CASTROVILLARI
HOMEWARD BOUND
CASTROVILLARI.
13th November:
POLIZZIEI DIRECTED US
When we got off the ferry and had disentangled ourselves from the mish-mash of cars noisily entering and leaving the port we found ourselves on a fast highway. All Graham’s attention had to be on his driving, so he missed seeing the new range of mountains that marched along with us. We were in the Pollino National Park.
HECTIC HIGHWAY – ALMOST MISSED THE TURNING
So hectic was the traffic both ways that we almost missed the turning to Castrovillari.
This narrow road ran between rather barren grassland at the foot of quite a high mountain. It was flanked by trees, and some scattered, rather dull 1930’s-style houses and then small warehouses before the town started in earnest. Above the tall houses, churches and municipal buildings we caught glimpses of snow-covered peaks of nearby mountains.
Oh dear, I thought, wondering if I’d made a bad choice when booking. The SatNav took us through an equally uninspiring edge of town until a small sign on a wall pointed us down what very soon turned into a lane.
BACKWARDS AND FORWARDS – WE SEARCH IN VAIN –
We went down to the bottom, as we thought. There were a few larger houses of some age, and they had B&B signs. None was the one I had booked. We were a bit desperate, and at last I persuaded Graham to ask two local men walking their dogs. (Note: why are men so reluctant to ask the way when in a totally strange place? It’s probably the first thing most women would do.)
WE HAD TO ASK THE LOCALS
Those nice men did that Italian thing of ‘walking’ our car a considerable way further down the deserted lane. After quite a while we found ourselves facing two large cast-iron gates. One of our guides spoke into an intercom. The gates slowly swung open for us.
WE FEEL LIKE HONOURED GUESTS.
Casale Valleverde, Castrovillari, Calabria.
We really did have trouble finding this house. It did not look promising – UNTIL WE ENTERED THE GATES…
Paradise! We entered a truly lovely large garden even in mid-November, and a gracious, artistic private home. As we drove through the gates we could see the pantiles of the house through the gnarled branches of olive trees. We wove through what seemed like an ancient olive grove. We were later told that the the house was a restored farmhouse. It sat in the midst of very old olive trees. This dwelling was like nothing we had seen before. it was now the height of modernity; quite beautiful.
We were welcomed like old, honoured friends by the twenty-year old son. Mother was in Rome and Father out on business. However, this pleasant young man (whose English was impeccable) sat us down in comfortable armchairs. He gave us English tea and homemade biscuits before showing us our simply furnished but comfortable room with luxurious en suite.
A FAMILY-OWNED TRATTORIA
Our host presently came in. He spoke impeccable English, and gave us information about the area: Its history, and the amenities it offers visitors in the present day.
After sharing aperitifs, he drove us into town, to the very door of an excellent family-owned trattoria. It offered the very best home-type cooking with professional sophistication. The daughter of the house had her little friends in. They had much fun and argument adding up our bill. It was perused by her mother before being handed to us – and was quite correct.
We can’t remember the restaurant so if you happen to stay at Casale Valleverde then do ask them for the name as the food was wonderful.
When we returned to Casale Valleverde we were offered wine and Limoncello, or cognac. We exchanged toasts with father and son, sitting around the log fire.
AN EXCEPTIONAL HOSTESS – AFTER 2 HRS SLEEP SHE PRODUCED A FEAST
Although she had caught the night train from Rome, Signora still got up at 5am to bake cakes for our copious breakfast, taken on the sun-baked terrace. I remember in particular an enormous bowl of beautifully arranged fruit of every type. I was amazed to look up to see this stoical lady energetically cleaning the full-length patio windows.
This family really spoil you, and are full of information to share.
After a short wander round their beautiful, extensive garden we waved goodbye and were on our way. This is a very special B&B. You will enjoy gracious living at a reasonable price.
B&B Casale Valleverde, +39368695057 : Via San Giovanni Vecchio, 87012 Castrovillari, Italy.
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
