Jackie Usher

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September 8, 2020

TOURING FRANCE IN MAY 2018

Jackie Usher good beach - sea views, Local History, Restaurants, Tourist Town

WIRRAL- M25 –FOLKESTONE

1^st MAY:

BUSY M6 IS NOT ALWAYS FASTEST

We left our home on the Wirral at about 10.00am on a Tuesday morning to start our holiday touring France: May Day 2018, to be precise. Woman’s Hour had just started on our car radio. We enjoyed the fresh yellowy-green of the new leaves on the trees lining our route on our comfortable local M53. Then we veered off onto our chosen ‘country’ route (the A51.)

We went through pretty villages all the way to Stone, where we changed to the M6 toll (worth the charge). The exit would join us up with the M40.

WRONG TURNING – GRAHAM OR MISS SATNAV?

Only it didn’t – because Graham took the wrong turning and we were heading for the M1… However, it took less than an hour to weave our way back, and all went well until we reluctantly entered the M25.

**M25 – REALLY, TRULY – AVOID THE RUSH HOURS!**

The delay had landed us into the evening rush hour. Of course, a measure of frustration, but it could have been worse, and we arrived at Folkestone around 7pm.

FOLKSTONE – FIRST STOP

I had decided to spend the first night in Folkestone in order to catch the 10.40am Dover to Calais ferry. DFDS offered the best crossing price,and in Folkestone I found a really cheap hotel for the overnight stop. Dover tends to be more expensive, and I like to save money on the first and last legs of our journeys, when we are intent on ‘getting somewhere’.

FOLKESTONE

FOLKESTONE deserves to be written of in its own right. This is a ‘special’ town in my estimation.

We entered via the ‘posh’ end; well preserved Victorian boarding houses and streets of impressive family homes. The road in was interspersed with beds of tulips – either red and yellow variety or pink. I cannot remember – only that they showed this town was not down-at-heel, as we had sadly found Hastings to be the previous autumn.

BRAVE SURVIVORS OF THE BATTLE OF BRITAIN:

We were booked in at the grandly named Carlton Hotel. We discovered it to be one of the two very early Victorian survivors standing like two sound front teeth at the front of a mouth full of stumps and gaps. The ‘stumps’ were rather ugly in-fills of the 1950’s and ‘60’s. These two old, tall white buildings had obviously once been part of a grand terrace that ran along the very top of the white cliffs. They were conveniently above the lift and the funicular railway that took the residents down to the shingle beach far below.

AN EXCELLENT MIDDLE-EASTERN MEAL.

We checked in, and immediately went in search of food. We walked down ‘into town’. Only I imagine it wasn’t, because it was empty at eight pm, and we saw no restaurants. After walking several streets we turned back up to the clifftop and our hotel.

On the corner we spotted a Middle Eastern restaurant. Okay, not the hearty steak I was visualising – but we like Arab food. The place looked cheerily colourful.

As soon as we crossed the threshold we were greeted with a wide smile and words of welcome, and shown to a pretty little inlaid table. Immediately iced water and a tray of nibbles was set before us, followed by the menus.

From first to last, this was the most delicious Middle Eastern meal we had ever eaten, we agreed. We left the girl a generous tip, and went up to thank the chefs cooking in full view. We have vowed that if we are able to return to Folkestone we will certainly book a table at this resturant:

Aspendos Turkish Restaurant, West Terrace, Folkestone. 01303 241688

WIRRAL- M25 –FOLKESTONE - Bandstand — Bandstand

I IMAGINE THE PAST GLORIES OF THIS ROAD

We decided to walk off our meal by exploring the cliff-top path that ran close by our hotel’s road.

In my mind’s eye I could trace that grass-fronted terrace right down to the West end. I imagined pretty Regency hostelries, because, still intact, an exquisitely delicate Regency bandstand still graced the lawn at the cliff edge. (I imagine it must have been removed to a safe place during the wars, and replaced later.)

FOLKESTONE REMEMBERS

At the other end of the terrace, we were surprised, on a late evening walk, to arrive at a quite large paved square. It contained chairs built in along its walls on one side: A very high, very thin arch of polished steel dominated it. Upon closer inspection, this was studded with jewel-like tiny lights, or reflectors – I cannot quite remember which.

WIRRAL- M25 –FOLKESTONE - Memorial Arch — Memorial Arch

THE BRAVE BOYS OF THE RAF

We discovered a plaque nearby. It told us that this was Folkestone’s tribute to all the brave boys of our RAF Fighter Squadrons, who daily and nightly fought and died – often in front of the sight of the town.

These young men (some teenagers) were not only fending off German bombers from our shores. There were also ‘planes carrying paratroopers intent on landing. The residents of Folkestone saw much of this activity at close hand. Many fell victim when surplus German bombs were released on our cliff-top towns before the enemy headed back to their airfields on the continent. Our hotel’s ‘makeshift’ road bore ample witness…

IN FOLKESTONE THEY STILL CROCHET POPPIES:

It was too dark to read the plaques on every seat. I feel I must go back to discover if they commemorate residents who died in the raids or the many RAF squadrons who sacrificed their very young lives so that we might live. In any case – Folkestone still remembers them. The proof is a hedge that is thickly strewn with hand-crocheted poppies, many faded and fading, but topped with newly wrought scarlet wool flowers. It was all very moving.

OUR HOTEL – SAD SURVIVOR OF WAR

Our hotel had seen better days. The interior as you entered was gloomy with a mainly black wallpaper, and the ground floor had been ‘filled in’ to create more small rooms. However, our bedroom was clean and cheerful, though the en-suite’ had been created from a cupboard, and our bed was lumpy. Sadly, I have to say that we did not sleep well.

Even so, I count it a privilege to have stayed in this ‘survivor’ from better Days. It would once have been one of the most prestigious places to stay, I imagine. Right now, the Eastern European manager could not have been more kind and helpful.

COURAGEOUS FOLKESTONE – A SUGGESTION:

I feel that the town should buy this building and the identical one next to it, and have the two restored and used as a museum charting the history of the town and this cliff-top road in particular.

I am old enough to remember the days when families would huddle over their breakfast table, conversing in whispers, in order not to ‘disturb’ the similar family at the next table. It still strikes me as an absurd illustration of the British in the 1930’s, ‘40’s and ‘50s – just like Father’s knotted handkerchief protecting his bald patch when paddling.

I salute Folkestone: A brave town that has survived most terrible losses and come up smiling… Smart and vigorous – and it still remembers and celebrates those who fought so hard overhead

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

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August 18, 2020

OTRANTO

Jackie Usher Art, Day trips, Festivals, Restaurants, Tourist Town shopping

STAYING WITH NEW FRIEND LUCIO

Meanwhile, we three carried on down to Otranto, where we had booked two nights with Lucio the hunter. He who, you may remember, we had met when we took Lolly to eat at Peppino’s. (Also, from the information on Lucio’s business card, our new host was quite big in banking.)

We had a very quick look around the town, which was just as well, because we had difficulty in finding the right road for Lucio’s farmhouse. Eventually Graham ‘phoned him for directions, and we found him waiting for us on the ‘main road’ where he hopped into our car to ‘talk us’ to our destination.

The ‘farmhouse’ was quite small, but had a nice, covered area for outside living.

We were taken inside and shown to our small but attractive bedrooms, both en-suite, to refresh ourselves and change for dinner. Afterwards, we relaxed in the comfortable lounge with aperitifs. The art on the walls (all depicting a hunting interest,) and the large, solid furnishings, declared that this was clearly a man’s home.

A MEMORABLE MEAL

I must tell you of the memorable meal we all enjoyed.

Lucio’s girl friend was there when we arrived, and that evening cooked some very good pasta with lamb and porcini; but his friends brought the piece-de-la-resistance.

They arrived bearing an enormous dish of delicately cooked seafood, caught by them that very afternoon. We had brought wine; almost sufficient for that company – but enough wine is never a problem in Italy. Everyone spoke English, and that meal was very convivial, with lots of laughter. We have learned that Italian and English people have a similar sense of humour.

MORE SMALL TOWN APPEAL – A MOORISH PALACE BY THE SEA

OTRANTO - The once hotel-Mosque — The once hotel-Mosque

The next morning we found Vivien and Lucio busy weeding in his garden. After we had managed to extract her and have a quick breakfast, we took a trip down the coast. There was something special we wanted to show Vivien. At the small, smart resort of Santa Cesaria Terme we stopped to look at a fabulous hotel on the edge of a cliff, which had been built to resemble a beautiful mosque, or Moorish palace.

When Graham and I first spotted it in 2011 you could see it from further up the coast. On first sighting it was gobsmackingly strange and beautiful, painted in various exotic colours. To our dismay, this time we found that the restoration work had ceased and vandals had helped to wreck it. The lovely colours were all faded. We could have cried, and the surprising impact we’d planned for Vivien was diminished. However, we bought lovely fresh figs and other fruit from a street vendor.

SMALL TOWN APPEAL – IS CASTRO APULIA’S SMALLEST RESORT?

OTRANTO - Castro restaurant — Castro restaurant

A bit further down the road we spotted an attractive bar, just outside the old city wall. The courtyard seating, set within shrubs, had a good view of the water gently lapping the rocks. The enclosure was almost full of happily chatting people, and there were good smells drifting into our car.

‘Time for lunch’, I think’, said Graham, and by mutual agreement we all tumbled out .

We found a table, and upon studying the menu, Vivien gave a cry of delight. ‘They have a great variety of tapas,’ she announced.

That sounded perfect. Three choices each, and we’d all share.

Well – I still remember that lunch as a mini-feast. We were all quite stuffed by the time all the little dishes were emptied.

It was agreed that we could all do with a walk. Of course, I was a bit slow, and tired first, so I took the car keys and left the others to quicken their pace to take them round a bit further. It did not take them long to circumnavigate the whole huddle of dwellings.

Bar Fonte Dei Messapi – Piazza Armando Perotti, 73030 Castro, Italy – +39 388 871 0982

SMALL TOWN APPEAL IN APULIA ENCHANTS - Lizard

LITTLE BOATS – LARGE LIZARDS & LOOMING TOWERS

Meeting back at the car we discussed what to do next. Vivien said she’d welcome a really good look round Otranto. Graham and I had already previously driven down this coast, so we readily agreed.

OTRANTO - Old-defensive-tower — Old-defensive-tower

‘Can we stop and look at one of those strange stone towers on the edge of the cliffs?’ I asked. I had been intrigued with them the first time we’d seen them in 2011, and again, that day, on the way down.

Returning up the coast, the sun shining hotly again, we turned off the road onto a rocky outcrop which jutted into the sea. While Graham and Vivien climbed up to look at one of the unique stone towers which line that part of the coast, I returned to the rough track. Looking over the shoulder-high wall I found a hidden cove huddled down amongst the base of the steep cliffs upon which we were perched. Little boats moved lazily in and out, and a small motor boat was circling round and round, while a girl standing on the highest rock tracked it with her camera.

When the others joined me we all became fascinated by a family of lizards. One was quite enormous. They regarded us with the same curiosity we extended to them.

SMALL TOWN APPEAL – BUYING CHRISTMAS GIFTS IN OTRANTO

OTRANTO - Otranto-city-walls — Otranto-city-walls

It was mid-afternoon by the time we parked on the quayside. Otranto is a very lovely town, full of diamond-flagged grand boulevards, and piazzas of pretty pinky-white stone; also those steep little streets of whitewashed houses. There was a beautiful old castle, which I explored with Vivien while Graham went his own way to take photographs. (He has only just confessed to spending the whole time relaxing in the shade outside a nearby bar, swallowing cold beers.)

OTRANTO - Time to wander in Otranto — Time to wander in Otranto

In the upper town we found many small, whitewashed shops in the narrow lanes. We all saw nice souvenirs, like clothes being sold off cheaply at end-of-season. I bought some more Christmas gifts (mainly jewellery)and again wished we could have found room in our car for some of the colourful local pottery. We may find many more examples of the potter’s art in this area if we are ever able to return.

SMALL TOWN APPEAL – IMPORTANT TREASURE – DON’T MISS THIS – 11^thC MOSAIC

But the abiding memory of this town is the vast 11^th century mosaic covering the entire floor of the old Duomo, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunciata:

This enormous work was executed by one 11^th century monk.

The church is now emptied of pews and altar so that visitors can walk round the edges and marvel at the beauty and detail of this colourful and sometimes quirky depiction of ‘The Tree of Life’. It is a beautiful cathedral with arched alcoves down one side, where we descended to the crypt, where there was a good exhibition about the history – and that of the town, too.

BELIEVE ME – WEEDS TASTE LIKE WEEDS

Lucio’s girlfriend had left that morning, and Vivien and Lucio told us that they would prepare dinner. We heard earnest discussion emanating from the kitchen, and wondered what they had in store for us.

I won’t say whose idea it was to serve weeds up for our evening meal – just that Graham and I later agreed (with grimaces) that they still tasted like weeds – somewhat bitter, however ECO-FRIENDLY they may be. Unfortunately, Graham didn’t take a photo; but needless to say, his good description of the vegetables was ‘nappy-green sludge’.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

August 18, 2020

OSTUNI – APULIA’S ENCHANTING WHITE CITY

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Art, Day trips, Food shopping, Sightseeing

OSTUNI – APULIA’S ENCHANTING WHITE CITY

We made sure to stop and explore Ostuni, which was on our way to join the coast road. Another remembered favourite, it is called locally The White City because from a distance its hill is crowned with sparkling white buildings. Once inside, we were enchanted by the steep and narrow, winding cobbled streets in the old town. Unsurprisingly, every house was painted a fresh, glaring white, which set off the pots of geraniums on steps and balconies, and the festoons of bougainvillea of every hue.

SMALL TOWN APPEAL IN APULIA ENCHANTS - Ostuni-alleyway — Ostuni-alleyway

NARROW LANES – TEMPTING LITTLE SHOPS

SMALL TOWN APPEAL IN APULIA ENCHANTS - Ostuni-visitors-climbing-the-steep-streets — Ostuni-visitors-climbing-the-steep-streets

In the upper town we found many small, whitewashed shops in the narrow lanes. We were all attracted by nice souvenirs, like clothes being sold off cheaply at end-of-season. I bought some elegant scarves and pashminas for Christmas gifts on our return, and wished we could have found room in our car for some of the colourful pottery. I fell in love with some intricately pierced white china lamps, and antique terra-cotta amphora, which I would have argued to find room for could we have afforded them.

We may find many more examples of the potter’s art in this area if we are ever able to return.

VIVIEN AND I BEHAVE LIKE TEENAGERS

Vivien and I had great fun trying on hats in one shop. Hats do not suit me, but I was disappointed when she did not buy an immense floppy-brimmed job in bright mustard yellow. She looked fabulously elegant in it, and the colour suited her. There was also a treasure-trove of costume jewellery. I bought some for small gifts for friends when we returned home.

Ostuni is very close to Cisternino, where many Trulli are dotted by the road and in further fields only a couple of miles out into the country.

WE SEARCH IN VAIN FOR A REMEMBERED RISTORANTE –

I was surprised and a bit miffed not to find a wonderful ‘wine cellar’ restaurant we’d visited five years before – but later, when we stayed those two nights with Francesca after taking Vivien to her plane in Brindisi, I think we found it in Ciobica, the next little town towards Cisternino, but on the other road. Sadly, at that time of day, it was closed.

SMALL TOWN APPEAL IN APULIA ENCHANTS - Duomo's bell tower - Ostuni — Duomo’s bell tower – Ostuni

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)

Photographs by – Graham Usher.

August 9, 2020

POMPEI – B&B GIVES TLC

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Fond Farewells, Food, Italian B&Bs, Visiting friends Greeting friends, Local restaurant

14^th November:

POMPEI:

IN THE GRIP OF RAGING INFLUENZA

Pompei was our next stop, where we were fearful of taking our germs. We were both thankful that the journey that day took only 2hrs 22 minutes, because by now the influenza symptoms were raging within me, also. We both dreamed of taking our aching limbs straight back into bed.

POMPEI – HOW WE FIRST MET OUR ITALIAN FAMILY

We had booked four nights with Martina and her brother Salvatore in their B&B La Casa di Plinio. For some years now it has been rated in Trip Advisor as the No.1 ‘Hotel’ in Pompei. This was our fourth stay with them. We had received such a warm welcome on our very first visit in 2009 to view the ruins, when Martina’s mother, Antonella, was in charge of La Casa de Plinio (Martina being on holiday).

B&B Pompei | La Casa di Plinio ttps://www.lacasadiplinio.com/en/homepage/

POMPEI – WELCOMED WITH WINE AND CAKES

Antonella had insisted on ushering us into the owner’s private kitchen, where she plied us with wine and cakes (we had been out for a pizza already). When her husband, Andrea, came in from work, we settled into a convivial evening, with the help of a tablet he owned (very new, then) which translated our conversations both ways.

POMPEI – GOING BACK IN ORDER TO SEE THE REST OF ANCIENT POMPEII

So in 2011 we arranged our route to stay a night or two at La Casa di Plinio with this welcoming family on our way down to the heel of Italy.

We also booked five nights in 2014, planning to view the ‘other end’ of the vast Roman site. (We like to take our time and explore in depth).

IN 2014 CONSERVATION OF ANCIENT POMPEII LED US TO HERCULANEUM

It was a bitter disappointment then to find that all the great villas at the station end of the Pompeii site were closed for conservation – including the famous brothel, with its naughty murals.

POMPEI – A ‘DROP-EVERYTHING’ WELCOME

Pompei - B&B gives TLC - Vincenzo — Vincenzo

The minute we arrived at La Casa di Plinio in 2014 Martina must have telephoned the entire family, because within ten minutes all were there, kissing and hugging us. Martina’s partner Vincenzo, and Salvatore, her brother roared up on their motorbikes. They had taken time off work just in order to show us their pleasure at our arrival!

2014 – WE ARE TOLD ‘YOU ARE OUR FAMILY’

Martina and Salvatore’s mother, Antonella, closely followed them. She is an incredibly beautiful woman with a heart as fair as her face. She was leading HER mother…

That was when we were told ‘you are our family, Jackie; Graham. You eat with us tonight. Andrea will be home from Naples.’ Thus was formed a bond which will never break. Italians really treasure ‘famiglia’. More openly apparent than in some families back in England.

HERCULANEUM

WE ‘TRY’ HERCULANEUM – AND FIND IT REWARDING

We had already thoroughly explored the two colossea in Pompeii: Also the forum, the graveyard and the numerous streets that led to the site café. We reluctantly decided that perhaps a trip to nearby Herculaneum might be the better option on that holiday. It was a fortunate decision. In some ways the smaller site is more rewarding. In Herculaneum many houses, and even blocks of Roman flats, are still quite intact. This was due to the way the holiday resort was instantly buried under hot ash. This preserved even wooden furniture (now in Naples museum) and balcony rails and still-bright roof tiles. I would love to see one house furnished with replicas of the originals.

HERCULANEUM – FOSSILISED SKELETONS OF FLEEING FAMILIES

Instead of casts of the bodies found, as in Pompeii, in Herculaneum you can still view the fossilized skeletons of the families who had fled to the ‘last haven’ – the boathouses by the old seashore. We found it intensely moving, as did Lolly and other visitors on our later trips.

POMPEI – DRIVING AROUND VESUVIUS

We also drove the winding road around Vesuvius, discovering some intriguing towns. One was full of very good wall paintings. We bought excellent ‘volcanic’ wine, and fresh cherries and other fruits from farmers selling at the roadside.

POMPEI – A FEAST WITH OUR ITALIAN ‘FAMIGLIA’

There was a memorable feast that year (2014) with our ‘famiglia’. It was the night before we first explored Bari, and hopped on the overnight ferry to Croatia. It was supposed to be our treat to our lovely host family. However, we strongly suspected that Andrea, the father, had another arrangement with the owner of the restaurant they picked.

– AND AN ASSORTMENT OF RELATIVES AND FRIENDS

We sat outside at a large table placed beneath cunningly lit vines. It was all very romantic. Andrea insisted on taking over the ordering. Food kept coming – in the Italian way. As did various relatives and friends of the family. They would turn up and plonk themselves down on a spare chair, and often partake of a course or two. This is also a common Italian custom. The lovable Italian people open their big hearts so readily. They are the experts in extending celebration and welcome to all who seek them out: An example to us all.

Since then we have been embraced as part of the Casa di Plinio family – Antonella, Andrea, and their children Salvatore and Martina; and Martina’s partner, Vincenzo.

POMPEI – BACK IN 2016 AGAIN – HUGS, KISSES AND COOKING:

As usual, the moment we turned into the courtyard, Martina was on her mobile phone, rushing down from her flat and letting us in through the large gate. Within fifteen minutes the entire family surrounded us. We were hugging and kissing (couldn’t stop them, but averted our faces when they kissed – we didn’t wish to pass on our germs).

Salvatore and Vincenzo had left their work, and had to rush back – but they still came. As usual, roaring up on their motorbikes.

Andrea’s work took him much further afield, but that evening he cooked a special welcome meal for us in the house where he and Antonella live. Graham and I struggled to do justice to the delicious food, the ‘flu having robbed us of all appetite.

POMPEI – WE RECEIVE TLC.

Our Italian family (they long ago adopted us) were great. I don’t know what we would have done without their loving help. They were in the throes of redecorating all the rooms, which they do every year. They did not close while the refurbishing went on, as they had planned.

Despite this we both stayed in bed for three days, and because I was still very poorly they agreed that we could stay out the week, which gave me two more days in bed. So Martina accepted another couple, and also an Italian family, the mother of whom became a thorn in her side. ‘I’ll never accept Italians again. They are the worst,’ she declared. (I’m sure that’s not true, really.)

MARTINA NURSES ME – AND CANCELS OUR NEXT B&B’S

Graham got up on the fourth day but I stayed in bed. Martina had the work of cancelling two nights at Cinque Terre and one at Orange, which we had both looked forward to seeing. We’d also very regretfully cancelled our original booking to stay again at the charming house of Svetlana and Lucio Bigero in the eco-park of Selva Grande. They are very charming people, who welcome you into their home. The accommodation is spacious and colourful, and full of good art. The rest of the house is also a reflection of its lively minded and artistic owners, with lots of books and musical instruments.

B&B Villa Selva Grande, 00060 Sant’Oreste, Metropolitan City of Rome, Italy. Phone: +39 329 681 7194

Whilst there, we had planned to again eat at a small restaurant where the chef is ‘passionate about food’. It is situated at the foot of a nearby mountaintop town full of artists and craftsmen. Even the little shops were artistic and colourful.

Instead, we decided on a more direct route of one-night stops in order to reach the Channel tunnel on the 29^th November.

POMPEI – HOT DRINKS AND A LIGHT, NUTRITIOUS LUNCH

Meanwhile, Martina kept popping in with hot drinks and offers to make food. We declined, until on our last day, when I knew I must get up (we’d be travelling next morning).

To our surprise Antonella arrived and cooked lunch for everyone, including Martina’s delightful, hardworking assistant, Anna. We met her wedged in, crowded around the small table. She was passing bowls of a very light spaghetti dish containing Calabrese (and celery? It was a long time ago). I know the sauce was light green and so delicious that I managed to eat half of my bowlful.

Pompei - B&B gives TLC - Farewell Lunch at La Casa di Plinio — Farewell Lunch at La Casa di Plinio

POMPEI – CAR REPAIRS – FAMILY FAREWELLS.

We left Pompei on Sunday the 20^th. November, 2016.

I felt pretty rough, but just well enough to travel. At least the delay had given Graham time in the last day or two to use our friends’ motor mechanic to check out the Golf. (After all our challenges our eleven-year-old steed was starting to show signs of wear.)

A Good job, too! The mechanic found two valves in the water system that were almost blocked. He replaced the cheapest and cleaned the dearest, and said we should now have no trouble and safely see the white cliffs of Dover. (How we were going to do that from the tunnel begs the question…) Graham, delighted by the low bill, said he was being cheerfully Italian.

LEMON & ORANGES FROM THE TREE

Before we left Graham went into our friends’ garden and picked a lemon and some oranges. The temperature in the sun was a pleasant 21C. So with the warmth and the sun shining, not a bad place to have ‘flu, we thought. Better than England in mid-November.

POMPEI – IF THEY STILL HAVE SPACE – DO NOT MISS THIS SPECIAL B&B:

B&B La Casa Di Plinio Via Stabiana 3, 80045 Pompei, Italy.

Home: 0818598960; Martina Mobile: 00393339453170; Salvatore Mobile: 00393934008187
e mail: info@lacasadiplinio.com

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

August 6, 2020

NEARLY THERE

Jackie Usher Italian long stay Driving, Family Restaurants, National Parks

Our First Journey Ending.

DAY 14: 16th September: Grottole:

Our first journey (down to Basilicata) was nearing its end.

Just below are my notes when planning the journey down – but in the event we did not take that route:

Our original, Pre-planned Route: SS615 to Grottole (B&B near Matera): 5hrs driving if you choose the road going through Parc de Gran Sasso (mountains & steppes! – saw a photo of them poking out of the clouds). Up ss602 was optional – or alternatively to Casteluccio (featured on TV as THE place for lentils and those special sausages. You would have to turn back after a bit). Then E80/A14 + sr6/sp230 to Grottole.

(The Parc de Sasso is 3hrs 50 minutes from Grottole – so rather too long for a day trip.)

However; there had been recent earthquakes, and we thought the populace could well do without us appearing to gawp, and generally obstructing the rescue operations.

Instead, as we recall, from L’Aquila we dropped more or less straight down to Benevento. We then passed by Potenza (not going in) and on to Grottole. By that time we were just aching to get to our base, drop off all our luggage, and rest…

But we were still well rewarded by the shorter alternative route we took: ‘Taking five’ to refresh our memories of Popoli, last visited years before. We had a nice little walk round; then on to Benevento, driving through mountains.

WE TURN OFF OUR ROAD – DESPERATE FOR FOOD!

Shortly after skirting Benevento we wondered if we’d ever hit a town in time for lunch. I studied the map and found that we’d shortly be reaching a village with the intriguing name of Castello-del-Lago. (CASTLE BY THE LAKE- though we never saw either.) Instead, we turned into a street with modern, rather characterless houses – no castle or lake in sight, but an open space with a bar. By this time I was desperate for a WC. The lady behind the bar divined this and pointed to the back (generally you have to stop to buy a kaffè or something similar).

A Walk on the Wild Side.

When I came out she ushered us both out of the door. Graham said he had asked her if there was anywhere we could have lunch – her shelf held only ciabattas and little cakes in packets – we were ready for a meal. When she picked up her phone he had not realised that she was booking a table for us at a farm-restaurant close by. We were literally guided to our meal by this kind lady, who left her customers to walk, baby on hip, in front of our car and around a zigzag of houses to a secluded courtyard – and there was this wonderful hotel/restaurant with mine host standing outside to greet us.

Are we nearly there yet-AZIENDA-AGRITURISTICA-ANTICA-MASSERIA - The end of the Journey — Antica Masseria where we had a wonderful lunch

Fish, Spaghetti – and Surreal Art.

Augusto Pisani is an artist in food (or is it his wife?) as well as his many art works which adorn the walls of his charming dining rooms in AZIENDA AGRITURISTICA ANTICA MASSERIA. Stradone Masserie, 7, 83030 Castello del Lago AV, Italy (You need to link it to Venticano, the nearest commune when looking on the internet.

We were really too early for lunch- but friendly Signor Pisani took us on a tour through several rooms to view his paintings, sculptures and very unusual collages. (If I remember rightly, there were lots of bare-breasted ladies with strange bits and pieces stuck on them.) He then discussed our order and rushed off to the kitchen, returning to take us into more rooms and a private room with his collection of ancient sculptures, amphora, and other antiquarian treasures.

STRICTLY BUSINESS LUNCHES?

The restaurant started to fill, and we couldn’t help noticing all the middle-aged businessmen entertaining their pretty young secretaries; and there was one very attractive woman who sat on her own, obviously waiting for someone, and trying hard not to show that she cared when no one showed up…

GRAHAM GET SPECIAL TREATMENT

The menu was quite fish-oriented, which delighted me, but not Graham, who asked if he could have pasta with – maybe funghi? It was not on the menu, but made especially for him with wonderful fresh porcini from the nearby mountains: But first we had a complimentary starter – fried polenta on a bed of fresh ricotta with capers, if I remember rightly. Anyway, it was absolutely delicious, as was all the food in this hidden palace of culinary delights – even the salads were special.

GOURMET FOOD AT A REASONABLE PRICE

A memorable and refreshing stop in a long day’s drive (and a surprisingly reasonable bill). We would love to return some day. We only ate there, but judging from the restaurant, I would imagine that the bedrooms are certainly satisfactory, but almost certainly comfortable and artistic. AZIENDA AGRITURISTICA ANTICA MASSERIA Stradone Masserie, 7, 83030 Castello del Lago AV, Italy

Sun-Baked Land of Basilicata.

Soon after taking our leave we found our journey taking us through a quieter countryside. The buildings gradually changed from a definite Romanesque to a distinctly Mediterranean look. The rather flat, dried fields and agricultural and factory outlets of the bottom edge of Campania suddenly gave way to a rugged landscape with the main road snaking through a deep valley. This eventually opened out to something unexpected and totally new: A very feminine, swelling land.

Are we nearly there yet - The-soft -hills-of-basilicata - The end of the Journey — The soft undulating hills warmed by the setting sun

We had never before seen such subdued colours: the shades of cream, and gentle greens and browns reminded us of soldiers’ ‘desert battle fatigues’. As clouds and sun chased over the fields the colours glowed. We realised that we had at last entered Basilicata. For the next seven weeks we were going to be held under the spell of the Basilicata’s ever changing views, which one moment would be soft and feminine; and the next, quite harsh and masculine.

Are we nearly there yet - Road-up-to-Grottole - The end of the Journey — The road ran up – switching back and forth in sharp bends from the valley bottom to Grottole

Still marvelling on this we came abruptly upon the sign for Grottole. Our road climbed and turned round in sharp curves, and we were suddenly in this small hilltop town, where we found the central bar, and as arranged, waited to meet our host for the next seven weeks – Signor Giuseppe Riccardi!

Over drinks we toasted ‘Our First Journey at an end!’

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – All other images have been taken by Graham using an Olympus VR-370.

August 4, 2020

HELLO – PASTA & PORCINI

Jackie Usher Day trips, Travelling through Italian Ice Cream, Local restaurant, Sightseeing

No Border Guards at Gateway to Italy.

Within 40 minutes we were entering Italy, though we found no border and no guards to check our passports. You would hardly notice the tiny sign tacked onto the rock walls of the mountain tunnel: It read simply ‘Italy’ above the red, white and green flag. (That’s the EU for you! A world without borders would be a nice thing to aim for.)

hello to pasta & porcini - Novara-colonade — One of the many colonnades in Novara

hello to pasta & porcini - We would love some Ice Cream-Basilica-di-San-Gaudenzio-Novara — This tower could be seen miles away – up close it was very impressive

We were taking a route to revisit Novara, though I now see that Rivoli was right on our road. Since 2016 I have learned that Rivoli is a ‘Must – see’ place. We missed – but you need not. Novara is a mainly modern town, but beautiful, with spacious elegant streets and squares paved in cream marble and stone tiles – even the roadways. As we arrived a sudden cloudburst sent us scurrying from our car to the shelter of the gracefully colonnaded streets, which we followed towards our destination.

hello to pasta & porcini - -Novara-San-Salvatore — This gilded statue seemed to hover in the sunlight

We did not, sadly, this time find the square with the many fountains, but we did visit the beautiful Basilica di San Gaudenzio . It has an especially impressive four-tiered cupola by the famed architect Antonelli. (It is visible for miles).

A FINE BUILDING – GOOD INFO

It is a fine building with good info:

The interior, apart from its side chapels (most famous being those of The Guardian Angel, with beautiful frescoes – and another to The Good Death), is relatively empty compared to other Italian church interiors. But the pillars are attractive – painted in designs reminiscent of the contemporary Books of Hours. The inlaid marble floor is beautiful, too. Most striking is the almost hidden gold figure of a saint in flight. He is holding a banner. I believe him to be San Salvatore.

Other Special sights in Novara –I P Broletto’s arcaded building; the Cathedral of Santa Martia Asssienta (huge, impressive, amazing statues; Casa Bossi (a lovely Romanesque building – hidden gem with a great past).

NOT ENOUGH TIME IN THIS CHARMING CITY

As usual, we could not spend enough time in this charming city on this, our third visit. We had to find the E64 to Presezzo The total drive from Embrun takes 5 hrs; but mainly we suffered from the intense heat, since our car’s air-conditioning had been wrecked by a careless mechanic during the pre-holiday checkup– and not worth replacing in a 2005 vehicle.

Lap of Luxury.

DAY 10: 11th & 12th September:

PRESEZZO – FIRST OVERNIGHT STOP IN ITALY

This is where we really lucked in. I don’t think we could have afforded this hotel while booking a three-month tour – our one and only. Luckily it came up on Booking.com with a generous special offer, and so we were able to enjoy staying in the lap of luxury for two nights.

A most strikingly beautiful conversion from a former ancient farm, we enjoyed everything about our stay.

BATHROOM WORTHY OF A POEM

Our semicircular ivory and malachite-tiled bathroom was worthy of a poem. The truly spacious bedroom had a curtained sitting area with couch, full sized TV, large refrigerator, and ample cupboards. I threw myself down on the enormous bed, exhausted from journeying (why is sitting in a car passenger seat so exhausting, I wonder?).

We enjoyed having drinks brought to us on the terrace, and walking through the many varied rooms – each with a different decor. Modern sculptures and paintings were successfully blended with antique furniture in many of the dining rooms – all uniquely different. There was an elegant small indoor bar, where you could ‘dive’ down steps through a cave entrance to find the gym and indoor swimming pool (there were smaller versions of both outside in the grounds). This place was such heaven that we did not explore the area far.

Settecento Hotel Via Milano, 3, 24030 Presezzo, Italy.
(Our photos did not come out well, so please look it up for yourselves if interested).

Because of the heat we did not go to Bergamo on our free day in Presezzo, as planned.

hello to pasta & porcini - Presezzo-tour — The route we took on our day drip to Lago Isleo

Lazing by a Lovely Lake.

Instead, we visited the very small Lago Iseo – and took a boat to the island in the middle. It was beautiful, though we soon got tired of walking – it was so hot. So we went back to the gelato by the quay and had Italian ice creams, then caught the little boat back to make use of the great facilities in our hotel for a welcome rest. I would LOVE to go back to both the lake and hotel. Here are some photos:

hello to pasta & porcini - We would love some Ice Cream — We would love some Ice Cream

hello to pasta & porcini - -Lago-Iseo — All the Italian Northern lakes

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

THIERS - AUVERGNE'S VIEWS & VOLCANOES - Thiers-view-of-the-countryside-a

July 29, 2020

THIERS IN AUVERGNE – VIEWS & VOLCANOES

Jackie Usher Food, Local History, Restaurants Day trips, Fromage

DAY 6 & 7: 8th & 9th September:

Onward to the Auvergne.

THIERS - AUVERGNE'S VIEWS & VOLCANOES-Day-5-6a — Our third route takes us from Sorges to Thiers

BRITS OFTEN NEGLECT THIS SPECIAL REGION

Instead of exploring more of the Dordogne right then, we struck across to the East, making for The Auvergne, an area at that time virtually unexplored by Brits. I had planned a route to take in three pretty villages and the famous Mont D’Ore, but for some reason (perhaps Graham had a headache or felt tired, and it was so very hot in the car, which now lacked air conditioning) we drove straight to Thiers on the A89 (about a three-hour journey in pleasant green countryside, but with scant evidence that day of the famous ninety-six extinct volcanoes.)

We arrived early in the interestingly old, but in places, somewhat shabby town of Thiers; no doubt because it has been very, and still is, industrial to a degree; famous for its long history as Cutler Centre of all France. Indeed, the next day we admired countless shops with window displays of knives of all shapes, sizes and uses, and found the factory that produced our prized and famous Sabatier kitchen knives. Also, sitting in the ‘Place’ – a sort of square, we were intrigued to see a strange clock set into a cogwheel, and on the hour there was a grinding sound and a metal man gradually arose to stand on top, to bring down a metal rod and beat out a knife on his anvil. Apparently this animated figure was made in 2008.

THIERS - AUVERGNE'S VIEWS & VOLCANOES -Thiers-clock-a — This clock was a mechanical marvel – on the hour the figure of a smith rose from its top and beat out a knife

We Climb and Climb –

I had some misgivings when we tried to find our B&B. The address suggested that it was one of the very old, very tall houses climbing up a steep hill. We went up and up, and the once-elegant houses got ever dirtier and shabbier (no doubt due to centuries of smoke from the industry).

We finally found a designated parking area, and were lucky to squeeze in. We were also fortunate in that a rather smart car stopped just across from ours and a pretty woman got out. It turned out to be our hostess, Annie, who laughed when we said we were lost, and led us down across a patch of grass to a gate set in a wall with a modern roof just peeping above it.

THIERS - AUVERGNE'S VIEWS & VOLCANOES -View-from-Annies-a — The view from Annie’s was panoramic – this photo does not do it justice

I Become a Teacher?

Once inside, we went down several rustic stone steps into her terraced, pretty garden, which looked out over the open plain for miles and miles. She asked if we would like some tea – under the apple tree, or by the swimming pool? The apple tree looked shadier, and she joined us for real English tea and delicious cakes.

Presently the little Sealyham yapped excitedly as the garden gate opened and a young boy in school uniform bounded down the steps. Standing at attention he confronted me, bent from the hip and said ‘Good Afternoon. My name is Marc Hupel, and I am twelve years old. I am learning English at my school.’ He put out his hand. ‘How do you do?’

We shook hands solemnly, and I congratulated him on his good English, whereupon Annie insisted he fetch his textbook so that I could hear his homework, which I was glad to do. He was a charming lad, and his manners were excellent, although his mother assured me (and re-assured me) that, like every other boy his age he ‘has his moments’.

THIERS - AUVERGNE'S VIEWS & VOLCANOES - Annies-lower-terrace-a — This was the lower more informal of Annie’s terraces

We stayed for two nights with this lively and welcoming family in their beautiful home. The house immediately attracted, with its attractive, restful décor; with some particularly large, striking paintings in the drawing room; they had been the work of Annie’s mother. Annie was no mean painter herself, but what really impressed me were her charming sculptures.

She insisted that we move into the room she shares with her husband – apparently something about me compelled her to feel that the very reasonably priced room we had booked was not good enough for me! (I’m sure it would have been). Standing at the window we looked out over the city and several miles of countryside.

Later, we were introduced to Charlie, her husband, returned from a sad mission in Paris. The family took us to one of their favourite eating places on our first evening; an excellent Vietnamese restaurant. The next morning we sat down in their kitchen to breakfast with them, which is an experience we always enjoy when offered by B&B hosts abroad. Chambre de Grande Lumineuse.

THIERS - AUVERGNE'S VIEWS & VOLCANOES -view-from-Isserteax-a — On this hazy day it is hard to make out the humps of extinct volcanoes

Volcanoes & Value Grub.

THIERS - AUVERGNE'S VIEWS & VOLCANOES -Thiers-tour-a for the stop over day — The route of our tour for the stop over day at Thiers

Later, we had a lovely ride through the green Auvergne plain, dotted with 96 extinct volcanoes. We missed Mont D’Ore yet again, for some reason, but even so we revelled in the scenery, and the numerous colourful hot air balloons floating above us. When we searched in villages to buy lunch, we found everywhere closed, as it was a Sunday.
We finally found a tiny auberge on the road to some chateau or other. Two German backpackers were hanging around,obviously waiting for it to open.. We decided we’d better try this place.
We sat on one of the forms drawn up to long tables set under an awning. A fierce-looking older lady, dressed in the ubiquitous black, bore down on us.

“You cannot seet zere!” We were bewildered – the table was bare and empty. “You must seet ‘ere.” We were now out of the shade I’d selected, but Madame, seeing my annoyance, pulled down a sort of wall made of rattan.
“We would like to order”-
“In meenute. These first,” indicating the pair of German hiking boys. They grinned at us.
When we tried to tell Madame that we only wanted one course each she ignored us, and brought out a bottle of iced water, a carafe of red wine and fancy little ‘tasters’ of cream cheese and pate, on a sort of crisp rusk. Next came a lovely mixed salad, with flower heads atop.
“Please,” said Graham. “I saw fish on your menu. No fish for me. I don’t eat.”
She glowered at him. “Omelette, then. Fish or omelette.” She must have done all the cooking herself. However, when Graham’s omelette arrived he was absolutely poetic about it; and my fish was superb, with potatoes and a little medley of finely chopped vegetables.

THIERS - AUVERGNE'S VIEWS & VOLCANOES --Isserteaux-Restaurant-a — The restaurant at Isserteaux where we had a wonderful lunch

“Dessert?”
“I notice you offer cheese. Is it local?” asked Graham, the ‘awkward’ one.
“Two for cheese?”
“No – I’d like to try your dessert,” I said.

In due course a plate was put before me with about four desserts on it – a tart, a pie, a mousse and a small dish of golden baked custard – I cannot remember details. Graham had four generous chunks of differing cheese, and a selection of excellent crusty breads to work through. We shared everything, and somehow ate the lot. When we finally rolled off the long form, stuffed to our chins, the bill came to €14 each and that also covered the wine. What a place!
Restaurant – Bar – Tabac à ISSERTEAUX: www.aubergedemontjoux.com

The next day, in a specialist shop in Thiers (Fici, 7 Rue Conchette) we bought some of those famous cheeses of the region: A creamy blue – Fourment D’Embert, the orange-crusted Fournol; Rouge Poivre ‘Kululu’; Fromage Basque au Piment D’Espelette et Poivrons, Brebis and the most celebrated – the black-crusted St Nectaire. Some were hermetically sealed for sharing when we returned home. Then we were on our way to Embrun.

relaxing in the South of France

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – Most of the images have been taken by Graham, though in this blog Thiers clock, the Restaurant and the Auvergne village came from other sources.

tunnel-to-adventure-21-Argenton-sur-Creuse

July 28, 2020

COUNTRY ROUTE TO SORGES

Jackie Usher Ancient sites, Food, Getting to know the locals, Local History, Tourist Town coffee

DAY 4: 6th September:

DREADFUL BREAKFAST – EARLIEST START

After F1’s ‘Healthy breakfast’ of cornflakes, undrinkable coffee and a tiny, limp croissant (€7 each) that day’s country route to Sorges was the most scenic so far. The A20/A9 took us through the spectacular ‘Dordogneshire’ countryside. Majestic trees, gorges, cliffs, rivers – ooh, I could go on…

EARLY ENOUGH TO SEE BREAD PULLED FROM OVEN –

This was our earliest start by far. (7.30am). We found a misty back road, and soon reached a small village. School buses drew up in the square as we parked outside a tiny, old-fashioned bake house. We could see inside to where a man had just opened a small door in the wall. He then went back to where very long-poled ‘paddles’ were hanging from hooks in the high rafters. He selected one (the four-foot paddle made the whole tool measure at least sixteen feet.) He pushed it into the oven and started drawing out aromatic loaves of bread.

AND PASTRIES GRABBED BY HUNGRY SCHOOLBOYS

We stood in the entrance to a miniscule ‘shop’, hoping to buy one, but were suddenly bypassed by a large posse of schoolboys, who suddenly appeared with jam tarts and similar goodies in their hands. These were unwrapped, because they were wolfing them down as they streamed back to their buses, which promptly drove off. We gladly accepted small, very strong coffees in paper cups.

ARGENTON-SUR-CREUSE

SPECTACULAR VIEW FROM THE BRIDGE

This was the start of the spectacular scenery and romantic chateaux on this country route to Sorge. But what stood out for us was when, right on the road, we came upon the small town of Argenton-Sur-Creuse (as per my planned itinerary). Parking in a side street with houses of mixed age, we walked round for a bit, looking for the river, and Graham suggested taking the next turning. I was reluctant, feeling tired – but how wrong I was! We found ourselves by a lovely old bridge, and there were truly ancient houses rising straight out of the water on one side.

Country Route to Sorges -Argenton-Sur-Creuse-roof-tops — A patch work of rooftops at Argenton-sur-Creuse – another medieval town on route

The opposite bank had grander buildings and trees, and a golden statue of the La Bonne Dame winked in the sun from its perch atop a high bell tower.

GRAHAM TAKES PHOTOS – I FIND A HANDY BAR

While Graham took photos from the bridge I turned into the narrow, cobbled street and found a tiny bar. I yet again badly needed of a toilet – a tedious priority of advancing years.

AN UNUSUAL LOCAL BAR

I was intrigued by the bar, which was run by an ageing lady who by her makeup and dress must have been called Fifi. Why do I say this? Because there was something racy about the scarlet interior. The walls were smothered with photographs of bygone glories, including lots of famous jazz players. I could smell strong perfume as she ushered me through a bead curtain to a tiny but very clean loo in the back.

CAFFE-CLACKING

When I returned I was greeted in English by three mature lady shoppers enjoying their coffee. The hostess joined in whilst washing and shredding large lettuces that looked as if pulled from the ground ten minutes before.

Country Route to Sorges-Argenton-Sur-Creuse-Mill — The old mill sitting in still waters at Argenton-Sur-Creuse

Graham later joined us and we had an enjoyable morning break, drinking coffee and chatting. Two elderly gentlemen came in and gave us much local information and history.

SHADY RIVERSIDE WALK

Before getting back on the road, because we had ample time, we took a good walk along the shady, tree-lined riverbank in the opposite direction, and Graham took several photos, both looking back and over the river, but principally of two mills – one on each bank. (One is on the slider on the Home page.)

Country Route to Sorges-Thiviers — The high church tower at Thiviers that overshadowed our route

We got talking to a local lady walking her dog.

A HIGH-CLASS BOULANGERIE

This must have been the day we stopped to lunch in the dining room of a high-class boulangerie further along on the road – and very good it was. Because of the extreme heat we bought baguettes for our evening meal, feeling that possibly we could not face a large, beautiful dinner that evening. Into the cool box they went, to be eaten later with tomatoes and grapes.

The country road A9 took us through Thiviers, which had an enormous church tower, and an impressive chateau- seen from our car.

Memory then aided us in finding our special hideaway discovered two years before: Le Grain D’Art, Sorges.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

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July 26, 2020

Joan of Arc and the Belle Epoch.

Jackie Usher Art, Local History, Restaurants, Travelling through

DAY 2: 4th September:

REIMS TO NEMOURS:

We sped along the toll road to Nemours, our next night’s destination. We stopped at Reims for Graham to take some more photos of the particularly good depiction in bronze of Joan of Arc. She looks so very young and small to be managing her rearing horse outside the cathedral.

Joan of Arc - Le-Grand-Cafe-Reims with ‘Belle Epoch’ interior – all mirrors and gilt and red velvet seats. — Le-Grand-Cafe-Reims with ‘Belle Epoch’ interior – all mirrors and gilt and red velvet seats.

We also found our way back to the wonderful Le Grand Café. We had previously fallen in love with this famous landmark. It has retained its ‘Belle Epoch’ interior – all mirrors and gilt and red velvet seats. This time, because of cold, wet weather, we eschewed the so-French tables outside under the large umbrellas. In the plush interior we still had the waiters with their long black aprons scurrying to fulfil our every wish. I felt on that dismal day that their speciality, the moules, wonderful and plentiful though they always are, were just not filling enough. So I had a small, thick steak instead. It came rare, just as I like it, with a wonderful sauce.

Joan of Arc - Diners sitting out at La Grand Cafe - Reims — Diners sitting out at Le Grand Cafe-Reims

Then it was back on the road. To our eyes, we had found, so far, the top half of France to be rather flat and uninteresting. (Unless you want to visit the graveyards, or deviate to some historic towns).

I’m sure there are plenty more seasoned travellers to defend Normandy and Picardy, who can and probably will show much evidence to prove us wrong.

Try and Take this Road-

We took the A4 and A5 (avoiding the Paris ring road) to a place I’d located when researching with maps and ‘images’ the various possible routes for our trip.

MORET-SUR-LOING – EXCEPTIONALLY ATTRACTIVE

Moret-sur-Loing is a very beautiful small town, with a medieval arched gatehouse astride the bridge. In the past, strangers wanting to enter would be checked (and probably charged.) Off to the left was a charming little turreted house, reached by a small wooden bridge over a mini-weir – perhaps a mill-race. (See feature picture – me crossing bridge.)

Joan of Arc - The medieval town of Moret-sur-Loing was on our route — The medieval town of Moret-sur-Loing was on our route

Joan of Arc - Day 3-4 - Google map of our Route — Day 3-4 – Google map of our Route

We walked along one bank of the wide river and admired the ancient, half-timbered houses, more elaborate in their designs than most in England. Graham crossed over to the other side to take good pictures of them. Also the cob-and timber ‘offshoot’ dwelling that appeared as if hooked over the side of the bridge. It is visible in our picture above. As is usual in France, the noble old bridge was bedecked with flowers.

Extra Expense -Don’t be Caught Out-

We would love to see more of this place, but we got in our car and drove the 14km on A6 to where I’d booked a room in the Kyriad Hotel – Nemours. It was very difficult to find this hotel, even using Miss SatNav. When we did finally locate it we had to enter a toll road not on our route. In the morning those few yards cost us €6.60; so not such a good deal, after all! Though very comfortable, it was not as nice as staying in a private home, because the staff were impersonal. We declined paying €10 each for breakfast, knowing we could pick up good stuff at a boulangerie along our road.

If you are using that toll road, then it’s a clean, comfy overnight stop.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

Jackie's book - picture all askew

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tunnel-to-adventure-10-Bourges-gardens feature image

July 26, 2020

NEMOURS TO BOURGES – SCENIC ROUTE

Jackie Usher Art, Day trips, Food, Gardens Old Buildings, shopping

DAY 3: 5th September

1st STOP ON SCENIC ROUTE to BOURGES – ORLEANS

After finding some breakfast we really started our tour, taking the scenic route from Nemours to Orleans – then Bourges. Some low hills appeared, and we took an ‘A’ road through a few pretty towns. One had a picturesque abbey by a river. Children were bathing in the shallows beneath the bridge. We went through some attractive villages before stopping for coffee at Orleans – a truly beautiful city.

SCENIC ROAD - NEMOURS TO BOURGES - Orleans-narrow-street — A more ancient narrower street of Orleans

Apart from some romantic medieval lanes it was spacious, and paved almost entirely in white or cream stone tiles – even some of the roadways. The large central ‘place’ was dominated by an enormous statue of Joan of Arc in full armour; her warhorse pawing the ground. Magnificent!

SCENIC ROAD - NEMOURS TO BOURGES - Joan-of-Arc-Orleans — Joan of Arc dominated a large central square – Orleans

BANNERS OF JOAN’S KNIGHTS LEAD YOU TO THE CATHEDRAL

The wide avenue leading to the cathedral had a large banner of one of Joan’s knights hanging from each upstairs window. So – a colourful display before we reached the large circle with the cathedral in it’s centre. Orleans boasts a very clean and pretty cathedral, with sort of open stone ‘lanterns’ flanking the central spire.

SCENIC ROAD - NEMOURS TO BOURGES - -Orleans-Cathedral — Orleans Cathedral – first stop before carrying on our route

SCENIC ROAD - NEMOURS TO BOURGES - Joan-of-Arc-Orleans-stainglass — Joan-of-Arc-Orleans-stainglass

In the Cathedral.

Orleans Cathedral contains some truly exquisite old window glass.

Inside were two new ‘Rose’ windows on each side aisle. One had wonderful, truly golden intricate designs. The other was a melange of old shards. Both cast their colours onto the flagged stone floor of the aisle.

All around the nave were large, probably late Victorian windows depicting Joan’s life. A progression from humble shepherdess to crowning the Dauphin. The last, rather shocking window depicts France’s heroine stoic amid the flames. All around her British soldiers grin like snarling dogs. This, to a Brit, is very unfair, since a French friend has told us that it was a French bishop who handed her over to the Brits, and he ordered the burning alive.

THE COFFEE SHOPS OF ORLEANS – TOO MANY CUPS?

Dame Nature sent me scurrying into various coffee shops – one extremely grand; the ‘Ladies’ was worth a trip all to itself. Graham was a bit miffed about the cost of the espresso coffee, though – his third that morning, because of my needs. We explored a bit more and admired the very old timbered houses, taller than in England, with steeper sloping roofs and their often criss-cross exposed beams painted in bright colours. Then we passed over the impressive medieval bridge on our way to Bourges.

Do visit Orleans if you can – it is very rewarding

LA FERTE ST-AUBIN

SCENIC ROUTE TO BOURGES: Charming Chateau – Blissful Bistro

As we left there was a noticeable rise in temperature. Enjoying the sight of several chateaux, some old farms, and rivers bordered by trees, we made our way leisurely along the country road towards our next night’s stop. Presently, we came to Le-Ferte-St Aubin, a very small village. Standing back from our road was its really charming chateau. It was bordered by two straight channels of water decorated with ducks and gliding swans.

SCENIC ROAD - NEMOURS TO BOURGES - St-Aubin-Chateau — This Chateau was literally yards from the main road – so we did not deviate from our Route

SCENIC ROAD - NEMOURS TO BOURGES - St-Aubin-Bistro — The roadside Bistro where we had lunch -a mile along from the Chateau

Nearby was a small bistro with people eating and drinking on the veranda. We decided to scoot along there, as it was nearly two o’clock.

A mouth-watering aroma assailed our nostrils as we approached:
The board offered a choice of three starters, three mains and three desserts; also cheeses. One of the diners started chatting. His English was good, and after urging us to check out the chateau he insisted fervently ‘Order the chicken – it is VERY good’. And so it was – one of our ‘memorable’ meals.
Au Bistro Gourmand in Le-Ferte-St-Aubin– both bistro and village were small but special.

SCENIC ROAD - NEMOURS TO BOURGES - Vierzon — The timber house on the bridge at Vierzon

Afterwards, Graham took numerous pictures of the grand house – also named Le-Ferte-St Aubin, before pressing on.

VIERZON – A REMARKABLE BRIDGE-TOLLHOUSE

Being on the scenic route we did, however, pause in Vierzon (very picturesque by the river, with an exceptionally tall, thin, half-timbered house at one end of the bridge.) We stopped for a drink of citron presse and a walk round the lovely old town, despite the heat (about 35C even at 5pm) Remarkably, the sun had finally shown itself.

My biggest mistake; Booking an ‘F1’ outside Bourges.

I GUESS ‘YOU GETS WHAT YOU PAYS FOR’

This ‘hotel’ was certainly cheap. €29 bought us a tiny cubicle. However, I declined to shower in a stall used by about 400 truckers (our genial fellow guests, it appeared.) There was one lav and one shower per floor of about fifty rabbit-hutches. (Sorry, Graham says there was another lav tucked around under the stairs). The plastic-covered bed was lumpy and there were comings and goings all night. It was so hot we had to prop our door open, like every other ‘guest’. Many passed, giggling, returning from their night out. In comparison, the Kyriad at Coquelles, near Calais (of which more later), was terrific value despite somewhat rude staff.

DELIGHTS IN BOURGES

Heaven & Hell.

However, a quick trip that evening into Bourges itself was rewarding, especially the main doorway to the Cathedral in the picturesque ‘town historique’. It had a bas-relief of heaven and hell above the ancient, heavy wooden doors. Hell looked much more fun than heaven, which had saintly figures in faintly-coloured robes just standing about, whereas the inhabitants of hell were all naked and writhing…

SCENIC ROAD - NEMOURS TO BOURGES - Bourges-Cathedral-doors — Heaven and Hell and many doorways – Bourges Cathedral

There was an absolutely gorgeous garden at the back (see feature image). Though small, it had many statues. It was full of very bright flowers in plantings that were definitely un-British. Instead, we appreciated a French sense of design and unusual colour combinations that worked.

I walked between the beds sniffing the roses, but my sense of smell is diminishing these days. Regrettable, but not so bad as hobbling around in pain.

BOURGES’ EXCELLENT MUNICIPAL CAFE.

We were able to admire this haven while slaking our thirsts in comfort at the outdoor Municipal café (which mercifully provided toilets). The weather was very, very hot even in the evening – about 35C as I recall (95Faranheit).

BOURGES – HUMBLE MEAL – EXCEPTIONALLY GOOD SERVICE

Not very hungry, but quite tired, we decided not to look for a nice restaurant, but instead hurry back and get a snack at one of the ‘Industrial Park’ chains close to F1. After dispiritedly studying the bills of fare we ended up in a pizza-cum-sandwich bar called Patapain. Despite winding down in order to close in 20 minutes the staff obligingly heated us a pizza and said we could eat it there. They did not hurry us. We ended up buying some very healthy-looking pastries to take out. They were stacking chairs by now but were unfailingly pleasant and polite. I gave them a good review on Trip Advisor. Good service should always be acknowledged.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

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WIRRAL- M25 –FOLKESTONE

BUSY M6 IS NOT ALWAYS FASTEST

WRONG TURNING – GRAHAM OR MISS SATNAV?

M25 – REALLY, TRULY – AVOID THE RUSH HOURS!

FOLKESTONE

BRAVE SURVIVORS OF THE BATTLE OF BRITAIN:

I IMAGINE THE PAST GLORIES OF THIS ROAD

FOLKESTONE REMEMBERS

THE BRAVE BOYS OF THE RAF

IN FOLKESTONE THEY STILL CROCHET POPPIES:

OUR HOTEL – SAD SURVIVOR OF WAR

COURAGEOUS FOLKESTONE – A SUGGESTION:

STAYING WITH NEW FRIEND LUCIO

A MEMORABLE MEAL

MORE SMALL TOWN APPEAL – A MOORISH PALACE BY THE SEA

SMALL TOWN APPEAL – IS CASTRO APULIA’S SMALLEST RESORT?

LITTLE BOATS – LARGE LIZARDS & LOOMING TOWERS

SMALL TOWN APPEAL – BUYING CHRISTMAS GIFTS IN OTRANTO

SMALL TOWN APPEAL – IMPORTANT TREASURE – DON’T MISS THIS – 11thC MOSAIC

BELIEVE ME – WEEDS TASTE LIKE WEEDS

OSTUNI – APULIA’S ENCHANTING WHITE CITY

NARROW LANES – TEMPTING LITTLE SHOPS

VIVIEN AND I BEHAVE LIKE TEENAGERS

WE SEARCH IN VAIN FOR A REMEMBERED RISTORANTE –

POMPEI:

IN THE GRIP OF RAGING INFLUENZA

POMPEI – HOW WE FIRST MET OUR ITALIAN FAMILY

POMPEI – WELCOMED WITH WINE AND CAKES

POMPEI – GOING BACK IN ORDER TO SEE THE REST OF ANCIENT POMPEII

IN 2014 CONSERVATION OF ANCIENT POMPEII LED US TO HERCULANEUM

POMPEI – A ‘DROP-EVERYTHING’ WELCOME

2014 – WE ARE TOLD ‘YOU ARE OUR FAMILY’

HERCULANEUM

WE ‘TRY’ HERCULANEUM – AND FIND IT REWARDING

HERCULANEUM – FOSSILISED SKELETONS OF FLEEING FAMILIES

POMPEI – DRIVING AROUND VESUVIUS

POMPEI – A FEAST WITH OUR ITALIAN ‘FAMIGLIA’

– AND AN ASSORTMENT OF RELATIVES AND FRIENDS

POMPEI – BACK IN 2016 AGAIN – HUGS, KISSES AND COOKING:

POMPEI – WE RECEIVE TLC.

MARTINA NURSES ME – AND CANCELS OUR NEXT B&B’S

POMPEI – HOT DRINKS AND A LIGHT, NUTRITIOUS LUNCH

POMPEI – CAR REPAIRS – FAMILY FAREWELLS.

LEMON & ORANGES FROM THE TREE

POMPEI – IF THEY STILL HAVE SPACE – DO NOT MISS THIS SPECIAL B&B:

Our First Journey Ending.

DAY 14: 16th September: Grottole:

WE TURN OFF OUR ROAD – DESPERATE FOR FOOD!

A Walk on the Wild Side.

Fish, Spaghetti – and Surreal Art.

STRICTLY BUSINESS LUNCHES?

GRAHAM GET SPECIAL TREATMENT

GOURMET FOOD AT A REASONABLE PRICE

Sun-Baked Land of Basilicata.

No Border Guards at Gateway to Italy.

A FINE BUILDING – GOOD INFO

NOT ENOUGH TIME IN THIS CHARMING CITY

Lap of Luxury.

PRESEZZO – FIRST OVERNIGHT STOP IN ITALY

BATHROOM WORTHY OF A POEM

Lazing by a Lovely Lake.

DAY 6 & 7: 8th & 9th September:

Onward to the Auvergne.

BRITS OFTEN NEGLECT THIS SPECIAL REGION

We Climb and Climb –

I Become a Teacher?

Volcanoes & Value Grub.

DAY 4: 6th September:

DREADFUL BREAKFAST – EARLIEST START

EARLY ENOUGH TO SEE BREAD PULLED FROM OVEN –

AND PASTRIES GRABBED BY HUNGRY SCHOOLBOYS

ARGENTON-SUR-CREUSE

SPECTACULAR VIEW FROM THE BRIDGE

GRAHAM TAKES PHOTOS – I FIND A HANDY BAR

AN UNUSUAL LOCAL BAR

CAFFE-CLACKING

SHADY RIVERSIDE WALK

**M25 – REALLY, TRULY – AVOID THE RUSH HOURS!**

SMALL TOWN APPEAL – IMPORTANT TREASURE – DON’T MISS THIS – 11^thC MOSAIC