French Cities

July 11, 2021

SAUMUR – MEDIEVAL CHATEAU

Jackie Usher French Chateau, French Cities Day trips

Sunday, 6^th May:

WE EXPLORE

Having upon our arrival read numerous leaflets at our disposal, we decided to explore Saumur, making first for the impressive chateau that overlooked the river. I begged that first we visit the Resistance Museum at Thouars, which could be on our way.

THE FRENCH ‘RESISTANCE’ IN WW2

Saumur - Steep hill up to Thouars — Steep hill up to Thouars

In my childhood in WW2 I had been deeply interested and worshipful of all the unbelievably brave people all over Europe who formed Resistance bands to hamper in any way they could the German troops who occupied their towns and villages. For some reason I had never been able to fit in a visit to any Resistance Museum; this one was close by, and the leaflet said it opened every day from 10am, so Graham readily agreed.

THOUARS ‘RESISTANCE’ MUSEUM IS

DIFFICULT TO FIND

The brochure said it was open from 10am.
It was a little difficult to locate in a quiet, garden-type square outside the town, opposite a church. We arrived about 11 am, but were disappointed to find all doors locked. Eventually a young woman came to answer the doorbell.

AND THEN IT WAS NOT OPEN –

“I am sorry – until the summer season we only open on Sunday afternoons. Can you come back after 2pm?”

As we intended a different treat for the next day, which meant driving in the opposite direction, we promised to return, and directed our SatNav to Saumur.

SAUMUR – THE CHATEAU DOMINATES

There was a series of pathways to the Chateau, but only one way was suitable for my increasingly useful motor scooter. It led over a bridge to where the strikingly beautiful chateau rose from a promontory high above the town. Saumur has evolved over the centuries, being built around the lazily winding River Loire below.
The Loire Valley is noted for the number of chateaux to be spotted and visited. Quite often, using by-roads, we found smaller gems that were not open to us, being private homes now. Evidently the Loire region had always been important historically.

Saumur - Saumur Chateau high above the Loire — Saumur Chateau high above the Loire

Saumur - Steps up to the Chateau — Steps up to the Chateau

TOO MANY STAIRS:

Not all ‘open’ chateaux are as beautiful as this one in Saumur. It was with sadness that I had to accept that I could not manage the many stairs involved to access it and explore inside. My efforts to persuade Graham to take the tour were rebuffed. He stoutly refused to leave me for an hour or so – but I can tell you that the leaflet says it is fully furnished inside with the proper kind of antique furniture.

Saumur - From a copy of the Duc du Berry in our collection — From a copy of the Duc du Berry in our collection

Theobold the Trickster, Count of Blois, laid the first stones in the 10th century. However, he soon lost it to Fulk III the Black who gave it to the Counts of Anjou. It later fell into the hands of our very own tempestuous Plantagenets, before being won back for the French throne by Phillip Augustus of France in 1203.

THE MARVEL OF VERY EARLY BUILDING:

THIS CHATEAU IS DEPICTED IN DUC DE BERRY’S ‘BOOK OF HOURS’

At this time, the four elegant towers were built around the keep, which served as a basis for the current château. In the 14^th century, Louis I of Anjou received the château as ‘appanage’ and transformed it into a magnificent princely residence, as illustrated in the famous Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry – a beautifully illustrated medieval Hourly Book of Prayers.

A MEDIEVAL MAKEOVER

New accommodation was built and the towers and outer walls were raised, complementing the height of the chimneys, gables and belvederes, as you still see it today.

LEGACIES ONLY OF THE VERY WEALTHY AND POWERFUL

As in our English ‘stately homes’, one has to accept that without the unequal status of The Establishment with great wealth and power, we would not, in these more mundane times, be able to marvel at the incredibly beauty and workmanship they commissioned.

SCOOTING AROUND

While Graham took photos (there was a wonderful old stable block) I toured slowly round on my scooter, exploring other likely subjects for him: After that we sat in the shade of a pavilion and sipped cooling drinks.

Saumur - Back View from the Chateau — Back View from the Chateau

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

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January 6, 2021

CHARTRES

Jackie Usher French Cities, Restaurants, Tourist Town Gourmet eating

4th May 2018

Chartres - Old Bridge at Chartres — Old Bridge at Chartres

CHARTRES COBBLES – MASSAGING MY KIDNEYS

We entered Chartres early that evening at the river end. Unknowingly, we had chosen the most difficult route to the Cathedral. It stands high above the town at the end of a long, steep, winding, cobbled hill. This ancient thoroughfare caused my scooter to judder alarmingly. It sent shivery thrills right through my body, starting at the soles of my feet. I hardly noticed that we were passing through the old medieval city…

Chartres - An old building at Chartres — An old building in Chartres

CHARTRES CATHEDRAL – SMALLER THAN MOST – BUT BEAUTIFUL

However, we reached the top, and entered the cathedral. It was strangely empty compared to many.

CHARTRES’ FAMOUS ORGAN:

Chartres - The Famous Organ — The Famous Organ

The famous organ, upon which Albert Schweitzer played many times, was very large. It seemed to have been plonked halfway up one of the extremely high pillars.

Chartres - Stain Glass Window — Stained Glass Window

CHARTRES CATHEDRAL’S STAINED GLASS

There were a lot of beautiful stained glass windows; not least the rose window over the main door; most impressive was the circle of windows backing the altar, and fronting a large statue of a flying angel. The colours flooding in were spectacular.

CHARTRES CATHEDRAL – WE MISS THE MOSAIC FLOOR

I wished that the famous floor tiled in a prehistoric maze pattern had not been covered with chairs. It always strikes me as funny – and encouragingly subversive – how so much pre-Christian stuff seems to seep into cathedrals. (The Green Man is hidden in both Winchester and Canterbury cathedrals back home).

CHARTRES – A PARADE GROUND ATOP THE CITY

We emerged to explore views seen from the ‘parade ground’ of a seminary or suchlike, next to the cathedral. Then it was time to start looking for food.

Chartres - A Shaded area behind the Cathedral — A shaded area behind the Cathedral

CHARTRES – AUTHENTIC LOCAL FOOD NO DEARER THAN ‘FAST-FOOD’

Chartres - View from Dinning Room — View from Dining Room

I’d already spotted a board with authentic local dishes standing outside an old house right opposite the ‘back door’ of the cathedral. Graham had demurred, thinking it too expensive, and set off to explore ‘that road with all the restaurants’. I let him go, knowing that he would find ‘chips with everything’ at exactly the same prices as asked here.

After a bit I went to meet him, and he had to agree that I’d spotted the better place. And so it proved.

CHARTRES – HAUTE-GOURMET MEAL – AFFORDABLE PRICE

Chartres - Le Cloitre Gourmand Restaurant — Le Cloitre Gourmand Restaurant

The very welcoming host ushered us into a room with very old wood panelling. It held only four or five tables, two of which were already occupied. The menu had three choices of entrée, and similar of Plat de Jour and dessert. There was a wine list, and the owner-chef suggested we try a local wine with our meal; and indeed, his choice proved very good with the exquisite gourmet food, which we enjoyed along with conversation from our fellow-diners, who all spoke English.

Le Cloitre Gourmand Restaurant: 21 Cloître Notre Dame, 28000 Chartres, France

CHARTRES CATHEDRAL – A LIGHT SHOW

Chartres - Chartres en lumières – the colourful north side of the cathedral — Chartres en lumières – the colourful north side of the cathedral

The icing on the cake was when our host diverted our attention to the window, where the entrance to the cathedral was displaying a light show; painting the saints in their robes with shifting blocks of colour. He was clever. Soon he was able to close up when his clientele all paid up and moved en bloc just outside. The recent diners mingled with school children who had been brought to view the show. After a while, Graham walked down alone to the car, left by the river, to drive it up the ‘easy’ way – right behind where we had just dined…

We both want to return to Chartres.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Grateful Thanks to Sarah Coppack (Own Your Days) Blog for her permission to use – Chartres en lumières – the colourful north side of the cathedral

October 16, 2020

CHARMING ROUEN

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Food markets, French Cities, Gardens, Restaurants

AN ELEGANT 17C STREET IN CHARMING ROUEN

We finally emerged from the Cathedral into warm sunshine. I had a grand time zooming along on my scooter, exploring all around the old streets, and enjoying the garden surrounding another great church. It stood on an elevated site, and to one side we looked down on a street of extremely elegant half-timbered houses, dating from a later period – we guessed 17^th century.

CHARMING ROUEN – LOOKING FOR LUNCH:

We found a student quarter where we could have lunched cheaply, but every café, both indoors and outside was crammed with young people who probably had limited time. And of course, there was a lot of noise. I felt sure there must be a better option close by.

A CHARMING SPOT IN ROUEN for DELICIOUS FOOD

I took off ahead of Graham, and not far away, up a side street, I found a lovely quiet, and very French café in a charming little corner. Trees shaded the tables, and a few larger ones sat under their own canopies. It was just behind and above the cathedral and off the Rue de La Republique. We entered it from a picturesque ancient passage called the Rue de Chanoines.

(L’Espiguette, 25 Place St-Amand, Rouen.)

Even although it was not yet one o’clock we were lucky to find the only small table for two that was not reserved. We were the only foreign customers. We felt we had struck gold – as indeed we had. The young manager (perhaps owner?) was very persuasive in talking us into what proved to be one of their 3-course specials. This was not what we had planned, but we were very pleased in the event. The delicious, well-presented food was worth every penny – and surprisingly reasonably priced for the quality and ingredients.

Charming Rouen - L’Espiguette — L’Espiguette

CHARMING MEMORIAL GARDEN FOR ‘THE RESISTANCE’:

Charming Rouen - A Magnifcent Wisteria Arbour — A Magnifcent Wisteria Arbour

We decided in the afternoon to visit a promising looking garden on our route back to the Ibis. To my initial chagrin, Graham chose the ‘wrong’ garden from the SatNav list – but my mood changed when it turned out to have been dedicated to the WW2 Martyrs of the French Resistance in Rouen. As a child in that war I am still very grateful to them, and in awe of all courageous Resistance Fighters.

This garden is truly a ‘Peoples’ Garden’; well attended, and with greenhouses and a water-rill garden-in-progress.

(Le Jardin les Plantes, Rouen)

WE EXPLORE – WATER GARDEN – CIDER BARN – ARBOURS

There was a picturesque old barn that proved to house a cider-press (intact) with various bits of ancient kit outside. This provided Graham with several photo-shots; but he is most proud of his studies of a lovely wisteria that overhung a little arbour where we sat in the shade. The weather had grown unexpectedly hot and humid.

Charming Rouen - Cider Barn and Press — Charming Rouen – Cider Barn and Press

Charming Rouen - The Conservatory — The Conservatory

I ENJOY ‘CONVERSATION’ OF FEW WORDS:

Later, we made our way to the principal, grand conservatory. It was closed, but I got into a very satisfactory conversation with a French lady my own age. She had about as many English words as I had French (between three and ten at that stage, I’d say). We got along like a house on fire until she indicated that she’d like to get back to reading her book.

THE FRENCH ARE A COURTEOUS RACE

During this month’s tour through France we found every French person we met to be courteous. All were very helpful and friendly. We saw no indication of resentment regarding Brexit, although when we invited comment it was clear that there is a general unhappiness about Britain leaving. Probably anger, also; though only a very few allowed it to show.

CHARMING ROUEN – MY SEAFOOD WAS SWIMMING IN CREAM

We went back in the evening for a very light supper to that restaurant next to our hotel – the Ibis Budget/Zenith, Rouen. We chose crepes. I was disappointed to find my seafood crepe swimming in cream, which I found a bit overwhelming.

(www.restaurant-le-chamois.com/Rouen Zenith/France.)

WHERE IS JOAN?

We did not go into the tourist office in Rouen, for some reason. (I think because there was so much ‘in our faces’.) Had we done so we might have learned where the only outdoor statue of Joan of Arc could be found – in a very modern church (and museum?) Presumably, Rouen feels too ashamed to put up a prominent statue of her in the city where she was burned to death.

I have since learned that there are several sites in the town that track her last months, and where you can read details of her lengthy trial. We are sure to return to Rouen (so easily accessible) and I shall make sure to find out more about this incredibly charismatic saint.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Jackie's book - picture all askew

October 16, 2020

ROUEN CATHEDRAL IS MAGNIFICENT

Jackie Usher French Churches, French Cities, Restaurants shopping, UNESCO World Heritage Site

3^rd May 2018:

ROUEN CATHEDRAL IS MAGNIFICENT

Rouen cathedral is world famous. Everyone who passes through Rouen makes sure to at least see its very elaborate frontage, painted so many times by the well-known and loved Impressionist Claude Monet. We decided that such a World Heritage sight deserves not just a post all to itself – but the First Mention in Rouen…

ROUEN CATHEDRAL DESERVES FIRST MENTION:

The details of our stay in Rouen, like our hotel and other discoveries, are described in the post following. So I have jumped forward to our first port of call on our first morning in this celebrated historical city.

Rouen - Truly awe-inspiring Arches — Truly awe-inspiring Arches

MAGNIFICENT ROUEN CATHEDRAL – PHOTO-SHOTS

After Graham had taken numerous photos of the well-known Cathedral frontage, he turned his attention to buildings in the immediate area.

Sadly, the very lovely old apothecary’s building (now the Tourist Information Centre) did not make a good photograph at all – its best features did not show up when we finally had a good look back home.

MAGNIFICENT ROUEN CATHEDRAL’S VAST INTERIOR

To my secret relief, we finally entered through a side door into the echoing cathedral. So long and high are the aisles, that one is almost overwhelmed by the plethora of soaring arches – impossibly high. Craning my neck, I could see that each supported a vaulted roof, and collectively they fronted many a side-chapel.

What really impressed me were the lines of saints along some of the walls (see Feature Photo). They were all rescued from the exterior (probably the so-elaborate front entrance, which is impossible to take in all at once). Some were very worn indeed, while others were easily recognisable – certainly by Catholics, whom I imagine will know their canon of saints quite well by the symbols they carry.

ROUEN CATHEDRAL RETAINS MUCH OLD STAINED GLASS

Rouen - One of the Many Stained Glass Windows — One of the Many Stained Glass Windows

There were a few very old stained glass windows, and one lovely Rose Window. What impressed us both were the high, mainly blue windows of great intricacy that formed a semi-circle behind the freestanding altar at the far end from the main door.

Rouen - Stone Staircase — Stone Staircase

WE FIND ROUEN CATHEDRAL’S ‘WOW’ FEATURE:

But even they were superseded when, moving to leave by the front entrance, we glanced down a side aisle towards the reredos and both let out an ‘Ooohhh’. We simultaneously spotted a most delicate small stairway of stone lace. It seems almost unique in its intricacy, and pretty coloured stone. Graham took many photographs of this early masterpiece.

Rouen - The Cathedral Tower — The Cathedral Tower

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

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