PERFECT B&B – SAINT SAVINIEN
8th – 10th May 2018
A BIT HARD TO FIND – READ THE INSTRUCTIONS
Miss SatNav sent us past Saint Savinien and onto a small hamlet – a maze of huddled houses bisected by small lanes that were little more than tracks. It kept stopping us outside a bungalow that was clearly not our destination. In the end Graham used his mobile phone to dial the number on our confirmation document – he would not listen when I tried to read the detailed instructions that Valerie had sent. (It is a truth universally acknowledged that – Men always know best!!!!)
WE MEET OUR HOST
We found without further trouble the white house with the navy blue door and window trims – very smart. As our car drew up the door opened and out stepped a large man with an even larger grin. He rubbed his right hand down his somewhat shabby tee shirt, and thrust it out to us.
“Welcome,” he said – “I’m John,” and it was clear that our new host was yet another Englishman. He offered to make tea, but I needed (you’ve guessed it) so he said “I’ll take you to your room.”
WE FIND LUXURY IN THIS B&B
There was a steep little staircase to climb, and I started to panic, but we crossed a short landing, and he threw open a door. We were in a very spacious, beautiful room, full of colour and containing a wide, long bed. There was a single bed, too, tucked into a sort of ingle on the opposite side of the room. Both had beautiful, expensive-looking covers. Good paintings adorned the walls and there was a very nice desk beside the door.
OH BOY – A BATH I CAN LIE IN:
The bathroom was next-door. It appeared almost as large. I was delighted to see a large corner bath with seating-steps. I had found difficulty in the last couple of years in getting out of our standard bath at home. Lying down in it, as I longed to do, had been out of the question. With Graham’s help – maybe even without, this pleasure could be mine again for the two nights we were booked in.
PLENTY OF LARGE, THIRSTY TOWELS
As I took in the rack of large, thirsty towels I found myself wishing fervently that I’d booked more nights – allowed us longer to enjoy this luxurious accommodation.
AN EYE FOR ART
More was to come. John showed us more of the house, which was filled with works of art collected over the years; paintings both ancient and modern, some very nice sculptures – and a good sprinkling of amusing mementoes, some of them appearing to come from the United States. These were explained when John led us through the kitchen to drink our tea in the large conservatory that shielded it from the bright, hot sun outside. Before us stretched a long, tree-shaded lawn.
– AND OTHER SIMILARITIES
“Val’s out there, planting vegetables”, said John. “She’s vegetarian. Oh – I might mention she’s American – ten years older than me.”
Was this said to put us at our ease because of our age difference? We’d ceased to think about it years ago, until forced to by my recent sudden onset of severe breathlessness and consequent loss of energy.
“Before we go and find her, follow me.”
LOUNGE WITH LONG, SOFT COUCHES – AND OPEN FIRE
We discovered that a large lounge was at our disposal (really, a lounge – long couches on three sides around an open fireplace; beside it a large, state-of-the-art TV.) Obviously, they were used to more guests; probably inviting in the tenants of their two gites.
A MEZZANINE GALLERY
From one corner a classy wooden staircase led up to a gallery where we spotted what might have been another seating area – or possibly an open mezzanine bedroom. I longed to go up and look. Perhaps I’ll get the chance, because we have made up our minds that if at all possible, we are returning next spring for a week in this lovely place. There is a ground-floor en-suite that will suit us perfectly.
NOTE; We have since been told by John and Valerie that they no longer offer B&B in their home; but are increasing their self-catering gites. I am confident they will offer the same high standard.
WE MEET VALERIE – WELL ORGANISED AMERICAN
We crossed the lawn to meet Valerie, busy planting her little patch of veg. She is tiny; smaller than me. (I’m 5 feet tall and considerably chunkier, though not obese.)
Valerie is a sylph – she looks almost frail, but it soon became clear that this lady is a dynamo of energy, and very, very organised. She is responsible for the bookings – and probably much else around the spacious house.
JOHN – GARDENER AND PHILOSOPHER
John, we learned, is constantly caring for and developing the nearly three acres of grounds; and, we think, managing the gites. We recognised immediately that they are ‘our sort of people’. Shared values, such as ‘Life is for Living – not existing’; and that amassing a store of good friends is more rewarding than stacking up a bigger pile of shekels than the next guy, had found us new friends.
“If I’m not enjoying what I’m doing,” said John, “then I stop doing it. Life’s too short.”
We benefited hugely from the delightful fruits of their philosophy – their relaxed attitude that nevertheless embraced much hard work, and the generous sharing of their great good taste in the short time we stayed with them. This couple do not stand on ceremony, but they offer their particular take on perfection to be enjoyed by all their guests.
www.leruisseaudanslemarais.fr/welcome/
THE CAFÉ BY THE RIVER
Valerie and John suggested some places where we could eat that first evening. The ‘café’ by the river had pleased a lot of their guests, and was inexpensive compared to the rest.
We ended up there that evening and had a seat looking out over the water watching children splashing and fishermen doing what they do – which appears to be very little…
That evening we had a very good meal – particularly my seafood starter, which really would have been sufficient in itself.
Les Quais de Taillebourg: French, Brasserie, Creperie and Bar. Route de la Brossardiere, 17350 Taillebourg, France. +33 5 46 91 73 28 Website
9th May:
TIRED IN THE HEAT
We woke up still feeling a bit tired after our full day with stops for sightseeing the day before; and that very late night on the 7th. The weather had been consistently hot for the past week, reaching 93 degrees Fahrenheit – possibly throughout our drive down with no Aircon. That’s a bit hot for us particular Brits. We like to feel a cool breeze on a nice warm day…
I can remember only that we were constantly seeking shade and cold drinks in this period. We have consistently found hotter weather in the middle of France.
WE FIND KINDRED SPIRITS
So I think we just washed before going down to breakfast at nine am, though I was longing to get into that bath (as was Graham.) The plan was to go up after breakfast; but our hosts joined us in the conservatory, and we could not stop chatting; we all had so much in common.
JOHN – KING OF THE TRACTOR
Graham went off to accompany John on his mini-tractor, with which he cut the grass of the extensive lawns. (This sit-on-mower was his pride and joy. Valerie was ‘strictly forbidden’- and Graham, if he’d hoped for a ‘go’ was thwarted.)
WALLOWING IN THE BATH
Still, my husband was gone a couple of hours; but I didn’t mind. Valerie and I chewed the fat. Ex-hippies both; she in California, (though if memory serves I believe she grew up in the Mid-west. Forgive me, please, Valerie, if this is all entirely wrong.)
I worried that I was keeping her from her ‘duties’, but she assured me that they take life very much as it comes. This was an object lesson in avoiding stress and still achieving super-efficiency.
Graham returned and we both made full use of that lovely double bath, and it’s equally abundant shower. Clean and refreshed, we sallied forth to find a light lunch and explore a bit more of St Jean d’Angèly. (We had not gone into the centre the night before).
BACK TO ST JEAN D’ANGèLY
It took only eighteen minutes to go back and discover the centre of the old town. The buildings in the main ‘place’ were mostly of the stately Napoleonic era, mixed with tall houses of simpler aspect. Many had those typical lavender window shutters.
A COOL DRINK – BUT NOT FROM THE FAMOUS WELL
In the middle of the ‘road’ a café had set many shaded tables. We enjoyed a cool drink there, before I ventured down to look at the curious and ornamental old water fountain (or well?). It is now empty, but contains a curious contraption – a sort of wheel is set into it. Perhaps it was once used to bring up water – in any case, Google searches reveal nothing.
ST JEAN D’ANGÈLY – PICTURESQUE ROOFTOPS
Graham left me under the awnings set down the middle of the street while he climbed long, steep steps to explore views from the top of the town.
He came back full of enthusiasm, and I spent at least ten minutes peering into his point-and-shoot camera at the tiny, sometimes indistinct pictures of rooftops, far-extending views and those special twin towers, which looked less hideous than they had at close quarters the day before.
– AND LANDMARK CLOCK TOWER
A further walk around took us down some medieval streets to the landmark clock tower, which revealed itself atop a high arch, which rose above the roofs of the old, very tall, three-storied, elaborately half-timbered houses.
When we had satisfied ourselves that we had not missed any more significant landmarks, we got back in our car and headed for Saintes, about one hour’s drive away.
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
