BEFORE SAYING GOODBYE TO LOLLY
MATERA AGAIN- LOLLY SAYING GOODBYE
Monday, 26th September:
BURNING A HOLE IN HER POCKET
Lolly would be saying goodbye to us the next evening. Just time on her last day for saying goodbye to Matera. She still had most of her spending money left. It was burning a hole in her pocket. She kept saying she wanted to treat us, so on her last day I suggested that she take it easy visiting the posh squares and streets at the top of Matera. Perhaps we could go for lunch to a restaurant recommended by our Matera guide Andrea – he of the sexy lips!
She readily agreed and certainly enjoyed the lovely piazzas and the fashionable people strolling around. Then we sought and found Andrea’s recommended restaurant.
THE RISTORANTE ‘900’ – EVERY MEAL A FEAST
The ‘900’ is not cheap. It’s classy, but oh so friendly – and the food is great, too. It was the first time we had tasted those long, thin sweet red peppers that come dried only from nearby Senise. They are then brushed with olive oil and crisply grilled, or flash-fried in olive oil. They come hot to the table. A truly local delicacy: Delicioso!
We were greeted by the kindly owner, who explained all the dishes, and later Ferdinando, the chef, came out to be congratulated on his superb local food, presented with artistic flair. I immediately remembered Toto in Cinema Paradiso – Ferdinando looks somehow both like that cute kid and the grown young man. We met his wife, who prepares very pretty starters and desserts. (Graham and I returned twice before we left the area.)
WE EAT DONKEY – AND ENJOY IT!
This time we had roast donkey with porcini – wonderful, tender, succulent meat – neither strong tasting nor sweet as all our English friends ask, their noses wrinkled… They have no idea how delicious!
BARI: THE HISTORIC & THE SMART MODERN
27th September:
AN ICONIC CITY
We went back to Bari the next afternoon in order to see Lolly off on her plane that evening, and were able to at last explore the very beautiful old part of the town with her.
She enthused on the marbled tiled alleys leading into quaint squares; all of which held surprises – in one case the ancient Duomo (cathedral).
CHEESE & PASTA
We passed a tiny, old-fashioned neighbourhood grocery store, and Lolly insisted that she must buy a certain cheese requested by her sister-in-law, so we went in and had fun trying to get across to the owners just which exact village cheese had been specified. But after much laughter and gesticulations they produced it, by which time Graham had found some sweets and nougat he desired.
HANDS FLY MAKING ‘LITTLE EARS’
We left with quite a full carrier bag, but I cannot remember what was in it. Going down the street we felt compelled to stop and watch several older women working hard at little tables, making Piccole Orecchiette, the ‘little ears’ pasta for which the area is famed. Their hands flew as they pressed their thumbs into the little scraps they had shaped – but they were not nearly as fast as a young lady whose hands moved in just a blur; her perfectly formed ‘little ears’ piling up as we watched.
We were soon to discover just how delicious and soft those ‘little ears’ are in a good pasta sauce.
LOLLY GETS EXCITED
At Giuseppe’s request we made another visit to Ikea, restraining Lolly, a typical generous American, from buying stuff for the flat he rents out. She is all heart, and just loves to give. We had to keep reminding her that we must allow time for her to catch her plane back to Frankfurt.
CAPERS IN THE AIRPORT
When we got to the airport our irrepressible friend was so euphoric she started showing off to others waiting in ‘the wheelchair lounge’. The Italians looked on, amused and bemused, as she sashayed around singing ‘Red Hot Momma’ songs from her native New Orleans. Of course, as Brits, Graham and I felt somewhat embarrassed and apologetic, in which we were probably quite wrong. But our wretched upbringing forced us to try and quieten our exuberant little friend who took no notice at all. Luckily, at 78 she has the same appeal as puppies and kittens and very small children…
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
