LA FERTE SAINT-AUBIN – WORTH A DEVIATION
5th-8th May, 2018
ON THE ROAD – WE DEVIATE FOR LUNCH:
So leaving Orleans, we took the D15 road; a country route new to us. We had just reached a rather pretty village: (Ligny le Ribault, I later discovered.) Soon we reached an ancient barn converted to an eating place. It was open for lunch. I got out of the car to look at the menu – and then noticed a road sign pointing to La Ferte St Aubin – ll kilometres. (Google maps says 13.5 kilometres – but watch this space…)
JUST 11 KILOMETRES FROM BISTRO HEAVEN
Now we had fond memories of an exceptionally good lunch we had enjoyed on our 2015 tour of France. One day we had reached La Ferte St Aubin on our way from Rheims to Bourges. We had spent time admiring the local chateau, imposing for such a small village, and trying to attract the ducks and swans in the moat.
Travelling on through the village, we had happened upon a small bistro. Luckily, it was then open on a Sunday, too. (Rare in rural France.)
LA FERTE ST AUBIN – FINE GOURMET MEALS
IN A MODEST BISTRO
We had there enjoyed one of the very best meals of that holiday, following the recommendation of one of the French clients sitting at the next table on the veranda.
When today I pointed out the sign to Graham he said ‘Let’s go there. 11 Kilometres shouldn’t take too long. We can still catch lunch’.
FRENCH EQUIVALENT OF THE ENGLISH ‘COUNTRY MILE’
The country road (D61) to get across to the A10 was just the same as country roads in England – seemingly endless. Though it was not without interest.
ON THE D61 – AN EYE-CATCHING RARITY
Quite soon we stopped to admire an attractive and at first, puzzling cluster of buildings. Upon googling them later, they proved to be, of all things, a brickworks, with a most elegant, and now rare, kiln…
ARE ALL COUNTRY ROADS THIS SLOW?
After about 40 minutes slow driving we at last ended up in Ferte St Aubin and Graham ignored my memories of the bistro being next to the attractive chateau – now a hospital… (See feature image) There was no time to stop and admire the chateau, or the ducks and swans – not if we were going to catch the place open for lunch.
‘It’s right down the bottom of the village’ he insisted – and he was right, of course! We found a fair parked where we had previously left our car, and had to traverse by foot the crowded fairground in order to cross the road to the attractive bistro we remembered so well. It did not disappoint.
A ‘WHITE VAN PLACE?’
‘It must be a white-van place’ said Graham. After at least four visits to France we had learned to look out for “eateries” that at lunchtime were surrounded by white vans.
(It seems that French builders, electricians and suchlike have vouchers for meals at a set of venues.) We have consistently found such places to rate from good to truly excellent! Graham based his conclusion on the evidence of a menu offering a very affordable set meal of three courses – three choices of each – and sure enough, our table was set with the inimical iced water and wine that come as a matter of course with such meals. We were not sorry to have made the switch from the other, ‘newer’ road. This really is an excellent place.
Au Bistrot Gourmet, La Ferte Saint-Aubin.
We were lucky to find an empty table outside, under the awning. Tall trellis and bushes in tubs shielded us from the dust and bustle of the street.
The same cheerful chap we remembered from two years before came and took our order, and was happy to chat with us in excellent English while he awaited the summons from the kitchen. He said he remembered us.
INCREASED BY 2 EUROS IN 2 YEARS – 3 COURSES NOW €14
We settled for the three-course lunch; on the internet we noticed later that they were charging 14 euros in 2020 – up by 2 euros from our previous visits in 2016 and 2018, and worth every cent… (In 2018 we reckon that with the generous exchange rate we got from Covent Garden FX, the whole 3 courses for the two of us cost about £18).
WE STUFF OURSELVES WITH FRENCH COUNTRY FOOD
Greedily we worked our way through all three courses. There certainly would be no need to hunt for a restaurant that evening. As we rose to move off our waiter came to shake us by the hand.
“We see you next year, Monsieur,” he said. Well, that would be nice. We’ll have to wait and see…But do try it if you are in the area. Brilliant – Absolute!
Au Bistrot Gourmand
Téléphone: +33 238763045
91, rue du Général Leclerc, 45240 La Ferté Saint-Aubin, France
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
