We Fall in Love with Padua
Italian Ice Cream Cools us Down.
DAY 11: 13th September: MESTRE:
We fall in love with Padua, although on this short three-day trip we explored four centres.
Everyone who visits Venice exudes rapture with that place and we were making a return visit. To save money we stayed just outside in Mestre, a little town on our road. We had booked a night there online, choosing ‘B&B Rivo Alto’ 821 in Mestre. Because the direct route was very short, we went via Piacenza. Some impressive buildings were glimpsed briefly through its ancient city walls on a previous Italian holiday.
We had always vowed to go back and explore Piacenza further, but somehow, because of parking restrictions, we walked for miles without finding an entrance to the ancient walled centre. However, we followed the very large museum round to the back, where we were able to sink onto shaded steps, and watch as an Art exhibition was being prepared for assembly inside.
Graham took a photograph of an enormous Greek amphora that stood beside one of the doors. Despite many visible repairs, its beauty was impressive. We became hungry, and mindful of passing time, so left the centre to explore on another holiday.
Heat bounced off the pavements as we plodded four streets back to our even hotter car.
Reaching Mestre, we had great difficulty finding our guest house. We were rescued by the proprietor of the excellent artisan gelateria in the town, who gave us some of his wonderful ice cream and personally phoned the owners, who were at work! They had forgotten all about our booking. To be fair, it had been made months before.
We found the house tucked down a track-road right beside a major highway. When we at last met the owners they plied us with wine, and went to buy special foods for our breakfast. We were totally won over by their charm and concern for us, and we loved our artistically decorated bedroom: So we are happy to recommend this small, personal B&B.‘B&B Rivo Alto’ 821 Mestre.
We had planned to re-visit Venice that evening, and also the next morning, as we knew we would arrive in Mestre mid-afternoon. But by that time it was too late, and after just looking up the restaurants in the town we have no memory of eating out. We guess we felt the heat and probably brought out uneaten rolls bought for lunch in one of the many excellent pasticcerias, and washed them down with water.
WE FALL IN LOVE WITH PADUA – IT’S SOMEP’N ELSE!
DAY 12: 14th September:
In the morning we made a decision: We actually decided to skip Venice this time and leave it for a Bargain 4 Nights (they do come up) when we’d maybe actually stay on the Grand Canal. Instead, we decided we would drive to our next stop via Padua, which is less visited, but has some famous mosaics.
Tired and dejected, we drove back to Padua, and immediately were so delighted that we spent almost the entire day there. It’s absolutely wonderful; practically ALL historical, and spacious because it was always a very rich city.
The beautiful old buildings are still in the centre of daily life, and treasures abound, particularly in St Anthony’s Cathedral; so much gold, so many wonderful sculptures and paintings – it was all just TOO much to take in. We could not understand why Padua is not a major tourist destination – but were grateful for the fact. We plan to return and stay in Padua some day.
There were two very colourful markets in piazzas surrounded by medieval buildings (one had the large covered market shown above)… One stall had a very large display of the delicious porcini mushrooms we have grown to love. I stood by, enjoying the aroma, and wished that for once we were self-catering!
We walked down many beautiful old streets, eventually finding ourselves in an enormous grassed arena with Roman statues, and bridges over a little stream. It was again a very hot afternoon, so we plonked ourselves at a bar and bought lemon pressè, and ate a light salad lunch before walking back to our car – but had to stop for yet another Kaffé (espresso) at another nice little bar-cafe on the way, to sit down for a bit, (perhaps you can guess why).
Then a short journey on the coastal road (via Ravenna) to the start of the mountains of The Marche, and:
SAN MARINO.
HOTEL ON TOP OF A MOUNTAIN
This Independent State within Italy (Yes! Anyone remember the British film ‘Passport to Pimlico’?) has a charming castle atop a very high, pointed volcanic ‘plug’, and we stayed in the Hotel Joli. Although habitually taking coach parties, we two were warmly welcomed and given all help by the receptionist. Considering the position (just under the castle), we had a surprisingly spacious and attractive room at a very reasonable price. I ticked mid-range, but some may consider it ‘budget’.
In the morning the breakfast was also above the average for a self-service. The parking was no problem and free, as we have a blue badge. I can thoroughly recommend this hotel. It is attractive and has retained the personal touch.
Room Tip: We were at the back with a glorious mountain view. (We arrived at sunset; and sunrise was just as impressive.) No noise to disturb us, and staff attention to detail formidable…
Text by – Jackie Usher SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
Thanks to Google maps – All other images have been taken by Graham using an Olympus VR-370.
