NARBONNE
NARBONNE – SMALL CITY – LARGE IN FRENCH WIT
As we resumed our journey the sky darkened and presently we were in the midst of a storm. It slowed the driving, but diminished when we reached Narbonne. The town was on my list of places to stop and explore. We were both a bit tired, and so we went into the town and parked up by an ancient church, which had been turned into an art gallery. The girl on the desk was most unhelpful about letting me use their toilet, and so Graham and I hurried along to where we could see a tall tower, which must mark the centre.
BUT FIRST – A PROPER CUPPA
Presently we found ourselves beside a broad canal, and we followed it to the first café that presented itself. Miraculously, they served properly made English tea (the cuppa, that is). What a treat! We sank down onto a pavement chair and watched the comings and goings.
NARBONNE – PAST GLORIES – THE BELLE EPOQUE
We were admiring the building opposite; a rather baroque, large square place of several storeys. Carved in relief all along the top was information that this was an Emporium for Ladies A La Mode (as far as we could make out the French). Not any more. It looked largely empty, with several shabby little shops created out of the grand ground floor entrances. (We later realised that we were facing one of the sides of this once-imposing building).
NARBONNE HAS MANY FANCY LITTLE SHOPS
When we left we turned into a sort of passage behind the main street. It was full of intriguing little shops, and led out into another, much larger square. It had a sort of oblong trough in the centre, full of water. Perhaps the base for another fountain?
In front of that was the still attractive main frontage of what is now known as the ‘Monoprix Building’. Easy to locate, but such a comedown from its past grandeur.
WE LOVE HOW THE FRENCH DECORATE THEIR STREETS
Before us was that previously glimpsed tall tower. It was already decorated for Christmas. Like a giant gift parcel, it was tied up in broad red ribbon, with a neat bow in the centre.
‘Typical French wit,’ chuckled Graham appreciatively. We love French wit, which shows everywhere; in window displays and much street art. Even, as here, on buildings themselves.
This tower is part of what remains of the old castle. Attached buildings are beautiful, even in Civic use. (English Councils, take note!)
A BEAUTIFUL FOUNTAIN – ON NARBONNE HOTEL DE VILLE (town hall)
Still part of the castle complex, the town hall façade had been cleaned to show the attractive pinkish stone. Next to this beautiful fountain was a medieval, carved doorway. We walked in, admiring the tessellated floor, and the statues and other features in the round (or octagonal?) hall or atrium. Various offices led off, so we walked on. Through another arched doorway we found ourselves in a small, enclosed courtyard, with yet another eye-catching floor.
NARBONNE – PALAIS DE ARCHEVEQUES
Had we more time, and the ability to read French, we would have loved to spend time looking at the town’s archives. Various illustrated displays showed a bronze statue of Romulus and Remus. We managed to track the original down in
The Museum of Arts and History of Narbonne. This was hidden in yet another inner courtyard where fascinating gargoyles were being restored.
After walking around this interesting town, we made our way back through a sort of ‘tunnel’ of yet more interesting little shops.
WOULD THIS BE ‘THE MISTRAL’?
A sudden high wind followed by driving rain caused us to hurry back to our car, which was just as well, because soon all was darkness and Graham had to negotiate narrow country roads in a raging storm.
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
