EXPLORING THE SASSI
FIRST A COFFE BREAK
It was mid-morning by the time we retraced our way back through the ravine to start exploring the Sassi. The day had become rather warm, and so were we after climbing up through the narrow alleyways and steps until reaching the ‘Teardrop’ in the Piazzetta Pascoli on the Via D Ridola. It was a large Bronze sculpture in front of the Museum of National Medieval and Modern Art – Palazzo Lanfranchi. This is where I knew we’d find good coffee and ciabatta – not that I’ve ever had bad coffee in Italy. Leaving as we did before 7.00am we’d had nothing more than an espresso and a couple of biscuits, and the bottles of water we’d carried with us.
EXPLORING THE SASSI CAVEOSO
After a little rest we started off again, towards the really ruinous section of the Sasso Caveoso. The Museum was a good place to start to explore this area. To the right side of the building is a railed terrace overlooking the Sasso, and from there a set of steps led down into cool, meandering passageways.
It wasn’t long before we had passed from the restored part of the city, where the buildings were actually lived in, or used for holiday lets. Now we found ourselves in the more interesting untouched part, because we could glimpse at how these buildings were constructed, and how most were facades in front of rough-hewn caves.
Some of the paths we walked on were the actual roofs of buildings below us. There was one building that had partially collapsed, showing that the interior ceiling was made of a stone arch, which had supported the pavement on top.
The further from the centre we went the more degraded the buildings became, with some areas completely roped off. There was an arrow pointing to the Convicinio S Antonio. After a gentle climb we came upon an elegant portal with an arch that led into a rectangular courtyard, onto which four rock-churches faced. Unfortunately, the gate was closed. We had to satisfy ourselves with reading a notice, and peering through the barred gate. Later I Googled the Convent, because we were both intrigued by its age, and how well-cared for it looked amongst the ruins.
EXPLORING THE SASSI’S CHURCHES
The first church after the entrance arch was once known as the ‘Chiesa di San Primo’, but is now commonly referred to as the Church of the TEMPE CADUTE after the name given to the entire district, which was continually at the mercy of rock falls.
An opening on the left leads to the Church of Sant’Eligio. Next to it, also known as the Annunziata, is the Crypt of Sant’Eligio. The crypt is dedicated to SANT’ELIGIO, who is regarded as the guardian saint of domestic animals. He was much venerated in the past by peasant and agrarian communities such as the Materani. The peasants, shepherds and herdsmen used to bring their mules, horses and oxen into the piazzetta at crack of dawn on 1st December, his feast day. They would entreat his protection for their lifeline – their animals – as they circled the column with its statue of St. Eligio that stands in the square, by the church.
Then there are the Crypt of San Donato & the Crypt of St. Anthonioy. There was a huge amount of information to be had, so I’ve left a link. It’s worth looking at this site before you visit the convent. Unfortunately, we went back twice while we were staying there and never found it open – and could not find out who to contact to get a visit.
http://www.sassiweb.com/matera-podcast/sasso-caveoso/convicinio-s-antonio/
I also recommend that you Google images of the convent.
A FEW MORE IMAGES OF THE RUINS IN THE SASSO CAVEOSO
WORLD’S BEST ICE CREAM
It was early afternoon when I drove Vivien drove back to the farm and disturbed Jackie on her day off. To be honest, she was pleased to see us, as she’d spent it catching up on laundry and general cleaning of the flat. When I suggested going back to Matera to stroll around the top part of the city – and especially when ice cream was mentioned, there was no contest. We had a quick clean up and then all clambered into the Golf and trundled back to Matera for that stroll and ice cream.
I actually chanced my arm and found a parking place on the Via D Ridola just behind the Museo Lanfranchi. It is so much easier when you have a Disabled blue badge.
On the Ridola we bought our ice creams from a popular Gelato, reckoned by many to be one of the best in Italy: Il Vizi Degli Angeli Laboratorio di Gelateria Artisanale. Jackie urged Vivien to try the fresh fig variety, which we so far do not get to taste in England (I don’t know about London, but it’s not obtainable in our neck of the woods.) She enthused about i,t just as we had. With them in hand, we licked and strolled through the streets full of interesting little shops, and the two elegant but still historic piazzas at the top of the Sassi. There we could look out over the alleyways and stairs we had explored in the morning, and also window-shop.
WORLDLY ELEGANCE
At the Piazza Vittbrio Vento we sat on a sunbaked wall to rest our feet and people-watch. The place was a swarm of activity. There was a wedding party posing for photographs nearby, (because at this particular spot there was a balcony with a spectacular view over the Sasso Barisano with the Cathedral on the skyline). Visitors made way for the bride and groom to pose by the low railing, and then for their party as well. We were all riveted, staring at one young woman who looked particularly striking in pants striped yellow and red, topped by a lime-green bolero jacket. She had a most elegant haircut. (Jackie was convinced I would have a photo of her. I don’t know why…)
Maybe she was a professional model; she was certainly the most eye-catching woman in the Piazza, and we all agreed ‘she knew it, too.’
AS DARKNESS FALLS –
TUMMIES RUMBLE
As the sun turned a hot red and sank in the sky, we watched as dusk laid its clocked hand over the city, and one by one, lights in the Sassi twinkled on. It was only when I voiced that I was hungry that we all realised we’d not really eaten much all day. And at ‘Let’s go to Peppino’s’, Vivien was heard to say ‘Who’s Peppino?’
Half an hour later we were in Miglionico, sitting in Peppino’s dining room, almost dribbling from the smells coming from his kitchen. Vivien was looking around her so I told her ‘Don’t worry, there is no menu.’
I can’t remember what was served, only to say that nothing was left on our plates. Peppino’s bountiful, simple, quality fare seemed a fitting end to our day finding out about the harsh life that had been lived by peasants, where they made best use of the very basic food they could produce by their own efforts.
This blog written by – Graham Usher.
Most other blog text by Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Design and Photographs and occasional text by – Graham Usher.
