MONOPOLI – MARTINA FRANCA – VIVIEN’S FAREWELL
MONOPOLI – MARTINA FRANCA FOR VIVIEN’S LAST DAY
Vivien’s stay with us was drawing to a close. We wanted her to see historic Martina Franca. Also the very high Roman sea wall still in its entirety at Monopoli, which we had discovered in 2011. It has a most attractive harbour front.
We decided that if we left in the morning there would be time to visit both towns before we drove to Brindisi to see her off on her mid-evening ‘plane home.
VIVIEN SAYS GOODBYE TO GIUSEPPE AND MASSERIA MAZZAPEDE
By the time we had waited for Giuseppe to arrive at the villa so that Vivien could say her goodbyes and thanks, the morning was well advanced. Giuseppe was typically charming to Vivien. He told her she would be very welcome if she chose to return. Graham and I were trying not to look at our watches, as we wished to reach Monopoli in time for lunch.
A RELUCTANT RISTORANTE
We followed the coast road to Capitolo, then turned off for L’Assunta, to take us into Monopoli. We stopped right there in L’Assunta when we saw a nice-looking fish restaurant still open. We checked the menu outside to make sure that Graham could get an alternative option.
There was a pleasant, shaded table overlooking an inlet where surf dashed against the rocks. We had passed their impressive display of fresh fish and seafood, but it was evident that the waiter was not willing to serve us anything but pasta or salad.
SERVICE IN RESORTS OFTEN DIFFERENT
(A resort, again – you can find this attitude in resorts the world over.) They assess you by their past experience of your countrymen en masse, who might not have displayed their best manners. We have often felt ashamed witnessing the behaviour of many Brits abroad.
After a time they brought the drinks we had ordered, contenting ourselves with sitting at the empty table and staring at the surf dashing against the rocks just below us.
Eventually we discussed going elsewhere, but because of our time limit we decided to stay put. When our meals were plonked down before us they looked less than tempting. We put all this down to being end-of-season fatigue, although the place was almost empty.
A LETDOWN – VIVIEN’S LAST MEAL IN ITALY
A pity; their fish display near the entrance was ‘awesome’, as our American friends are so fond of saying. But in any case we had to press on to see the sights of Monopoli and Martina Franca. Most Trip Advisor revues of this restaurant are very good. La Gran Pavese Ristorante, 15 Contrada Capitolo, L’Assunta.
MONOPOLI
MONOPOLI’S ROMAN SEA WALL – STILL INTACT
We made for the harbour when we reached Monopoli. At first glance you find yourself in an ultra-modern resort. We walked along a broad avenue of gleaming cream stone. It was squeaky clean and new looking. Cream marble benches were placed at intervals. They matched the wide pavement stretching along by the sea.
DIVERS & SWIMMERS
We passed diving rocks close by in the sea. There seems always at least one cluster of happy young people pushing each other off. Their laughter carries across the water. We also admired a gaggle of brightly painted little boats.
STILL INTACT – ROMAN SEA WALL
Other holiday makers were enjoying the powdery, almost white sands of the beach. It led your eye to the other side of the harbour and that amazingly intact, very high Roman sea wall – still doing its job after two thousand years!
MONOPOLI’S CITTA ANTICA – GLORIOUS DUOMO
We had been very smitten with the small city on that previous visit. This time we ventured further. The Citta Antica still has signs of Arab occupation. We found it both beautiful and very interesting. At intervals, arches in the sea wall offered nice views of the very blue sea and the nautical traffic upon it.
STREETS GLEAM CREAM AND WHITE – DESPITE MOTORBIKES
The graceful buildings were all in the main of that cream stone, although we found whole little streets where the houses were white. There were few pavements (sidewalks), but the streets were paved in the same diamond-shaped marble tiles we had seen in Bari. It was a wonder how they stood up to the constant traffic of motorcycles that whizzed past us as we walked. (Ever since the Vespa craze of “La Dolce Vita” it seems Italians are in love with their motorbikes, especially the young. They see no need to slow down, even when passing ‘il touristi’ under the narrow arches, which lead to so many streets in their cities.)
BEAUTIFUL CATHEDRAL
When we went into the Duomo of Santa Maria della Madia we were stopped in our tracks. Who would not be impressed that every pillar and high arch – every surface, it seemed, was covered in intricate designs of inlaid marble of many colours? One prettily windowed dome was a poem of blue and white and gold – with real gilding enhancing the religious paintings that edged it. The church had been built in the 12thc, but had been ‘upgraded’ in the eighteenth. This accounted for the baroque exterior, and the intricate decoration inside.
Dazzled, we tore ourselves away. We turned into a narrow little street that had one of those wide windows in the city wall that gave onto yet another view of the harbour. Time was passing; we located our car park close nearby.
WE JUST ESCAPE THE STORM
We piled in just in time to escape the approaching storm that looked to engulf Monopoli, and joined the direct, fast road to Martina Franca.
MARTINA FRANCA
For some reason Graham and I had not on our previous stay in the area bothered to visit this much – admired town so close to Cisternino. Now we were to be grateful for our second chance.
We were well rewarded. We drove first as high as we could, to the Citta Antica. After parking, we found a vantage point with great views of the surrounding countryside. It was generously dotted with those unique trulli.
INTRIGUING STREETS AND ALLEYS
It was a pity; the sky was heavy with threatening cloud, which cast rather a veil over the scene. Through elegant, carved arches we walked past substantial, well-designed Italian versions of Georgian-type buildings and shops. Then we found narrow, winding streets of little white houses. Many had steps up the side bearing pots of geraniums. Nearly all had arches from which hung swathes of greenery; sometimes gaudy bougainvillaea.
Clearly, the residents of the old town missed having gardens. They made up for this lack with pots and window boxes filled with brilliant colour wherever they could be placed.
Eventually we found ourselves faced by an extra high, classically carved arch. It led into a most impressive, architecturally grand central piazza. The Piazza Maria Immacolata held statues. A curved colonnade of magnificent arches stretched all around. It supported grand stone buildings.
MARTINA FRANCA – CLASSICAL GRANDEUR
There were parterres of greenery at regular intervals. They gave a cool relief from the sun now glaring on the white paving beneath our feet. Squashed in, behind the identical arch on the other side, was a tall, fairly simple Duomo – almost white, with some baroque ornament.
It was approached by steps. It was, indeed, the major cathedral, dedicated to San Martino.
NO ENTRY TO THIS CATHEDRAL
When Vivien climbed up and tried the door she found it closed. We had to content ourselves with ‘looking inside’ using Google images when we returned home.
Graham and I decided that we must go back to Martina Franca (hopefully in the not-too-distant future) to explore more of this beautiful, fascinating town.
TRAVELLER IN A HURRY
We could have seen more, but Vivien was anxious to get to the airport in Brindisi. She’d have a wait of around three hours if the journey was uneventful, and we were not held up by a crash further on, or accosted by bandits, or kidnapped! Graham and I had to accept that the world is divided on this one. There are some people who just like to guard against every eventuality that chance might throw at them to make them miss their bus, train or ‘plane home. Our friend urged us not to wait with her at the airport. She said she’d be quite happy reading her book until called for her flight.
We rather guiltily said goodbye and slunk off to enjoy the rest of the afternoon and our return to fondly remembered Casalini.
CASALINI.
HELLO AGAIN FRANCESCA
We drove back to take advantage of Francesca’s very kind invitation. After all our constant sightseeing we felt ready to draw breath for a day or two.
We stayed in the same little trullo as in 2012. Next day we re-explored the area we had loved so much five years before. Sadly, Jean-Vito was still not back in his smart little mini-mart, so we had to forgo the pleasure of renewing our friendship.
TO OUR SHAME WE FALL FOR A TOURIST-TRAP
Then we drove the few miles to Cisternino. We two remembered it well as an honest, working country town. Now we found it much smarter and more ‘touristy’ than when it was our base for a week in 2012. We tried a new Macelleria Restaurant. These are where you choose the meat from the butcher’s array, and they cook it for you in a full meal. We should have gone back to the old-established one Francesca had recommended before. Now we felt ripped off.
WE FIND AN EXCEPTION
However, there was one new tourist place we really enjoyed, as much for the friendly chat in English as for the excellent coffee and little cakes. It is a tiny café in the corner of the miniscule ‘park’ which contains the war memorial, and overlooks miles and miles of land, right to the sea…
LOCOROTONDO
After two nights Graham and I said our fond farewells. At Francesca’s urging we took a country route back through Locorotondo. When we had visited in 2012, it had a great street market stretching all the way down the considerable main thoroughfare. I had bought a heavy, silver-set white stone drop from an African stallholder.
ANOTHER GREAT CHANGE – BUT ANCIENT CHURCH INTACT
Today that street was empty, but we noticed many smart new shops.
We went up to the top and found a pretty church with a baroque façade. A board outside gave details in English. This was the Chiesa Madre San Giorgio. When we went inside we discovered that the building was actually very, very much older. It was simpler than the Duomo in Monopoli – but still extremely beautiful. It held some wonderful art treasures. A striking bas-relief in a pale wood depicted the disciples falling asleep in the Garden of Gethsemane. Then Graham spotted some wonderful, very old – looking woodcarvings incorporated into the base of the simple modern altar table. In a side chapel he found a very striking modern sculpture in bronze. He guessed it depicts the raising of Lazarus . There were quite a few visitors like us in that church. So we had to conclude:
Puglia – Apulia is ON THE MAP now!
Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.
