pictures of the grand house – also named Le-Ferte-St Aubin, before pressing on.
VIERZON – A REMARKABLE BRIDGE-TOLLHOUSE
Being on the scenic route we did, however, pause in Vierzon (very picturesque by the river, with an exceptionally tall, thin, half-timbered house at one end of the bridge.) We stopped for a drink of citron presse and a walk round the lovely old town, despite the heat (about 35C even at 5pm) Remarkably, the sun had finally shown itself.
My biggest mistake; Booking an ‘F1’ outside Bourges.
I GUESS ‘YOU GETS WHAT YOU PAYS FOR’
This ‘hotel’ was certainly cheap. €29 bought us a tiny cubicle. However, I declined to shower in a stall used by about 400 truckers (our genial fellow guests, it appeared.) There was one lav and one shower per floor of about fifty rabbit-hutches. (Sorry, Graham says there was another lav tucked around under the stairs). The plastic-covered bed was lumpy and there were comings and goings all night. It was so hot we had to prop our door open, like every other ‘guest’. Many passed, giggling, returning from their night out. In comparison, the Kyriad at Coquelles, near Calais (of which more later), was terrific value despite somewhat rude staff.
DELIGHTS IN BOURGES
Heaven & Hell.
However, a quick trip that evening into Bourges itself was rewarding, especially the main doorway to the Cathedral in the picturesque ‘town historique’. It had a bas-relief of heaven and hell above the ancient, heavy wooden doors. Hell looked much more fun than heaven, which had saintly figures in faintly-coloured robes just standing about, whereas the inhabitants of hell were all naked and writhing…
There was an absolutely gorgeous garden at the back (see feature image). Though small, it had many statues. It was full of very bright flowers in plantings that were definitely un-British. Instead, we appreciated a French sense of design and unusual colour combinations that worked.
I walked between the beds sniffing the roses, but my sense of smell is diminishing these days. Regrettable, but not so bad as hobbling around in pain.
BOURGES’ EXCELLENT MUNICIPAL CAFE.
We were able to admire this haven while slaking our thirsts in comfort at the outdoor Municipal café (which mercifully provided toilets). The weather was very, very hot even in the evening – about 35C as I recall (95Faranheit).
BOURGES – HUMBLE MEAL – EXCEPTIONALLY GOOD SERVICE
Not very hungry, but quite tired, we decided not to look for a nice restaurant, but instead hurry back and get a snack at one of the ‘Industrial Park’ chains close to F1. After dispiritedly studying the bills of fare we ended up in a pizza-cum-sandwich bar called Patapain. Despite winding down in order to close in 20 minutes the staff obligingly heated us a pizza and said we could eat it there. They did not hurry us. We ended up buying some very healthy-looking pastries to take out. They were stacking chairs by now but were unfailingly pleasant and polite. I gave them a good review on Trip Advisor. Good service should always be acknowledged.
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
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