SICILY (SICILIA)
SICILY
Sicily is a beautiful island, where we stayed in four private B&B’s.
We spent a week in this much-serenaded island. As well as its charismatic coast and colourful towns, Sicily has many ancient Greek ruins. (We came across a complete Greek temple, all on its own on a hill – magnificent!)
DAYS 1 -3: (5th-7th November.)
‘SICILY IN LOVE’ OUR B&B IN TRIPOTELLO – WE LOVE IT
We stayed for our first three nights at ‘Sicily in Love’, in Tripotello. We had half a well-equipped, attractive holiday flat. (The other rooms were locked, but we had a kitchen and bedsit with a very good shower room with toiletries. Several cupboards gave ample storage.)
FRESHLY-MADE BREAD AND LEAF TEA FOR BREAKFAST
The friendly and helpful hostess was always there at breakfast to dispense fragrant fresh coffee (or leaf tea) however you liked it. She stayed to cut the still-warm crusty bread she made every morning. Unusually for Italy, there was always a selection of meats and fresh fruits, cereals and yoghourts as well as her home made cakes and pies. Something for everyone, from wherever in the world. Terms there are surprisingly cheap.
SICILY IN LOVE HAS A GREAT VIEW OF MOUNT ETNA
Another happy feature of our stopover was the short walk up the road to overlook Mount Etna. It looked surprisingly close (because so enormous a volcanic mountain.)
Another short walk, descending through steps and a footpath, took us into Tripotello itself, which had some lovely little shops. The only drawback was the narrow pavement each side of the very busy main road.
We highly recommend:
Sicily in Love, Via Degli Ulivi3, 98039,Taormina,Italy. 003 93 66 818 2134/+ website.
TRIPOTELLO – ‘EL FEUDO’ – APTLY NAMED
Our nice landlady suggested we eat at El Feudo restaurant down the road, and gave us their card. It took a little finding, but looked very impressive (and rather expensive). It stood on a hillock amid very well kept and extensive gardens. We went in, anxious to try the famous Sicilian food we had read about so often. It was a large, attractive room, and the tables were a mixture of the very long, and 2 and 4 seaters. All were laid with good linen and glassware, etc.
EL FEUDO – ‘WAITING’ WAITERS
We were in an almost empty restaurant. We did not mind, except that, bewilderingly, we were just left and left while the headwaiter lounged around, chatting to his staff. At last the sommelier came over and was curt in the extreme. We were told we could only order pizza as they were expecting a large party.
EL FEUDO – GRAHAM’S DINNER IN HIS LAP
The next night we arrived at just past 8pm and ordered a full meal. The service was unnecessarily slow. When it did come the plates were slammed down in front of us (a plate of spaghetti in a tomato sauce landed in my husband’s lap.) Our plates held nothing like the attractive food other people on the large party tables were getting. We could not understand why, as we always make a point of being friendly and polite.
El FEUDO – ONLY WANT LARGE PARTIES?
When we came to pay, the owner of the restaurant was taking the cash. He asked ‘Did you enjoy your meal?’ So my husband explained how it had been ruined by deliberately rude service. The owner just shrugged. Our conclusion was that this restaurant was only interested in taking large parties and found it an inconvenience to serve couples. In our view, small parties would be wise to Give it a wide berth.
TAORMINA.
6TH November:
TAORMINA – YOU WIND AROUND TO THE TOP – AND THEN SOME
Whilst in the area we visited Taormina, which is altogether delightful – and so a tourist-trap. It was busy enough even in early November. One can only imagine what it’s like at the height of the season if you wished to leisurely explore. The top town, the old bit, has to be reached by a special bus after you have already wound your car round the corkscrew mountain. We had to park our car and with other visitors, wait for the bus to take us to the main square. This was predictably full of tourist shops.
TAORMINA – ARABS, ARTISTIC SWEETS & ANCIENT GREEKS.
Taormina Old Town is very attractive and colourful, with many shops selling majolica ware – not least the dramatic ‘Arab’ and ‘Royal’ heads in bright colours. They look great adorning garden steps in the area – but we declined from buying one to bring home. We knew all too well how many of these local delights can look really tawdry back in grey old England… Besides, they were understandably not cheap.
We did buy many gifts, though, at an extremely posh confectioners’ selling the most amazing sculptures of all sizes in chocolate and marzipan…
WE ADMIRE SOME ‘HIGH CLASS’ SOUVENIRS
Even in November people were shuffling past doorways surrounded with colourful large platters. Shop windows were stuffed with copies of ancient amphora, Greek jugs and the like. And always those Arabic or King and Queen ‘heads’, from tiny little ones to fit into a backpack or suitcase, right up to twice life size. Some were garish and horrible – proper ‘Tourist souvenirs’. But there were some very stylish ones in highly polished jet black – or ditto white – and others that had been exquisitely hand-painted. I must say, I was very tempted at times, but Graham has a horror of being thought ‘cheap’. We certainly could not afford the most artistic versions. Many sell for well over €2,000.
We turned from the shops and joined the throng pushing through the archway to the ‘Citta Antica’. Our little crowd was immediately transported to an enchanted, timeless world.
TAORMINA – A LAND OF ROMANCE – OR A HOLLYWOOD FILM SET?
We still had to climb, sometimes by steps, but there were always pretty little streets off to our right. Many ended in distant vistas. Suddenly, through an archway just to our left, a flight of steps led down into quite a large, hidden Roman garden.
TAORMINA – A MOST ARTISTIC FLIGHT OF STEPS
We stopped to admire this short street of pretty, small hotels, their balconies dripping greenery. One at the end was almost obscured by abundant bougainvillea.
Then we ascended a truly artistic flight of grey stone steps. At intervals were platforms where exotic palms and the like were planted in square parterres. These spaces were interspersed with seats, and drinking fountains that had ancient faces carved on them. I rested while Graham took photographs. We passed little side roads with many attractive restaurants. Looking down the narrow, cobbled ways we enjoyed the views out across the bay that seem to appear wherever you walk. Very touristy, even in November, but truly beautiful.
Then we had still more climbing, having to sadly resist the eager waiters standing at the top of each winding lane, trying to tempt us to their restaurant. I felt so mean to keep saying ‘No’ to each in turn… At last we were in a street practically at the top. Some really tempting shops this time, and then street stalls selling favours and souvenirs outside the entrance to the Ancient Greek Theatre.
TAORMINA GREEK THEATRE – FREE ON SUNDAYS
Wondering how much it would cost we approached the ticket booth, to be told ‘It is Sunday – so is free’. This often happens in Italy, but our itinerary does not allow us to be mean foreigners, and plan all our visits this way.
TAORMINA GREEK THEATRE – BACKDROP FRAMES AN ENTIRE COASTLINE
The highlight of that day’s trip was this ancient Greek theatre right on top of the mountain. Superb views of the coast are framed by the pillars that had been part of the backdrop of the apron-style stage. I wonder if you can still see ‘Antigoni of Thebes’ and the other Ancient Greek Classics performed there, as they undoubtedly were, 2,500 years ago.
TAORMINA GREEK THEATRE INTACT – STILL IN USE REGULARLY
It was, surprisingly, a very large, wide stage. One could imagine crowd scenes and dances being performed. All the semicircular seating is still there, in good condition. We also saw into the dressing rooms. The acoustics were amazing. You could quite easily make out the chatter of people the other side of the very large arena.
TAORMINA GREEK THEATRE – SIT WITH GHOSTS
I was aware of covering ground where Ancient Greeks trod two thousand four hundred years ago. Looking up, I saw that day’s crowd filing along the top to descend. Many took a rest, sitting in the very tiers that would have been filled with enthusiastic, cheering people draped in togas and cloaks. I could almost, ALMOST see their ghosts, and those of the Romans who followed them … ***
THE GLASS HOTEL
There is a most attractive ‘crystal’ hotel as you leave the theatre. It has a leafy garden and must command superlative views. It looked rather expensive, as you’d expect. I’m afraid Graham had to drag me away from looking down at the smart people entering through the glass corridor. I was hungry, and wistfully wondered what it would be like to sit in the transparent dining room. It was all windows. They overlooked that fabulous coastline far below. It stretched to the level-appearing horizon.
BILLY BUNTER’S HEAVEN – WE BUY FANCY SWEETS FOR LITTLE FRIENDS
We walked along past the stalls until we found ourselves in the ‘top street’. It was full of shops selling high-class ceramics and fashionable clothes. I insisted on looking in every window, until we found ourselves in front of a very special confectioners’ shop that we had passed previously. I cannot remember the name of this very classy shop, except that the exterior framing the windows was dark blue, like the smart little bags our purchases were placed in.
Apart from the finely-detailed little baskets of marzipan fruits we bought for the kids there were amazing, large sculptures in chocolate. Also, ‘Hansel and Gretel’ houses fashioned from a mixture of sweets. I wished I could have come here as a greedy child… All I can give you is this website to provide you with a clue:
https://www.lagazzettaitaliana.com/food-and-wine/7794-sicilian-marzipan-frutta-di-martorana
WHAT CAME UP – MUST GO DOWN
To get back to the large piazza where the bus would come to take us back to our car would take about twenty minutes of leisurely walking. On the way we passed an artist displaying life-size cut-outs of tourists who eagerly posed for him. We decided that we would have no use for effigies of ourselves!
We were tired when we got back to our B&B, and still had not seen all the sights of Taormina – but we were glad we had spent a day in this very colourful, uniquely Sicilian resort – and thankful that it was out-of-season!
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
