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February 19, 2021

ORLEANS

Jackie Usher French Churches, Tourist Town

5^th-8^th May

ORLEANS IS ALL ABOUT ST JOAN!

We left Ver-le-Chartres in the morning, intent on re-visiting Joan of Arc’s city of Orleans, where she led the French army to finally rout the English invaders. The city has so many relics of her, including the house she made her headquarters when she was riding high. This 17-year old peasant girl had led the French army to defeat the English, and saw the crown placed on the head of the Dauphin in Rheims, where on a previous holiday Graham snapped one of her most delightful statues. (click here to see that blog)

Orleans - Where Joan of Arc stayed — Where Joan of Arc stayed

ORLEANS – SAINT JOAN OF ARC’S HOUSE.

ON A PREVIOUS HOLIDAY…

We had already spent one morning in Orleans in 2015, where we had concentrated on the beautiful Cathedral. (Click here to see that Blog) (Because the sun was behind it when Graham took the photograph above, you can not appreciate the striking whiteness of its stone.) Also, we had visited the Place de Martyrs with its large and impressive statue of Joan, sword in hand, astride her horse.

MORE PLACES TO SEE

Now we were anxious to see the medieval old centre.

This time we walked different streets, and presently came upon a very old half-timbered house. The plaque on the door announced its importance:

‘Maison de Jeanne d’Arc’

ORLEANS – SURELY ST JEANNE D’ARC’S HOUSE DESERVES FRESH FLOWERS?

We had found the house that Joan had made her headquarters. The frontage was decorated lavishly with troughs of plastic flowers. Surely Orleans is an important enough city to have afforded to grow a few fresh ones… Anyway, here I am, standing outside.

ORLEANS – THE MEDIEVAL STREETS

There were several medieval streets, but somehow they looked over-restored, and every ground floor had been taken over and altered for shops and cafes, etc.

Orleans - Shopping area free of traffic — Shopping area free of traffic

ORLEANS – WHO VISITS THE LAND OF GOURMETS TO DEMAND FISH’N’CHIPS?

One place actually had a sign in English boasting ‘Fish and Chips and Chicken and Chips’. It made me curl in shame for any of my compatriots who would need such rubbish in France; famous the world over for its gastronomy.

ORLEANS – CLEARING MY PATH:

As I scooted along I found an animated group of people chatting all across the pavement–cum-road. All noticed me except one voluble chap. Nobody could grab his attention so I shouted ‘Beep-beep’ to the amusement of all his friends. It shifted him.

ORLEANS – PHOTOGRAPHING THE CATHEDRAL

Then we sought out the cathedral so that Graham could use his new camera to take better pictures. By this time we decided we had seen enough of Orleans for that day – Graham had done a lot of walking, and I was tired.

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

October 16, 2020

ROUEN CATHEDRAL IS MAGNIFICENT

Jackie Usher French Churches, French Cities, Restaurants shopping, UNESCO World Heritage Site

3^rd May 2018:

ROUEN CATHEDRAL IS MAGNIFICENT

Rouen cathedral is world famous. Everyone who passes through Rouen makes sure to at least see its very elaborate frontage, painted so many times by the well-known and loved Impressionist Claude Monet. We decided that such a World Heritage sight deserves not just a post all to itself – but the First Mention in Rouen…

ROUEN CATHEDRAL DESERVES FIRST MENTION:

The details of our stay in Rouen, like our hotel and other discoveries, are described in the post following. So I have jumped forward to our first port of call on our first morning in this celebrated historical city.

Rouen - Truly awe-inspiring Arches — Truly awe-inspiring Arches

MAGNIFICENT ROUEN CATHEDRAL – PHOTO-SHOTS

After Graham had taken numerous photos of the well-known Cathedral frontage, he turned his attention to buildings in the immediate area.

Sadly, the very lovely old apothecary’s building (now the Tourist Information Centre) did not make a good photograph at all – its best features did not show up when we finally had a good look back home.

MAGNIFICENT ROUEN CATHEDRAL’S VAST INTERIOR

To my secret relief, we finally entered through a side door into the echoing cathedral. So long and high are the aisles, that one is almost overwhelmed by the plethora of soaring arches – impossibly high. Craning my neck, I could see that each supported a vaulted roof, and collectively they fronted many a side-chapel.

What really impressed me were the lines of saints along some of the walls (see Feature Photo). They were all rescued from the exterior (probably the so-elaborate front entrance, which is impossible to take in all at once). Some were very worn indeed, while others were easily recognisable – certainly by Catholics, whom I imagine will know their canon of saints quite well by the symbols they carry.

ROUEN CATHEDRAL RETAINS MUCH OLD STAINED GLASS

Rouen - One of the Many Stained Glass Windows — One of the Many Stained Glass Windows

There were a few very old stained glass windows, and one lovely Rose Window. What impressed us both were the high, mainly blue windows of great intricacy that formed a semi-circle behind the freestanding altar at the far end from the main door.

Rouen - Stone Staircase — Stone Staircase

WE FIND ROUEN CATHEDRAL’S ‘WOW’ FEATURE:

But even they were superseded when, moving to leave by the front entrance, we glanced down a side aisle towards the reredos and both let out an ‘Ooohhh’. We simultaneously spotted a most delicate small stairway of stone lace. It seems almost unique in its intricacy, and pretty coloured stone. Graham took many photographs of this early masterpiece.

Rouen - The Cathedral Tower — The Cathedral Tower

Text by – Jackie Usher, SWWJ. (aka author Debbie Darkin, & ‘Graham Liverpool’ on Trip Advisor.)
Photographs by – Graham Usher.

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