FAMOUS ROMAN MOSAICS
AMAZING FAMOUS ROMAN MOSAICS – LOVELY MEAL – TAORMINA – GREAT SMALL HOTEL
12th November:.
ANGER ENDS IN DELIGHT
We did have an adventure on our last day in Sicily, of course…
Despite debilitating influenza raging within us both, we were in any case faced with the long journey home. Our well-developed avidity to see everything of possible interest to us on our tours was difficult to shake off, even while fighting headaches and deep weariness.
“We’ve plenty of time to go and see this famous Roman pavement,” I pointed out in bed that morning. “All the guides say it is a must,” I pleaded.
Of course, Graham had to Google it to make sure he could trust my word, but then he readily agreed, because it was practically on our road, the SP15; and just 1hr 44 minutes away on the direct route to Taormina. There we would be staying overnight before catching the ferry. Our total driving time that day was estimated as 3 hours, 46 minutes.
So off we went, after stopping for Graham to snap an attractive sea of roofs belonging to the town of Trony that sat level with our road. Then we carried on down, deviating just a mile or less from the highway to find the turn-off to the Roman villa. This seemed to us to be at least another two slow miles along a narrow lane.
A RARE RIP-OFF FOR ITALY?
Finally we turned into a large car park. A man in a ticket office demanded money –a steep (for Italy) 11 euros each, before we even parked our car. In order to do this we had to pass two rows of booths selling bric-a-brac, tee shirts and souvenirs of varying quality. There was even (horror of horrors in Sicily, so famous for its cuisine) a hotdog stand. I had my walking stick, which was as well, because the ticket seller pointed up a steep track to a small building. His English was not good, but in any case he was brusque and dismissive in the extreme.
I STRUGGLE UPHILL FOR NOTHING
It was a challenging climb for me, especially in the heat (well over 30C). Panting, we finally arrived there, only to be told that the pavement was a further kilometre uphill. (The same narrow, roughish track.) When Graham asked if there was availability for invalid parking he got a curt ‘No’. So my darling asked if he could not drive me up the track.
“No.”
With my disability I could certainly not manage the long climb up to the villa – even using my stick. (Perhaps by now there is invalid access…)
RUDE STAFF – AND NEED FOR AN INFORMATION BOARD –
Fuming at the waste of our time Graham stalked down to the ticket hut and demanded his money back. We did not realise then – and there was no explanation – why those fees were so steep. They were very high for Italy. Since returning home I have seen pictures of the exceptionally fine, very detailed and bright mosaics. There are a great many, and they cost £18 million to clean up.
An information board in several languages with a few illustrations would have helped immensely towards our understanding – as would a more courteous and helpful staff.
Had we known more at the time, we would happily have paid up – could I have accessed the site
I have since seen even more pictures of these mosaics on Google – and they really are truly exceptional. I urge you to make the journey to go and see them if such antique art interests you. Here are a a sample taken from the site that I have put a link to and I hope they don’t mind us showing them here on our blog.
www.visitsicily.info › villa-romana-del-casale
GRAHAM IS SOOTHED –
Of course, we had no idea what we were missing. When Graham climbed back into our car he was so incensed that I had to shout at him to remind him that on the way in we had passed a very nice-looking trattoria. Grumbling at me, he hurled our car in to park in front of this place full of old amphora and other Roman memorabilia – and even in November – lots of lovely flowers. I hold that spotting abundant flowers outside an eating-place is a sign that you may expect good food. I’m rarely wrong.
IN PIAZZA ARMERINA – WE ENJOY OUR BEST MEAL IN SICILY
And so it proved. We enjoyed our best meal in the whole of Sicily. Our waiter was friendly, and spoke fluent English. He restored our sense of humour with his wit; especially his colourful opinions of the ticket seller down the road. It is only since finding the bill amongst my souvenirs that I realise he had cunningly inserted another 3 euros with no explanation – so study your bill. In the event, it was not enough to break our bank…
Trattoria La Ruota: SP90, 94015 Paratore , Piazza Armerina EN, Italy
So it was with full tummies, and in a far happier frame of mind that we drove the short way to the SP15. We finally coasted easily down the road to our final, friendly hostelry in Sicilia.
TAORMINA GARDEN HOTEL.
DAY 7:
LAST NIGHT IN SICILY –
I gave it 5 stars in my Trip Advisor review:
We booked this hotel for our last night in Sicily. (Seventeen days still left to return home in our car from our three-month tour.) This was one of the very best places we stayed in. Although the room was small, it was pleasant and quiet. We loved the gardens and the shoreline mini-bay, with rock boulders and little boats. It even had its own bar. We went down in moonlight – it would be idyllic for honeymooners.***
THIS COULD HAVE BEEN A MINI RITZ – GREAT SERVICE IN A SMALL HOTEL
The staff were all friendly and helpful – and THOROUGHLY professional. (The manager had risen in the ranks in the Dorchester Hotel, London.) He was not only charming and attentive; he showed real concern that Graham was not well. He would not allow him to carry any of our luggage, but himself brought all of it down the tricky steps from the small parking area just off-road.
We could have been staying at the Ritz instead of this very small, very affordable hotel. The food we had (both still suffering from ‘flu) seemed unadventurous – but then, we had little appetite, so disregard and judge for yourselves. Breakfast was good. We met nice people staying there – lots of Italians who probably go back and back… We Thoroughly recommend.
Next time, although our room was good, I’d love one on the lower level, which might have sea views…
Some Sicilian dishes:
Spaghetti ai ricci ,
Pasta alla Norma;
Pasta al Forno,
Pasta con le Sarde,
Parmigiana,
Polpo bollito,
Involtini di melanzane,
Spaghetti allo scoglio.
Street Food:
Arancina al burro,
Arancina alla carne,
Pane con la milza:
Sfincione Stigghiola ,
Pane con panelle e crocchè
Desserts:
Gelo di mellone,
Granita,
Sfince Cannolo
And so the next morning we said our fond farewell to Sicilia standing on the RETURN FERRY:
Very expensive for a 20-minute trip – but essential, of course…
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Images of the Mosaics and the Sicilian Dishes via the web.
